Preparticipation Evaluation for Climbing Sports

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes-A Cross-Sectional Study

In recent years, climbing sports is on the rise making its Olympic debut in 2021. Physiological traits of professional rock climbers have been intensively studied, while recreational indoor climbers are less investigated, especially regarding grip strength and upper extremity proportions. In this cross-sectional study, we aimed to understand what discerns the recreational climber from disparate recreational athletes. Therefore, we analyzed 50 recreational climbing (30.3 ± 12.7 years, 1.76 ± 0.09 m and 67.0 ± 14.0 kg) and 50 non-climbing athletes (26.4 ± 9.1 years, 1.78 ± 0.09 m and 73.2 ± 12.6 kg) to detect differences in their finger grip strength of seven different pinches. In addition, the upper extremity proportions were measured. Even in recreational climbers, almost all analyzed grips were stronger compared to other athletes (p < 0.05 in all but non-dominant fist, small to moderate effect sizes). Only the grip strength of the whole non-dominant hand was not significantly different (p = 0.17). Interestingly, differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand appeared to be larger in the non-climbing (all p < 0.05, all but one with small effect size) compared to the climbing cohort (pinch I/IV and pinch I/II+III+IV not different and mostly trivial). Circumference measurements showed that 10 cm below the lateral epicondyle, climbers exhibited significantly greater perimeter compared to non-climbing athletes (p < 0.05, small effect size). Our results show that recreational climbers have higher measured grip strength, but less profound differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand.

Effects of Short Practice of Climbing on Barriers Self-Efficacy within a Physical Education and Sport Intervention in Germany

The study examined the effects of an indoor wall climbing intervention within the context of a regular Physical Education and Sport (PES) program on barriers self-efficacy (SE) of adolescents in Germany. The study used a field experiment with a wait-list control group. Seventy-eight 8th-graders were included (age: 14.41 ± 0.71 years), with 37 randomly assigned for the intervention group and 41 for the control group. The intervention group participated in two half-day indoor wall climbing excursions (duration: 180 min each) based on SE building strategies. Both groups were pre-and post-tested in SE of indoor wall climbing and belaying. The control group did not receive any treatment before post-test. After the intervention, significant improvements were found in the experimental group on SE of belaying (F(1,76) = 23.45, p = 0.000, η2p = 0.24) using repeated-measures ANOVA. This study provides the first evidence from a German PES field experiment on increasing an important SE facet related to indoor wall climbing among 8th-graders. The program may be improved and further analyzed to install a short-term method to achieve one important educational goal within ordinary PES programs in Germany and to contribute to the personal development of the students.

Evaluation of severe and fatal injuries in extreme and contact sports: an international multicenter analysis

PURPOSE

The participation in extreme and contact sports has grown internationally, despite the significant risk for major and multiple injuries. We conducted this multicenter study to evaluate sport-specific injury patterns and mechanisms, to characterize individuals at risk and to identify possible approaches for prevention.

METHODS

We compared demographic data, severity and patterns of injuries; and the pre- and in-hospital management from an international population-based prospective trauma database (TraumaRegister DGU®). The registry was screened for sport-related injuries, and only patients with major injuries [Injury Severity Score (ISS) ≥ 9 points] related to extreme or contact sports activities were included (January 1, 2002, to December 31, 2012). Parameters were compared for different types of sports activities: (1) Airborne sports, (2) Climbing, (3) Skateboarding/Skating, (4) Contact sports. The following countries participated: Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Finland, Slovenia, Belgium, Luxembourg, and The Netherlands. Statistical analyses were performed with SPSS (Version 22, IBM Inc., Armonk, New York).

RESULTS

A total of 278 athletes were identified within the study period and classified into four groups: Airborne sports (n = 105) were associated with the highest injury severity (ISS 22.4 ± 14.6), followed by climbing (n = 35, ISS 16.5 ± 12), skating (n = 67, ISS 15.2 ± 10.3) and contact sports (n = 71, ISS 10.4 ± 9.2). Especially high falls resulted in a significant rate of spinal injuries in airborne activities (68.6%, p < 0.001) and in climbing accidents (45.7%). Skating was associated with the highest rate of loss of consciousness (LOC) at scene (27.1%), the highest pre-hospital intubation rate (33.3%), and also the highest in-hospital mortality (15.2%, p < 0.001), related to major head injuries.

CONCLUSIONS

Extreme and contact sports related major injuries predominantly affect young male athletes. Especially skaters are at risk for debilitating and lethal head injuries. Individuals recognizing sport-specific hazards might modify their risk behavior.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE

Descriptive Epidemiologic Study, Level II.