Analyse biochimique des lipides épidermiques

Wheat Extract Oil (WEO) Attenuates UVB-Induced Photoaging via Collagen Synthesis in Human Keratinocytes and Hairless Mice

The efficacy of wheat extract oil (WEO), standardized to glucosylceramides, for protecting against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced damage of skin barrier function was assessed using the SHK-1 hairless mouse model and two human skin cell lines, namely, CCD-986sk and HeCaT. The ability of repeated oral administration of 30, 60, and 120 mg of WEO/kg/day for 12 weeks to prevent skin damage of SKH-1 hairless mice induced by UVB irradiation was evaluated. The results demonstrated that UVB-induced water evaporation (transepidermal water loss, TEWL) was significantly decreased by WEO. Similarly, UVB-induced losses in moisture and skin elasticity were improved by WEO supplementation. WEO attenuated the tissue procollagen type I, hyaluronic acid (HA), and ceramide reductions induced by UVB treatment as well. Collagen concentrations in skin tissue were increased in the WEO-treated mice, while UVB-induced epidermal thickening was reduced. In vitro studies using HeCaT human keratinocytes confirmed increased HA and collagen synthesis in response to WEO treatment. This may occur via WEO suppression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), since its induction by UVB treatment was diminished in treated CCD-986sk cells. Oral administration of WEO improves skin barrier function in UVB-irradiated mice by attenuating damage typically observed in photoaging. This research further clarifies the clinical benefits previously observed by dietary WEO consumption.

Polar lipids from wheat extract oil improve skin damages induced by aging: Evidence from a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in women and an ex vivo study on human skin explant

BACKGROUND

Polar lipids from wheat (Triticum vulgare/aestivum) extract oil (WEO) are known to improve skin hydration.

AIMS

These studies aimed to assess WEO benefits on the skin appearance of middle-aged women.

METHODS

A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out on 64 healthy women, aged from 45 to 60 years, to investigate antiaging effects and benefits for the skin. The study lasted 20 weeks including 12 weeks of oral supplementation with WEO or placebo and 8 weeks of follow-up. Wrinkles in the "crow's-feet" area were evaluated by the Lemperle score. Skin hydration was measured using a corneometer, while roughness and radiance were determined by clinical scoring. Collagen content was quantified in human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiations and treated with WEO or vehicle control.

RESULTS

Compared to the placebo group, the Lemperle score was significantly reduced in the WEO group between W0 and W8 to reach a clinically significant 1 grade at W12. Facial hydration was significantly improved in the WEO group from W0 to W12, whereas leg hydration was significantly increased after 4 weeks and lasted throughout the supplementation period. Skin roughness and radiance were also significantly improved from W0 to W8 in the WEO group compared to placebo group. A higher collagen content was measured in the UV-irradiated skin explants treated with WEO compared to the untreated ones.

CONCLUSION

These results confirmed the moisturizing effect of WEO and, for the first time, revealed its potential antiaging properties.

Skin surface physico-chemistry: Characteristics, methods of measurement, influencing factors and future developments

Physico-chemical properties such as surface free energy, polarity or hydrophobicity of solid surfaces have been largely studied in literature because they are involved in many physical phenomena: adhesion, friction, wetting … Nowadays, the study of biointerfaces is of great interest for the medical, the pharmaceutical or the cosmetic field but also for material design researches, especially for the development of biomimetic surfaces. The present paper focuses on a particular biointerface, namely skin, which is the most extended organ of the human body. The different ways for the study of skin physico-chemistry are first reviewed, followed by their practical uses, from pharmaceutical to cosmetic science. Those properties depict the ways skin interacts with topical products, its lipid composition but also its hydration state. In addition, this article aims to present recent approaches using original model materials in order to mimic human skin; indeed, in vivo experiments are often limited by the inter and intra individual variability, the safety regulation and above all the time and the cost of such studies. Finally, further data clearly highlight the importance of skin surface properties for dermatological and pharmaceutical researches.

Role of particle coating in controlling skin damage photoinduced by titania nanoparticles

TiO(2) nanoparticles hazard is associated to their photocatalytic activity causing release of DNA damaging ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species), lipid peroxidation and skin damage. Various coatings have been proposed to minimize photocatalysis, while keeping the potential to block UV radiations. Uncoated and variously coated commercial nano-titania have been classified on the basis of UVB-induced lipoperoxidation of linoleic acid. A selection of the most and the least protective specimens was then examined by ESR (Electron Spin Resonance) to evidence the presence of surface paramagnetic centres and the release of ROS in aqueous suspensions (spin trapping). Paramagnetic centres and ROS were correlated with the extent of lipid peroxidation. When tested on porcine skin (mimicking the human one), titania acted as on linoleic acid. The combined use of lipid peroxidation of simple fatty acids with ESR analysis is here proposed as a possible screening tool for the evaluation of the potential toxicity of nano-titania in sunscreen preparations.

New advances on the functions of epidermal growth factor receptor and ceramides in skin cell differentiation, disorders and cancers

Recent advances in understanding of the biological functions of the epidermal growth factor and epidermal growth factor receptor (EGF-EGFR) system and ceramide production for the maintenance of skin integrity and barrier function are reported. In particular, the opposite roles of EGFR and ceramide cascades in epithelial keratinocyte proliferation, migration and terminal differentiation are described. Moreover, the functions of ceramides in the epidermal permeability barrier are reviewed. The alterations in EGFR signaling and ceramide metabolism, which might be involved in the etiopathogenesis of diverse skin disorders and cancers, are described. New progress in understanding of skin organization, which might provide the basis for the design of new transcutaneous drug delivery techniques as well as for the development of new therapies of skin disorders and cancers, are reported.