Different stratum corneum lipid liposomes as models to evaluate the effect of the sodium dodecyl sulfate

Effect of Penetration Enhancer on the Structure of Stratum Corneum: On-Site Study by Confocal Polarized Raman Imaging

Keratin and lipid structures in the stratum corneum (SC) are closely related to the SC barrier function. The application of penetration enhancers (PEs) disrupts the structure of SC, thereby promoting infiltration. To quantify these PE-induced structural changes in SC, we used confocal Raman imaging (CRI) and polarized Raman imaging (PRI) to explore the integrity and continuity of keratin and lipid structures in SC. The results showed that water is the safest PE and that oleic acid (OA), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and low molecular weight protamine (LMWP) disrupted the ordered structure of keratin, while azone and liposomes had less of an effect on keratin. Azone, OA, and SDS also led to significant changes in lipid structure, while LMWP and liposomes had less of an effect. Establishing this non-invasive and efficient strategy will provide new insights into transdermal drug delivery and skin health management.

Self-assembled organogelators as artificial stratum corneum models: Key-role parameters for skin permeation prediction

Self-assembled organogelators were explored as artificial stratum corneum (SC) models for the in vitro skin permeation assessment. Four SC models consisting of binary (organogels) or ternary (microemulsion-based organogels) mixtures were developed using stearic acid, tristearin, or sorbitan tristearate, at two different concentrations, gelled in squalene. The permeation of lipophilic butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane and hydrophilic methylene blue as the permeant compounds across the SC models was compared with ex vivo experiments using excised porcine ear skin. A multi-analytical approach was adopted to provide detailed understanding about organogelator organization within the SC models and find possible parameters playing key-roles in SC permeation prediction. The SC models were investigated for gelling properties and microstructure. Parameters such as gel occurrence, organogelator concentration, and rheological properties appeared as negligible conditions for skin permeation prediction. Conversely, arrangement packing, interactions, and crystallinity extent of the self-assembled organogelator were found to play a fundamental role in the simulation of SC barrier function according to the permeant feature.

All-or-none membrane permeabilization by fengycin-type lipopeptides from Bacillus subtilis QST713

The fungicidal activity of Bacillus subtilis QST713 has been utilized for the highly effective and environmentally safe protection of crops against a variety of pathogens. It is based mainly on the production of cyclic lipopeptides of the fengycin (FEs), surfactin, and iturin families. The mixed population of native FEs forms micelles which solubilize individual FEs such as agrastatin 1 (AS1) that are otherwise rather insoluble on their own. Fluorescence lifetime-based calcein efflux measurements and cryo transmission electron microscopy show that these FEs show a unique scenario of membrane permeabilization. Poor miscibility of FEs with lipid probably promotes the formation of pores in 10% of the vesicles at only≈1μM free FE and in 15% of the vesicles at 10 μM. We explain why this limited, all-or-none leakage could nevertheless account for the killing of virtually all fungi whereas the same extent of graded vesicle leakage may be biologically irrelevant. Then, crystallization of AS1 and micellization of plipastatins cause a cut-off in leakage at 15% that might regulate the biological activity of FEs, protecting Bacillus and plant membranes. The fact that FE micelles solubilize only about 10 mol-% fluid lipid resembles the behavior of detergent resistance.

Damage/recovery by additive on lipid membrane as a mimicry of human stratum corneum

The effects of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) on the model lipid membrane of human stratum corneum, composed of three main lipids of ceramide III, palmitic acid, and cholesterol, have been examined as a function of exposure period. Cholesterol first got to elute, palmitic acid followed it late, and the remaining solid was mainly ceramide III. The removal of lipids influenced the configurational structure of remaining lipid and the intralayer structure of lamellae. Monitoring of structural reorganization in the damaged membrane was carried out on the recovering procedure of palmitic acid and cholesterol. Both lipids were penetrated in the damaged membrane and recovered mostly the configurational lipid structure and the lamellar structure. Especially, it can be noted that cholesterol is more effective than palmitic acid on recovery.

Interactions of surfactants with lipid membranes

Surfactants are surface-active, amphiphilic compounds that are water-soluble in the micro- to millimolar range, and self-assemble to form micelles or other aggregates above a critical concentration. This definition comprises synthetic detergents as well as amphiphilic peptides and lipopeptides, bile salts and many other compounds. This paper reviews the biophysics of the interactions of surfactants with membranes of insoluble, naturally occurring lipids. It discusses structural, thermodynamic and kinetic aspects of membrane-water partitioning, changes in membrane properties induced by surfactants, membrane solubilisation to micelles and other phases formed by lipid-surfactant systems. Each section defines and derives key parameters, mentions experimental methods for their measurement and compiles and discusses published data. Additionally, a brief overview is given of surfactant-like effects in biological systems, technical applications of surfactants that involve membrane interactions, and surfactant-based protocols to study biological membranes.

New arrangement of proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum cornified envelope

A new arrangement of proteins and lipids of stratum corneum (SC) cornified envelope (CE) is proposed. The chemical analysis of CE revealed the presence of free fatty acids (FFA), ceramides (Cer), and important percentages of glutamic acid/glutamine (Glx) and serine (Ser) residues. The molecular structure of these components suggests the existence of covalent links not only between Cer and Glx but also between FFA and Ser. The protein distribution of extracellular surface of CE, i.e., the proteins that could be involved in the bonds with lipids, was studied using post- and pre-embedding immunolabeling electron microscopy. Some loricrin (protein rich in Ser) was detected in the outermost part of the CE protein layer. The external arrangement of some domains of this protein may give rise to form linkages with FFA, yielding further insight into the CE arrangement in which Cer-Glx bonds and FFA-Ser bonds would be involved. Although the importance of fatty acids in the cohesion and barrier function of SC has been widely demonstrated, their role could be associated not only to the presence of these lipids in the intercellular lamellae but also in the CE, in the same way that Cer.

How do dermatological vehicles influence the horny layer?

Emulsifying agents in aqueous solution lead to dehydration of the horny layer of the epidermis and damage to the barrier. This is only partly true if emulsifying agents are constituents of emulsions. Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions cause an improvement in the hydration of the horny layer and barrier function. In the case of an additional effect of wash solutions, a partial or complete abolition of the drying out and barrier-damaging effect of the wash solution results. Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions without glycerol have no effect on the moisture of the horny layer or indeed increase it, but they lead to considerable damage to the barrier and irritation. In wash tests, they do not induce any protective effect. With micro-emulsions this is still more the case and, moreover, they can also lead to exsiccation. As a result of the addition of glycerol, the barrier-damaging effect can be abolished. Also in stress tests with wash solutions, the damage to the horny layer is reduced by glycerol-containing O/W emulsions. Whereas the penetration-promoting effect of O/W emulsions without glycerol is best, only W/O emulsions or glycerol-containing O/W emulsions are suitable for atopic dermatitis. A hydrating effect on the stratum corneum was also found in a propylene glycol ointment.

Cleansing, dehydrating, barrier-damaging and irritating hyperaemising effect of four detergent brands: comparative studies using standardised washing models

BACKGROUND AND PROBLEM: It is well known that the damaging effect of surfactants on the stratum corneum varies according to the surfactant used. The present investigations aim to compare four standard commercial cleansing solutions (Esemptan Cleansing Lotion, Stephalen Shower Gel, Manipur Antimicrobial Cleansing Solution and Tork Mevon 55 Liquid Soap) with respect to their cleansing and skin barrier-damaging effects.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The cleansing effect of the solutions was determined in relation to their concentrations in a first experimental series involving 15 subjects using a standardised test method. The product concentrations with the most divergent cleansing effects were tested for their dehydrating (corneometry), epidermal barrier-damaging (TEWL) and irritating effects (laser Doppler) in a standardised washing test. In a second experimental series, the concentration used for the cleansing solutions was based on the quantity of cleansing solution obtained from dispenser actuations (six actuations/L). These concentrations were used to test the cleansing and damaging effect on the stratum corneum using the same methods as in the first experimental series.

RESULTS

There were no significant differences in the first experimental series. In the second experimental series, Stephalen Shower Gel showed disadvantages in terms of a small cleansing effect, but without evidence of a smaller stratum corneum-damaging effect, and Tork Mevon 55 Liquid Soap showed advantages in terms of a smaller stratum corneum-damaging effect, but without evidence of a smaller cleansing effect.

CONCLUSIONS

These studies showed that the relationship between the cleansing and the damaging effect on the stratum corneum can be properly assessed only by testing different concentrations. Furthermore, this experimental approach allowed to differentiate the four tested cleansing solutions.

Influence of the temperature in the adsorption of sodium dodecyl sulfate on phosphatidylcholine liposomes

The influence of the temperature on the adsorption of monomeric and micellar solutions of the anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) on phosphatidylcholine (PC) liposomes was investigated using the fluorescent probe 2-(p-toluidinyl)-naphthalene-6-sodium sulfonate (TNS). The number of adsorbed molecules was quantified by measuring changes in the electrostatic potential (Psi(o)) of the liposomes/probe during an incubation with SDS at varying temperatures. At low surfactant concentrations (from 0.05 to 0.25 mM), the increase in temperature reduced the number of surfactant molecules incorporated per vesicle regardless of the incubation time, whereas at high surfactant concentrations (from 0.50 to 1.0 mM) the incubation time has an opposite effect on this process. Thus, after 10s, the surfactant adsorption decreased with temperature, yet it increased progressively with time. The adsorption was linear with temperature below critical micellar concentration (CMC) of SDS and this linear tendency did not change above CMC. This suggests an adsorption of SDS monomers regardless of the surfactant concentration.

[Effects of emulsions on the stratum corneum barrier and hydration]

The appearance of the skin depends greatly on the hydration of the stratum corneum which is regulated by water binding substances of the corneocytes and also by the quality of the stratum corneum lipids. Furthermore these lipids are responsible for the barrier function. In patients with atopic dermatitis, the water binding capacity and the barrier function of the stratum corneum are reduced even in clinically healthy skin areas. Emollients can damage the stratum corneum and lead to desiccation and a disturbance of the barrier. This effect is a result of an increased permeability of the barrier lipids and direct damage to the keratinocytes and corneocytes. The degree of damage of the barrier caused by emollients in dermatological vehicles has not been sufficiently investigated. As suggested by hypothetical considerations, such an effect is not expected and cannot be demonstrated in water-in-oil-emulsions. Oil-in-water-emulsions without glycerol as well as lipophilic and hydrophilic microemulsions do damage the barrier function. Both types of microemulsions additionally lead to a dehydration of the stratum corneum. The damaging effect of oil-in-water-emulsions can be reduced by the addition of glycerol and urea.