Texture analysis of cosmetic/pharmaceutical raw materials and formulations

Innovative properties of sustainable galactomannans from seeds of Adenanthera pavonina, Caesalpinia pulcherrima and Delonix regia

Given the importance of new renewable resources for the industrial sector, this study aimed to assess the innovative technological and biological properties of galactomannans derived from the seeds of Adenanthera pavonina (BioAp), Caesalpinia pulcherrima (BioCp), and Delonix regia (BioDr). The biopolymers were evaluated using various parameters, including texture, spreadability, cytocompatibility, hemocompatibility, antimicrobial assays, mucoadhesiveness, and irritation potential by HET-CAM test. The absence of cytotoxicity, hemolysis, and irritation showed the potential of the three biopolymers for applications in biomedical fields. BioAp and BioDr samples exhibited the most effective antimicrobial activity, with MICs of 512 μg mL-1 against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Candida albicans strains. The BioDr sample would be ideal for developing mucoadhesives due to its superior mucoadhesiveness in both powder and colloidal dispersion forms, achieving the highest Fmax adhesion force values of 0.46 N and 0.08 N, respectively. These findings expand the range of applications for these biopolymers and highlight their potential for integration into innovative polymer products in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical sectors.

Preparation of Gynostemma pentaphyllum Extracts Using Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents with Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction for Cosmetic Applications

Gynostemma pentaphyllum (GP) is an herbal tea with medicinal properties and potent antioxidants. Deep eutectic solvents (DESs) are another interesting solvent for plant extraction due to their ability to extract plant phytochemicals efficiently. This research was conducted to study the phytochemicals of GP extracts isolated by DESs, investigate the biological activities, and develop cosmetic formulations containing GP extracts. The results showed that the total phenolic and total flavonoid contents of DES extracts were 0.39 ± 0.04 to 6.93 + 0.59 mg GAE/g extract and 1.48 ± 0.44 to 8.17 + 0.07 mg QE/g extract, respectively. The highest IC50 values of DES extract on DPPH assay, lipid peroxidation inhibition, and nitric oxide radical scavenging of DES extracts were 8.54 ± 3.31, 6.04 ± 0.82, and 38.63 ± 1.46 mg/mL, respectively. The DES extracts demonstrated collagenase enzyme inhibition at IC50 values of 0.92 ± 0.04 mg/mL. The selected DES extracts, S7, S9, S11, and S13, exhibited low cytotoxic effects on RAW264.7 cells and exhibited the most substantial reduction in nitic oxide levels. The selected DES extract with high bioactivities, S7, exhibited a high rutin and kaempferol content at 7.87 ± 0.01 mg rutin/g extract and 25.36 ± 0.08 mg kaempferol/g extract in the active content determination by HPLC assay. The cosmetic formulations containing S7 exhibited excellent stability after the stability test. This study illustrated the potential of DES extracts for further development in novel cosmetic products.

Nanocomposite gel containing usnic acid: Characterization and evaluation of the antibacterial efficacy on Staphylococcus epidermidis

Usnic acid (UA) is one of the most abundant secondary metabolites of lichens. Its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antitumor properties make it one of the few commercially available lichens compounds. Owing to its low solubility it has limited application, for that reason encapsulation in polymeric micelles (UA-PM) has been used to solve this aspect. Then, the obtained dispersion has been incorporated into a Sepigel-based gel for skin application (UA-PM-GEL). Polymeric micelles consisting of Soluplus, Solutol HS15 and D-α-tocopherol polyethylene glycol 1000 succinate (TPGS) were characterized in terms of size, polydispersity index, Zeta potential and morphological analysis. The nanocomposite gel (UA-PM-GEL) was characterized by determining the rheological behaviour, pH, UA recovery, physical and chemical stability and texture characteristics during one-month storage. The dialysis bag method and vertical diffusion Franz cell apparatus were used to determine the UA release from UA-PM and UA-PM-GEL. Skin-PAMPA assay allowed to evaluate the influence of micelles and nanocomposite formulation on the in vitro passive permeability of UA. In addition, the antibacterial activity of UA-PM and UA-PM-GEL was evaluated on the Staphylococcus epidermidis bacterial strain. The micellar formulation significantly increased both the solubility and the permeability of the UA, as indicated by the Pe value obtained by Skin-PAMPA test. The release of the active ingredient, although more gradual than the colloidal dispersion, was not hindered by the viscosity of the gel system, as demonstrated by the release studies. The rheological properties of the gel outlined a good spreadability, adhesion and viscosity, suggesting easy application and removal from the application site. The pH values also proved to be suitable for skin application. The formulation was chemically and physically stable for 30 days, with a percentage of loss of the active ingredient less than 10 %. Finally, both the micelles and the nanocomposite gel revealed an effective antibacterial activity, representing a promising approach for the treatment of skin infections.

Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review

Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check-all-that-apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.

Unraveling the Impact of the Oil Phase on the Physicochemical Stability and Skin Permeability of Melatonin Gel Formulations

Melatonin's antioxidant properties make it a valuable component in anti-aging semisolid topical products. This study explores the role of Pemulen®, an acrylic-based viscosifying agent, in stabilizing cream-gel formulations. Remarkably, even at low concentrations (0.4%), Pemulen® successfully produced physicochemical stable topical formulations. In this work, the impact of the ratio of the oily phase-comprising olive oil and isopropyl myristate from 0 to 20%-was investigated to understand the internal microstructure effect on skin permeability, rheological properties, and stability. The formulations exhibited pseudoplastic behavior, with a significant positive correlation (p-value < 0.1) between the oily phase ratio, viscosity, spreadability, skin adhesiveness, and permeability. Formulations without the oil phase exhibited greater skin permeability. However, higher oily phase content enhanced viscosity, spreadability, and skin adhesion. Given that melatonin primarily degrades through oxidation, incorporating antioxidant excipients in semisolid formulations is crucial for maintaining its chemical stability. A quality by design (QbD) approach was used to assess the impact of four excipients-(a) DL-α-tocopheryl acetate (0.05%), (b) ascorbic acid (0.1%), (c) ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (0.1%), and (d) sodium metabisulphite (0.5%)-on melatonin's stability. Our findings indicate that maintaining the physical stability of the formulation with a 20% oil phase is more critical for protecting melatonin from oxidation than merely adding antioxidant excipients.

Conductive extracellular matrix derived/chitosan methacrylate/ graphene oxide-pegylated hybrid hydrogel for cell expansion

Electrical stimulation has emerged as a cornerstone technique in the rapidly evolving field of biomedical engineering, particularly within the realms of tissue engineering and regenerative medicine. It facilitates cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation, thereby advancing the development of accurate tissue models and enhancing drug-testing methodologies. Conductive hydrogels, which enable the conduction of microcurrents in 3D in vitro cultures, are central to this advancement. The integration of high-electroconductive nanomaterials, such as graphene oxide (GO), into hydrogels has revolutionized their mechanical and conductivity properties. Here, we introduce a novel electrostimulation assay utilizing a hybrid hydrogel composed of methacryloyl-modified small intestine submucosa (SIS) dECM (SISMA), chitosan methacrylate (ChiMA), and GO-polyethylene glycol (GO-PEG) in a 3D in vitro culture within a hypoxic environment of umbilical cord blood cells (UCBCs). Results not only demonstrate significant cell proliferation within 3D constructs exposed to microcurrents and early growth factors but also highlight the hybrid hydrogel's physiochemical prowess through comprehensive rheological, morphological, and conductivity analyses. Further experiments will focus on identifying the regulatory pathways of cells subjected to electrical stimulation.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

Sensory signature of lignins, new generation of bio-based ingredients in cosmetics

Lignins represent a high interest in cosmetics as promising multifunctional ingredients. Despite this, uncovering the sensory profile of lignin-based emulsions has remained an unexplored frontier. This study aims to bridge this gap by employing expert sensory evaluation and instrumental characterization to assess the sensory attributes of lignin-based emulsions. A comparative analysis with commercial tinted products and discrimination among lignin derivatives were integral components of the research. Results underscored the distinctive sensory properties of lignin emulsions, exhibiting significantly higher "Integrity of shape" (7.0 ± 0.1) compared to commercial products (4.8 ± 0.1). Additionally, lignin emulsions displayed longer play-time until skin absorption (4.3 ± 0.1), contrasting with the quicker absorption of commercial products (2.7 ± 0.4) and their shorter play-time. Depending on application requirements, lignin derivatives offer formulators a versatile sensory toolbox. Discrimination of lignin emulsions on certain texture properties was achieved using various instrumental tools. Despite the complex formulation of commercial products compared to lignin emulsions, similar texture properties were observed, showcasing lignins' potential to replace multiple ingredients in tinted cosmetics. Beyond their established antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-bacterial, and emulsifying properties, this study reveals additional advantageous sensory properties of lignins, positioning them as promising plant-based sensory ingredients in sustainable cosmetic applications.

Study of molecular interaction and texture characteristics of hydrocolloid-mixed alginate microspheres: As a shell to encapsulate multiphase oil cores

This work investigates the molecular interaction of hydrocolloids (xanthan gum (XG), hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), carbomer (CBM) and hymagic™-4D (HA)) with sodium alginate (SA) in microspheres in detail. The molecular interaction of hydrocolloids with SA are demonstrated by the rheological property analysis of the mixed solutions as well as the morphology structure and texture characteristics studies of the microspheres. It is found that the hydrocolloids (XG, HEC and CBM) with branches or capable to coil are able to form complex networks with SA through molecular interactions which hinders the free diffusion of calcium ions and changes the texture characteristics of microspheres. In addition, the mixed solutions (SA-XG and SA-HEC) with complex networks and do not have a chelating effect on calcium ions are used to form the shell of the microcapsules through droplet microfluidic technology, and stable with soft microcapsules encapsulating multiphase oil cores have been successfully prepared. At the same time, the textural properties of microcapsules are quantized, which are related to human sensory properties. The developed stable and soft microcapsules which have the properties of sensory comfort are expected to be applied in the personal care industry and a variety of fields.

Topical Formulations Based on Ursolic Acid-Loaded Nanoemulgel with Potential Application in Psoriasis Treatment

Psoriasis is a chronic disorder that causes a rash with itchy, scaly patches. It affects nearly 2-5% of the worldwide population and has a negative effect on patient quality of life. A variety of therapeutic approaches, e.g., glucocorticoid topical therapy, have shown limited efficacy with systemic adverse reactions. Therefore, novel therapeutic agents and physicochemical formulations are in constant need and should be obtained and tested in terms of effectiveness and minimization of side effects. For that reason, the aim of our study was to design and obtain various hybrid systems, nanoemulgel-macroemulsion and nanoemulgel-oleogel (bigel), as vehicles for ursolic acid (UA) and to verify their potential as topical formulations used in psoriasis treatment. Obtained topical formulations were characterized by conducting morphological, rheological, texture, and stability analysis. To determine the safety and effectiveness of the prepared ursolic acid carriers, in vitro studies on human keratinocyte cell-like HaCaT cells were performed with cytotoxicity analysis for individual components and each formulation. Moreover, a kinetic study of ursolic acid release from the obtained systems was conducted. All of the studied UA-loaded systems were well tolerated by keratinocyte cells and had suitable pH values and stability over time. The obtained formulations exhibit an apparent viscosity, ensuring the appropriate time of contact with the skin, ease of spreading, soft consistency, and adherence to the skin, which was confirmed by texture tests. The release of ursolic acid from each of the formulations is followed by a slow, controlled release according to the Korsmeyer-Peppas and Higuchi models. The elaborated systems could be considered suitable vehicles to deliver triterpene to psoriatic skin.

Characteristics of a Lipid Hydrogel and Bigel as Matrices for Ascorbic Acid Stabilization

Ascorbic acid (AA) has many health benefits, including immune and cardiovascular deficiency protection, prenatal problems, and skin diseases. Unfortunately, AA is easily oxidized and has limited bioavailability. Thus, the development of formulations that stabilize and enhance the efficacy of AA is a challenge. In this study, 4% AA was encapsulated in two recently developed gels, a hydrogel and a bigel. The hydrogel was formed exclusively with lipids and water, and the bigel was a combination of the hydrogel with an oleogel formed with olive oil and beeswax. The effect of AA in gel microstructures was determined using X-ray scattering, rheology, and texture analysis. Additionally, the capacity of these materials to protect AA from degradation upon temperature and sunlight was studied. Results showed that the incorporation of AA into both materials did not affect their microstructure. Moreover, hydrogel-protected AA showed only 2% degradation after three months at 8 °C, while in aqueous solution, it degraded by 12%. Regarding sunlight, bigel showed a good shielding effect, exhibiting only 2% AA degradation after 22 h of exposure, whereas in aqueous solution, AA degraded by 10%. These results suggest that both proposed gels could be used in biomedical applications and the field of food.

In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy of Topical Dosage Forms Containing Self-Nanoemulsifying Drug Delivery System Loaded with Curcumin

The external use of curcumin is rare, although it can be a valuable active ingredient in the treatment of certain inflammatory diseases. The aim of our experimental work was to formulate topical dosage forms containing curcumin for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Curcumin has extremely poor solubility and bioavailability, so we have tried to increase it with the usage of self-emulsifying drug delivery systems. Creams and gels were formulated using penetration-enhancing surfactants and gelling agents. The release of the drug from the vehicle and its penetration through the membrane were determined using a Franz diffusion cell. An MTT cytotoxicity and in vitro antioxidant assays were performed on HaCaT cell line. The in vivo anti-inflammatory effect of the preparations was tested by measuring rat paw edema. In addition, we examined the degree of inflammation induced by UV radiation after pretreatment with the cream and the gel on rats. For the gels containing SNEDDS, the highest penetration was measured after half an hour, while for the cream, it took one hour to reach the maximum concentration. The gel containing Pemulen TR-1 showed the highest drug release. It was determined that the curcumin-containing preparations can be safely applied on the skin and have antioxidant effects. The animal experiments have proven the effectiveness of curcumin-containing topical preparations.

Development of multifunctional sunscreens: Evaluation of physico-mechanical and film-forming properties

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the in vivo SPF, sensory, physico-mechanical, and film-forming properties of sunscreens containing a biopolymer from Tara and red algae. A clinical study of the film-forming effect and of skin hydration was performed by instrumental measurements and by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The SPF of both formulations, with or without the biopolymer, was 45.6. This result was 10.09% higher than expected. higher than expected. However, the sunscreen added to the biopolymer showed better sensory and texture properties, significantly increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. The film-forming property was observed by the analysis of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images 2, 4, and 6 h after formulation application, and this result was more pronounced for the sunscreen added to the biopolymer. Thus, the film-forming property of the biopolymer was important for prolonging the skin barrier function due to film formation and to obtain more effective and multifunctional sunscreens that provide longer protection.

Formulation and Physical Characterization of a Polysaccharidic Gel for the Vehiculation of an Insoluble Phytoextract for Mucosal Application

Maintaining insoluble plant-based ingredients in suspension and ensuring long-term physical stability is particularly challenging for formulators of green cosmetics. This study aimed to evaluate the structure and applicative properties of gel and gel-cream topical formulations suitable for delivering an insoluble phytocomplex on the vaginal mucosa and maintaining its integrity. For this purpose, we studied the compatibility of Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton phytocomplex (PFP), derived from in vitro plant cell cultures and presented as a powder finely dispersed in glycerin, with different classes of natural rheological modifiers (such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglycan, xyloglucan, diutan gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum derivative) in gel and gel-cream formulations, to meet the needs of the cosmetic market for naturalness and biodegradability. Through rheological and texture analyses, we studied the physico–mechanical properties of the samples, comparing the performances of the chosen polysaccharides to those of acrylic polymeric rheological modifiers, evaluating their contribution in terms of stability and applicative properties. Since a weak-gel rheological pattern proved to be the optimal one to keep the actives in suspension, the associations of tamarind seed polysaccharides with succinoglycan or scleroglucan were the most suitable for the formulation of mucoadhesive gels.

Chemical and mechanical accelerated and long-term stability evaluation of sunscreen formulation containing grape seed extract

BACKGROUND

Sunscreens and catechins from grape seed extract (GSE) are sensitive to various environmental factors and undergo certain changes over time that might affect the effectiveness of the final product. To this date, effects of thermal storage conditions have not been sufficiently addressed to guarantee the long-term stability of sunscreen formulations.

AIMS

To study the chemical and mechanical accelerated and long-term stability of sunscreen formulation containing GSE at the Climatic Zone IVb conditions.

METHODS

Stability studies were performed for 6 months for accelerated stability study at 30°C ± 2 and 50°C ± 2, 75 ± 5% relative humidity; and long-term stability study at 5°C ± 5. The quantification of constituents of three formulations: sunscreen with GSE, cream with UV filters only, and cream with GSE only was performed by high-performance liquid chromatography. In vitro spectrophotometry was used to determine changes in sun protection effectiveness through SPF and UVAPF values. Mechanical stability was evaluated by textural and rheological analyzes.

RESULTS

All tested formulations were less stable at high-temperature conditions. The contents of catechin (С) and epicatechin (EC) in sunscreen with GSE were reduced to 37% and 50% at 50°C, respectively, whereas UV filters appeared to be stable. However, despite the significant reduction in catechins over time, polyphenols in GSE remained unchanged at different stored conditions. The SPF values and water resistance of sunscreen with GSE were maintained throughout the study.

CONCLUSIONS

A current in vitro study has shown that sunscreen with GSE is a value-added anti-aging ingredient in sunscreen formulation because its polyphenolic composition as well as SPF values and water resistance were maintained under all temperature conditions over time.

Dermal exposure to synthetic musks: Human health risk assessment, mechanism, and control strategy

Synthetic musks (SMs) have been widely used as odor additives in personal care products (PCPs). Dermal exposure to SMs is the main pathway of the accumulation of these chemicals in human kerateins and poses potential health risks. In this study, in silico methods were established to reduce the human health risk of SMs from dermal exposure by investigating the risk mechanisms, designing lower bioaccumulation ability SMs and suggesting proper PCP ingredients using molecular docking, molecular dynamics simulation, and quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR) models. The binding energy, a parameter reflecting the binding ability of SMs and human keratin protein (4ZRY), was used as the indicator to assess the human health risk of SMs. According to the mechanism analysis, total energy was found as the most influential molecular structural feature influencing the bioaccumulation ability of a SM, and as one of the main factors influencing the function (i.e., odor sensitivity) of an SM. The 3D-QSAR models were constructed to control the human health risk of SMs by designing lower-risk SMs derivatives. The phantolide (PHAN)- 58 was determined to be the optimum SM derivative with lower bioaccumulation ability (reduced 17.25%) and improved odor sensitivity (increased 7.91%). A further reduction of bioaccumulation ability of PHAN-58 was found when adding proper body wash ingredients (i.e., alkyl ethoxylate sulfate (AES), dimethyloldimethyl (DMDM), EDTA-Na4, ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS), hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), lemon yellow and octyl glucose), leading to a significant reduction of the bioaccumulation ability (42.27%) compared with that of PHAN. Results demonstrated that the proposed theoretical mechanism and control strategies could effectively reduce the human health risk of SMs from dermal exposure.

Using texture analyzer to characterize pecan and olive oil tactile properties, compare to viscometer analysis, and link to fatty acid profile and total polyphenols

This study aimed to characterize mechanical properties of five pecan oils and one olive oil using a texture analyzer compared to a rotational viscometer; results were linked to fatty acid profile and total polyphenol content. The seven texture parameters (firmness, consistency, cohesiveness, viscosity index, stickiness at 5 sec, stickiness at 30 sec, and delta stickiness) showed significant difference (p≤0.05) among the six oils. Overall, olive oil had higher texture analysis values and significantly higher rotational viscosity than pecan oils. Chemically, C18 fatty acids accounted for approximately 90% of the total fatty acids in the five pecan oils. Olive oil had a higher amount of long-chain, unsaturated fatty acids. Total polyphenols in pecan oils were 8-15 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/100 g, while olive oil contained 27.2 mg GAE/100 g. Correlation analysis demonstrated a significant, positive relationship between "consistency" texture and rotational viscosity measurement. Mechanical properties (seven texture parameters and rotational viscosity) were partially correlated to fatty acid profile, though no universal pattern was identified. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: Pecan is among the most commonly consumed tree nuts worldwide, while pecan oil is part of the emerging healthy, edible oil niche market. Few studies have investigated pecan oil sensory quality and associated physicochemical compositions for aroma, taste, and texture and pecan oil textural parameters have not been characterized. This study characterized pecan oil with seven textural parameters correlated to rotational viscosity and chemical composition, providing a novel instrumental approach to characterize edible oil textural properties. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Study for Evaluation of Hydrogels after the Incorporation of Liposomes Embedded with Caffeic Acid

Caffeic acid (CA), a phenolic acid, is a powerful antioxidant with proven effectiveness. CA instability gives it limited use, so encapsulation in polymeric nanomaterials has been used to solve the problem but also to obtain topical hydrogel formulas. Two different formulas of caffeic acid liposomes were incorporated into three different formulas of carbopol-based hydrogels. A Franz diffusion cell system was used to evaluate the release of CA from hydrogels. For the viscoelastic measurements of the hydrogels, the equilibrium flow test was used. The dynamic tests were examined at rest by three oscillating tests: the amplitude test, the frequency test and the flow and recovery test. These carbopol gels have a high elasticity at flow stress even at very low polymer concentrations. In the analysis of the texture, the increase of the polymer concentration from 0.5% to 1% determined a linear increase of the values of the textural parameters for hydrogels. The textural properties of 1% carbopol-based hydrogels were slightly affected by the addition of liposomal vesicle dispersion and the firmness and shear work increased with increasing carbomer concentration.

Development and Characterization of Emulsions Containing Ground Seeds of Passiflora Species as Biobased Exfoliating Agents

Ground seeds from three species of the genus Passiflora, P. ligularis, P. edulis Sims fo edulis, and P. mollissima, were obtained by extraction, drying, grinding, and sieving, and their physicochemical properties (morphology, hardness, and proximal analysis) were compared to those of commercial exfoliant seeds from passion fruit. Particle sizes between 0.5 and 1 mm were obtained, and their properties were similar to the commercial product except for the extractable material content that was higher. Subsequently, prototypes of an exfoliating cosmetic product were developed by using the ground seeds as the main active ingredient. Rheology characterization of samples enables to verify that the particles have minor effects on emulsion properties and that the emulsion is stable even after thermal treatment. In particular, the pH of the emulsion decreased when using the obtained ground seeds. This is consistent with the extraction and solvation of organic acids into the emulsion, in particular, alpha-hydroxy acids, which are present in high concentrations in Passiflora species. This indicates that the prepared emulsions could have a synergic chemical and physical exfoliating activity and could be used in cosmetic products.

Textural and sensory characterization of carbomeric gels with panthenol

Introduction. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of the carbomer concentration (used as the gelling agent, in the range 0.5 - 2.0%) on textural and sensory characteristics of gels with 3% panthenol using sensory analysis as subjective and texture analysis as an objective assessment method. An active substance in the gels was panthenol, which also acted as a neutralizing agent of the carbomer. Participants and methods. Twenty female panelists, aged between 20 and 36, participated in the sensory study and had to fulfill a questionnaire regarding product attributes before, during and after application on the skin. Texture analysis was performed on CT3 Texture Analyzer, after each week for a month, and the following parameters were calculated: hardness cycle 1, hardness cycle 2, cohesiveness, adhesiveness, resilience and springiness. Results. The results showed that gels were stable over time and the structure of the gels was preserved regardless of compression. An increase in hardness and resilience was followed by an increase in the concentration of carbomer, while adhesiveness, cohesiveness and springiness did not differ much among different gels. The same trend was noticed when gels were compared during time. Sensory analysis confirmed findings of texture analysis and showed that with the increment of carbomer concentration, stickiness and density also enhanced, while absorption rate and spreadability decreased. Gel with 1% carbomer was chosen by the majority of panelists as favorite and as a gel they would regularly use. Conclusion. The methods of textural and sensory analysis represent valuable approaches in drug/cosmetic product design because they offer insight in the compliance of patients/consumers.

Comparative Analysis of the Chemical Composition and Physicochemical Properties of the Mucilage Extracted from Fresh and Dehydrated Opuntia ficus indica Cladodes

The development of sustainable extraction methods to obtain natural products constitutes a challenge for the food industry. The aim of this work was to compare yield, separation efficiency, chemical composition, and physicochemical properties of the mucilage extracted from fresh cladodes (FNM) and mucilage extracted from dehydrated cladodes (DNM) of O. ficus indica. Suspensions of fresh and dehydrated cladodes (4% w/w) were prepared for mucilage extraction by using a mechanical separation process. Subsequently, the separated mucilage was precipitated with ethyl alcohol (1:2 v/v) then, yield and separation efficiency were determined. The mucilage was characterized by measuring Z potential, viscosity, color, and texture attributes. Additionally, chemical proximate analysis, scanning electron microscopy, and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) were conducted. No significant differences (p < 0.05) were detected in the yield and separation efficiencies between samples. Nevertheless, the dehydration process of cladodes prior to mucilage extraction increased protein, ashes, nitrogen free extract, and calcium content. The viscosity was higher in DNM than in FNM. The TGA revealed a different thermal behavior between samples. In addition, the DNM showed lower L (darkness/lightness), cohesiveness, adhesiveness, and springiness values than those of FNM. These results support that differences found between the chemical and physicochemical properties of DNM and those of FNM will determine the applications of the mucilage obtained from the O. ficus indica cladodes in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Characterization of Polysaccharidic Associations for Cosmetic Use: Rheology and Texture Analysis

As public attention on sustainability is increasing, the use of polysaccharides as rheological modifiers in skin-care products is becoming the first choice. Polysaccharide associations can be used to increase the spreading properties of products and to optimize their sensorial profile. Since the choice of natural raw materials for cosmetics is wide, instrumental methodologies are useful for formulators to easily characterize the materials and to create mixtures with specific applicative properties. In this work, we performed rheological and texture analyses on samples formulated with binary and ternary associations of polysaccharides to investigate their structural and mechanical features as a function of the concentration ratios. The rheological measurements were conducted under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions using a rotational rheometer. An immersion/de-immersion test conducted with a texture analyzer allowed us to measure some textural parameters. Sclerotium gum and iota-carrageenan imparted high viscosity, elasticity, and firmness in the system; carob gum and pectin influenced the viscoelastic properties and determined high adhesiveness and cohesiveness. The results indicated that these natural polymers combined in appropriate ratios can provide a wide range of different textures and that the use of these two complementary techniques represents a valid pre-screening tool for the formulation of green products.

The rheologically-complex fluid beauty of nail lacquer formulations

Nail lacquer formulations are multi-ingredient complex fluids with additives that affect color, smell, texture, evaporation rate, viscosity, stability, leveling behavior, consumer's sensory experience, and dried coating's decorative and wear performance. Optimizing and characterizing the formulation rheology is critical for achieving longer shelf-life, better control over the nail painting process and adhesion, continuous manufacturing of large product volumes, and increasing overall consumer satisfaction. Dispensing, bottle filling, brush application, and dripping, as well as perceived tackiness of nail polishes, all involve capillarity-driven pinching flows associated with strong extensional deformation fields. However, a significant lack of characterization of pinching dynamics and extensional rheology response of multicomponent formulations, especially particle suspensions in viscoelastic solutions, motivates this study. Here, we characterize the shear rheology response of twelve commercial nail lacquer formulations using torsional rheometry and characterize pinching dynamics and extensional rheology response using dripping-onto-substrate (DoS) rheometry protocols we developed. We visualize and analyze brush loading, nail coating, dripping from brush, sagging, and lacquer application on a nail to outline the challenges posed by free-surface flows and non-Newtonian rheology. We find that the radius evolution over time obtained using DoS rheometry displays power law exponents distinct from those exhibited in shear thinning. Both shear and extensional viscosity decrease with deformation rate. However, the extensional viscosity appears to be rate-independent at the highest rates and displays nearly an order of magnitude larger values than the high shear rate viscosity. We envision that the findings and protocols described here will help and motivate industrial scientists to design better multicomponent formulations through a better characterization and understanding of the influence of ingredients like particles and polymers on rheology, processing, and applications.

p-Coumaric acid loaded into liquid crystalline systems as a novel strategy to the treatment of vulvovaginal candidiasis

Vulvovaginal candidiasis (VVC) is an extremely common type of vaginal infection, which is mainly caused by Candida albicans. However, non-albicans Candida species are frequently more resistant to conventional antifungal agents and can represent up to 30% of cases. Due to side effects and increasing antifungal resistance presented by standard therapies, phenolic compounds, such as p-coumaric acid (p-CA), have been studied as molecules from natural sources with potential antifungal activity. p-CA is a poorly water-soluble compound, thus loading it into liquid crystals (LCs) may increase its solubility and effectiveness on the vaginal mucosa. Thereby, here we propose the development of mucoadhesive liquid crystalline systems with controlled release of p-CA, for the local treatment of VVC. Developed LCs consisted of fixed oily and aqueous phases (oleic acid and cholesterol (5:1) and poloxamer dispersion 16%, respectively), changing only the surfactant phase components (triethanolamine oleate (TEA-Oleate) or triethanolamine (TEA), the latter producing TEA-Oleate molecules when mixed with oleic acid). Systems were also diluted in artificial vaginal mucus (1:1 ratio) to mimic the vaginal environment and verify possible structural changes on formulations upon exposure to the mucosa. From the characterization assays, p-CA loaded TEA-Oleate systems presented mucoadhesive profile, liquid crystalline mesophases, well-organized structures and pseudoplastic behaviour, which are desirable parameters for topical formulations. Moreover, they were able to control the release of p-CA throughout the 12 h assay, as well as decrease its permeation into the vaginal mucosa. p-CA showed antifungal activity in vitro against reference strains of C. albicans (SC5314), C. glabrata (ATCC 2001) and C. krusei (ATCC 6258), and exhibited higher eradication of mature biofilms than amphotericin B and fluconazole. In vivo experiments demonstrated that the formulations reduced the presence of filamentous forms in the vaginal lavages and provided an improvement in swelling and redness present in the mice vaginal regions. Altogether, here we demonstrated the potential and feasibility of using p-CA loaded liquid crystalline systems as a mucoadhesive drug delivery system for topical treatment of VVC.

Tragacanth Gum/Chitosan Polyelectrolyte Complexes-Based Hydrogels Enriched with Xanthan Gum as Promising Materials for Buccal Application

Polyelectrolyte complexes based on the electrostatic interactions between the polymers mixed are of increasing importance, therefore, the aim of this study was to develop hydrogels composed of anionic tragacanth gum and cationic chitosan with or without the addition of anionic xanthan gum as carriers for buccal drug delivery. Besides the routine quality tests evaluating the hydrogel’s applicability on the buccal mucosa, different methods directed toward the assessment of the interpolymer complexation process (e.g., turbidity or zeta potential analysis, scanning electron microscopy and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy) were employed. The addition of xanthan gum resulted in stronger complexation of chitosan that affected the hydrogel’s characteristics. The formation of a more viscous PEC hydrogel with improved mucoadhesiveness and mechanical strength points out the potential of such polymer combination in the development of buccal drug dosage forms.

Development and Evaluation of a Novel Oral Mucoadhesive Ointment Containing Pomegranate Peel Extract as an Adjuvant for Oral Hygiene of Dogs

Herbal therapies are used worldwide to treat a variety of health conditions, including dental conditions in veterinary medicine. In this context, the use of medicinal plant-based formulations as potential therapeutics and preventatives in veterinary dentistry is worth highlighting. The objective of the present study was to develop a mucoadhesive ointment formulation, named orabase, that contained pomegranate extract for use in the oral cavity of dogs, with the aim of improving their oral hygiene. The hydroalcoholic extracts of pomegranate peels was incorporated into the orabase in 3 different concentrations. The formulations were subjected to in vitro microbiological testing by a modified disc-diffusion method to study the susceptibility of microorganisms collected from the oral cavities of the dogs. The samples were taken from the buccal mucosa of dogs having the same management and diet. The most effective formulation was submitted to physicochemical tests to evaluate the functionality of the product, namely pH, swelling index, spreadability, and mechanical properties (hardness, cohesiveness, and adhesiveness). The formulation containing 25.0% w/w of the extract was considered most suitable for the intended use as it showed antiseptic activity and demonstrated a swelling index of approximately 35% in the first 20 minutes of the test, high spreadability, and suitable mechanical properties. The results suggest that the product obtained from pomegranate peel extract is a viable option for use to improve oral hygiene, helping to reduce the bacterial component of dental plaque in dogs.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations Containing Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Sun Protection Factor, Physical-Mechanical and Sensorial Properties

The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation emitted by the sun are cumulative and can result in chemical changes such as the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to the regular use of sunscreen. As an alternative, the use of antioxidants, such as quercetin, into sunscreen can control these effects and provide additional skin photoprotection. However, quercetin presents low stability and poor permeation, alternatively, the encapsulation in nanoparticles can improve the stability and skin permeation. Thus, this study aimed to develop photoprotective formulations containing nanoencapsulated quercetin, characterize the physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, and evaluate the influence of nanocarriers on sun protection factor (SPF) and the immediate clinical effects. Sunscreen formulations with or without antioxidants in a free form or loaded in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) were developed. After the stability, rheological behavior, texture profile, and in vivo SPF (sun protector factor) evaluation, sixty female participants, aged between 20 and 35 years, were enclosed to evaluate the sensorial properties and immediate clinical effects of the formulation in the skin hydration using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The correlation of rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensory properties enabled the correct choice of formulation ingredients. In addition, the use of NLCs with quercetin significantly improved the SPF in vivo of the developed photoprotective formulation, without increasing the amount of UV filters. Finally, the association of NLCs in the photoprotective formulation showed synergistic effects in the SPF and an improvement in the skin barrier function and hydration.

The Influence of pH Values on the Rheological, Textural and Release Properties of Carbomer Polacril® 40P-Based Dental Gel Formulation with Plant-Derived and Synthetic Active Components

The physicochemical properties, especially pH value of dental medicines, have significant influence on the health of oral cavity tissues. The pH of formulations should correspond to the value of saliva pH (5.5–8.0). For carbomer-based gels, the required pH value is obtained by neutralizing them with alkaline components, which leads to their structuring (thickening). This affects the physical properties of the gel, its residence time at the application site and the rate of release of active pharmaceutical ingredient. Therefore, the main purpose of this study is to evaluate the rheological, textural, and biopharmaceutical properties of Carbomer Polacril^® 40P-based dental gel depending on the pH value. Evaluation of the rheological properties of gel preparations were performed by measuring the structural viscosity of the samples as a function of pH and temperature. The textural properties of the gel were evaluated by performing tests regarding back extrusion and spreadability. Carbomer Polacril^® 40P-based gels haven’t shown noticeable thixotropic behavior, and were characterized by plastic flow in the whole studied pH range. The structural viscosity at the selected average pH value hasn’t differed at storage (25 °C) and application (37 °C) temperature. Texture studies of dental gels have shown a strong correlation with rheoparameters. Their rheological behavior and textural properties haven’t changed significantly between the pH range of 5.5–6.6. The relatively narrow range of working pH values does not affect the change in the viscosity of the preparation significantly and, consequently, does not affect the release of APIs from the developed Carbomer Polacril^® 40P-based dental gel.

Formulation of Creams Containing Spirulina Platensis Powder with Different Nonionic Surfactants for the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris

Natural products used in the treatment of acne vulgaris may be promising alternative therapies with fewer side effects and without antibiotic resistance. The objective of this study was to formulate creams containing Spirulina (Arthrospira) platensis to be used in acne therapy. Spirulina platensis belongs to the group of micro algae and contains valuable active ingredients. The aim was to select the appropriate nonionic surfactants for the formulations in order to enhance the diffusion of the active substance and to certify the antioxidant and antibacterial activity of Spirulina platensis-containing creams. Lyophilized Spirulina platensis powder (SPP) was dissolved in Transcutol HP (TC) and different types of nonionic surfactants (Polysorbate 60 (P60), Cremophor A6:A25 (CR) (1:1), Tefose 63 (TFS), or sucrose ester SP 70 (SP70)) were incorporated in creams as emulsifying agents. The drug release was evaluated by the Franz diffusion method and biocompatibility was tested on HaCaT cells. In vitro antioxidant assays were also performed, and superoxide dismutase (SOD) and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assays were executed. Antimicrobial activities of the selected compositions were checked against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Cutibacteriumacnes (C. acnes) (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) with the broth microdilution method. Formulations containing SP 70 surfactant with TC showed the most favorable dissolution profiles and were found to be nontoxic. This composition also showed significant increase in free radical scavenger activity compared to the blank sample and the highest SOD enzyme activity was also detected after treatment with the cream samples. In antibacterial studies, significant differences were observed between the treated and control groups after an incubation time of 6 h.

A Rapid Tool to Optimize Process Variables for Continuous Manufacturing of Metronidazole Ointment Using Melt Extrusion Technique

The use of hot-melt extrusion (HME) technique in the preparation of semi-solid products offers several advantages over conventional processes. However, the optimization of the technique for preparation of semi-solid pharmaceuticals is challenging due to involvement of ingredients with different physical properties. Hence, a simple tool to optimize the mixing of ingredients that results in a target ratio and drug content uniformity is utmost important. In this study, a handheld colorimeter has been explored to optimize the process variables of twin screw processor for preparation of hydrophilic PEG-based ointment. The process parameters which were optimized with use of handheld colorimeter have been used for preparation of polyethylene glycol-based metronidazole ointment. The metronidazole ointment prepared by twin screw processor was compared with commercially available metronidazole gel for in vitro release testing and ex vivo permeation. The flux, ex vivo bioavailability, and T_max of polyethylene glycol-based metronidazole ointment was found to be similar to that of marketed metronidazole gel.

Preparation and in vitro / in vivo evaluation of flurbiprofen nanosuspension-based gel for dermal application

Flurbiprofen (FB) is an analgesic and anti-inflammatory drug, but its low water solubility (BCS Class II) limits its dermal bioavailability. The aim of this study is to develop a FB nanosuspension (NS) based gel and to evaluate its analgesic and anti-inflammatory activities in rats. FB-NS was produced by the wet milling method with Plantacare 2000^Ⓡ, as stabilizer. The FB-NS was then incorporated in different carrier gels such as hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC), polycarbophil, oleogel, and chitosan. To select the optimum gel type, visual examinations, pH and rheological property measurements, texture profile analysis, in vitro release and ex vivo permeation studies were performed. Following these tests, the analgesic and anti-inflammatory activities of the optimum NS based gel were evaluated using the tail flick and carrageenan-induced paw edema methods consecutively. The NS was successfully prepared with the wet milling method, and the PS, PDI and ZP values were found to be 237.7 ± 6.8 nm, 0.133±0.030, and -30.4 ± 0.7 mV; respectively. Among the NS-based gels, HPMC gel showed more suitable rheological and mechanical properties, also the percentage of permeated FB and the flux value observed for HPMC gel were higher for HPMC than for the other gels. Thus, HPMC gel was selected as a carrier gel for in vivo pharmacodynamics studies. The anti-inflammatory activity of FB-NS HPMC gel was higher than that of the physical mixture gel and that of the coarse suspension gel. Results of our analgesic activity studies showed that, in the 180th min of FB nanosuspension treatment, the latency time was significantly prolonged compared to that of the control group (p<0.05). As a conclusion, while nanosuspensions increased the in vivo pharmacodynamics effect of FB by means of nanosized particles and a large surface area, the HPMC gel as a carrier prolonged the contact time of NSs with skin and eased the dermal application.

Influence of vegetable oils in the rheology, texture profile and sensory properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel

OBJECTIVE

The knowledge about how ingredients in formulation can influence the texture profile is an important factor on the development of a cosmetic product. In this context, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effect of vegetable oils in the texture profile, rheological and sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel.

METHODS

Four organogel-based emulsions were developed and supplemented or not with sunflower, macadamia or olive oils. Analyses of rheological behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties were performed.

RESULTS

The vegetable oils added to formulation did not alter the pseudoplastic rheological behaviour, but increased the area of hysteresis and reduced the work of shear of the formulations. In addition, the sunflower seed oil increased the consistency index and all texture parameters while the macadamia oil reduced firmness and consistency. The cosmetic formulation based on organogel containing the sunflower seed oil showed the highest score on sensory evaluation.

CONCLUSION

The vegetable oils affected the rheology behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties of the formulations under study. However, the influence of sunflower oil in organogel-based cosmetic formulation was more pronounced considering texture profile and the response perceived by subjects in the sensorial analysis.

Evaluating Natural Alternatives to Synthetic Acrylic Polymers: Rheological and Texture Analyses of Polymeric Water Dispersions

The natural cosmetics market is growing, in line with the interest of public opinion on environmental safety. The availability of polysaccharides for cosmetic use is very wide; each raw material has its own sensorial specificities and hardly matches the performance of synthetic polymers. We developed an instrumental protocol based on rheology and texture analysis to evaluate alternatives to acrylic polymers. The study has been carried out on a set of water dispersions prepared with different synthetic, semisynthetic, and natural polymers at different concentrations. Using statistical principal component analysis, three different clusters have been identified: group A includes polymers with a stringy viscoelastic behavior, group B includes polymers with low firmness and a weak-gel rheological pattern, and group C includes polymers which formed soft and elastic gels. This work showed that this instrumental approach is a powerful tool to comprehensively characterize new rheological modifiers and to forecast their contribution to the formulation based on their applicative features. Moreover, rheology and texture analysis turned out to be complementary tools useful to compare polymeric raw materials and to identify appropriate alternatives to synthetic ones in order to formulate green cosmetic products.

S-protected thiolated hyaluronic acid: In-situ crosslinking hydrogels for 3D cell culture scaffold

The purpose of this study was to synthesize S-protected thiolated hyaluronic acid (HA) and to evaluate its potential for 3D cell culture scaffold. S-protected thiolated HA was synthesized by the covalent attachment of N-acetyl-S-((3-((2,5-dioxopyrrolidin-1-yl)oxy)-3-oxopropyl)thio)cysteine hydrazide ligand to the HA. Hydrogels were characterized for texture, swelling behavior and rheological properties. Furthermore, the potential of S-protected thiolated HA hydrogels as a scaffold for tissue engineering was evaluated by cell proliferation studies with Caco-2 and NIH 3T3 cells. It showed enhanced cohesion upon addition of N-acetyl cysteine (NAC). Dynamic viscosity of S-protected thiolated HA hydrogel was increased up to 19.5-fold by addition of NAC and 10.1-fold after mixing with mucus. Furthermore, Caco-2 and NIH 3T3 cells encapsulated into hydrogels proliferated in-vitro. As this novel S-protected thiolated HA is stable towards oxidation and forms highly cohesive gels when getting into contact with endogenous thiols due to disulfide-crosslinking, it is a promising tool for 3D cell culture scaffold.

Development of an emulgel for the treatment of rosacea using quality by design approach

Objective: The aim of this study was to develop an emulgel for the treatment of rosacea, applying quality by design (QbD).Methods: An emulgel designed to release the active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), metronidazole and niacinamide, via an emollient formulation that favors residence time and attenuates facial redness would be an excellent vehicle to develop to treat rosacea. It was decided to design first a vehicle presenting the attributes established in the quality target product profile, and then, after selecting the best formulation, to load the APIs in it to optimize the final emulgel. A design of experiments was introduced to study the effect of formulation variables on quality attributes (adhesion, phase separation by mechanical stress and viscosity) of the emulgels. Response surface methodology and desirability functions were applied for data analysis. After optimization, the final emulgel was further characterized by assay and in vitro release of APIs, attenuation of facial redness, and compared to commercially available metronidazole products regarding API release.Results: The final emulgel gradually released both APIs, reaching approximately 88% within the first 4 h, and their profiles were well described by the Higuchi model. Only a light attenuation effect to conceal facial redness was achieved.Conclusions: A metronidazole and niacinamide emulgel, also providing cosmetic assistance, was developed using QbD. The emulgel releases metronidazole faster than the creams, but more gradually than the commercially available gel, providing a realistic time frame of drug delivery in accordance with the expected time of residence of the adhesive emulgel over the affected facial area.

Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 °C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 μg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 μg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 μg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 μg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

Gellan Gum Based Sol-to-Gel Transforming System of Natamycin Transfersomes Improves Topical Ocular Delivery

Short precorneal residence time and poor transocular membrane permeability are the major challenges associated with topical ocular drug delivery. In the present research, the efficiency of the electrolyte-triggered sol-to-gel-forming system of natamycin (NT) transfersomes was investigated for enhanced and prolonged ophthalmic delivery. Transfersomes were optimized by varying the molar ratios of phospholipid, sorbitan monostearate (Span) and tocopheryl polyethylene glycol succinate (TPGS). NT transfersome formulations (FNs) prepared with a 1:1 molar ratio of phospholipid-to-Span and low levels of TPGS showed optimal morphometric properties, and were thus selected to fabricate the in situ gelling system. Gellan gum-based (0.3% w/v) FN-loaded formulations (FNGs) immediately formed an in situ gel in the simulated tear fluid, with considerable viscoelastic characteristics. In vitro cytotoxicity in corneal epithelial cells and corneal histology studies demonstrated the ocular safety and cytocompatibility of these optimized formulations. Transcorneal permeability of NT from these formulations was significantly higher than in the control suspension. Moreover, the ocular disposition studies of NT, from the FNs and FNGs, in New Zealand male albino rabbits demonstrated the superiority of the electrolyte-sensitive FNGs in terms of NT delivery to the ocular tissues.

Mucoadhesive hydrogels for buccal drug delivery: In vitro-in vivo correlation study

AIM

It was the aim of this study to assess in vitro methods for the characterization of mucoadhesive hydrogels for their potential to predict the residence time on human buccal mucosa.

METHODS

Mixtures of hydrogels comprising hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), xanthan gum (XTGM), hyaluronic acid sodium salt (HA), sodium alginate (ALG), carbopol (CP) as well as polycarbophil (PCP) and porcine mucus were analysed for relative rheological synergism. Furthermore, hydrogels were characterized for their texture and mechanical properties. For the assessment of mucoadhesive strength of formulations tensile studies were performed on porcine buccal mucosa. To facilitate a direct comparability of data the residence time of stained hydrogels was determined ex vivo on porcine buccal mucosa and in the oral cavity of volunteers.

RESULTS

The extent of relative rheological synergism was in good agreement with data from in vivo residence time studies. Results of tensile studies were further effected by textural properties of hydrogels leading to a restricted correlation with data from the in vivo experiment. The resistance towards removal by artificial saliva flow ex vivo revealed the highest correlation to the in vivo experiment with increasing mucosal residence time in the rank order CP < HEC, HA, ALG, PCP < CMC < XTGM.

CONCLUSIONS

This overview of measurement principles to predict the residence time of hydrogels for buccal application in humans may be a potent tool for the development of semisolid intraoral formulations.

How to assess orodispersible film quality? A review of applied methods and their modifications

In recent years, there has been a tendency toward creating innovative, easy to use and patient-friendly drug delivery systems suitable for every consumer profile, which would ensure safety, stability and acceptability of a drug. One of the relatively novel and promising approaches is the manufacture of orodispersible films (ODFs), which is an upcoming area of interest in drug delivery. They are defined as polymer thin films that disintegrate in the oral cavity within seconds, without drinking water or chewing, and eliminate the risk of choking. Gaining special usefulness in therapies of children and the elderly, ODFs seem to fill the gap in the range of preparations available for these groups of patients. As no detailed monography of ODFs including testing methods and uniform requirements has been presented in any of the pharmacopoeias to date, the aim of this article is to give an overview of the applied testing methods, their modifications and innovative approaches related to ODF quality assessment.

Effective tool for assessment of the quality of barrier creams - relationships between rheological, textural and sensory properties

The efficiency of barier creams (BC) in the prevention of occupational skin diseases is closely related to their mechanical, rheological but also sensory properties. The measurement procedure we elaborated, which simulates the spreadability conditions on the skin and evaluation whether the structure reconstruction occurs (hysteresis loop test, shear rate dependence of normal force), allows the assessment of the effectivness of the BC in terms of mechanical resistance and its adhesion to the skin surface. In this thesis an effort was made to define the impact of the human factor - the product application on skin - on the efficiency of medical devices for cutaneous use. Creams' performance such as the spreadability or the feeling on the skin during and after application, which mostly determine users willingness to use them systematically and rigorously, have been linked to parameters obtained during the structure analysis and to rheological properties. Moreover an attempt has been made to correlate the values of basic textural properties with rheological parameters determined by viscoelasticity and classic flow analysis. Instrumental analysis of selected BC products demonstrated a good correlation with organoleptic tests carried out on probands. The applicability of our tool for quality evaluation of BC has been confirmed.

Design and Characterization of Topical Formulations: Correlations Between Instrumental and Sensorial Measurements

The interaction between cosmetic emulsions and the skin's surface is an important factor to consider in the development of topical formulations. Two important ingredients in cosmetic formulations are waxes and polymers. The physical and mechanical properties of formulations directly impact the interface skin-formulation. To evaluate this interaction, it is important to study the rheology, texture, and sensory properties. In this context, the aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of waxes and polymers on the rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensorial properties of topical formulations and the correlation between these parameters. The best combination of a wax and a polymer was determined by full factorial design of experiments and applied to develop eight formulations that were tested in relation to rheological, mechanical, and sensorial properties. The polymer helps with the spreadability of the formulation, and the wax had a strong influence on the parameters related to the structure of emulsions. A correlation between these parameters was observed. This way, it was possible to compare theoretical and practical data, except between the flow index and the work of shear. Finally, it was possible to predict sensorial aspects from rheological and texture parameters, making the formulation process easier and more integrated with all stages of the development of new topical formulations. Thus, the present study introduces a new proposal in the development of cosmetics.