Instrumental, clinical and subjective evaluation of the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment for home use

Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence

Skin aging goes beyond a chronological process and also results from extrinsic factors referred to as the exposome. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years old. While many studies of HA concern topical use, few literature reviews only address the use of topical HA in dermatology. This review describes the different characteristics of HA-containing cosmeceuticals, with a focus on skin aging and the impact of exposome factors on HA synthesis and degradation. A review was performed using the terms HA, hyaluronan, topical, dermatology, cosmetic, aging treatment, exposome, and cosmeceuticals. Results are also presented from a recent randomized controlled trial (RCT), which investigated the additional benefit of using a HA epidermic filler (HA-filler serum) combined with Botulinum toxin type A (BoNTA) to treat signs of skin aging. Subjects were randomized to two groups: HA-filler serum starting 24 h after the BoNTA injection then twice daily for 24 weeks, or the control group, which received BoNTA. HA is a key ingredient used in cosmeceuticals for its hydration/antiaging properties (hygroscopic, rheological, and viscoelastic). Several clinical studies indicate that HA is both well tolerated and effective, adjuvant to both post-surgical and facial rejuvenation procedures. In the RCT, one of few studies to combine BoNTA and HA with a 6-month follow-up, the HA-filler serum lengthened the duration of BoNTA's effect in reducing wrinkles. Numerous studies support HA-based cosmeceuticals as a noninvasive, effective solution for improving skin hydration and rejuvenation.

In Vitro and In Vivo Characteristics of Olive Oil as Excipient for Topical Administration

Oily excipients are vital components of dermatological products. In this study, the in vitro and in vivo characteristics of Wild Olive Oil (WOO) were compared with two other types of olive oils: Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) and Virgin Olive Oil (VOO). This work has also included Liquid Paraffin (LP) and Rosehip Oil (RO) as reference oils. Melatonin was used in the study as a model drug to demonstrate the antioxidant capacity of the oils. The melatonin carrier capacity and antioxidant performance was related to the degree of unsaturation of the oils and was highest for RO and WOO and lowest for LP. However, the most stable oil to oxidation was LP. The in vivo performance of the oils in the skin of eight healthy volunteers was investigated with a dermoanalyser. The highest increment of oil and hydration in the skin was obtained with RO. The lowest perception of oiliness was described for WOO, which produced the highest increase in elasticity of the skin area where it was applied. An in vitro-in vivo correlation was therefore performed through multivariable analysis (MVA).

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Antiaging and smoothness-improving properties of farnesol-based facial masks on rat skin exposed to ultraviolet B

BACKGROUND

Farnesol is an acyclic sesquiterpene presents in various natural sources including fruits, vegetables, and herbs. In this study, we successfully prepared a farnesol-containing gel with ultraviolet B-screening and skin-repairing capabilities. Furthermore, the advantageous potential of farnesol-containing facial masks for UVB-caused sunburnt skin was evaluated.

AIMS

Thus, the objectives of this study are to design and prepare optimal facial masks possessing collagen production and smoothness-enhancing capabilities for the skin.

METHODS

A series of formulations consisting of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hyaluronan, and farnesol were used to prepare the facial masks. The effects of the facial masks on collagen production by skin fibroblasts in vitro were examined. The effects of the prepared masks on collagen synthesis, smoothness, and inflammation of the skin were further evaluated in vivo using two modes (mask administration interspersed with UVB exposure and mask administration after UVB exposure) of a rat model.

RESULTS

Facial masks containing both 0.3 and 0.8 mM farnesol improved skin smoothness and enhanced collagen content and arrangement in the skin of rats with mask administration interspersed with and after UVB exposure. The masks containing 0.8 mM farnesol exerted the greatest effects on collagen production/arrangement and smoothness improvement in vivo model. Histopathologically observed inflammation was alleviated, and interleukin (IL)-6 was decreased in the 0.8 mM farnesol-containing facial mask-covered skin compared with that without facial masks.

CONCLUSIONS

The farnesol-containing facial masks prepared in this study may have collagen production-increasing, smoothness-improving, and anti-inflammatory properties for UVB-caused sunburn; thus, farnesol is potentially a beneficial component in facial masks.

Skin Retention of Sorbates from an After Sun Formulation for a Broad Photoprotection

Overexposure to sunlight is widely accepted as the underlying cause of cutaneous melanoma. UV radiation induces the formation of DNA photoproducts that, if unrepaired, can induce carcinogenic mutations. Recent data indicate that sorbates can be useful to widen the protection against UV radiation by acting as a triplet-state quencher in the melanocyte. The aim of the present work was to prepare an after sun formulation containing ethylsorbate or sorbic acid in order to take advantage of the triplet-state quenching activity of these molecules and protect the skin from UV-induced damages. Ethylsorbate and sorbic acid were characterized in terms of solubility and partition coefficient, and their transdermal permeation and skin accumulation were studied in vitro from simple solutions and in the presence of cyclodextrins (alpha and hydroxypropylbeta) as a complexing agent. The goal was to reduce as much as possible sorbates permeation while sustaining their skin levels. The obtained results indicated that the addition of alphacyclodextrins determined a 6-folds (ethylsorbate ) or 4-folds (sorbic acid) reduction of the transdermal permeation. Sorbic acid and alphacyclodextrin (1:1 molar ratio) were then formulated in an after sun vehicle using 1.5% hyaluronic acid (sodium salt) as a thickener and hydrating agent. The addition of hyaluronic acid gave rise to a formulation with good cosmetic properties and good sorbate (0.2–0.3 µmol/cm2) skin levels (stratum corneum + viable epidermis) and thus a potential protection against post-exposure UV damage.

Instrumental Assessment of the Face Skin Aging in Women

The aim of this study is to conduct several non-invasive methods for assessing the level of circulatory disturbance, elasticity and aging of skin in patients of different age groups in order to expand the diagnostic capabilities and evaluate the effectiveness of current research in aesthetic medicine. Clinical and instrumental exploration of 160 women aged 17 to 75 years with varying degrees of involutional skin changes was carried out. To objectify the assessment of skin condition, in all group of patients modern instrumental methods were used, such as: elastometry, ultrasound examination of the skin, laser Doppler flowmetry, transcutaneous oxygen tension. Concurrent implementation of several non-invasive methods for assessing the level of circulatory disturbance, elasticity and aging of the skin, allowed us to find new possibilities for studying the functional state of the skin. These methods extend the possibilities of ultrasonic research methods used today in aesthetic cosmetology. The obtained comparative data of elastometry, ultrasonography, laser Doppler flowmetry and transcutaneous oximetry in patients of different age groups showed the presence of elasticity and structure defect, skin thickness and subcutaneous fat, as well as microcirculation changes since 25 years and marked changes after 40 years.