Chiral monoterpenoids in plants — Enantioselective chromatographic analysis, and their bioactivity

Type and magnitude of non-compliance and adulteration in neroli, mandarin and bergamot essential oils purchased on-line: potential consumer vulnerability

Thirty-one samples of essential oils used both in perfumery and aromatherapy were purchased to business-to-consumers suppliers and submitted to standard gas chromatography-based analysis of their chemical composition. Their compliance with ISO AFNOR standards was checked and revealed, although ISO AFNOR ranges are relatively loose, that more than 45% of the samples analyzed failed to pass the test and more than 19% were diluted with solvents such as propylene and dipropylene glycol, triethyl citrate, or vegetal oil. Cases of non-compliance could be due to substitution or dilution with a cheaper essential oil, such as sweet orange oil, blending with selected compounds (linalool and linalyl acetate, maybe of synthetic origin), or issues of aging, harvest, or manufacturing that should be either deliberate or accidental. In some cases, natural variability could be invoked. These products are made available to the market without control and liability by resellers and could expose the public to safety issues, in addition to commercial prejudice, in sharp contrast with the ever-increasing regulations applying to the sector and the high demand of consumers for safe, controlled and traceable products in fragrances and cosmetic products.