4-Hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol, a nuclear factor-κB inhibitor, improves photodamaged skin and clinical signs of ageing in a double-blinded, randomized controlled trial

Topical application of retinyl propionate, 4 hexyl resorcinol, and niacinamide reverses molecular and clinical features of ageing

OBJECTIVE

Topical tretinoin is the mainstay of treatment for photoageing, despite the risk of skin irritation. Cosmetic combination anti-ageing formulations may offer similar efficacy to tretinoin, while improving on tolerability. We aim to demonstrate facial appearance benefits of a novel triple-active cosmetic formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide and to identify transcriptomic biomarkers underpinning these benefits.

METHODS

A cosmetic prototype formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide was evaluated ex vivo and in a clinical study. For ex vivo experiments, the cosmetic formulation was applied for 3 days to healthy surgical discard skin from female donors aged 31-51 years, with tissues harvested for gene expression and histologic analyses. In the clinical study, females aged 47-66 years with moderate-to-severe overall visual photodamage on the face applied either topical 0.02% tretinoin or the cosmetic formulation to the face for 16 weeks and to forearms for 1 week, with forearm biopsies taken for gene expression analyses. Visual grading for facial photodamage and VISIA-CR images was taken throughout the clinical study. Safety was visually assessed during site visits, and adverse event monitoring was conducted throughout.

RESULTS

Gene expression analyses in both studies revealed modulation of pathways associated with skin rejuvenation, with several genes of interest identified due to being implicated in ageing and differentially expressed following the application of the cosmetic formulation. Reversal of a consensus skin ageing gene signature was observed with the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin in the ex vivo and clinical studies. Both the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin clinically improved the overall appearance of photoageing, crow's feet, lines, wrinkles, and pores. Adverse event reporting showed that the cosmetic formulation caused less skin irritation than tretinoin.

CONCLUSION

In a double-blind clinical study, the novel triple-active cosmetic combination formulation improved the visual appearance of photoageing similarly to prescription tretinoin. The cosmetic formulation and tretinoin reversed a consensus gene signature associated with ageing. Together with adverse event reporting, these results suggest that the cosmetic formulation may be a well-tolerated and efficacious alternative to tretinoin for improving the visual features of photoageing.

Long-term and potent IOP-lowering effect of IκBα-siRNA in a nonhuman primate model of chronic ocular hypertension

Glaucoma is one of the most common causes of irreversible blindness. It is acknowledged that lowering intraocular pressure (IOP) is the effective treatment to slow glaucoma disease progression. The main obstacle of existing drugs is that the effect of reducing IOP does not last long. Degradation of IκB stimulates the transcription of NF-κB, which could upregulate the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Whether a IκB-targeted gene therapy works in glaucoma is unclear. Here, we established a chronic ocular hypertension (COHT) model in rhesus monkey by laser photocoagulation and verified that intracameral delivery of IκBα-siRNA showed long-lasting and potent effects of reducing IOP without obvious inflammation in monkeys with COHT. We also verified that IκBα-siRNA could increase the expressions of MMP2 and MMP9 by knocking down IκBα in vitro and in vivo. Our results in nonhuman primates indicated that IκBα-siRNA may become a promising therapeutic approach for the treatment of glaucoma.

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Knocking down IκBα could upregulate the expression of MMP2 and MMP9 in MCM and MTM

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LP could induce COHT model in rhesus monkeys successfully

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IκBα-siRNA has a long-term and potent IOP-lowering effect in LP-induced monkeys with COHT

Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide

Objectives

To demonstrate the synergistic effect of 4‐hexylresorcinol (4‐HR) with niacinamide in boosting anti‐melanogenic efficacy in vitro and establish the in vivo efficacy and safety of the combination in a human trial.

Methods

Primary human epidermal melanocytes and 3D pigmented skin equivalents were treated with 4‐HR, niacinamide, and their combinations for their effect on pigmentation. This was followed by a randomized, double‐blind, split‐face clinical study in Chinese subjects, and effects on skin tone, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, and skin firmness were measured for a 12‐week study period.

Results

In vitro tyrosinase enzyme activity studies showed that 4‐HR is one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors. The combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide showed a synergistic reduction in melanin production in cultured melanocytes and lightened the 3D skin equivalent model. In vitro as well as in the human trial, the combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide showed significantly improved efficacy over niacinamide alone on hyperpigmentation spots as measured by L*, the visual appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in crow's feet and perioral area and skin firmness, with no product‐related adverse events.

Conclusions

A formulation containing a combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide delivered superior skin tone and anti‐ageing benefits significantly better than niacinamide alone with no adverse events. This study demonstrates that a product designed to affect multiple pathways of melanogenesis, inflammation, and ageing may provide an additional treatment option, beyond hydroquinone and retinoids, for hyperpigmentation and ageing.

A blackberry-dill extract combination synergistically increases skin elasticity

BACKGROUND

The loss of structural elastin due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing results in the skin's inability to stretch and recoil (decrease in elasticity) and manifests as loss of skin firmness and sagging. While other extracellular matrix (ECM) components such as collagen and hyaluronic acid are continually synthesized and assembled through life, elastic fibres are not. Elastic fibre assembly and functionality require fibre cross-linking, induced by the lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) enzymes, which sharply decrease during ageing.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the enhanced elastogenic effect of a blackberry-dill extract combination, which was hypothesized to induce elastin fibre component synthesis, fibre cross-linking and reduce elastin fibre degradation.

METHODS

The blackberry and the dill extracts were tested separately and in combination to confirm single ingredient bioactivity and synergistic benefits. Human skin explants, dermal fibroblasts, elastase assays, ELISAs, quantitative real-time PCRs and spectrofluorometer measurements were used. Moreover, a double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out to assess skin elasticity using Cutometer and histologically from biopsies.

RESULTS

The blackberry extract induced elastin gene expression, elastin promoter activity and inhibited elastic fibre degradation by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) 9 and 12. The dill extract induced elastin, collagen and LOXL1 gene expression, resulting in enhanced fibre cross-linking in human skin explants. Clinically, the blackberry and dill combination treatment displayed synergistic pro-elasticity activity as compared to each ingredient alone and placebo.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, these results demonstrated the two multimodal plant-based extracts complemented each other in terms of bioactivity and resulted in a synergistic elastogenesis induction.

Role of PGE-2 and Other Inflammatory Mediators in Skin Aging and Their Inhibition by Topical Natural Anti-Inflammatories

Human skin aging is due to two types of aging processes, “intrinsic” (chronological) aging and “extrinsic” (external factor mediated) aging. While inflammatory events, triggered mainly by sun exposure, but also by pollutants, smoking and stress, are the principle cause of rapid extrinsic aging, inflammation also plays a key role in intrinsic aging. Inflammatory events in the skin lead to a reduction in collagen gene activity but an increase in activity of the genes for matrix metalloproteinases. Inflammation also alters proliferation rates of cells in all skin layers, causes thinning of the epidermis, a flattening of the dermo-epidermal junction, an increase in irregular pigment production, and, finally, an increased incidence of skin cancer. While a large number of inflammatory mediators, including IL-1, TNF-alpha and PGE-2, are responsible for many of these damaging effects, this review will focus primarily on the role of PGE-2 in aging. Levels of this hormone-like mediator increase quickly when skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), causing changes in genes needed for normal skin structure and function. Further, PGE-2 levels in the skin gradually increase with age, regardless of whether or not the skin is protected from UVR, and this smoldering inflammation causes continuous damage to the dermal matrix. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, PGE-2 is strongly linked to skin cancer. This review will focus on: (1) the role of inflammation, and particularly the role of PGE-2, in accelerating skin aging, and (2) current research on natural compounds that inhibit PGE-2 production and how these can be developed into topical products to retard or even reverse the aging process, and to prevent skin cancer.

Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

As skin ages, there is a decline in physiologic function. These changes are induced by both intrinsic (chronologic) and extrinsic (predominately UV-induced) factors. Botanicals offer potential benefits to combat some of the signs of aging. Here, we review select botanicals and the scientific evidence behind their anti-aging claims. Botanicals may offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, and other effects. A multitude of botanicals are listed as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, but only a select few are discussed here. These were chosen based on the availability of scientific data, personal interest of the authors, and perceived “popularity” of current cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The botanicals reviewed here include argan oil, coconut oil, crocin, feverfew, green tea, marigold, pomegranate, and soy.