X-ray diffraction study on ordered, disordered and reconstituted intercellular lipid lamellar structure in stratum corneum

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Non-invasive depth profiling of the stratum corneum in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy considering the non-homogeneous distribution of keratin

Confocal Raman microscopy has a number of advantages in investigating the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo and ex vivo. The penetration profiles of xenobiotics in the SC, as well as depth profiles of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as the concentration of water depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds, total water concentration, the hydrogen bonding state of water molecules, concentration of intercellular lipids, the lamellar and lateral packing order of intercellular lipids, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor molecules, carotenoids, and the secondary and tertiary structure properties of keratin are well investigated. To consider the depth-dependent Raman signal attenuation, in most cases a normalization procedure is needed, which uses the main SC's protein keratin-related Raman peaks, based on the assumption that keratin is homogeneously distributed in the SC. We found that this assumption is not accurate for the bottom part of the SC, where the water concentration is considerably increased, thus, reducing the presence of keratin. Our results demonstrate that the bottom part of the SC depth profile should be multiplied by 0.94 in average in order to match this non-homogeneity, which result in a decrease of the uncorrected values in these depths. The correctly normalized depth profiles of the concentration of lipids, water, natural moisturizing factor and carotenoids are presented in this work. The obtained results should be taken into consideration in future skin research using confocal Raman microscopy.

The long periodicity phase (LPP) controversy part I: The influence of a natural-like ratio of the CER[EOS] analogue [EOS]-br in a CER[NP]/[AP] based stratum corneum modelling system: A neutron diffraction study

This study used neutron diffraction to investigate a ceramide-[NP] C24/[AP] C24 /[EOS]-br C30/cholesterol/lignoceric acid (0.6: 0.3: 0.1: 0.7: 1) based stratum corneum modelling system. By adding specifically deuterated ceramides-[NP]-D₃, [AP]-D₃, and [EOS]-br-D₃, detailed information on the lamellar and the nanostructure of the system was obtained. For the short periodicity phase a natural-like lamellar repeat distance of 5.47 ± 0.02 nm was observed, similar to the [NP]/[AP] base system without the [EOS]-br. Unlike in this system the ceramides here were slightly tilted, hinting towards a slightly less natural arrangement. Due to the deuteration it was possible to observe that the long ceramide chains were overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This is considered to be an important feature for the natural stratum corneum. Despite the presence of a ceramide [EOS] analogue - able to form a long phase arrangement - no distinct long periodicity phase was formed, despite a slightly higher than natural ω-acyl ceramide ratio of 10 mol%. The deuterated variant of this ceramide determined that the very long ceramide was integrated into the short periodicity phase, spanning multiple layers instead. The - compared to the base system - unchanged repeat distance highlights the stability of this structure. Furthermore, the localisation of the very long ceramide in the short periodicity phase indicates the possibility of a crosslinking effect and thus a multilayer stabilizing role for the ceramide [EOS]. It can be concluded, that additionally to the mere presence of ceramide-[EOS] more complex conditions have to be met in order to form this long phase. This has to be further investigated in the future.

Properties of ceramides and their impact on the stratum corneum structure. Part 2: stratum corneum lipid model systems

The stratum corneum (SC) represents the outermost layer of the mammalian skin, exhibits the main skin barrier and plays an important role in the water penetration pathway through the SC. Knowing the structure and properties of the SC at the molecular level is essential for studying drug penetration through the SC and for the development of new dermal drug delivery systems. Therefore, research interest is focused on the SC lipid matrix and on water diffusion through it. Thus, the ultimate aim is to design a lipid mixture that mimics the barrier properties of the human SC to a high extent and that can substitute the SC in drug delivery systems. This review summarizes various studies performed on either isolated animal or human ceramide based SC model systems, coming to the result that using synthetic lipids with a well-defined architecture allows good extrapolation to the in vivo situation. This review is the continuation of part 1 that is focused on a detailed description of the thermotropic and/or lyotropic phase behaviour of single ceramide types obtained by various experimental techniques. The objective of part 2 is to reflect the numerous studies on SC lipid model systems, namely binary, ternary and multicomponent systems, during the last decade. In this context, neutron diffraction as a prospective tool for analyzing the internal membrane structure is addressed in particular. Based on these new insights, current SC models are presented, whose validations are still under discussion. A profound knowledge about SC lipid organization at the molecular level is still missing.

Combined effects of ethanol and l-menthol on hairless rat stratum corneum investigated by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

Synchrotron X-ray diffraction was employed to evaluate the effect of ethanol and l-menthol on lipid arrangements in the stratum corneum of hairless rats. Two sharp diffractions (S=2.40 and S=2.67, corresponding to spacing of 0.417 nm and 0.374 nm respectively) were observed on the broad hump peak derived from soft keratin. To assist in understanding the effects of treatment with ethanol and l-menthol, an abundance ration of lipid hydrocarbon chain packing index (R(H/O)) was defined as R(H/O)=(Peak area at S=2.40 nm(-1))/(Peak area at S=2.67 nm(-1)). When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum the intensities of diffraction peaks declined slightly. The R(H/O) values observed were not affected by variations in ethanol concentrations in the range 0-40% (w/w). The R(H/O) values did not change even when treatment with ethanol (40%, w/w) was extended to 8 h. These results suggested that lipid arrangements in the stratum corneum were not affected by ethanol. On the other hand, exposure of the stratum corneum to 2% (w/w) L-menthol caused a significant decrease in R(H/O) value. It was shown that L-menthol was dispersed through the stratum corneum, intruded mainly into hexagonal hydrocarbon chain packing, and disrupted the regular organization of these structures.

Alteration of the 4-sphingenine scaffolds of ceramides in keratinocyte-specific Arnt-deficient mice affects skin barrier function

Aryl hydrocarbon receptor nuclear translocator (ARNT), a transcription factor of the Per/AHR/ARNT/Sim family, regulates gene expression in response to environmental stimuli including xenobiotics and hypoxia. To examine its role in the epidermis, the Cre-loxP system was used to disrupt the Arnt gene in a keratinocyte-specific manner. Gene-targeted, newborn mice with almost normal appearance died neonatally of severe dehydration caused by water loss. Histology showed small changes in the architecture of cornified layers, with apparently preserved intercorneocyte lamellar structures responsible for the skin barrier function. In contrast, HPLC/ion-trap mass spectrometry revealed significant alterations in the compositions of ceramides, the major components of the lamellae. The murine epidermal ceramides normally contain 4-sphingenine and 4-hydroxysphinganine. In Arnt-null epidermis, 4-sphingenine was largely replaced by sphinganine and the amounts of ceramides with 4-hydroxysphinganine were greatly decreased, suggesting deficiency of dihydroceramide desaturases that catalyze the formation of both 4-sphingenyl and 4-hydroxysphinganyl moieties. A desaturase isoenzyme, DES-1, prefers desaturation, but DES-2 catalyzes both reactions to a similar extent. Transcript levels of Des-2, but not Des-1, were considerably decreased in cultured keratinocytes from Arnt-null epidermis. These results indicate that proper ceramide compositions through 4-desaturation regulated by ARNT are crucial for maintaining the epidermal barrier function.

Analyse biochimique des lipides épidermiques

According to the knowledge acquired some 15 years ago, the cutaneous lipids may be classified into 2 families: the "neutral" lipids, represented by cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterol sulphate, triglycerides, free fatty acids, squalen and alcanes, and the "polar" lipids including phospholipids (phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, sphingomyeline) and sphingolipids (ceramides I-VII, monohexosylceramides). From the functional point of view, free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides organised in layers are the most important components of intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. Analytic methods have been recently developed to help understand the structural organisation of these various molecules within the horny layer and their influence on the epidermal barrier function. Raman microspectroscopy or X-ray diffraction are most frequently used. Differential calorimetry and fluorescence or infrared spectroscopy provide complementary information. The principal findings are: lamellar structure depends on the presence of ceramides supplemented by adequate quantities of free fatty acids and cholesterol; ceramide chains interact to provide the ordered structure and ceramide-1 is necessary for stabilisation of lipid layers; cholesterol may regulate the molecular mobility of hydrocarbon chains within the bi-layers. Knowledge of the molecular structure of the barrier lipids finds several applications, e.g.: in pharmacology--conception of new formulations adapted for percutaneous and topical application of drugs; in dermatology--comprehension of physiopathologic mechanisms of various dermatoses; in biotechnology--development of skin substitutes with valid stratum corneum barrier; in cosmetics--choice of best formulations suited for reconstruction of the intercellular lipid substance.

Swelling of intercellular lipid lamellar structure with short repeat distance in hairless mouse stratum corneum as studied by X-ray diffraction

Lamellar structures of intercellular lipids in stratum corneum of hairless mouse were studied at various water contents by small-angle X-ray diffraction. At room temperature there are at least two lamellar structures, long and short lamellar structures, with repeat distances of 13.6 and around 6 nm, respectively. The long lamellar spacing is almost constant over the water content from 0% w/w to 80% w/w that is consistent with the previously reported results. For the short lamellar structure we found that with increasing the water content the lamellar spacing becomes larger, that is, from 12 to 50% w/w the short lamellar spacing increases from 5.8 to 6.6 nm. In addition to the previously reported result that at the water content of about 20% w/w the X-ray diffraction peak for the long lamellar structure becomes sharp, we found that this is also the case for the short lamellar structure. Below the water content of about 12% w/w the X-ray diffraction peak for the short lamellar structure dies out and conversely above the water content of about 50% w/w it becomes weak and finally merges into the second-order diffraction peak for the long lamellar structure. Considering the matching of the long lamellar spacing that is unchanged with the water content and twice the short lamellar spacing that changes as a function of the water content, it is likely that the swelling of the short lamellar structure plays an important role in the regulation of water stored in stratum corneum.