Modeling Fragrance Components Release from a Simplified Matrix Used in Toiletries and Household Products

Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions: From microstructure to skin application

Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed.

Perfume and Flavor Engineering: A Chemical Engineering Perspective

In the last two decades, scientific methodologies for the prediction of the design, performance and classification of fragrance mixtures have been developed at the Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering. This review intends to give an overview of such developments. It all started with the question: what do we smell? The Perfumery Ternary Diagram enables us to determine the dominant odor for each perfume composition. Evaporation and 1D diffusion model is analyzed based on vapor-liquid equilibrium and Fick's law for diffusion giving access to perfume performance parameters. The effect of matrix and skin is addressed and the trail of perfumes analyzed. Classification of perfumes with the perfumery radar is discussed. The methodology is extended to flavor and taste engineering. Finally, future research directions are suggested.

Photocontrollable Release with Coumarin-Based Profragrances

The achievement of controllable and lasting scent on a targeted surface is a long-term goal in the field of flavors and fragrances. Herein, we design a novel series of phototriggered coumarin-based profragrances conjugated with volatile carboxylic fragrances via activatable chemical bridge of ester group, thereby achieving the controllable release of volatile fragrances under ambient conditions. Upon exposure to light, the fragile ester group of profragrances allows the slow release of fragrance molecules, building up a new light-sensitive fragrance delivery system. The incorporated coumarin unit of CM-OH as phototrigger is killing two birds with one stone, that is, precise photocontrollable release of fragrance molecules, and unprecedented fluorescence intensity to monitor the releasing process of fragrance molecules with linear relationship (R² > 0.95). In comparison, the light-induced releasing amount from profragrances of CM-O-EA, CM-O-PEA, CM-O-PA, and CM-O-CA is much lower than corresponding free fragrances by 33-, 8.5-, 13-, and 983-fold, respectively. As demonstrated, the coumarin-based profragrances provide a phototriggered platform to realize the controllable release of volatile fragrances, resulting in a long-lasting headspace concentration on the targeted surface of wallpaper.