Surface Selection Rule of Infrared Diffuse Reflection Spectrometry for Analysis of Molecular Adsorbates on a Rough Surface of a Nonabsorbing Medium

In vivo characterization of the structures of films of a fatty acid and an alcohol adsorbed on the skin surface

An in vivo analysis of stearyl alcohol and stearic acid films on the skin surface using polarized infrared-external reflection spectroscopy revealed that whether the sample molecules adopt an energetically stable conformation and orientation strongly depends on the molecular functionalities and sample preparation conditions. For stearic acid, even the difference in solute concentration between 0.1 and 0.5 wt% results in a different molecular conformation and orientation. This illustrates that the molecular organization of the adsorbate on the skin surface is sensitively determined by the kinetics of the sample film growth, not by the simple thermodynamic equilibrium with the skin temperature.

Concealing a shiny facial skin appearance by an Aerogel-based formula. In vitro and in vivo studies

OBJECTIVE

To explore, in vitro and in vivo, the potential interest of an Aerogel-based formula, in concealing a naturally shiny facial skin.

METHODS

In vitro, various formulae and ingredients were applied as a thin film onto contrast plates and studied through measuring the shine induced following pump spraying of a mixture of oleic acid and mineral water as a sebum/sweat mix model. In such a test, an Aerogel ingredient led to very positive results. In vivo, two different formulae with various concentrations of Aerogel were randomly tested on half side of the face vs. bare side of Chinese women, under some provocative environmental conditions, known to enhance facial shine. These conditions comprised a normal activity under a hot and highly humid summer time followed - or not - by a hamam session. Both studies included comparative evaluations using a half-face procedure (treated/untreated or vehicle). In the first case, evaluations were quantitatively carried out, whereas the second one was based on a quantitative self-evaluations from standardized full-face photographs RESULTS: In vitro, the tested Aerogel, incorporated at 1% or 2% concentration in a common O/W cosmetic emulsion, shows an immediate light scattering effect, thereby masking shine. Such effect appears of much higher amplitude than that of two other tested particulate ingredients (Talc and Perlite). A noticeable remanence of anti-shine effect was confirmed in vivo in extreme conditions. The latter was self-perceived by all participants in the second study. This result is likely related to the super hydrophobic behaviour of the Aerogel.

CONCLUSION

As cosmetic ingredient, this new Aerogel appears as a highly promising ingredient for concealing the facial skin shine, a source of complaint from many consumers living in hot and humid regions.