Differences in Cardiorespiratory Responses in Winter Mountaineering According to the Pathway Snow Conditions

Nutrition and Hydration for High-Altitude Alpinism: A Narrative Review

This report aims to summarise the scientific knowledge around hydration, nutrition, and metabolism at high altitudes and to transfer it into the practical context of extreme altitude alpinism, which, as far as we know, has never been considered before in the literature. Maintaining energy balance during alpine expeditions is difficult for several reasons and requires a deep understanding of human physiology and the biological basis for altitude acclimation. However, in these harsh conditions it is difficult to reconcile our current scientific knowledge in sports nutrition or even for mountaineering to high-altitude alpinism: extreme hypoxia, cold, and the logistical difficulties intrinsic to these kinds of expeditions are not considered in the current literature. Requirements for the different stages of an expedition vary dramatically with increasing altitude, so recommendations must differentiate whether the alpinist is at base camp, at high-altitude camps, or attempting the summit. This paper highlights nutritional recommendations regarding prioritising carbohydrates as a source of energy and trying to maintain a protein balance with a practical contextualisation in the extreme altitude environment in the different stages of an alpine expedition. More research is needed regarding specific macro and micronutrient requirements as well as the adequacy of nutritional supplementations at high altitudes.

Editorial on the Research Topic the 2nd Edition of Mountain Sports Activities: Injuries and Prevention

Mountain sports are continuously gaining popularity, currently fueled by the post-pandemic period expanding travel opportunities and the desire to escape the increasingly hot environmental conditions of urban areas—ambient temperature decreases by about 6 [...]

How important is V̇O2max when climbing Mt. Everest (8,849 m)?

The maximal rate of oxygen uptake (V̇O₂max) of humans declines with increasing altitude, but represents the upper limit of aerobic endurance performance at low and high altitude as well. Before Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler climbed Mt. Everest first (1978) without supplemental oxygen, physiologists have doubted whether this would be possible due to insufficient V̇O₂max remaining when approaching the summit (8849 m). Subsequently, several studies evaluated the decline in the V̇O₂max levels at real and simulated extreme altitudes. However, the potential influence of the preexisting individual sea level V̇O₂max remained largely unconsidered. Based on available studies and case observations, here we discuss the observed and expected decline of V̇O₂max up to 8849 m dependent on the individual sea level V̇O₂max. It is concluded that a high sea level V̇O₂max and an only moderate decline of arterial oxygen saturation and associated V̇O₂max with increasing altitude, due to appropriate acclimatization and ascent strategies, enable certain mountaineers to climb 8,000er summits and even the Everest without supplemental oxygen.