Simple, green, ultrasound-assisted preparation of novel core-shell microcapsules from octyl methoxycinnamate and oligomeric proanthocyanidins for UV-stable sunscreen

Current Challenges in Microcapsule Designs and Microencapsulation Processes: A Review

Microencapsulation is an advanced methodology for the protection, preservation, and/or delivery of active materials in a wide range of industrial sectors, such as pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, fragrances, paints, coatings, detergents, food products, and agrochemicals. Polymeric materials have been extensively used as microcapsule shells to provide appropriate barrier properties to achieve controlled release of the encapsulated active ingredient. However, significant limitations are associated with such capsules, including undesired leaching and the nonbiodegradable nature of the typically used polymers. In addition, the energy cost of manufacturing microcapsules is an important factor to be considered when designing microcapsule systems and the corresponding production processes. Recent factors linked to UN sustainability goals are modifying how such microencapsulation systems should be designed in pursuit of "ideal" microcapsules that are efficient, safe, cost-effective and environmentally friendly. This review provides an overview of advances in microencapsulation, with emphasis on sustainable microcapsule designs. The key evaluation techniques to assess the biodegradability of microcapsules, in compliance with recently evolving European Union requirements, are also described. Moreover, the most common methodologies for the fabrication of microcapsules are presented within the framework of their energy demand. Recent promising microcapsule designs are also highlighted for their suitability toward meeting current design requirements and stringent regulations, tackling the ongoing challenges, limitations, and opportunities.

Anti-UV Microgel Based on Interfacial Polymerization to Decrease Skin Irritation of High Permeability UV Absorber Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) is frequently employed as a photoprotective agent in sunscreen formulations. EHMC has been found to potentially contribute to health complications as a result of its propensity to produce irritation and permeate the skin. A microgel carrier, consisting of poly(ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) (pEDGMA), was synthesized using interfacial polymerization with the aim of reducing the irritation and penetration of EHMC. The thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) indicated that the EHMC content accounted for 75.72% of the total composition. Additionally, the scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images depicted the microgel as exhibiting a spherical morphology. In this study, the loading of EHMC was demonstrated through FTIR and contact angle tests. The UV resistance, penetration, and skin irritation of the EHMC-pEDGMA microgel were additionally assessed. The investigation revealed that the novel sunscreen compound, characterized by limited dermal absorption, had no irritant effects and offered sufficient protection against ultraviolet radiation.

Preparation of enzymolysis porous corn starch composite microcapsules embedding organic sunscreen agents and its UV protection performance and stability

In this paper, a natural composite wall material sunscreen microcapsule was prepared, which significantly improved the SPF value and photostability of the embedded sunscreen agents. Using modified porous corn starch and whey protein as wall materials, the sunscreen agents 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoic acid hexyl ester and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate were embedded by adsorption, emulsion, encapsulation and solidification. The embedding rate of the obtained sunscreen microcapsules was 32.71 % and the average size was 7.98 μm; the enzymatic hydrolyzed starch formed a porous structure, its X-ray diffraction pattern did not change significantly, and the specific volume and oil absorption rate increased by 39.89 % and 68.32 %, respectively, compared with those before enzymatic hydrolyzed; The porous surface of the starch after embedding the sunscreen was covered and sealed with whey protein. 120 h sunscreen penetration rate was lower than 12.48 %; Compared with the lotion containing the same amount of sunscreen but not encapsulated, the SPF value of the lotion containing sunscreen microcapsules increased by 62.24 %, and the photostability of sunscreen microcapsules increased by 66.28 % within 8 h under the irradiation intensity of 25 w/m². The wall material and the preparation method are natural and environmentally friendly, and have a good application prospect in low-leakage drug delivery system.

Design of Proanthocyanidins and TiO2 Nanoparticles-Based Novel Emulsions as a Platform for UV Protection

A white oil-in-water novel emulsion stabilized by TiO2 nanoparticles with UVB shielding properties and proanthocyanidins with antioxidant activity was prepared, where the proanthocyanidins aggregated at the oil-water interface to reduce interfacial tension while TiO2 nanoparticles were dispersed in the continuous water phase to hinder droplet coalescence. It was found that the average oil droplet size was less than 10 μm and decreased with the increase of proanthocyanidins concentration, but the increase of the content of TiO2 nanoparticles had little effect on it. The combination of TiO2 nanoparticles and proanthocyanidins was versatile for oil phases with different polarities, and the resulting emulsion exhibited high stability in the face of centrifugation, heating and prolonging storage time. After encapsulating the UVA filter avobenzone in white oil, the emulsion was endowed with the ability to resist UVB and UVA. Further, the emulsion showed great free radical scavenging ability for superoxide anion radical (⋅O2 - ), hydroxyl radical (⋅OH) with the clearance rate of over 70 %, indicating the good antioxidant activity. The ingenious combination of UVB, UVA filter and antioxidant with emulsion as carrier provides a new idea for the preparation of full-band sunscreen emulsion.

Illuminating the Effect of the Local Environment on the Performance of Organic Sunscreens: Insights From Laser Spectroscopy of Isolated Molecules and Complexes

Sunscreens are essential for protecting the skin from UV radiation, but significant questions remain about the fundamental molecular-level processes by which they operate. In this mini review, we provide an overview of recent advanced laser spectroscopic studies that have probed how the local, chemical environment of an organic sunscreen affects its performance. We highlight experiments where UV laser spectroscopy has been performed on isolated gas-phase sunscreen molecules and complexes. These experiments reveal how pH, alkali metal cation binding, and solvation perturb the geometric and hence electronic structures of sunscreen molecules, and hence their non-radiative decay pathways. A better understanding of how these interactions impact on the performance of individual sunscreens will inform the rational design of future sunscreens and their optimum formulations.

Thermo/glutathione-sensitive release kinetics of heterogeneous magnetic micro-organogel prepared by sono-catalysis

To improve the loading and delivery for hydrophobic drugs and optimize the release efficiency in tumor microenvironment, a novel core-shell magnetic micro-organogel carrier was successfully prepared by a sono-catalysis process in the study. As-synthesized magnetic micro-organogel had an appropriate dispersibility in water owing to the hydrophilicity of protein shell and could be kept steadily with a well-defined spherical morphology owing to the three-dimensional gel structure of oil core, and it promised an accessible targeted drug delivery owing to its good magnetism-mediated motion ability. Moreover, the magnetic micro-organogel showed a high loading efficiency up to 94.22% for coumarin 6 which was dissolved into the micro-organogel as a model hydrophobic drug. More importantly, the release kinetics revealed that the magnetic micro-organogel had a thermo-sensitive and glutathione (GSH)-sensitive ability to control the drug release, and proved that its release mechanisms referred to the combination of erosion, diffusion and degradation.

Catalytic hydrogenolysis of larix bark proanthocyanidins in ionic liquids produces UV blockers with potential for use in cosmetics

The bark of larix, a major tree species in the coniferous forests of China's Greater Khingan Mountains, is typically treated as waste. The bark is, however, rich in flavonoids, known as proanthocyanidins, although their high degree of polymerization and high molecular weight reduce their biological activity and potential applications. Ionic liquids, a new type of “green solvent”, characterized by low vapor pressure and good stability, have been developed and used as new solvents for naturally occurring macromolecules. Here, we used 1-butyl-3-methylimidazole chloride ([BMIM]Cl) as the ionic solvent to reduce the degree of polymerization of larix bark proanthocyanidins by Pd/C-catalyzed hydrogenolysis. The optimal reaction conditions, determined using an orthogonal experimental design, were: reaction temperature, 90 °C; reaction time, 1.5 h; catalyst loading, 4 g L⁻¹ (Pd/C: [BMIM]Cl); and hydrogen pressure, 2.5 MPa. Characterization of the reaction products by UV-Vis and IR spectroscopy and gel permeation chromatographys showed that they retained the proanthocyanidin structure. We showed that whilst both the native and depolymerized proanthocyanidins were able to block UV light when added to commercially available skin creams and sunscreens, the depolymerized proanthocyanidins were more effective at a given concentration. This study expands the applications of a new “green” ionic liquid solvent, provides a technical foundation for the low-cost depolymerization of larix bark proanthocyanidins, and also explores a potential high-value use for waste larix bark as the source of a UV-blocking additive for cosmetics.

Oligomeric proanthocyanidins with excellent UV resistance were prepared by hydrogenolysis in ionic liquids.