Xenobiotics in vitro: the influence of L-cystine, pantothenat, and miliacin on metabolic and proliferative capacity of keratinocytes

Millet seed oil activates β-catenin signaling and promotes hair growth

Alopecia, regardless of gender, exacerbates psychological stress in those affected. The rising prevalence of alopecia has fueled a research interest in preventing hair loss. This study investigates the potential of millet seed oil (MSO) in promoting the proliferation of hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC) and stimulating hair growth in animals with testosterone-dependent hair growth inhibition as part of a study on dietary treatments to improve hair growth. MSO-treated HFDPC significantly increased cell proliferation and phosphorylation of AKT, S6K1, and GSK3β proteins. This induces β-catenin, a downstream transcription factor, to translocate to the nucleus and increase the expression of factors related to cell growth. In a C57BL/6 mice model in which hair growth was inhibited by subcutaneous testosterone injection after shaving the dorsal skin, oral administration of MSO stimulated hair growth in the subject mice by increasing the size and number of hair follicles. These results suggest that MSO is a potent agent that may help prevent or treat androgenetic alopecia by promoting hair growth.

"Miliacin encapsulated by polar lipids stimulates cell proliferation in hair bulb and improves telogen effluvium in women"

BACKGROUND

Miliacin, the main triterpenoid from millet, is known to stimulate keratinocyte metabolism and proliferation. Polar lipids are able to form vesicles with active compounds and to improve their bioavailability.

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to demonstrate potential benefits of a solution of miliacin encapsulated within polar lipids (MePL) on telogen effluvium prevention and hair condition in women.

METHODS

After preliminary cell proliferation studies, a placebo-controlled, multicentric, randomized, double-blind trial was performed on sixty-five nonmenopausal women affected by telogen effluvium, to assess the efficacy of a 12-week oral supplementation with MePL. Telogen and anagen densities were determined by phototrichogram analysis. Scalp dryness and hair brightness were clinically evaluated using a Likert scale.

RESULTS

MePL further enhanced cell proliferation in hair bulb from human scalp than miliacin alone. Compared to the placebo treatment, MePL supplementation significantly reduced telogen density after 12 weeks of treatment. An increase of anagen density was observed in both groups, although there was no significant difference between the two treatments. Scalp dryness was more decreased in the MePL group than in the placebo group. A better improvement of hair brightness was also observed after 12 weeks of supplementation with MePL.

CONCLUSION

Twelve weeks of MePL supplementation significantly reduced the hair density in the telogen phase and, in parallel, improved scalp dryness and hair condition. These effects could be linked to MePL activity on cell proliferation in hair bulb. MePL is an original association of plant extract that could help to prevent and/or limit hair loss in women.

Cystine-thiamin-containing hair-growth formulation modulates the response to UV radiation in an in vitro model for growth-limiting conditions of human keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is known to be harmful to normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) of the epidermal skin layer, as well as to hair-follicle-associated keratinocytes. An oral formulation containing l-cystine, thiamin, calcium d-pantothenate, medicinal yeast, keratin and p-aminobenzoic acid (Panto[vi]gar®) has demonstrated clinical efficacy for the treatment of diffuse telogen effluvium; however, its mode of action at the cellular level, and in particular whether protective mechanisms are involved, has yet to be elucidated.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the capacity of ingredients of this oral formulation, both separately and in combination, to modulate the effects of UVR in growth-limited NHEKs in vitro.

METHODS

NHEKs were incubated in keratinocyte basal medium, keratinocyte basal medium lacking cystine, thiamin, calcium d-pantothenate, folic acid and biotine (minimal growth medium [MGM]) or MGM plus test compound. Test compounds comprised the following four ingredients related to the oral formulation: l-cystine, thiamin, calcium d-pantothenate and folic acid (a proposed metabolite of p-aminobenzoic acid), and a combination of these (Panto[vi]gar®-in vitro correlate; P-IC). The effect of different doses of these compounds on the metabolic activity and proliferation of NHEKs was tested, as well as their influence on the impact of UV light on NHEKs assessed by monitoring metabolic activity, cell number and apoptosis induction.

RESULTS

Compared with basal medium, MGM reduced the proliferation of NHEKs in a time-dependent manner. Reduced proliferation is a characteristic of the multifactorial and complex phenotype associated with diffuse hair loss. l-cystine (50 μM) increased metabolic activity and proliferation 3-fold versus MGM (p < 0.05). Thiamin also had a significant effect (p < 0.05) on proliferation and metabolic activity of NHEKs, but calcium d-pantothenate and folic acid did not when tested individually in this in vitro model. In the presence of P-IC, metabolic activity increased 4-fold and proliferation 3-fold compared with MGM alone (p < 0.05 for both). Following UV irradiation, cells in MGM showed a 72% reduction in metabolic activity, while P-IC-treated cells showed only a 12-18% reduction. The observed prevention of the UV-induced reduction in metabolic activity was not simply due to filtering UVR by the P-IC components, as P-IC-mediated reduction of this effect persisted even when P-IC was washed out during UV irradiation.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrated that l-cystine and thiamin are essential for proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes and suggests a novel, UV-protective potential of formulations combining l-cystine and thiamin in growth-limited inter-follicular NHEKs in vitro.

Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article

Approximately 70 years ago, the first topical dexpanthenol-containing formulation (Bepanthen™ Ointment) has been developed. Nowadays, various topical dexpanthenol preparations exist, tailored according to individual requirements. Topical dexpanthenol has emerged as frequently used formulation in the field of dermatology and skin care. Various studies confirmed dexpanthenol's moisturizing and skin barrier enhancing potential. It prevents skin irritation, stimulates skin regeneration and promotes wound healing. Two main directions in the use of topical dexpanthenol-containing formulations have therefore been pursued: as skin moisturizer/skin barrier restorer and as facilitator of wound healing. This 70th anniversary paper reviews studies with topical dexpanthenol in skin conditions where it is most frequently used. Although discovered decades ago, the exact mechanisms of action of dexpanthenol have not been fully elucidated yet. With the adoption of new technologies, new light has been shed on dexpanthenol's mode of action at the molecular level. It appears that dexpanthenol increases the mobility of stratum corneum molecular components which are important for barrier function and modulates the expression of genes important for wound healing. This review will update readers on recent advances in this field.