The effects of an alpha hydroxy acid (glycolic acid) on hairless guinea pig skin permeability

Enhancement of exfoliating efficacy of L-carnitine with ion-pair method monitored by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy

Carnitine (CAR), an amino acid derivative, has great potential as a facial exfoliating agent owing to its calcium chelating property under weakly acidic or neutral conditions. However, its application is limited by its poor transdermal penetration. To optimise its exfoliation efficacy with minimal concentration, we propose the ion-pair method. The ionic interaction between CAR and a zwitterionic substance was successfully monitored by measuring conductivity. The alterations of penetration and exfoliation efficacy for CAR addition to different types of counter ions were investigated in vitro and in vivo. We found that hydrogenated soya phosphatidylcholine (HSC), an amphiphilic counter ion, significantly increases the stratum corneum penetration and exfoliation efficacy of CAR. The changes of the CAR-HSC ionic interaction in the presence of calcium ions were also investigated by ¹H nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. The NMR spectra for amino groups of CAR first decreased with HSC and then gradually recovered and shifted as calcium ions were added. From the results, a noble exfoliating complex of CAR with high exfoliation efficacy could be proposed. Moreover, the results demonstrate that NMR spectroscopy is useful to obtain direct experimental evidence of the molecular dynamics simulations of the alteration of an exfoliating complex as it penetrates.

Impact of Cosmetic Lotions on Nanoparticle Penetration through ex vivo C57BL/6 Hairless Mouse and Human Skin: A Comparison Study

Understanding the interactions of nanoparticles (NPs) with skin is important from a consumer and occupational health and safety perspective, as well as for the design of effective NP-based transdermal therapeutics. Despite intense efforts to elucidate the conditions that permit NP penetration, there remains a lack of translatable results from animal models to human skin. The objectives of this study are to investigate the impact of common skin lotions on NP penetration and to quantify penetration differences of quantum dot (QD) NPs between freshly excised human and mouse skin. QDs were mixed in 7 different vehicles, including 5 commercial skin lotions. These were topically applied to skin using two exposure methods; a petri dish protocol and a Franz diffusion cell protocol. QD presence in the skin was quantified using Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy. Results show that the commercial vehicles can significantly impact QD penetration in both mouse and human skin. Lotions that contain alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) facilitated NP penetration. Lower QD signal was observed in skin studied using a Franz cell. Freshly excised human skin was also studied immediately after the sub-cutaneous fat removal process, then after 24 hours rest ex vivo. Resting human skin 24 hours prior to QD exposure significantly reduced epidermal presence. This study exemplifies how application vehicles, skin processing and the exposure protocol can affect QD penetration results and the conclusions that maybe drawn between skin models.

In vitro skin penetration of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from a cosmetic formulation

There is a concern that peptides in cosmetic creams marketed as anti-aging/anti-wrinkle may penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and potentially stimulate biological activity. Claims for one cosmetic peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Ac-EEMQRR-amide), suggest interference with neuromuscular signaling as its anti-wrinkle mechanism of action. Therefore, the skin penetration of commercially available Ac-EEMQRR-amide from a cosmetic formulation (oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion) was determined in hairless guinea pig (HGP) and human cadaver skin assembled into in vitro diffusion cells. An O/W emulsion containing 10% Ac-EEMQRR-amide was applied to skin at a dose of 2 mg/cm(2). After a 24-h exposure, the skin surface was washed to remove unabsorbed peptide. Skin disks were tape stripped to determine the amount of peptide in the stratum corneum. Removal of the stratum corneum layers was verified by confocal microscopy. The epidermis was heat separated from the dermis and each skin fraction was homogenized. Skin penetration of Ac-EEMQRR-amide was measured in skin layers by hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry using electrospray ionization (ESI) in the positive mode. Stable isotopically labeled hexapeptides were used as internal standards for the quantitation of native hexapeptides to correct for matrix effects associated with ESI. The results (percent of applied dose) showed that the majority of the Ac-EEMQRR-amide was washed from the surface of both HGP and human skin. Ac-EEMQRR-amide that penetrated skin remained mostly in the stratum corneum of HGP (0.54%) and human (0.22%) with the peptide levels decreasing as each layer was removed by tape stripping. Total Ac-EEMQRR-amide found in the epidermis of HGP and human skin was similar at 0.01%. No peptide was detected in the dermis or buffer collected underneath the skin for both human and HGP. There was no hexapeptide metabolite (H2N-EEMQRR-amide) detected in any layers of HGP skin, human skin or buffer collected underneath the skin. This skin penetration data will be useful for evaluating the safety of cosmetic products containing small peptide cosmetic ingredients.

Effect of chemical peeling on the skin in relation to UV irradiation

Chemical peeling is one of the dermatological treatments available for certain cutaneous diseases and conditions or improvement of cosmetic appearance of photoaged skin. However, it needs to be clarified whether the repetitive procedure of chemical peeling on photodamaged skin is safe and whether the different chemicals used for peeling results in similar outcomes or not. In this article, we reviewed the effect of peeling or peeling agents on the skin in relation to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The pretreatment of peeling agents usually enhance UV sensitivity by inducing increased sunburn cell formation, lowering minimum erythematous dose and increasing cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers. However, this sensitivity is reversible and recovers to normal after 1-week discontinuation. Using animals, the chronic effect of peeling and peeling agents was shown to prevent photocarcinogenesis. There is also an in vitro study using culture cells to know the detailed mechanisms of peeling agents, especially on cell proliferation and apoptotic changes via activating signalling cascades and oxidative stress. It is important to understand the effect of peeling agents on photoaged skin and to know how to deal with UV irradiation during the application of peeling agents and treatment of chemical peeling in daily life.

Clinical study of transcutaneous vaccination using a hydrogel patch for tetanus and diphtheria

Transcutaneous immunization (TCI) is a non-invasive and easy-to-use vaccination method. We demonstrated the efficacy and safety of a transcutaneous vaccine formulation using a hydrogel patch in animal experiments. In the present study, we performed a clinical study to apply our TCI formulation for vaccination against tetanus and diphtheria in human. The TCI device was a hydrogel patch (antigen-free) applied to the left brachial medial skin of 22 healthy volunteers for 48 h. Next, the hydrogel patch, containing 2 mg tetanus toxoid (TT) and 2 mg diphtheria toxoid (DT) as the TCI formulation, was applied to 27 healthy volunteers for 24 h and some volunteers were vaccinated again by TCI formulation. For safety assessment, the patch application site was observed to assess local adverse events, and systemic adverse events were determined by a blood test. The antigen-free hydrogel patch and TCI formulation containing TT and DT did not induce local or systemic severe adverse events. For vaccine efficacy estimation, toxoid-specific serum antibody titers were determined by ELISA and the toxin-neutralizing activity of the induced antibody was evaluated in a passive-challenge experiment. The anti-TT IgG titer and the anti-DT IgG titer increased, and a significant effect was detected by paired t-test. The antibody titers were maintained at higher level than that before vaccination for at least 1 year. Moreover, toxoid-specific antibodies were produced by the second vaccination in some subjects. Antibodies induced by application of the TCI formulation neutralized the toxin and prevented toxic death in mice. In addition, changes in the skin condition due to application of the TCI formulation were observed under in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. The amount of water and patch components in the stratum corneum increased after application of the TCI formulation, suggesting that the change in the skin condition was related to antigen penetration. These data indicate that this easy-to-use TCI system induces an immune response without severe adverse reactions in humans. This easy-to-use and safe TCI formulation enables mass treatment in an outbreak setting and increased vaccination rates in developing countries, and will greatly contribute to worldwide countermeasures against infectious diseases.

In vitro skin diffusion study of pure forskolin versus a forskolin-containing Plectranthus barbatus root extract

An in vitro skin diffusion study of pure forskolin (1) versus a 1-containing Plectranthus barbatus root extract (P. barbatus extract) in hairless guinea pig skin and human skin in a flow-through diffusion cell system was conducted and is being reported for the first time. Both topical agents were formulated in a solution of 70% ethanol and 30% propylene glycol (v/v). The results showed that forskolin can be delivered through the stratum corneum and that the flux of this compound was enhanced when 1 was delivered as a constituent of the P. barbatus extract as compared to an equivalent amount in pure form. These results suggest that the P. barbatus extract used contains permeation enhancement activity from other compound(s) contained in the crude root extract. It is possible that P. barbatus root extract may be used as an economical source of 1 to perform topical chemical manipulation of pigmentation in high-risk populations.

The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C8-lipohydroxy acid

The hydroxy acids are widely used in skin creams because of their exfoliating and rejuvenating effect on photoaged skin. As a member of this family, the salicylic acid derivative known in the literature as 2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid or beta-lipohydroxy acid has also been proposed as an exfoliant and as a treatment of photoaged skin and acne. This article reviews the effects of the hydroxy acids and compares them to those of the salicylic acid derivative. We propose the name C(8)-lipohydroxy acid (C8-LHA) for this derivative to differentiate it from other related compounds. The lipophilic nature of C8-LHA and its relatively slow penetration in the skin afford it an exfoliating effect that is efficient at low concentrations. It appears to have antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticomedogenic properties, which make it effective against acne. Its antifungal and exfoliating properties are also likely to prove useful in combating dandruff.

Some non-equilibrium phenomena in the malic acid/water/Polysorbate 81 system

Topical formulations undergo radical structural changes after application and the action on the skin is not directly related to the original structure of the formulation. This fact has been well established in the scientific literature. However, and more essential, is the fact that these changes in the formulation structure are not equilibrium ones. Especially so, with the hydroxy acids, which are widely used in cosmetic and dermatological treatment of skin. The article reports the first investigation into the non-equilibrium conditions in a hydroxy acid system. Different phases in the title system, which were not in mutual equilibrium, were brought in contact while avoiding convection. The transfer of substance between them was estimated from the changes in volume of each phase. The results showed, unexpectedly, that the systems were far from equilibrium even after prolonged times in contact. The kinetics of the changes varied to significant degree, from extremely slow, when solid phases were involved to fast for liquid phases. In one case was observed a separated layer, which was not found in the phase diagram under equilibrium conditions.

Mixing Glycolic Acid with Retinaldehyde: RALGA, a Technical Achievement

BACKGROUND

The use of retinaldehyde or glycolic acid was found to be effective in topical acne treatments.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was thus to take advantage of the possible synergistic effect between retinaldehyde and glycolic acid and to combine the latter in a single formulation, in other words, in an oil-in-water emulsion.

METHODS

A certain number of critical parameters were taken into account when designing the formulation, i.e. solubility of retinaldehyde and glycolic acid, pH of the finished product and insufficient stability of retinaldehyde notably in the presence of water. Consequently, the oil components, which form the oily phase of the emulsion, were carefully selected according to the solubility of retinaldehyde. Moreover, we aimed at obtaining adequate emulsion stability so that a large amount of water could be used to make the hydroxy acid soluble.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

The best retinaldehyde-glycolic acid (RALGA) formulation developed had a low pH (around 3.5) and, when stored at 40 degrees C, revealed a good stability. Finally, the antibacterial activity of this formulation was also tested in vitro against Propionibacterium acnes and showed antibacterial results after only 5 min of contact.

Pharmacology of RALGA, a Mixture of Retinaldehyde and Glycolic Acid

BACKGROUND

Retinoids and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are major compounds in topical therapy. They exert distinct but potentially complementary activities. However, their association is limited by their respective irritating potential. Recently, the first association between a retinoid and an AHA has been achieved; this formulation (RALGA) associates retinaldehyde (RAL)--a precursor of retinoic acid (RA)--and glycolic acid (GA)--an AHA.

OBJECTIVE

To study the pharmacological properties of RALGA.

METHODS

The bioavailability of RAL into the skin after topical RALGA was studied by HPLC, and its bioconversion to RA was analysed by measuring the enzyme activity of retinaldehyde dehydrogenase and the RA content in the epidermis and dermis. The retinoid activity of RALGA was studied on the modulation of Hhb4 keratin mRNA on the tail of C57BL/6 mice, and its comedolytic properties on the size and density of dermal cysts and the morphology of sebaceous glands in hairless mice.

RESULTS

Epidermal and dermal concentrations of RAL and RA were higher after RALGA treatment, as compared to both RAL 0.1% alone and RA 0.05% alone; this indicates that the presence of GA favours the bioavailability and biotransformation of RAL into RA. The retinoid activity of RALGA (suppression of Hhb4 mRNA keratin) was similar to that of RAL alone, indicating that the presence of GA does not interfere with specific retinoid activity; GA alone had no effect in this test, which confirms the specificity of Hhb4 mRNA keratin modulation for retinoid activity. The diameter and the density of dermal cysts as well as the size of sebaceous glands were significantly decreased by RALGA.

CONCLUSION

These observations indicate that the addition of an AHA such as GA to a retinoid such as RAL results in a better bioavailability of the retinoid, thus a higher delivery of RA, which potentiates the biological activities of the retinoid. This combination allows a delivery of high amounts of RA in the skin while preventing the side-effects usually observed with high concentrations of topical RA.

Inhibitory effect of glycolic acid on ultraviolet-induced skin tumorigenesis in SKH-1 hairless mice and its mechanism of action

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from fruit and milk sugars, has been used commonly as a cosmetic ingredient since it was discovered to have photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effects and antioxidant effects on ultraviolet (UV)B-irradiated skin. Little is known, however, about the functional role of glycolic acid on UV-induced skin tumorigenesis. In the present study, we examined the effect of glycolic acid on UV (UVA + UVB)-induced skin tumorigenesis and assessed several significant contributing factors in SKH-1 hairless mice. Inbred hairless female mice (15 animals/group) were irradiated for 5 d/wk at a total dose of 74.85 J/cm(2) UVA and 2.44 J/cm(2) UVB for 22 wk. Glycolic acid was applied topically twice a week at a dose of 8 mg/cm(2) immediately after UV irradiation. Glycolic acid reduced UV-induced skin tumor development. The protective effect of glycolic acid was a 20% reduction of skin tumor incidence, a 55% reduction of tumor multiplicity (average number of tumors/mouse), and a 47% decrease in the number of large tumors (larger than 2 mm). Glycolic acid also delayed the first appearance of tumor formation by about 3 wk. The inhibitory effect of glycolic acid on UV-induced tumor development was accompanied by decreased expression of the following UV-induced cell-cycle regulatory proteins: proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA), cyclin D1, cyclin E, and the associated subunits cyclin-dependent kinase 2 (cdk2) and cdk4. In addition, the expression of p38 kinase, jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and mitogen-activated protein kinase kinase (MEK) also was lower in UV + glycolic acid-treated skin compared with expression in UV-irradiated skin. Moreover, transcription factors activator protein 1 (AP-1) and nuclear factor kappaB (NF-kappaB) activation was significantly lower in UV + glycolic acid-treated skin compared with activation in UV-irradiated skin. These results show that glycolic acid reduced UV-induced skin tumor development. The decreased expression of the cell-cycle regulatory proteins PCNA, cyclin D1, cyclin E, cdk2, and cdk4 and the signal mediators JNK, p38 kinase, and MEK may play a significant role in the inhibitory effect of glycolic acid on UV-induced skin tumor development. In addition, the inhibition of activation of transcription factors AP-1 and NF-kappaB could contribute significantly to the inhibitory effect of glycolic acid.