Instability and finite-amplitude self-organization of large-scale coastline shapes

Linking Short- to Medium-Term Beach Dune Dynamics to Local Features under Wave and Wind Actions: A Northern Portuguese Case Study

Many coasts suffer from prevailing erosion, with them being particularly vulnerable to predicted climate change impacts, threatening coastal ecosystems, their services, infrastructures and populations. Understanding coastal morpho-sedimentary dynamics is thus essential for coastal management. However, coastal vulnerability may differ locally, depending on exposure/protection and local geological and morpho-hydrodynamical features, suggesting that a local approach to erosion risk assessment is needed to identify and understand local patterns. Digital elevation models of a 14 km long coastal stretch in northern Portugal that were extracted from aerial surveys obtained between November 2008 and February 2019 were analysed to quantify changes in shoreline position and sediment budgets, both for the whole study area and for distinct beach segments. The observed dynamics were subsequently analysed by considering prevailing wave and wind intensities and directions. Overall and during the decade analysed, the beach–dune system of the studied stretch slightly increased in volume (0.6%), although the shoreline retreated (by 1.6 m on average). Temporal variability in coastal dynamics was observed at all of the temporal scales considered—from seasons to 5-year periods—with them being related to variability in ocean and wind patterns. There was a trend from accretional to erosional conditions, with the first 5-year period showing a mean increase in the beach–dune system’s volume of 0.6% and a mean shoreline progradation of 1.5 m, followed by 5-years with 0.0% volume change and 3.1 m shoreline retreat. Locally, the dynamics were very variable, with shoreline dynamics ranging from 24.0 m regression to 51.5 m progradation, and sediment budgets from 213.8 m3 loss to 417.0 m3 gain, per segment and for the decade. Stretches with relatively stable morphologies and others with erosional or accretional trends were found, depending on the beach type, shoreline orientation and the presence of defence structures. Rocky beaches were the least dynamic and sandy beaches the most dynamic, with mean shoreline position changes of 0.0 m and −3.4 m, respectively, and mean sediment budgets of −1.1 m3 and −2.9 m3 per linear meter of coastline, respectively, for the studied decade. The observed dynamics showed how local conditions interacted with meteo-ocean conditions in shaping local morpho-sedimentary dynamics, stressing the importance of a local approach to coastal erosion monitoring and risk assessment.

Artificial Nourishments Effects on Longshore Sediments Transport

Serious erosion problems related to significant negative sediments budgets in the coastal systems are referred worldwide. Artificial nourishments are a coastal erosion mitigation strategy that allow for a decrease in those negative budgets by adding sediment to the coastal system. Thus, it is essential to understand and adequately model the shoreline response after a nourishment operation, in order to support the definition of the best intervention scenarios. The main goal of this work was to study the artificial nourishment effects on the longshore sediment transport and consequently on the morphological evolution at the intervention site and nearby areas, in a time horizon of 5 years. The longshore transport of the nourished sediments was evaluated, aiming to contribute to the evaluation of the sediment’s permanence at the deposition site and the frequency required for new nourishments. The shoreline evolution numerical long-term configuration (LTC) model was applied in order to evaluate the spatial and temporal distribution of the nourished sediments along the coast, considering different types of beaches and incident wave climates. The adopted approach is generic and supported by simple numerical models, which can be useful for preliminary site-specific evaluations. The results show that the nourishment impact is mainly observed nearby the intervention site. It is highlighted that higher longshore sediment transport rates are associated with more energetic wave climates, but not necessarily with incident waves more oblique to the shoreline.

Pattern formation in the geosciences

Pattern formation is a natural property of nonlinear and non-equilibrium dynamical systems. Geophysical examples of such systems span practically all observable length scales, from rhythmic banding of chemical species within a single mineral crystal, to the morphology of cusps and spits along hundreds of kilometres of coastlines. This article briefly introduces the general principles of pattern formation and argues how they can be applied to open problems in the Earth sciences. Particular examples are then discussed, which summarize the contents of the rest of this Theme Issue.