Influence of the Solvent Environment on the Ultrafast Relaxation Pathways of a Sunscreen Molecule Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

The excited-state dynamics of photoexcited diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), a UVA absorber widely used in sunscreen formulations, are studied with transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopy methods in four different solvents. In the polar solvents methanol, dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), and acetonitrile, strong stimulated emission (SE) is observed at early time delays after photoexcitation at a near-UV wavelength of λ_ex = 360 nm, and decays with time constants of 420 fs in methanol and 770 fs in DMSO. The majority (∼95%) of photoexcited DHHB returns to the ground state with time constants of 15 ps in methanol and 25 ps in DMSO. In the nonpolar solvent cyclohexane, ∼ 98% of DHHB photoexcited at λ_ex = 345 nm relaxes to the ground state with a ∼ 10 ps time constant, and the SE is weak. DHHB preferentially adopts an enol form in its ground S₀ state, but excited state absorption (ESA) bands seen in TEAS are assigned to both the S₁-keto and S₁-enol forms, indicating a role for ultrafast intramolecular excited state hydrogen transfer (ESHT). This ESHT is inhibited by polar solvents. The two S₁ tautomers decay with similar time scales to the observed recovery of ground state population. For molecules that avoid ESHT, torsion around a central C-C bond minimizes the S₁-enol energy, quenches the SE, and is proposed to lead to a conical intersection with the S₀ state that mediates the ground state recovery. A competing trans-enol isomeric photoproduct is observed as a minor competitor to parent recovery in polar solvents. Evidence is presented for triplet (T₁) enol production in polar solvents, and for T₁ quenching by octocrylene, a common UVB absorber sunscreen additive. The T₁ keto form is observed in cyclohexane solution.

Suppression of menthyl anthranilate (UV-A sunscreen)-sensitized singlet oxygen generation by Trolox and α-tocopherol

Menthyl anthranilate (MA, tradename meradimate) is a UV-A absorber. The interactions of ground-state molecular oxygen with the long-lived triplet state of MA produce singlet oxygen through energy transfer. The quantum yield of singlet oxygen generation is 0.12 in air-saturated ethanol. Kinetic traces of the near-IR phosphorescence of singlet oxygen generated by MA-photosensitization have been measured in the absence and presence of Trolox (a water-soluble analogue of vitamin E and a quencher of singlet oxygen) and α-tocopherol (vitamin E, a natural antioxidant) in ethanol. Fluorescence and transient absorption measurements suggest that Trolox and α-tocopherol quench the lowest excited singlet and triplet states of MA. As a result, Trolox and α-tocopherol suppress MA-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation. Not only the quenching of singlet oxygen but also the suppression of singlet oxygen generation is the mechanism of antioxidant properties of Trolox and α-tocopherol for MA. The ability of α-tocopherol to suppress the MA-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation in isododecane, used as a solvent for an oil-soluble UV absorber, is close to that in ethanol. Suppression of sunscreen-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation is an important method for the formulation of safe cosmetic sunscreens.

New insight into the photoinduced wavelength dependent decay mechanisms of the ferulic acid system on the excited states

The ferulic acid (FA) is a kind of phenolic acid widely exists in nature plants. Apart from its medicinal values, the FA is also widely applied in cosmetic industry. Recently, it was found to have potential applications in commercial sunscreens for its strong photostability and photoprotection property from harmful UV rays. Such excellent property lies in the ultrafast decay process of the FA system when exposure to the UV light, but the underlying detailed relaxation pathway is still less clear-cut. In the current work, high-level ab initio electronic structure calculations and on-the-fly surface hopping dynamics simulations were employed to explore the photoinduced decay mechanism of the FA system both on the S₁ and S₃ states in the gas phase. The results provide a reasonable explanation for the wavelength dependent decay patterns of FA system. The S₁ state decay pathway is driven by a re-emission process to dissipate excess energy. While for the S₃ state deactivation process, the pathway is dominated by a non-adiabatic process driven by the internal conversion process through the conical intersection regions. A S₃-S₁-S₀ two step decay pattern is proposed, and the pathways are mainly driven by a puckering distortion motion of the aromatic ring and a twisting motion around the bridging double bond. The calculation results contribute to a better understanding of detailed dynamics behavior of the FA deactivation process, and provide theoretical guidance for further design of efficient and environmentally friendly sunscreens.

Revisiting the Role of Irradiance in the Determination of Sunscreens' Sun Protection Factor

The efficacy of a sunscreen tends to be associated with its sun protection factor (SPF) value, a figure determined in a test that relies on the independence of the SPF value to both UV radiation dose and irradiance. We probe these assumptions when photoinduced product degradation is present, and we estimate that the theoretical limit for their validity is when the sunfilter active molecule relaxation time is faster than ∼10 ns. While such threshold relaxation time should be compatible with the expected ultrafast relaxation mechanisms of sunfilter molecules (picoseconds), recent research on sunfilter photodynamics has identified the existence of much longer-lived molecular states. Such long lifetimes could compromise sunscreen performance and make the SPF value very different in natural sun irradiance conditions than in the solar simulated conditions typically used in SPF determination tests.

A novel characteristic of salicylate UV absorbers: suppression of diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (Corapan TQ)-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation

40% of the quantum yield of DEHN-photosensitized singlet oxygen generation is decreased by adding 32 mmol dm⁻³ EHS.

From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable skin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10-15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10-12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom-up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research.

Effect of thiophene substitution on the intersystem crossing of arene photosensitizers

Thiophene substitution gives energy level-matched S₁/T₂ states and the ISC is enhanced, which was not observed with phenyl substitution.

Photophysical properties of diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (Corapan TQ), a photostabilizer for sunscreens

60% of the absorbed UV energy is released as fluorescence, while 40% is used to produce the excited triplet state.

Photophysical properties of hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate (Uvinul A Plus), a UV-A absorber

DHHB (photostable UV-A absorber) may act as a triplet energy donor for OMC (the most widely used UV-B absorber) because the T₁energy of DHHB is higher than that of OMC.

Photoexcited triplet states of UV-B absorbers: ethylhexyl triazone and diethylhexylbutamido triazone

The lowest excited triplet state of a UV-B absorber with extremely high molecular extinction, ethylhexyl triazone, can be assigned to a locally excited³ππ* state within a chromophore,p-(N-methylamino)benzoic acid.

Optical and electron paramagnetic resonance studies of the excited triplet states of UV-B absorbers: 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate

UV-B absorbers, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate, show a photoinduced phosphorescence enhancement, which originates from the photoinduced intermolecular hydrogen-bond formation.