Ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability, in vitro release, and permeation using a rapid, inexpensive, and simple method

Biosynthesis of Novel Ascorbic Acid Esters and Their Encapsulation in Lignin Nanoparticles as Carriers and Stabilizing Systems

A dual-target strategy was designed for the application of lignin nanoparticles in the lipase mediated biosynthesis of novel 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbyl-6-ferulate and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate and in their successive solvent-shift encapsulation in order to improve stability and antioxidant activity against temperature and pH-dependent degradation. The loaded lignin nanoparticles were fully characterized in terms of kinetic release, radical scavenging activity and stability under pH 3 and thermal stress (60 °C), showing improved antioxidant activity and high efficacy in the protection of ascorbic acid esters from degradation.

Preclinical studies indicate that INFLATIV, an herbal medicine cream containing Pereskia aculeata, presents potential to be marketed as a topical anti-inflammatory agent and as adjuvant in psoriasis therapy

OBJECTIVES

A previous study reported that the hexane fraction (HF) obtained from Pereskia aculeata leaves showed promising topical anti-inflammatory activity. Intending its future use in clinical practice, a herbal medicine cream named INFLATIV was developed. Its anti-inflammatory and antipsoriatic potential were investigated. INFLATIV was subjected to preliminary accelerated stability tests and to a degradation profile assessment.

METHODS

INFLATIV was prepared at 6% and 12%. The anti-inflammatory activity was assessed by croton oil single and multiple application challenge in mice. Mouse tail test was used for antipsoriatic potential investigation. Cutaneous atrophy test was performed. Preliminary accelerated stability tests were performed together with a degradation profile by GC-MS analysis.

KEY FINDINGS

The anti-inflammatory activity shown by INFLATIV was comparable to dexamethasone. However, the skin atrophy caused by that drug was not observed. INFLATIV modified skin parakeratotic differentiation into orthokeratosis, which revealed its antipsoriatic potential. The ingredients used were suitable to carry the bioactives as they were well permeated by the skin. The preliminary accelerated stability tests indicated that INFLATIV 6% is more stable than 12%.

CONCLUSIONS

The results demonstrated the relevant therapeutic and marketing potentials of INFLATIV, which is likely to be further evaluated in clinical trials for drug registration process with regulatory agencies.