Depth Dependence of Stratum Corneum Lipid Ordering: A Slow-Tumbling Simulation for Electron Paramagnetic Resonance

Polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) random copolymer improves lipid structural ordering in stratum corneum of an epidermal-equivalent model as seen by two-photon microscopy

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Topical application of polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) random copolymer improves the barrier function of skin, whereas polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polypropylene glycol (PPG) are ineffective. The aim of this work was to examine the interaction between these polymers and lipid molecules in the stratum corneum in order to establish whether EPDME-specific changes in the structural ordering of lipids might account for the improvement of barrier function.

METHODS

We used two-photon microscopy to evaluate the effects of EPDME, PEG, and PPG on the structural ordering of lipids in an epidermal-equivalent model in terms of the fluorescence changes of Laurdan, a fluorescent dye that responds to changes of membrane fluidity. The generalized polarization (GP) value, a parameter that reflects lipid ordering, was measured at various depths from the surface of the stratum corneum.

RESULTS

EPDME increased the GP value to a depth of about 3 µm from the surface, indicating that lipid ordering was increased in this region, while PEG and PPG of the same molecular weight had no effect. Diffusion of Lucifer yellow into the epidermis was reduced after application of EPDME, indicating that the barrier function was improved.

CONCLUSION

These results support the view that EPDME improves barrier function by increasing the ordering of lipid structures in the stratum corneum. The methodology described here could be useful for screening new compounds that would improve the structural ordering of lipids.

Quantification of Lipid Phase Order of In Vivo Human Skin Using Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR FT-IR) Spectroscopy and Multivariate Curve Resolution Analysis

A new analysis methodology utilizing multivariate curve resolution (MCR) has been successfully combined with Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) measurement of in vivo human skin to resolve lipid phase constituents in the spectra relative to high and low chain ordering. A clinical study was performed to measure lipid order through different depths of stratum corneum of human subjects. Fourier transform IR spectra were collected through the top 10 layers of the skin on four sites on the left and right forearm of 12 individuals. Depth profiling was achieved by tape stripping to remove layers of skin with 10 successive tapes from each site. In vivo ATR FT-IR spectra were collected after removing each tape. Three isolated spectral regions were analyzed, centered around 2850 cm^-1, 1460-1480 cm^-1, and 730 cm^-1, corresponding to stretching, scissoring, and rocking -CH₂ vibrational modes, respectively. Both traditional lipid conformation analysis and MCR analysis were performed on the same spectral data. The lipid order ratio, expressed as the fraction of highly ordered orthorhombic (OR) lipids to the total lipids content (orthorhombic + hexagonal [HEX] + liquid crystal [LC]), was assessed as function of depth. Lipid order depth profiles (LODP) show an increase in order with the stratum corneum depth which can be adequately described by an exponential function for the data obtained in this study. The LODP derived from the three vibrational modes show very similar trends, although the absolute order ratios are somewhat different. The variance of the skin LODP across individuals is much greater than between sites within the same individual. The higher arm sites closer to the elbow on the left and right arm show no statistically significant difference and are recommended for use in comparative studies. The scissoring mode shows the highest sensitivity for determination of LODP value.

Characterization of Melanin Radicals in Paraffin-embedded Malignant Melanoma and Nevus Pigmentosus Using X-band EPR and EPR Imaging

Continuous wave electron paramagnetic resonance (CW EPR) and X-band (9 GHz) EPR imaging (EPRI) were used to nondestructively investigate the possible differentiation between malignant melanoma (MM) and nevus pigmentosus (NP) melanin radicals in paraffin-embedded specimens. The EPR spectra of both samples were analyzed using linewidth, spectral pattern, and X-band EPRI. The CW-EPR spectra of the MM showed an additional signal overlap. Eumelanin- and pheomelanin-related radicals were observed in the MM specimens. The EPR results revealed that the peak-to-peak linewidths (ΔH_pp) of paraffin-embedded MM and NP samples were 0.65 ± 0.01 and 0.69 ± 0.01 mT, respectively. The g-value was 2.005 for both samples. Moreover, the two-dimensional (2D) EPRI of the MM showed different signal intensities at the different tumor stages, unlike the NP, which displayed fewer variations in signal intensity. Thus, the present results suggest that EPR and 2D EPRI can be useful for characterization of the two melanin radicals in the MM and for determination of their size and concentration.

Micron-scale assessment of molecular lipid organization in human stratum corneum using microprobe X-ray diffraction

Lipid and protein components of the stratum corneum (SC) are organized in complex supramolecular arrangements. Exploring spatial relations between various possible substructures is important for understanding the barrier function of this uppermost layer of epidermis. Here, we report the first study where micro-focus X-ray scattering was used for assessing fine structural variations of the human skin barrier with micrometer resolution. We found that the scattering profiles were unchanged when scanning in the direction parallel to the SC surface. Furthermore, small-angle scattering profiles did not change as a function of depth in the SC, confirming that the lipid lamellar spacings remained the same throughout the SC. However, the wide-angle scattering data showed that the orthorhombic phase was more abundant in the middle layers of the SC, whereas the hexagonal phase dominated in the surface layers both at the external and the lowest part of the SC; i.e., the lipids were most tightly packed in the middle region of the SC. Taken together, our results demonstrate that microprobe X-ray diffraction provides abundant information about spatial variations of the SC lipid structure and thus may be a promising tool for assessing the effects of topical formulations on the barrier function of skin.

Cellular changes that accompany shedding of human corneocytes

Corneocyte desquamation has been ascribed to either: 1) proteolytic degradation of corneodesmosomes (CD); 2) disorganization of extracellular lamellar bilayers; and/or 3) ‘swell-shrinkage-slough’ (SSS) from hydration/dehydration. To address the cellular basis for normal exfoliation, we compared changes in lamellar bilayer architecture and CD structure in DSquame® strips from the 1st vs. 5th stripping (‘outer’ vs. ‘mid’-stratum corneum [SC], respectively) from 9 normal adult forearms. Strippings were either processed for standard EM or for ruthenium (Ru-V)- or osmium-tetroxide (Os-V) vapor fixation, followed by immediate epoxy embedment, an artifact-free protocol that to our knowledge is previously unreported. CDs are largely intact in the mid-SC, but replaced by electron-dense (hydrophilic) clefts (lacunae) that expand laterally, splitting lamellar arrays in the outer SC. Some undegraded DSG1/DSC1 redistribute uniformly into corneocyte envelopes (CEs) in the outer SC (shown by proteomics, Z-stack confocal imaging and immunoEM). CEs then thicken, likely facilitating exfoliation by increasing corneocyte rigidity. In vapor-fixed images, hydration only altered the volume of the extracellular compartment, expanding lacunae further separating membrane arrays. During dehydration, air replaced water, maintaining the expanded extracellular compartment. Hydration also provoked degradation of membranes by activating contiguous acidic ceramidase activity. Together, these studies identify several parallel mechanisms that orchestrate exfoliation from the surface of normal human skin.