Silymarin, a molecule of interest for topical photoprotection

Anti-apoptotic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-melanogenic effects of the ethanol extract of Picrasma quassioides (D. Don) Benn

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Picrasma quassioides (D. Don) Benn is a vascular plant belonging to the genus Picrasma of Simaroubaceae family and grows in Korea, China, India, Taiwan, and Japan. Picrasma quassioides extract has been reported to have anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and anti-cancer properties. Moreover, this plant has been also traditionally used to alleviate symptoms of eczema, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, scabies, and boils in skin.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The Pq-EE has been reported in Chinese pharmacopoeia for its pharmacological effects on skin. However, the detailed mechanism on alleviating skin conditions is not understood. Hence, we investigated the skin improvement potential of Pq-EE against skin damage.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We used the human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and mouse melanoma cell line (B16F10) to study the effects of Pq-EE on the epidermis. Additionally, in vitro antioxidant assays were performed using a solution that included either metal ions or free radicals.

RESULTS

In colorimetric antioxidant assays, Pq-EE inhibited free radicals in a dose-dependent manner. The Pq-EE did not affect cell viability and promoted cell survival under UVB exposure conditions in the MTT assay. The Pq-EE downregulated the mRNA levels of apoptotic factors. Moreover, MMP1 and inflammatory cytokine iNOS mRNA levels decreased with Pq-EE treatment. With regard to protein levels, caspases and cleaved caspases were more powerfully inhibited by Pq-EE than UVB-irritated conditions. p53 and Bax also decreased with Pq-EE treatment. The melanin contents and secretion were decreased at nontoxic concentrations of Pq-EE. The pigmentation pathway genes also were inhibited by treatment with Pq-EE.

CONCLUSIONS

In summary, we suggest the cell protective potential of Pq-EE against UVB and ROS, indicating its use in UV-protective cosmeceutical materials.

New developments in sunscreens

Topical sunscreen application is one of the most important photoprotection tool to prevent sun damaging effects in human skin at the short and long term. Although its efficacy and cosmeticity have significantly improved in recent years, a better understanding of the biological and clinical effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as long ultraviolet A (UVA I) and blue light, has driven scientists and companies to search for effective and safe filters and substances to protect against these newly identified forms of radiation. New technologies have sought to imbue sunscreen with novel properties, such as the reduction of calorific radiation. Cutaneous penetration by sunscreens can also be reduced using hydrogels or nanocrystals that envelop the filters, or by binding filters to nanocarriers such as alginate microparticles, cyclodextrins, and methacrylate polymers. Finally, researchers have looked to nature as a source of healthier products, such as plant products (e.g., mycosporines, scytonemin, and various flavonoids) and even fungal and bacterial melanin, which could potentially be used as substitutes or enhancers of current filters.

Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF)

Artificial sunscreens are already gaining traction in order to protect the skin from sunburns, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. However, the efficacy and safety of most artificial sunscreen constituents are hindered by their photostability, toxicity and damage to marine ecosystems. Natural selection and evolution have ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protective mechanisms against the deleterious side effects of oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation (UV). Hence, natural antioxidants such as sun blockers are drawing considerable attention. The exact mechanism by which natural components act as sunscreen molecules has not been clearly established. However, conjugated π system is reported to play an important role in protecting the vital genetic material within the organism. Compared to artificial sunscreens, natural sunscreens with strong UV absorptive capacities are largely limited by low specific extinction value and by their inability to spread in large-scale sunscreen cosmetic applications. Previous studies have documented that natural components exert their photoprotective effects (such as improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, and wrinkles) through their antioxidant effects, and through the regulation of UV-induced skin inflammation, barrier impairment and aging. This review focuses on natural antioxidant topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Lignin, melanin, silymarin and other ingredients have been added to high sun protection nature sunscreens without any physical or chemical UV filters. This paper also provides a reference for adopting novel technical measures (extracting high content components, changing the type of solution, optimizing formulation, applying Nano technology, et al) to design and prepare nature sunscreen formulations equated with commercial sunscreen formulations. Another strategy is to add natural antioxidants from plants, animals, microorganisms and marine organisms as special enhancer or modifier ingredients to reinforce SPF values. Although the photoprotective effects of natural components have been established, their deleterious side effects have not been elucidated.

Skin Protective Activity of Silymarin and its Flavonolignans

Silybum marianum (L.) is a medicinal plant traditionally used in treatment of liver disorders. In last decades, silymarin (SM), a standardized extract from S. marianum seeds has been studied for its dermatological application, namely for UVB-protective properties. However, information on SM and its polyphenols effect on activity of enzymes participating in the (photo)aging process is limited. Therefore, evaluation of SM and its flavonolignans potential to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase in tube tests was the goal of this study. The antioxidant and UV screening properties of SM and its flavonolignans silybin, isosilybin, silydianin, silychristin and 2,3-dehydrosilybin (DHSB) were also evaluated by a DPPH assay and spectrophotometrical measurement. DHSB showed the highest ability to scavenge DPPH radical and also revealed the highest UVA protection factor (PF-UVA) that corresponds with its absorption spectrum. SM and studied flavonolignans were found to exhibit anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity. The most potent flavonolignan was DHSB. None of studied flavonolignans or SM showed anti-hyaluronidase activity. Our results suggest that SM and its flavonolignans may be useful agents for skin protection against the harmful effects of full-spectrum solar radiation including slowing down skin (photo)aging.

Genoprotective Effect of Phyllanthus orbicularis Extract Against UVA, UVB, and Solar Radiation

One approach to protect the human skin against harmful effects of solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation was to use natural products as photoprotectors. In this work, the extract from specie Phyllanthus orbicularis K was evaluated as a protective agent against the photodamage by UVB, UVA artificial lamps, and environmental sunlight exposure. The plasmid DNA solutions were exposed to radiations using the DNA dosimeter system in the presence of plant extract. The DNA repair enzymes, Escherichia coli Formamidopyrimidine-DNA glycosylase (Fpg) and T4 bacteriophage endonuclease V (T4-endo V), were employed to discriminate oxidized DNA damage and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), respectively. The supercoiled and relaxed forms of DNA were separated through electrophoretic migration in agarose gels. These DNA forms were quantified to determine strand break, representing the types of lesion levels. The results showed that, in the presence of P. orbicularis extract, the CPD and oxidative damage were reduced in irradiated DNA samples. The photoprotective effect of extract was more evident for UVB and sunlight radiation than for UVA. This work documented the UV absorbing properties of P. orbicularis aqueous extract and opened up new vistas in its characterization as protective agent against DNA damage induced by environmental sunlight radiation.

Melanoma Chemoprevention: Current Status and Future Prospects

The incidence of skin cancers, both nonmelanoma and melanoma, is increasing in the United States. The ultraviolet radiation, mainly from sun, is considered the major cause for these neoplasms. While nonmelanoma skin cancers are far more numerous, melanoma remains the most challenging. This is because melanoma can become extremely aggressive and its incidence is increasing worldwide due to lack of effective early detection, as well as disease recurrence, following both surgery and chemotherapy. Therefore, in addition to better treatment options, newer means are required to prevent melanomas from developing. Chemoprevention is a reasonable cost-effective approach to prevent carcinogenesis by inhibiting the processes of tumor initiation, promotion and progression. Melanoma is a progressive disease, which makes it very suitable for chemopreventive interventions, by targeting the processes and molecular pathways involved in the progression of melanoma. This review discusses the roles of various chemopreventive agents such as NSAIDs, statins, vitamins and dietary agents in melanoma and highlights current advancements and our perspective on future of melanoma chemoprevention. Although considerable preclinical data suggest that melanoma may be prevented or delayed by a numerous chemopreventive agents, we realize there are insufficient clinical studies evaluating their efficacy and long-term safety for human use.

Efficacy of Pre- and Post-Treatment by Topical Formulations Containing Dissolved and Suspended Silybum marianum against UVB-Induced Oxidative Stress in Guinea Pig and on HaCaT Keratinocytes

Plants with high amounts of antioxidants may be a promising therapy for preventing and curing UV-induced oxidative skin damage. The objective of this study was to verify the efficacy of topical formulations containing dissolved and suspended Silybum marianum extract against UVB-induced oxidative stress in guinea pig and HaCaT keratinocytes. Herbal extract was dissolved in Transcutol HP (TC) and sucrose-esters were incorporated as penetration enhancers in creams. Biocompatibility of compositions was tested on HeLa cells and HaCaT keratinocytes as in vitro models. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) tests were performed to prove the safety of formulations in vivo. Drug release of different compositions was assessed by Franz diffusion methods. Superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GPx) and lipid peroxidation (MDA) activities were evaluated before and after UVB irradiation in a guinea pig model and HaCaT cells. Heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) enzyme activity was measured in the epidermis of guinea pigs treated by different creams before and after UVB irradiation. Treatment with compositions containing silymarin powder (SM) dissolved in TC and sucrose stearate SP 50 or SP 70 resulted in increased activities of all reactive oxygen species (ROS) eliminating enzymes in the case of pre- and post-treatment as well. Reduction in the levels of lipid peroxidation end products was also detected after treatment with these two compositions. Post-treatment was more effective as the increase of the activity of antioxidants was higher. Lower HO-1 enzyme levels were measured in the case of pre- and post-treatment groups compared to control groups. Therefore, this study demonstrates the effectiveness of topical formulations containing silymarin in inhibiting UVB irradiation induced oxidative stress of the skin.