A Short-Term Screening Protocol, Using Fibrillin-1 as a Reporter Molecule, for Photoaging Repair Agents

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Fractional carbon dioxide laser versus combined fractional CO2 laser and platelet rich plasma in treatment of facial wrinkles: A comparative split face study

BACKGROUND

Wrinkles are the most visible sign in skin aging and for which many people seek different aesthetic procedures. Treatment options varies from invasive to non-invasive procedures. Combining platelet rich plasma and fractional carbon dioxide laser (CO₂ ) has been used frequently for showing promising results in treating photoaged skin generally and wrinkles specifically since the microscopic thermal zones created by the fractional laser facilitates the delivery of the plasma into the dermis which aids the process of collagen induction and skin rejuvenation.

AIM OF THE WORK

To compare and assess the clinical efficacy of fractional CO₂ laser alone versus combined fractional CO₂ laser and platelet rich plasma in treatment of facial rhytides (in terms of size, depth, and overall appearance).

SUBJECTS AND METHODS

Twenty-six female patients were selected and each face was split into 2 halves a control side (Laser + saline) and an experimental side (Laser + platelet rich plasma). Treatment plan was 1 laser session per month for a total of 4 sessions. Clinical objective evaluation was done by the Antera camera in addition to assessment by two blinded dermatologists.

RESULTS

The combined treatment was as effective in improving wrinkles as fractional CO₂ laser alone. Antera camera scores showed statistical significance in overall wrinkles measurements on each side equally.

CONCLUSION

Both treatment modalities gave optimum cosmetic results with no significant difference noticed when compared with each other, although overall satisfaction with wrinkles and skin were statistically greater than the initial satisfaction scores.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

The systemic influence of chronic smoking on skin structure and mechanical function

One of the major functions of human skin is to provide protection from the environment. Although we cannot entirely avoid, for example, sun exposure, it is likely that exposure to other environmental factors could affect cutaneous function. A number of studies have identified smoking as one such factor that leads to both facial wrinkle formation and a decline in skin function. In addition to the direct physical effects of tobacco smoke on skin, its inhalation has additional profound systemic effects for the smoker. The adverse effects on the respiratory and cardiovascular systems from smoking are well known. Central to the pathological changes associated with smoking is the elastic fibre, a key component of the extracellular matrices of lungs. In this study we examined the systemic effect of chronic smoking (>40 cigarettes/day; >5 years) on the histology of the cutaneous elastic fibre system, the nanostructure and mechanics of one of its key components, the fibrillin-rich microfibril, and the micromechanical stiffness of the dermis and epidermis. We show that photoprotected skin of chronic smokers exhibits significant remodelling of the elastic fibre network (both elastin and fibrillin-rich microfibrils) as compared to the skin of age- and sex-matched non-smokers. This remodelling is not associated with increased gelatinase activity (as identified by in situ zymography). Histological remodelling is accompanied by significant ultrastructural changes to extracted fibrillin-rich microfibrils. Finally, using scanning acoustic microscopy, we demonstrated that chronic smoking significantly increases the stiffness of both the dermis and the epidermis. Taken together, these data suggest an unappreciated systemic effect of chronic inhalation of tobacco smoke on the cutaneous elastic fibre network. Such changes may in part underlie the skin wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity associated with smoking. © 2020 The Authors. The Journal of Pathology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Pathological Society of Great Britain and Ireland.

Circadian rhythms in skin and other elastic tissues

Circadian rhythms are daily oscillations that, in mammals, are driven by both a master clock, located in the brain, and peripheral clocks in cells and tissues. Approximately 10% of the transcriptome, including extracellular matrix components, is estimated to be under circadian control. Whilst it has been established that certain collagens and extracellular matrix proteases are diurnally regulated (for example in tendon, cartilage and intervertebral disc) the role played by circadian rhythms in mediating elastic fiber homeostasis is poorly understood. Skin, arteries and lungs are dynamic, resilient, elastic fiber-rich organs and tissues. In skin, circadian rhythms influence cell migration and proliferation, wound healing and susceptibility of the tissues to damage (from protease activity, oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation). In the cardiovascular system, blood pressure and heart rate also follow age-dependent circadian rhythms whilst the lungs exhibit diurnal variations in immune response. In order to better understand these processes it will be necessary to characterise diurnal changes in extracellular matrix biology. In particular, given the sensitivity of peripheral clocks to external factors, the timed delivery of interventions (chronotherapy) has the potential to significantly improve the efficacy of treatments designed to repair and regenerate damaged cutaneous, vascular and pulmonary tissues.

Evaluation of tolerability and skin changes after application of topical antiaging products based on Sibanid SG®, plant stem cells and regenerative and biostimulating active ingredients

BACKGROUND

The oxidative stress, the UV radiations, the matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and the hyaluronidase enzyme play an extremly important role in skin aging processes, leading an increasing production of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase that brings to degradation of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid respectively. They are responsible to provide strength, elasticity and moisture to the skin. Innovative devices were developed based on the effective ingredients against hyaluronidase and MMP. The inhibition of the destructuring enzymes of the dermis is the main mechanism of action of Bioliftan treatment, and this process is mainly addressed to hyaluronidase and MMP inhibition. The aim of our study was to evaluate the efficacy, tolerability and skin changes induced by antiaging topical based on Sibanid SG®, plant stem cells and regenerative and biostimulating active ingredients. The products tested are Bioliftan Day cream and Bioliftan concentrate.

METHODS

All parameters were evaluated before the beginning of treatment (T0), and 60 (T1) days later. The evaluation of the effectiveness of the products was performed by clinical examination, photographic and instrumental documentation by corneometry, X-rite, elastometry, Moisture Meter EpiD, Confocal microscopy.

RESULTS

The products tested after 60 days have induced an increase of hydration of the external cutaneous layers (P<0.0001), skin hydration (P<0.0001), skin brightness (P<0.01), skin elasticity (P<0.0001). All results were statistically significant. All volunteers completed the study. No patients reported side-effects. All results were confirmed by confocal microscopy.

CONCLUSIONS

Our study evaluated efficacy, tolerability and skin changes after 60 days of Bioliftan day cream and Bioliftan serum concentrate application on the skin aged. Our study has shown an excellent skin tollerance of the products tested.

Thyroid Hormones Enhance Mitochondrial Function in Human Epidermis

Since it is unknown whether thyroid hormones (THs) regulate mitochondrial function in human epidermis, we treated organ-cultured human skin, or isolated cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, with triiodothyronine (100 pmol/L) or thyroxine (100 nmol/L). Both THs significantly increased protein expression of the mitochondrially encoded cytochrome C oxidase I (MTCO1), complex I activity, and the number of perinuclear mitochondria. Triiodothyronine also increased mitochondrial transcription factor A (TFAM) protein expression, and thyroxine stimulated complex II/IV activity. Increased mitochondrial function can correlate with increased reactive oxygen species production, DNA damage, and accelerated tissue aging. However, THs neither raised reactive oxygen species production or matrix metalloproteinase-1, -2 and -9 activity nor decreased sirtuin1 (Sirt1) immunoreactivity. Instead, triiodothyronine increased sirtuin-1, fibrillin-1, proliferator-activated receptor-gamma 1-alpha (PGC1α), collagen I and III transcription, and thyroxine decreased cyclin-dependent kinase inhibitor 2A (p16(ink4)) expression in organ-cultured human skin. Moreover, TH treatment increased intracutaneous fibrillin-rich microfibril and collagen III deposition and decreased mammalian target of rapamycin (mTORC1/2) expression ex vivo. This identifies THs as potent endocrine stimulators of mitochondrial function in human epidermis, which down-regulates rather than enhance the expression of skin aging-related biomarkers ex vivo. Therefore, topically applied THs deserve further exploration as candidate agents for treating skin conditions characterized by reduced mitochondrial function.

Introduction to skin aging

Cutaneous science has seen considerable development in the last 25 years, in part due to the Omics revolution, and the appreciation that this organ is hardwired into the body's key neuro-immuno-endocrine axes. Moreover, there is greater appreciation of how stratification of skin disorders will permit more targeted and more effective treatments. Against this has been how the remarkable extension in the average human life-span, though in the West at least, this parallels worrying increases in lifestyle-associated conditions like diabetes, skin cancer etc. These demographic trends bring greater urgency to finding clinical solutions for numerous age-related deficits in skin function caused by extrinsic and intrinsic factors. Mechanisms for aging skin include the actions of reactive oxygen species (ROS), mtDNA mutations, and telomere shortening, as well as hormonal changes. We have also significantly improved our understanding of how to harness the skin's considerable regenerative capacity e.g., via its remarkable investment of stem cell subpopulations. In this way we hope to develop new strategies to selectively target the skin's capacity to undergo optimal wound repair and regeneration. Here, the unsung hero of the skin regenerative power may be the humble hair follicle, replete with its compliment of epithelial, mesenchymal, neural and other stem cells. This review introduces the topic of human skin aging, with a focus on how maintenance of function in this complex multi-cell type organ is key for retaining quality of life into old age.

Recovery of extracellular matrix components by enalapril maleate during the repair process of ultraviolet B-induced wrinkles in mouse skin

The renin–angiotensin system is known to be involved in skin remodeling and inflammation. Previously, we reported that ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation enhanced angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE) expression and angiotensin II levels in hairless mouse skin, and an ACE inhibitor, enalapril maleate (EM), accelerated repair of UVB-induced wrinkles. In this study, we analyzed gene expression profiles by DNA microarray and protein distribution patterns using an immunofluorescence method to clarify the process of EM-accelerated wrinkle repair in UVB-irradiated hairless mouse skin. In the microarray analysis, we detected EM-induced up-regulation of various extracellular matrix (ECM)-related genes in the UVB-irradiated skin. In the immunofluorescence, we confirmed that type I collagen α1 chain, fibrillin 1, elastin and dystroglycan 1 in the skin decreased after repeated UVB irradiation but staining for these proteins was improved by EM treatment. In addition, ADAMTS2 and MMP-14 also increased in the EM-treated skin. Although the relationship between these molecules and wrinkle formation is not clear yet, our present data suggest that the molecules are involved in the repair of UVB-induced wrinkles.

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Effects of an ACE inhibitor enalapril maleate (EM) on skin were examined.

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Extracellular matrix (ECM) expression decreased in UVB-irradiated mouse skin.

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EM up-regulated ECM gene expression in the UVB-irradiated skin.

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EM accelerated recovery of ECM protein localization in the UVB-irradiated skin.

An abnormality in glucocorticoid receptor expression differentiates steroid responders from nonresponders in keloid disease

Background

Glucocorticoids (GCs) are first‐line treatment for keloid disease (KD) but are limited by high incidence of resistance, recurrence and undesirable side‐effects. Identifying patient responsiveness early could guide therapy.

Methods

Nineteen patients with KD were recruited at week 0 (before treatment) and received intralesional steroids. At weeks 0, 2 and 4, noninvasive imaging and biopsies were performed. Responsiveness was determined by clinical response and a significant reduction in vascular perfusion following steroid treatment, using full‐field laser perfusion imaging (FLPI). Responsiveness was also evaluated using (i) spectrophotometric intracutaneous analysis to quantify changes in collagen and melanin and (ii) histology to identify changes in epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) expression. Biopsies were used to quantify changes in glucocorticoid receptor (GR) expression using quantitative reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction, immunoblotting and immunohistochemistry.

Results

At week 2, the FLPI was used to separate patients into steroid responsive (n = 12) and nonresponsive groups (n = 7). All patients demonstrated a significant decrease in GAG at week 2 (P < 0·05). At week 4, responsive patients exhibited significant reduction in melanin, GAG, epidermal thickness (all P < 0·05) and a continued reduction in perfusion (P < 0·001) compared with nonresponders. Steroid‐responsive patients had increased GR expression at baseline and showed autoregulation of GR compared with nonresponders, who showed no change in GR transcription or protein.

Conclusions

This is the first demonstration that keloid response to steroids can be measured objectively using noninvasive imaging. FLPI is a potentially reliable tool to stratify KD responsiveness. Altered GR expression may be the mechanism gating therapeutic response.

What's already known about this topic?

Steroids are used as first‐line treatment for keloid disease, but response is variable with apparent steroid responders and nonresponders.

It remains unclear whether steroid responsiveness is due to an intrinsic difference in the mechanism of the glucocorticoid receptor (GR) action or reduced sensitivity to the steroid itself.

What does this study add?

We show for the first time the utility of noninvasive imaging techniques in stratifying steroid responsiveness in patients treated with steroids.

GR expression increased significantly in keloid tissue. Increased GR expression also correlated with an increased response to steroid treatment.

Steroid responders show a significant decrease in GR transcript and protein 2 weeks after steroid treatment (P < 0·05), which was not evident in steroid‐resistant patients.

A new wrinkle on old skin: the role of elastic fibres in skin ageing

Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in the absence of additional biological, chemical and physical factors. The clinical features of intrinsically aged skin are not usually evident until old age when, although smooth and unblemished, the skin surface appears pale and is characterized by fine wrinkles with occasional exaggerated expression lines. Functionally, intrinsically aged skin is dry and less elastic than more youthful skin. In contrast, extrinsically aged skin is exemplified by deep, coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation and a marked loss of elasticity and recoil. The two major environmental influences which induce extrinsic ageing are: (i) chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation (termed photoageing) and (ii) smoking. This review discusses the changes associated with the ageing process in the skin, with particular emphasis on the role played by the elastic fibre network in maintaining dermal function. The review concludes with a discussion of a short-term assay for independent assessment of the efficacy of anti-ageing cosmetic products using the elastic fibre component fibrillin-1 as a biomarker of extracellular matrix repair.

A potential role for endogenous proteins as sacrificial sunscreens and antioxidants in human tissues

Excessive ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure of the skin is associated with adverse clinical outcomes. Although both exogenous sunscreens and endogenous tissue components (including melanins and tryptophan-derived compounds) reduce UVR penetration, the role of endogenous proteins in absorbing environmental UV wavelengths is poorly defined. Having previously demonstrated that proteins which are rich in UVR-absorbing amino acid residues are readily degraded by broadband UVB-radiation (containing UVA, UVB and UVC wavelengths) here we hypothesised that UV chromophore (Cys, Trp and Tyr) content can predict the susceptibility of structural proteins in skin and the eye to damage by physiologically relevant doses (up to 15.4 J/cm²) of solar UVR (95% UVA, 5% UVB). We show that: i) purified suspensions of UV-chromophore-rich fibronectin dimers, fibrillin microfibrils and β- and γ-lens crystallins undergo solar simulated radiation (SSR)-induced aggregation and/or decomposition and ii) exposure to identical doses of SSR has minimal effect on the size or ultrastructure of UV chromophore-poor tropoelastin, collagen I, collagen VI microfibrils and α-crystallin. If UV chromophore content is a factor in determining protein stability in vivo, we would expect that the tissue distribution of Cys, Trp and Tyr-rich proteins would correlate with regional UVR exposure. From bioinformatic analysis of 244 key structural proteins we identified several biochemically distinct, yet UV chromophore-rich, protein families. The majority of these putative UV-absorbing proteins (including the late cornified envelope proteins, keratin associated proteins, elastic fibre-associated components and β- and γ-crystallins) are localised and/or particularly abundant in tissues that are exposed to the highest doses of environmental UVR, specifically the stratum corneum, hair, papillary dermis and lens. We therefore propose that UV chromophore-rich proteins are localised in regions of high UVR exposure as a consequence of an evolutionary pressure to express sacrificial protein sunscreens which reduce UVR penetration and hence mitigate tissue damage.

Major structural proteins such as collagen I and tropoelastin are UVA-resistant.

In contrast, proteins which are rich in Cys, Trp and Tyr residues are UV-susceptible.

These proteins are concentrated in UV exposed tissues.

UV-chromophore (Cys, Trp, Tyr)-rich proteins may act as endogenous sunscreens.

Cell Autonomous and Non-Autonomous Effects of Senescent Cells in the Skin

Human and mouse skin accumulate senescent cells in both the epidermis and dermis during aging. When chronically present, senescent cells are thought to enhance the age-dependent deterioration of the skin during extrinsic and intrinsic aging. However, when transiently present, senescent cells promote optimal wound healing. Here, we review recent studies on how senescent cells and the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) contribute to different physiological and pathophysiological conditions in the skin with a focus on some of the cell autonomous and non-autonomous functions of senescent cells in the context of skin aging and wound healing.

Damage to skin extracellular matrix induced by UV exposure

SIGNIFICANCE

Chronic exposure to environmental ultraviolet radiation (UVR) plays a key role in both photocarcinogenesis and induction of accelerated skin aging. Although the spatiotemporal consequences of UVR exposure for the composition and architecture of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) are well characterized, the pathogenesis of photoaging remains poorly defined. Given the compelling evidence for the role of reactive oxygen species (ROS) as mediators of photoaging, UVR-exposed human skin may be an accessible model system in which to characterize the role of oxidative damage in both internal and external tissues.

RECENT ADVANCES

Although the cell-mediated degradation of dermal components via UVR-induced expression of ECM proteases has long been identified as an integral part of the photoaging pathway, the relative importance and identity of cellular and extracellular photosensitizers (direct hit and bystanders models, respectively) in initiating this enzymatic activity is unclear. Recently, both age-related protein glycation and relative amino-acid composition have been identified as potential risk factors for photo-ionization and/or photo-sensitization. Here, we propose a selective multi-hit model of photoaging.

CRITICAL ISSUES

Bioinformatic analyses can be employed to identify candidate UVR targets/photosensitizers, but the action of UVR on protein structure and/or ROS production should be verified experimentally. Crucially, in the case of biochemically active ECM components such as fibronectin and fibrillin, the downstream effects of photo-degradation on tissue homeostasis remain to be confirmed.

FUTURE DIRECTIONS

Both topical antioxidants and inhibitors of detrimental cell signaling may be effective in abrogating the effects of specific UVR-mediated protein degradation in the dermis.

Skin health in older age

As people age, their skin undergoes changes which result in reduced elasticity, increased fragility and an altered immune response; in essence it becomes frail. As life expectancy is increasing the health of older skin is becoming a progressively more important facet of overall care. In addition to the consequences of ageing for otherwise healthy skin, the relative incidence of some dermatological conditions is age-dependent. In particular, xerosis (dry skin), cutaneous malignancies and skin injuries are more common in older people. In this review we describe the functional consequences of skin ageing and discuss the current evidence on how skin health may be maintained and dermatological conditions prevented in an ageing population. The future of dermatological health-care provision in the older population relies on the development of coordinated pathways of care, which start from a young age. Better quality research coordinated by the establishment of institutions dealing with skin health and ageing would be a method of addressing these needs.

Beneficial Regulation of Elastase Activity and Expression of Tissue Inhibitors of Matrixmetalloproteinases, Fibrillin, Transforming Growth Factor-β, and Heat Shock Proteins by P. leucotomos in Nonirradiated or Ultraviolet-Radiated Epidermal Keratinocytes

There is loss of the structural integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) with intrinsic aging as well as photoaging, largely due to reactive oxygen species (ROS). The structural ECM proteins include the microfibrils that are composed of fibrillin. The structural ECM proteins are primarily degraded by the matrixmetalloproteinases (MMPs) and elastase enzymes. The MMPs are inhibited by the tissue inhibitors of MMPs (TIMPs). A primary regulator of the ECM proteins is transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β), and the chaperone proteins important for its formation are the heat shock proteins (HSP). P. leucotomos extract beneficially regulates of MMPs, TIMPs, and TGF-β in nonirradiated or ultraviolet (UV) radiated fibroblasts and melanoma cells. The hypothesis of this research was that the antioxidant activity or chemistry of P. leucotomos extract would also directly inhibit elastase activity, stimulate the cellular expression of TIMPs, fibrillins, and TGF-β, and regulate HSPs in nonirradiated and UVA or UVB radiated epidermal keratinocytes. P. leucotomos directly inhibited elastase activity, stimulated the cellular expression of TIMPs, fibrillins, and TGF-β, and differentially regulated HSPs in nonirradiated and UVA or UVB radiated epidermal keratinocytes. We infer that the P. leucotomos extract strengthens the ECM and is effective in the prevention or treatment of intrinsic and photoaging of skin.

In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing

BACKGROUND

LR2412, a synthetic derivative of jasmonic acid, improved the reconstruction and homeostasis of our organotypic skin models.

OBJECTIVES

The need for efficient 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photoaged skin, prompted us to investigate this new ingredient for its potential to correct signs of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo and to identify its mode of action.

RESULTS

In vitro, penetration of LR2412 was evaluated using a Franz diffusion cell on excised human skin. Its exfoliating properties and interactions with the stratum corneum were studied using electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Experiments were performed on a human reconstructed skin model. In vivo, the effects of LR2412 on steroid-induced skin atrophy, a clinical skin ageing model, were assessed vs. vehicle. A patch test study evaluated its effect on deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis in clinically photoaged volunteers. A clinical study on the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles was conducted over 3 months of daily application. Penetration studies revealed that LR2412 reaches viable epidermis and superficial dermis, which are skin targets of anti-ageing actives. Within the upper layers of the stratum corneum LR2412 accelerates desquamation and improves the mechanical properties. At the dermal-epidermal junction of reconstructed skin, collagen IV, laminin-5 and fibrillin were stimulated. In vivo, LR2412 reversed steroid-induced atrophy. The patch test model confirms the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils, then an in use clinical study revealed that it reduced facial wrinkles.

CONCLUSIONS

The in vitro and in vivo data demonstrate that based on its multiple interactions within human skin, LR2412 has potential to partially correct the signs of ageing in intrinsically and photoaged skin.

Skin anti-aging strategies

Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of endogenous or intrinsic and exogenous or extrinsic factors. Because of the fact that skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors representing overall "well-being" and the perception of "health" in humans, several anti-aging strategies have been developed during the last years. It is the intention of this article to review the most important anti-aging strategies that dermatologists have nowadays in hand, including including preventive measurements, cosmetological strategies, topical and systemic therapeutic agents and invasive procedures.

Chemical consequences of cutaneous photoageing

Human skin, in common with other organs, ages as a consequence of the passage of time, but in areas exposed to solar ultraviolet radiation, the effects of this intrinsic ageing process are exacerbated. In particular, both the severity and speed of onset of age-related changes, such as wrinkle formation and loss of elasticity, are enhanced in photoaged (also termed extrinsically aged) as compared with aged, photoprotected, skin. The anatomy of skin is characterised by two major layers: an outer, avascular, yet highly cellular and dynamic epidermis and an underlying vascularised, comparatively static and cell-poor, dermis. The structural consequences of photoageing are mainly evident in the extracellular matrix-rich but cell-poor dermis where key extracellular matrix proteins are particularly susceptible to photodamage. Most investigations to date have concentrated on the cell as both a target for and mediator of, ultraviolet radiation-induced photoageing. As the main effectors of dermal remodelling produced by cells (extracellular proteases) generally have low substrate specificity, we recently suggested that the differential susceptibility of key extracellular matrix proteins to the processes of photoageing may be due to direct, as opposed to cell-mediated, photodamage.

In this review, we discuss the experimental evidence for ultraviolet radiation (and related reactive oxygen species)-mediated differential degradation of normally long lived dermal proteins including the fibrillar collagens, elastic fibre components, glycoproteins and proteoglycans. Whilst these components exhibit highly diverse primary and hence macro- and supra-molecular structures, we present evidence that amino acid composition alone may be a useful predictor of age-related protein degradation in both photoexposed and, as a consequence of differential oxidation sensitivity, photoprotected, tissues.

Curcumin has neuroprotection effect on homocysteine rat model of Parkinson

Parkinson's disease (PD) is a progressive neurological disorder which is emanated by dopaminergic death cell and depletion. Curcumin as a nontoxic matter has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiproliferative activities, and it involves antioxidant property same to vitamins C and E. In this study, we investigated the neuroprotective properties of the natural polyphenolic antioxidant compound, curcumin, against homocysteine (Hcy) neurotoxicity. Curcumin (50 mg/kg) was injected intraperitoneally (i.p.) once daily for a period of 10 days beginning 5 days prior to Hcy (2 μmol/μl) intracerebroventricular (i.c.v.) injection in rats. The studies included immunohistological and locomotor activity tests. These results suggest that homocysteine intracerebroventricular administration (2 μmol/μl i.c.v.) may induce changes in rat brain, and subsequently, polyphenol treatment curcumin 50 mg/kg (i.p.) was capable in improving locomotor function in insulted animal by protecting the nervous system against homocysteine toxicity.

Molecular aspects of skin ageing

Ageing of human skin may result from both the passage of time (intrinsic ageing) and from cumulative exposure to external influences (extrinsic ageing) such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR) which promote wrinkle formation and loss of tissue elasticity. Whilst both ageing processes are associated with phenotypic changes in cutaneous cells, the major functional manifestations of ageing occur as a consequence of structural and compositional remodeling of normally long-lived dermal extracellular matrix proteins. This review briefly considers the effects of ageing on dermal collagens and proteoglycans before focusing on the mechanisms, functional consequences and treatment of elastic fibre remodeling in ageing skin. The early stages of photoageing are characterised by the differential degradation of elastic fibre proteins and whilst the activity of extracellular matrix proteases is increased in photoexposed skin, the substrate specificity of these enzymes is low. We have recently shown however, that isolated fibrillin microfibrils are susceptible to direct degradation by physiologically attainable doses of UV-B radiation and that elastic fibre proteins as a group are highly enriched in UV-absorbing amino acid residues. Functionally, elastic fibre remodeling events may adversely impact on: the mechanical properties of tissues, the recruitment and activation of immune cells, the expression of matrix metalloproteinases and cytokine signaling (by perturbing fibrillin microfibril sequestration of TGFβ). Finally, newly developed topical interventions appear to be capable of regenerating elements of the elastic fibre system in ageing skin, whilst systemic treatments may potentially prevent the pathological tissue remodeling events which occur in response to elastic fibre degradation.

Liver X receptor β: maintenance of epidermal expression in intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging

Aging in human skin is the composite of time-dependent intrinsic aging plus photoaging induced by chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Nuclear hormone receptors coordinate diverse processes including metabolic homeostasis. Liver X receptor β (LXRβ) is a close human homologue of daf-12, a regulator of nematode longevity. LXRβ is positively regulated by sirtuin-1 and resveratrol, while LXRβ-null mice show transcriptional profiles similar to those seen in aged human skin. In these studies, we examined LXRβ expression in aged and photoaged human skin. Volunteers were recruited to assess intrinsic aging and photoaging. Epidermal LXRβ mRNA was examined by in situ hybridization while protein was identified by immunofluorescence. No significant changes were observed in either LXRβ mRNA or protein expression between young and aged volunteers (mRNA p = 0.90; protein p = 0.26). Similarly, LXRβ protein expression was unaltered in photoaged skin (p = 0.75). Our data therefore suggest that, while not playing a major role in skin aging, robust cutaneous expression implies a fundamental role for LXRβ in epidermal biology.

Tissue elasticity and the ageing elastic fibre

The ability of elastic tissues to deform under physiological forces and to subsequently release stored energy to drive passive recoil is vital to the function of many dynamic tissues. Within vertebrates, elastic fibres allow arteries and lungs to expand and contract, thus controlling variations in blood pressure and returning the pulmonary system to a resting state. Elastic fibres are composite structures composed of a cross-linked elastin core and an outer layer of fibrillin microfibrils. These two components perform distinct roles; elastin stores energy and drives passive recoil, whilst fibrillin microfibrils direct elastogenesis, mediate cell signalling, maintain tissue homeostasis via TGFβ sequestration and potentially act to reinforce the elastic fibre. In many tissues reduced elasticity, as a result of compromised elastic fibre function, becomes increasingly prevalent with age and contributes significantly to the burden of human morbidity and mortality. This review considers how the unique molecular structure, tissue distribution and longevity of elastic fibres pre-disposes these abundant extracellular matrix structures to the accumulation of damage in ageing dermal, pulmonary and vascular tissues. As compromised elasticity is a common feature of ageing dynamic tissues, the development of strategies to prevent, limit or reverse this loss of function will play a key role in reducing age-related morbidity and mortality.

Effects of a cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product improves photoaged skin [corrected]

Background

Very few over-the-counter cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ products have been subjected to a rigorous double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of efficacy. Previously we have shown that application of a cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product to photoaged skin under occlusion for 12 days can stimulate the deposition of fibrillin-1. This observation infers potential to repair and perhaps clinically improve photoaged skin.

Objective

We examined another similar over-the-counter cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product using both the patch test assay and a 6-month double-blind, randomized controlled trial (RCT), with a further 6-month open phase to assess clinical efficacy in photoaged skin.

Methods

For the patch test, a commercially available test product and its vehicle were applied occluded for 12 days to photoaged forearm skin (n=10) prior to biopsy and immunohistochemical assessment of fibrillin-1; all-trans retinoic acid (RA) was used as a positive control. Sixty photoaged subjects were recruited to the RCT (test product, n = 30 vs. vehicle, n = 30; once daily for 6 months, face and hands) with clinical assessments performed at recruitment and following 1, 3 and 6 months of use. Twenty-eight volunteers had skin biopsies (dorsal wrist) at baseline and at 6 months treatment for immunohistochemical assessment of fibrillin-1 (test product, n=15; vehicle, n=13). All volunteers received the test product for a further 6 months. Final clinical assessments were performed at the end of this open period.

Results

In the 12-day patch test assay, we observed significant immunohistological deposition of fibrillin-1 in skin treated with the test product and RA compared with the untreated baseline (P=0·005 and 0·015, respectively). In the clinical RCT, at 6 months, the test product produced statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles as compared to baseline assessment (P = 0·013), whereas vehicle-treated skin was not significantly improved (P = 0·11). After 12 months, there was a significant benefit of the test product over that projected for the vehicle (70% vs. 33% of subjects improving; combined Wilcoxon rank tests, P=0·026). There was significant deposition of fibrillin-1 in skin treated for 6 months with the test product [(mean ± SE) vehicle 1·84 ± 0·23; test product 2·57 ± 0·19; ancovaP=0·019).

Conclusions

In a double-blind RCT, an over-the-counter cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product resulted in significant clinical improvement in facial wrinkles, which was associated with fibrillin-1 deposition in treated skin. This study demonstrates that a cosmetic product can produce significant improvement in the appearance of wrinkles and further supports the use of fibrillin-1 as a robust biomarker for the repair of photoaged dermis.

Loss of elastic fibers causes skin wrinkles in sun-damaged human skin

BACKGROUND

Although wrinkling is the most obvious sign of aged skin, the detailed pathomechanism of wrinkle development has not been elucidated.

OBJECTIVES

In this study, we investigated the role of elastic fibers in the formation of skin wrinkles.

METHODS

Loss of elastic fibers was measured quantitatively in the facial skins of subjects representing seven decades, and then compared with wrinkle severities. We also investigated whether topical retinoic acid treatment to photoaged human skin can restore destroyed elastic fiber, and the correlation between wrinkle improvement with increase in elastic fibers in RA-treated facial skin.

RESULTS

We found a significant correlation between decreases in the length, width, number and total area of oxytalan fibers and wrinkle severity. Furthermore, we found that topical application of retinoic acid (0.025%) to chronically photodamaged skin regenerated and restored elastic fibers, and that there was a significant positive correlation between the amount of newly regenerated elastic fiber and the wrinkle improvement caused by retinoic acid.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results provide an objective insight into the role of elastic fibers in skin wrinkle formation by providing a quantitative correlation between changes in oxytalan fibers and the severity of skin wrinkling.

The use of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging

Photoaging describes the clinical and histologic consequences of chronic sun exposure, the key features of which--wrinkles and mottled hyperpigmentation--are frequently and erroneously attributed to the aging process. Although a number of surgical procedures can improve the clinical appearance of photoaged skin, the only medical therapy with proved benefit derived from randomized clinical trial evidence is the use of topical retinoids, particularly tretinoin, isotretinoin, and tazarotene. Retinoids are capable not only of repairing photoaged skin at both the clinical and biochemical levels but their use may prevent photoaging. There is in addition emerging evidence that topical retinoids could be beneficial in the treatment of intrinsically aged skin.

Pathogenic aspects of cutaneous photoaging

Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet irradiation can result in wrinkle formation in many individuals. Wrinkling appears to be the conclusion of mechanisms that result in decreased synthesis of extracellular matrix molecules within the dermis, accompanied by increased remodeling of the matrix by specific endopeptidases (matrix metalloproteinases) and proteases (originating from infiltrating cells of the immune system). In this review, we discuss the changes that occur in the extracellular matrix of photoaged skin and the mechanisms by which they are modulated.

Mid-dermal elastolysis: a clinical, histologic, and immunohistochemical study of 11 patients

BACKGROUND

Mid-dermal elastolysis is a rare entity defined by the selective loss of elastic tissue in the mid dermis. Many cases appear induced or aggravated by ultraviolet (UV) light exposure. Pathogenesis is still uncertain.

OBJECTIVE

Our purpose was to report on the clinical and histologic features of 11 patients with mid-dermal elastolysis. Moreover, we analyzed by immunohistochemistry leukocyte subsets and expression of metalloproteinase (MMP) with the potential to degrade elastic tissue in 7 cases.

RESULTS

All patients were women with a mean age of 31.4 years. Disease duration ranged from 4 months to 17 years. Affected areas included the trunk, neck, and upper aspect of limbs. Two patients also had Hashimoto's thyroiditis and uterine carcinoma, respectively, whereas 1 patient had undergone silicone mammoplasty. In all patients, disease onset was associated with intense UV light exposure. Moderate leukocyte infiltration in the dermis was observed mostly in recent lesions and was composed of CD3(+) T cells and some CD68(+) macrophages with a normal number of factor XIIIa(+) dermal dendritic cells. Elastin, but not fibrillin-1 immunoreactivity disappeared from the mid dermis. MMP-9 was detected in epidermal keratinocytes and in the cytoplasm of large, angulated, multinucleated cells located in lesional dermis. These cells were negative for leukocyte, dendritic cell, macrophage, and T-cell markers and were absent in old lesions. Staining for MMP-7 and MMP-12 did not differ from control skin.

CONCLUSION

Onset of mid-dermal elastolysis appears strongly associated with UV exposure, which may induce fibroblast-like cells to express MMP-9 that in turn could be involved in the degradation of elastic fibers.

Rejuvenation of photoaged skin: 5 years results with intense pulsed light of the face, neck, and chest

BACKGROUND

Photorejuvenation involves the use of lasers or light sources to reverse signs of photoaging. Multiple devices have been shown to be effective over the short-term.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the long-term clinical results on the face, neck and chest at 4 years using filtered flashlamp intense pulsed light (IPL) for treatment of photoaging changes of telangiectasias, dyspigmentation, and rough skin texture.

METHODS

A chart review of 80 randomly selected patients with skin types I-IV who were treated by IPL during 1996 and 1997 was performed. Photos and patient self-assessment were graded for features of textural smoothness, telangiectasia severity, and blotchy pigmentation into four categories of worse, no change, slightly better (less than 50% improvement) and much better (greater than 50% improvement).

RESULTS

At 4 years following initial treatment, skin textural improvement was noted in 83% of the subjects. Telangiectasias were improved in 82% of subjects, while pigmentation remained improved in 79%. The median number of treatments was 3. The face responded slightly better than the chest or neck. Most common side-effects included temporary mild crusting (19%), erythema (15%) and purpura (6%).

CONCLUSION

Signs of photoaging including telangiectasias and mottled pigmentation of the face, neck, and chest, can be improved by IPL with a long-lasting result. Minimal or no downtime with minimal adverse effects can be achieved with the settings reported. Skin textural smoothing, although not easily quantified, is an additional benefit observed long-term.

Molecular mechanisms of skin ageing

Cutaneous ageing is a complex biological phenomenon consisting of two components; intrinsic ageing, which is largely genetically determined and extrinsic ageing caused by environmental exposure, primarily UV light. In sun-exposed areas, these two processes are superimposed. The process of intrinsic skin ageing resembles that seen in most internal organs and is thought to involve decreased proliferative capacity leading to cellular senescence, and altered biosynthetic activity of skin derived cells. Extrinsic ageing, more commonly termed photoageing, also involves changes in cellular biosynthetic activity but leads to gross disorganisation of the dermal matrix. The molecular mechanisms underlying some of these changes are now beginning to be unravelled and are discussed. As these mechanisms are identified, further insights into the underlying processes of skin ageing should emerge and better strategies to prevent the undesirable effects of age on skin appearance should follow.

The role of retinoids in the prevention and repair of aged and photoaged skin

Retinoids, either naturally occurring or synthetic, are defined by their ability to bind nuclear retinoid receptors of the steroid/thyroid superfamily. Their protean but key function in physiology is control of cellular proliferation and differentiation. Topical retinoids, namely tretinoin, have been proven to prevent and repair clinical features of photoageing; these processes are facilitated by an ability to prevent loss of collagen from, and stimulate new collagen formation in, the papillary dermis of sun-exposed skin. Emerging evidence indicates that intrinsic, chronological ageing of the skin shares several mechanistic features with photoageing. Indeed aged skin is characterized by retinoid sensitivity and is probably reparable by application of topical retinoids.