A new approach to the evaluation of whitening effect of a cosmetic using computer analysis of video-captured image

Desaturation-Induced Brightness in Face Color Perception

The distinctiveness of perception of face from nonface objects has been noted previously. However, face brightness is often confounded with whiteness in the beauty industry; few studies have examined these perceptual differences. To investigate the interactions among face color attributes, we measured the effect of saturation on brightness and whiteness in both uniform color patches and face images to elucidate the relationship between these two perceptions. We found that, at constant luminance, a uniform color patch looked brighter with an increase in saturation (i.e., the Helmholtz-Kohlrausch effect occurred), while in contrast, brightness of a facial skin image looked less bright with increased saturation (i.e., contrary to the Helmholtz-Kohlrausch effect), which suggested this interaction of color attributes was influenced by top-down information. We conclude that this inverse effect of saturation on brightness for face images is not due to face recognition, color range of the skin tone, the luminance distribution, or recognition of human skin but due to the composite interactions of these facial skin factors in higher order recognition mechanisms.

Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals and over-the-counter cosmeceuticals incorporating antioxidants are among the most popular anti-aging products available. One potent antioxidant of particular note, vitamin C, has been extensively utilized because it possesses a variety of other cutaneous benefits including photoprotection from UV A & B, neocollagenesis, inhibition of melanogenesis and improvement of a variety of inflammatory skin disorders. However, the instability of this water-soluble vitamin, together with difficulties associated with its topical delivery, has presented issues for the formulation chemist. This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies that underpin the stability, percutaneous absorption, and cutaneous effects of vitamin C together with its commonly utilized, commercially available derivatives.

Natural options for the management of hyperpigmentation

Facial hyperpigmented disorders are a common complaint in the adult population of all races. First-line topical treatments are usually hydroquinone or topical retinoids, which can cause irritant reactions. The need for better tolerated, yet effective, skin lightening agents that could be utilized by a wider population has led to the investigation of several potential botanical/natural compounds. There are currently many topical cosmetic formulations claiming skin depigmenting effects. A few of the ingredients (e.g. soy) are supported not only by in vitro results but also by a body of controlled clinical efficacy studies; other ingredients, instead, are backed mostly by in vitro data and a few small uncontrolled clinical studies. In this review, we describe the most common natural ingredients used for skin depigmentation and their major published studies: soy, licorice extracts, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, N-acetylglucosamine, COFFEEBERRY(™) and green tea.

The evaluation of whitening efficacy of cosmetic products using a human skin pigmentation spot model

BACKGROUND

To establish a pigmentation spot model on human skin and to assess whitening efficacy for whitening products by this established pigmentation spot model.

METHODS

Twenty subjects between 20 and 45 years old with skin phototype III or IV were selected. Three consecutive daily UV exposures were performed on buttocks of the subjects as follows: Day 1=1 minimal erythema dose (MED), Day 2=0.5 MED and Day 3=0.5 MED. After the first UV exposure, a selected whitening product was applied to the subjects twice a day on UV exposure area. The application of the whitening product to subjects on the exposed areas was continued till Day 27. CM2500d chromameter, Maxmeter MX18 and visual evaluation were used to assess changes of skin color.

RESULTS

A pigmentation spot model after UV exposure was established. The measurement of the pigment spot showed that L* value declined abruptly at Day 3 and then slowly reached to a lowest point at Day 6. L* value of the pigment spot almost remained at the same level until Day 20, thereafter increased slowly. The a* value showed an abrupt increase at Day 3 and slowly reached to a maximal level at Day 6. The a* value slowly declined toward its baseline level. Likewise, the erythema index also increased significantly at Day 3, and reached to a maximal level at Day 6 and then slowly declined. However, L*, a* and erythema indices did not return to their baseline levels during the 27-day period of this study. On the other hand, b* value started to increase from Day 3 and such increase was observed continuously to Day 27. Melanin index also showed a slow increase during the first 3 days. It started to increase rapidly from Day 3 and a to maximal level at Day 9 and maintain at a plateau till Day 27 (with an exception at Day 13). To assess the whitening product by this pigmentation spot model, DeltaL, Deltab*, and DeltaM values were analyzed. It showed that absolute DeltaL value and Deltab*value of whitening products were lower than those values of the vehicle of the whitening product at each checkpoint, while DeltaM value of the whitening product was lower only at Day 9 and Day 20, although no statistically significant differences was found. The visual results also strongly supported that the whitening product enhanced the decrease of pigmentation.

CONCLUSION

This study showed that repeated UV exposure was able to induce a long extensive period of pigment formation. The resulted pigmentation spot was able to maintain at an elevated level till Day 20. Clinical subjective evaluations together with combined objective instrument measurements were still important to assess whitening and spot-removing ability of a material due to the instrument limitation for color differentiations. This kind of pigmentation spot model can be used to assess whitening efficacy for whitening or spot-removing products. In addition, the combinations of subjective and objective methods were able to serve as advisable references to assess the whitening efficacy of products.

New approach to the evaluation of skin color of pigmentary lesions using Skin Tone Color Scale

Objective methods of measuring skin color are needed to evaluate pigmentary lesions quantitatively. We have developed a new method of measuring skin color using a plastic bar system called the Skin Tone Color Scale based on Munsell's color space system. We have also evaluated the effectiveness of various therapies using this measurement system. Our system was designed to measure skin color in normal skin, pigmentary lesions of solar lentigo, chloasma and ephelides, and postinflammatory pigmentation. Moreover, effectiveness of various therapies for these pigmentary lesions was evaluated. The evaluations made with this system were closely related to physician assessment. This method may be useful in measuring of skin color and evaluating the effectiveness of therapies for pigmentary diseases.

Recent advances in chemical peeling in Japan

Chemical peeling is one of the dermatological treatments available for certain cutaneous diseases and conditions or aesthetic improvement. This treatment consists of the application of one or more chemical agents to the skin. Recently in Japan, chemical peeling has been very popular for medical as well as aesthetic treatment. Because the scientific background and an adequate approach have not been completely established, medical and social problems have been reported. To address these issues, the Japanese Dermatological Association has established standard guidelines for chemical peeling, and the scientific background and validity of chemical peeling has been assessed. In this review, a set of guidelines for chemical peeling is introduced, and we will discuss several clinical and histological studies including the effects of glycolic acid, and the application of deer peeling to skin tumors in our department.

Development and validation of a reversed-phase ion-pair liquid chromatography method for the determination of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and melatonin in cosmetic creams

A reversed-phase ion-pair high-performance liquid chromatographic method was developed and validated for the determination of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and melatonin in cosmetic creams. The determination was performed on a BDS C 18 analytical column (250 x 4.6 mm i.d., 5 microm particle size); the mobile phase consisted of 0.020 M tetrabutylammonium hydroxide and 0.025 M potassium dihydrogen phosphate (pH 6.8) mixed with acetonitrile in a ratio (77:23, v/v) and pumped at a flow rate 1.00 ml min(-1). The UV detector was operated at 260 nm. The retention times of the magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, melatonin and chlorthalidone that was used as internal standard, were 6.55, 9.18 and 11.07 min, respectively. Calibration graphs are linear (r better than 0.9990, n=6), in concentration range 1.00-10.00 microg ml(-1) for magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 0.63-6.25 microg ml(-1) for melatonin. The intra- and inter-day R.S.D. values were less than 6.0%, while the relative percentage error E(r) was less than 3.5% (n=5). The quantitation limits were 0.69 and 0.47 microg ml(-1), for magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and melatonin, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of a cosmetic cream and proved to be suitable for rapid and reliable quality control.