Is the α–β transition of keratin a transition of α-helices to β-pleated sheets. II. Synchrotron investigation for stretched single specimens

Recent Progress in Hair Science and Trichology

Hair is important to our appearance as well as to protect our heads. Human hair mainly consists of proteins (80-85%), melanin pigments (0-5%), water (10-13%), and lipids (1-6%). The physicochemical properties of hair have been studied for over 100 years. However, they are not yet thoroughly understood. In this review, recent progress and the latest findings are summarized from the following three perspectives: structural characteristics, delivery and distribution of active ingredients, and hair as a template. The structural characteristics of hair have been mainly investigated by microscopic and/or spectroscopic techniques such as atomic force microscopy integrated with infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR) and rheological measurements. The distribution of active ingredients has been generally evaluated through techniques such as nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry (NanoSIMS). And finally, attempts to explore the potential of hair to be used as a substrate for flexible device fabrication will be introduced.

Chemically characterizing the cortical cell nano-structure of human hair using atomic force microscopy integrated with infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR)

OBJECTIVE

The use of conventional microscopy and vibrational spectroscopy in the optical region to investigate the chemical nature of hair fibres on a nanometre scale is frustrated by the diffraction limit of light, prohibiting the spectral elucidation of nanoscale sub-structures that contribute to the bulk properties of hair. The aim of this work was to overcome this limitation and gain unprecedented chemical resolution of cortical cell nano-structure of hair.

METHODS

The hybrid technique of AFM-IR, combining atomic force microscopy with an IR laser, circumvents the diffraction limit of light and achieves nanoscale chemical resolution down to the AFM tip radius. In this work, AFM-IR was employed on ultra-thin microtomed cross-sections of human hair fibres to spectrally distinguish and characterize the specific protein structures and environments within the nanoscale components of cortical cells.

RESULTS

At first, a topographical and chemical distinction between the macrofibrils and the surrounding intermacrofibillar matrix was achieved based on 2.5 × 2.5 μm maps of cortical cell cross-sections. It was found that the intermacrofibrillar matrix has a large protein content and specific cysteine-related residues, whereas the macrofibrils showed bigger contributions from aliphatic amino acid residues and acidic-/ester-containing species (e.g. lipids). Localized spectra recorded at a spatial resolution of the order of the AFM tip radius enabled the chemical composition of each region to be determined following deconvolution of the Amide-I and Amide-II bands. This provided specific evidence for a greater proportion of α-helices in the macrofibrils and correspondingly larger contributions of β-sheet secondary structures in the intermacrofibrillar matrix, as inferred in earlier studies. Analysis of the parallel and antiparallel β-sheet structures, and of selected dominant amino acid residues, yielded further novel composition and conformation results for both regions.

CONCLUSION

In this work, we overcome the diffraction limit of light using atomic force microscopy integrated with IR laser spectroscopy (AFM-IR) to characterize sub-micron features of the hair cortex at ultra-high spatial resolution. The resulting spectral analysis shows clear distinctions in the Amide bands in the macrofibrils and surrounding intermacrofibrillar matrix, yielding novel insight into the molecular structure and intermolecular stabilization interactions of the constituent proteins within each cortical component.

Engineering with keratin: A functional material and a source of bioinspiration

Keratin is a highly multifunctional biopolymer serving various roles in nature due to its diverse material properties, wide spectrum of structural designs, and impressive performance. Keratin-based materials are mechanically robust, thermally insulating, lightweight, capable of undergoing reversible adhesion through van der Waals forces, and exhibit structural coloration and hydrophobic surfaces. Thus, they have become templates for bioinspired designs and have even been applied as a functional material for biomedical applications and environmentally sustainable fiber-reinforced composites. This review aims to highlight keratin's remarkable capabilities as a biological component, a source of design inspiration, and an engineering material. We conclude with future directions for the exploration of keratinous materials.

Eucalyptus ash alters secondary protein conformation of human grey hair and facilitates anthocyanin dyeing

Wood ashes infused with water have been traditionally used as hair cosmetics, but little or no research has examined the effects of ash on human hair. This study investigated the effect of eucalyptus ash on the structure and morphology of excised human grey hair and its potential use as a pretreatment in natural hair dyeing using anthocyanins extracted from purple cops of Zea mays. Tensile characteristics and surface morphology of ash-pretreated hair was monitored by texture analysis, scanning electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy. The biochemical characteristics of ash-treated hair were analyzed by synchrotron radiation-FTIR and sulfur K-edge X-ray absorption near edge. Dyeing with anthocyanins was analyzed by Lab color scale and adsorption of anthocyanins. Ash-treated hair was elastically and plastically deformed with microscopic alterations to the ridges of the cuticle cells, similar to ammonia-treated hair. The ash extract significantly changed the relative proportion of alpha-helices in the cuticle and cortex layers (p < 0.05), but did not affect the interaction of S-bonds with neighboring atoms (p > 0.05). Ash-treated hair showed significantly enhanced adsorption of anthocyanins (p < 0.05) which changed the color of the grey hair. The alteration of secondary proteins in the cuticle and cortex layers of the grey hair by ash extract pre-treatment, enhanced anthocyanin adsorption. The eucalyptus ash could potentially be useful as a natural hair dyeing pre-treatment.

Structure and mechanical properties of selected biological materials

Mineralized biological tissues offer insight into how nature has evolved these components to optimize multifunctional purposes. These mineral constituents are weak by themselves, but interact with the organic matrix to produce materials with unexpected mechanical properties. The hierarchical structure of these materials is at the crux of this enhancement. Microstructural features such as organized, layered organic/inorganic structures and the presence of porous and fibrous elements are common in many biological components. The organic and inorganic portions interact at the molecular and micro-levels synergistically to enhance the mechanical function. In this paper, we report on recent progress on studies of the abalone and Araguaia river clam shells, arthropod exoskeletons, antlers, tusks, teeth and bird beaks.

Temperature-dependent dielectric properties of slightly hydrated horn keratin

With an aim to reveal the mechanism of protein-water interaction in a predominantly two phase model protein system this study investigates the frequency and temperature dependence of dielectric constant epsilon' and loss factor epsilon'' in cow horn keratin in the frequency range 30 Hz to 3 MHz and temperature range 30-200 degrees C at two levels of hydration. These two levels of hydration were achieved by exposing the sample to air at 50% relative humidity (RH) at ambient temperature and by evacuating the sample for 72 h at 105 degrees C. A low frequency dispersion (LFD) and an intermediate frequency alpha-dispersion were the two main dielectric responses observed in the air-dried sample. The LFD and the high frequency arm of the alpha-dispersion followed the same fractional power law of frequency. Within the framework of percolation cluster model these dispersions, respectively have been attributed to percolation of protons between and within the clusters of hydrogen-bonded water molecules bound to polar or ionizable protein components. The alpha-dispersion peak, which results from intra-cluster charge percolation conformed to Cole-Cole modified Debye equation. Temperature dependence of the dielectric constant in the air-dried sample exhibited peaks at 120 and 155 degrees C which have been identified as temperatures of onset of release of water bound to polar protein components in the amorphous and crystalline regions, respectively. An overall rise in the permittivity was observed above 175 degrees C, which has been identified as the onset of chain melting in the crystalline region of the protein.

Unzipping the cuticle of the human hair shaft to obtain micron/nano keratin filaments

An attempt has been made to obtain intact individual keratin filaments of various levels from micron cortical, micron macrofibril to nano intermediate filament and polypeptide alpha-helix from the human hair shaft. The feasibility of this initiative has been largely demonstrated by finding that there is a longitudinal seam/zipper on the cuticle of the human hair shaft, which can be unzipped by certain solvents such as performic acid and urea, allowing one to use an anatomical approach to separate intact individual micron/nano filaments. Micron cortical and macrofibril filaments have been obtained. It is also found that the cortical filaments are twisted together to form a yarn, giving rise to the strength for the hair shaft; and that individual cortical filaments are often 2-2 paired in a similar structure to the double helix.

New aspects of the alpha-helix to beta-sheet transition in stretched hard alpha-keratin fibers

The putative transformation of alpha-helices into beta-sheets has been studied for more than 50 years in the case of hard alpha-keratin. In a previous study of stretched keratin fibers, we specified the conditions for beta-sheet appearance within horsehair: the formation of beta-sheets requires at least 30% relative humidity. However, this phenomenon was observed in the whole tissue. Then there was no clear chemical identification of the beta-sheets (keratin or matrix proteins) and the exact location of the beta-sheets across the fiber could not be specified. In this study, using wide-angle x-ray scattering and high spatial resolution infrared microspectroscopy, we could determine and characterize the structural elements across hair sections stretched in water, which provides new information about the aforementioned transition. Our results show that the process can be split into three steps: 1), unraveling of the alpha-helical coiled-coil domains, which starts at roughly 5% macroscopic strain; 2), further transformation of the unraveled coiled-coils into beta-sheet structures, which occurs above roughly 20% macroscopic strain; and 3), spatial expanding of the beta-structured zones from the sample center to its periphery.