Physical Stability and the Droplet Distribution of Rice Oil–in–Water Emulsion

A comparison between silicone free and silicone-based emulsions: technological features and in vivo evaluation

Objective

Nowadays, the use of silicones in cosmetic formulation is still controversial, given that “natural” or “biodegradable” components are preferred. Often, the exclusion and/or the discrimination of these excipients from cosmetic field are unmotivated because all things cannot be painted with the same brush. Hence, we want to bring to light and underline the advantages of including silicones in cosmetic emulsions, refuting and debunking some myths related to their use.

Methods

Silicone‐free and silicone‐based emulsions were obtained within an easy homogenization process. Droplet size distribution was assessed by laser diffraction particle size analyser Mastersizer 2000™, and by optical microscopy. The long‐time stability profiles were investigated thanks to the optical analyser Turbiscan® Lab Expert. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) by Rheolaser Master™ and frequency sweep measurements by Kinexus® Pro Rotational Rheometer were carried out to assess a full rheological characterization. In vivo studies were carried out by the evaluation of Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) over time on healthy human volunteers. A skin feeling rating was collected from the same volunteers by questionnaire.

Results

From size distribution analysis, a better coherence of data appeared for silicone‐based emulsion, as the size of the droplets was kept unchanged after 1 month, as well as the uniformity parameter. Morphological investigation confirmed a homogenous droplet distribution for both samples. Silicones enhanced the viscosity, compactness and strength of the cream, providing a suitable stability profile both at room temperature and when heated at 40°C. The solid‐like viscoelastic behaviour was assessed in the presence of dynamic oscillatory stresses. The monitoring of TEWL over time demonstrated non‐occlusive properties of emulsions containing silicones, the values of which were comparable to the negative control. Silicone‐based emulsions gained higher scores from the volunteers in silkiness, freshness and softness features, while lower scores were obtained in greasiness compared to silicone‐free emulsions. No cases of irritation were recorded by the candidates.

Conclusion

The presence of specific silicones inside a cosmetic product improved its technological characteristics. The rheological identity and the stability feature showed the real suitability of prepared emulsion as a cosmetic product. Moreover, this study demonstrated that silicone‐based emulsions are safe for the skin and did not cause skin occlusion. Improved skin sensations are registered by potential consumers when silicones are included in the formulation.

Novel Water-in-Oil Emulsions for Co-Loading Sialic Acid and Chitosan: Formulation, Characterization, and Stability Evaluation

This study was designed to co-load sialic acid (SA) and chitosan in a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion and investigated its characterization and stability. Emulsions were prepared using two different oils (olive oil and maize oil) and polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR) alone or in combination with lecithin (LE) as emulsifiers. The results revealed that the aqueous phase of 5% (w/v) SA and 2% (w/v) chitosan could form a stable complex and make the aqueous phase into a transparent colloidal state. Increasing the concentration of PGPR and LE presented different effects on emulsion formation between olive oil-base and maize oil-base. Two stable W/O emulsions that were olive oil-based with 1.5% (w/v) PGPR+ 0.5% (w/v) LE and maize oil-based with 2% (w/v) PGPR+ 0% (w/v) LE were obtained. Initial droplet size distribution curves of the two stable emulsions displayed unimodal distribution, and the rheological curves displayed the characteristics of shear thinning and low static shear viscosity. Moreover, the storage stability showed that there was no significant change in droplet size distribution and Sauter mean diameter of the emulsions at room temperature (25 °C) for 30 days. These results indicated that the W/O emulsions could effectively co-load and protect sialic acid and chitosan and thus could be a novel method for increasing the stability of these water-soluble bioactive compounds.