Skin acidification with a water-in-oil emulsion (pH 4) restores disrupted epidermal barrier and improves structure of lipid lamellae in the elderly

The Skin Acid Mantle: An Update on Skin pH

The acid mantle concept refers to the buffer system located in the upper stratum corneum of the skin. By sustaining an acidic environment, the acid mantle contributes to the regulation of the microbiome, structural stability, and inflammation. Skin pH is pivotal in maintaining the integrity of the epidermal barrier. Shifts in pH can disrupt barrier properties, and recent studies have emphasized its impact on dermatologic disease processes. This review explores the complex relationship of mechanisms through which skin pH impacts dermatologic pathologies. Furthermore, we highlight the promising potential of pH-targeted therapies for advancing the management of skin conditions.

Maintenance of an Acidic Skin Surface with a Novel Zinc Lactobionate Emollient Preparation Improves Skin Barrier Function in Patients with Atopic Dermatitis

INTRODUCTION

The skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterised by elevated pH. As a central homeostatic regulator, an increased pH accelerates desquamation and suppresses lipid processing, resulting in diminished skin barrier function. The aim of this study was to determine whether a novel zinc lactobionate emollient cream can strengthen the skin barrier by lowering skin surface pH.

METHODS

A double-blind, forearm-controlled cohort study was undertaken in patients with AD. Participants applied the test cream to one forearm and a vehicle cream to the other (randomised allocation) twice daily for 56 days. Skin surface pH and barrier function (primary outcomes) were assessed at baseline and after 28 days and 56 days of treatment, amongst other tests.

RESULTS

A total of 23 adults with AD completed the study. During and after treatment, a sustained difference in skin surface pH was observed between areas treated with the test cream and vehicle (4.50 ± 0.38 versus 5.25 ± 0.54, respectively, p < 0.0001). This was associated with significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on the test cream treated areas compared with control (9.71 ± 2.47 versus 11.20 ± 3.62 g/m2/h, p = 0.0005). Improvements in skin barrier integrity, skin sensitivity to sodium lauryl sulphate, skin hydration, and chymotrypsin-like protease activity were all observed at sites treated with the test cream compared with the control.

CONCLUSION

Maintenance of an acidic skin surface pH and delivery of physiologic lipids are beneficial for skin health and may help improve AD control by reducing sensitivity to irritants and allergens.

Importance of Stratum Corneum Acidification to Restore Skin Barrier Function in Eczematous Diseases

Skin barrier function relies on three essential components: stratum corneum (SC) lipids, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), and the acidic pH of the SC surface. Three endogenous pathways contribute to acidity: free fatty acids from phospholipids, trans-urocanic acid from filaggrin (FLG), and the sodium-proton antiporter (NHE1) activity. An acidic SC environment boosts the activity of enzymes to produce ceramides, which are vital for skin health. Conversely, an elevated pH can lead to increased skin infections, reduced lipid-processing enzyme activity, impaired permeability barrier recovery, and compromised integrity and cohesion of the SC due to increased serine protease (SP) activity. Elevated SC pH is observed in neonatal, aged, and inflamed skin. In atopic dermatitis (AD), it results from decreased NMF due to reduced FLG degradation, decreased fatty acids from reduced lamellar body secretion, and reduced lactic acid due to decreased sweating. Moreover, the imbalance between SP and SP inhibitors disrupts barrier homeostasis. However, acidifying the SC can help restore balance and reduce SP activity. Acidic water bathing has been found to be safe and effective for AD. In three different AD murine models, SC acidification prevented the progression of AD to respiratory allergies. In aging skin, a decrease in NHE1 leads to an increased skin pH. Mild acidic skin care products or moisturizers containing NHE1 activators can normalize skin pH and improve barrier function. In conclusion, maintaining the acidity of the SC is crucial for healthy skin barrier function, leading to significant benefits for various skin conditions, such as AD and aging-related skin issues.

A novel chlorin e6 derivative-mediated photodynamic therapy STBF-PDT reverses photoaging via the TGF-β pathway

OBJECTIVE

Photoaging is characterized by wrinkles in the skin and the deterioration of the skin barrier function, mainly caused by long-term exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Photodynamic therapy (PDT) has been shown to treat photoaging. The novel photosensitizer ShengTaiBuFen(STBF) is a derived substance of Chlorin e6(Ce6) that can exert photodynamic effects directly. In this study, we investigated the availability and the mechanism of STBF-PDT in the treatment of photoaging.

METHODS

Fluorophotometer was used to determine therapeutic parameters for in vivo experiments. Camera photographs, dermoscopy, HE and Masson staining, skin pH, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), epidermal water content, and sebum testing were used together to evaluate the results of the treatment. Dark toxicity and therapeutic parameters for in vitro experiments were determined by CCK8 analysis. Scratch assay was used to identify the cell migration of STBF-PDT on HaCaT cells. qPCR and Western blot were used to evaluate the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells.

RESULTS

We investigated the optimal STBF concentration and time of incubation in vivo and in vitro experiments. STBF-PDT improved the skin phenotype of photoaged mice. The skin of photoaged mice treated with 80 J/cm² STBF-PDT became smooth, while skin flakes were reduced. The epidermis of STBF-PDT-treated mice was thinner, and the cells were neatly arranged, with increased dermal collagen. In vitro, STBF-PDT promoted the migration of HaCaT cells below a light dose of 0.1 J/cm². HDF cells co-cultured with HaCaT cells treated with low-dose STBF-PDT showed activation of the TGF-β pathway.

CONCLUSION

As a novel photosensitizer, STBF-mediated low-dose PDT could reverse photoaging via the TGF-β pathway.

Comparison of lipid foam cream and basic cream on epidermal reconstruction in mild atopic eczema

INTRODUCTION

Basic therapy is of central importance in the treatment of atopic eczema. Using electron microscopic images, the morphology of epidermal skin barrier and its lipids was investigated after application of a lipid foam cream and basic cream.

METHODS

Patients with two contralateral comparable atopic eczema (local SCORAD 1-10) on the forearms were tested. Eczema was treated with a lipid foam cream or basic cream twice daily for 28 days. At the beginning, after 14 days and at the end of application, the local SCORAD, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, intercellular lipid length (ICLL) in the intercellular space (ICS) of the stratum corneum (SC) and skin lipids were determined.

RESULTS

After application of the foam cream, the epidermal skin barrier could be completely restored and corresponded to skin-healthy skin, while the epiderrmal skin barrier could not reach this state after care with the basic cream. The content of lipids in the SC increases significantly by 31% after basic cream treatment, whereas they are significantly increased by 85% after application of the lipid foam cream. The local SCORAD improved for both treatments to about the same extent, no significant results could be shown for TEWL and skin hydration.

CONCLUSION

In subjects with mild atopic eczema, the lipid foam cream leads to a measurable recovery of the skin barrier which is much more pronounced in comparison to the basic cream.

Newborn and elderly skin: two fragile skins at higher risk of pressure injury

Skin is a key organ maintaining internal homeostasis by performing many functions such as water loss prevention, body temperature regulation and protection from noxious substance absorption, microorganism intrusion and physical trauma. Skin ageing has been well studied and it is well known that physiological changes in the elderly result in higher skin fragility favouring the onset of skin diseases. For example, prolonged and/or high-intensity pressure may suppress local blood flow more easily, disturbing cell metabolism and inducing pressure injury (PI) formation. Pressure injuries (PIs) represent a significant problem worldwide and their prevalence remains too high. A higher PI prevalence is correlated with an elderly population. Newborn skin evolution has been less studied, but some data also report a higher PI prevalence in this population compared to older children, and several authors also consider this skin as physiologically fragile. In this review, we compare the characteristics of newborn and elderly skin in order to determine common features that may explain their fragility, especially regarding PI risk. We show that, despite differences in appearance, they share many common features leading to higher fragility to shear and pressure forces, not only at the structural level but also at the cellular and molecular level and in terms of physiology. Both newborn and elderly skin have: (i) a thinner epidermis; (ii) a thinner dermis containing a less-resistant collagen network, a higher collagen III:collagen I ratio and less elastin; (iii) a flatter dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) with lower anchoring systems; and (iv) a thinner hypodermis, resulting in lower mechanical resistance to skin damage when pressure or shear forces are applied. At the molecular level, reduced expression of transforming growth factor β (TGFβ) and its receptor TGFβ receptor II (TβRII) is involved in the decreased production and/or increased degradation of various dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) components. Epidermal fragility also involves a higher skin pH which decreases the activity of key enzymes inducing ceramide deficiency and reduced barrier protection. This seems to be correlated with higher PI prevalence in some situations. Some data also suggest that stratum corneum (SC) dryness, which may disturb cell metabolism, also increases the risk of PI formation. Besides this structural fragility, several skin functions are also less efficient. Low applied pressures induce skin vessel vasodilation via a mechanism called pressure-induced vasodilation (PIV). Individuals lacking a normal PIV response show an early decrease in cutaneous blood flow in response to the application of very low pressures, reflecting vascular fragility of the skin that increases the risk of ulceration. Due to changes in endothelial function, skin PIV ability decreases during skin ageing, putting it at higher risk of PI formation. In newborns, some data lead us to hypothesize that the nitric oxide (NO) pathway is not fully functional at birth, which may partly explain the higher risk of PI formation in newborns. In the elderly, a lower PIV ability results from impaired functionality of skin innervation, in particular that of C-fibres which are involved in both touch and pain sensation and the PIV mechanism. In newborns, skin sensitivity differs from adults due to nerve system immaturity, but the role of this in PIV remains to be determined.

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin - Contribution of glycolic acid

OBJECTIVE

The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH.

METHODS

Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis.

RESULTS

Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles' lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration.

CONCLUSIONS

Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations.

Skin pH-dependent Staphylococcus aureus abundance as predictor for increasing atopic dermatitis severity

BACKGROUND

Atopic eczema (atopic dermatitis, AD) is characterized by disrupted skin barrier associated with elevated skin pH and skin microbiome dysbiosis, due to high Staphylococcus aureus loads, especially during flares. Since S aureus shows optimal growth at neutral pH, we investigated the longitudinal interplay between these factors and AD severity in a pilot study.

METHOD

Emollient (with either basic pH 8.5 or pH 5.5) was applied double-blinded twice daily to 6 AD patients and 6 healthy (HE) controls for 8 weeks. Weekly, skin swabs for microbiome analysis (deep sequencing) were taken, AD severity was assessed, and skin physiology (pH, hydration, transepidermal water loss) was measured.

RESULTS

Physiological, microbiome, and clinical results were not robustly related to the pH of applied emollient. In contrast to longitudinally stable microbiome in HE, S aureus frequency significantly increased in AD over 8 weeks. High S aureus abundance was associated with skin pH 5.7-6.2. High baseline S aureus frequency predicted both increase in S aureus and in AD severity (EASI and local SCORAD) after 8 weeks.

CONCLUSION

Skin pH is tightly regulated by intrinsic factors and limits the abundance of S aureus. High baseline S aureus abundance in turn predicts an increase in AD severity over the study period. This underlines the importance and potential of sustained intervention regarding the skin pH and urges for larger studies linking skin pH and skin S aureus abundance to understand driving factors of disease progression.

Aging-associated alterations in epidermal function and their clinical significance

Chronologically-aged skin displays multiple functional changes in both the dermis and the epidermis. It appears that epidermal dysfunction, compromised permeability homeostasis, reduced stratum corneum hydration and elevated skin surface pH predispose to the development of aging-associated cutaneous and extracutaneous disorders. Improvements in epidermal function have been shown to be an effective alternative therapy in the prevention and treatment of some aging-associated cutaneous disorders, including eczematous dermatitis, pruritus, and xerosis. Recent studies demonstrated that epidermal dysfunction leads to the development of chronic, low-grade systemic inflammation, termed ‘inflammaging,’ which is linked to the development of aging-associated systemic disorders. Thus, correction of epidermal dysfunction could comprise a novel strategy in the prevention and treatment of aging-associated systemic disorders as well. In this review, we summarize aging-associated alterations in epidermal function, their underlying mechanisms, and their clinical significance. Regimens to improve epidermal function in the elderly are also discussed.