The effect of physically applied alpha hydroxyl acids on the skin pore and comedone

Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex

PURPOSE

This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations.

METHODS

The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters.

RESULTS

The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed.

CONCLUSION

The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

Dual intervention on the gut and skin microbiota attenuates facial cutaneous aging

The gut and skin microbiota are microbial barriers, resisting harmful foreign microorganisms and maintaining internal homeostasis. Dysbiosis of the gut and skin microbiota is involved in aging progression. However, interventions targeting facial skin wellness taking into account the gut-skin axis are scarce. In this study, the impact of an eight-week intervention with oral (O), topical (T), and both oral and topical (OT) xylo-oligosaccharides (XOS) by regulating gut and skin microbiota on facial cutaneous aging was investigated in a double-blind placebo-controlled trial in females. An increase in the proportion of participants with skin rejuvenation was observed, along with a significant reduction in facial pores after OT intervention. The reduction of cutaneous Cutibacterium by OT intervention was greater than that in the O and T groups. These interventions can change the skin microbial structure. Intestinal Bifidobacterium was enriched only by dual treatment with oral and topical XOS. Function prediction analysis revealed a decrease in K02770 encoding fructose-1-phosphate kinase involved in de novo lipid synthesis from fructose with dual intervention, suggesting that inhibition of lipophilic Cutibacterium may contribute to reducing facial pores. Overall, the dual XOS intervention approach is most effective for improving both gut and skin microbiota, as well as facial skin aging.

Combining superpulse dynamic CO2 laser and supramolecular salicylic acid in the treatment of dense comedones with higher clearance in a shorter time: A prospective, randomized, split-face clinical trial

OBJECTIVES

Dense comedones are common in patients with acne vulgaris, and promoting treatment can prevent the progression of acne lesions. However, the efficacy-time conflict makes the treatment challenging and the medication options are limited by the side effects.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Thirty-five patients with symmetrical dense comedones were enrolled and the two sides of the face were randomly assigned to receive 30% supramolecular salicylic acid (SSA) combined with CO2 laser or CO2 laser monotherapy at an interval of 2 weeks for six treatment sessions. Comedones count, porphyrin index (PI), texture index (TI), melanin index, erythema index, hydration index (HI), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and side effects were recorded at each visit till the 12th week.

RESULTS

Thirty-one patients completed the study. Comedones on the combined-SSA side were reduced more after six treatments, that the mean reduction rate of the combined-SSA side was 85.76%, and that of the CO2 laser-treated side was 62.32% (Pbetween  < 0.001). Combining SSA also showed a better effect on reducing PI and TI than CO2 laser singly (Pbetween  < 0.001). TEWL and HI between the two sides showed no significant differences after treatments. No permanent or severe side effects were observed on both side.

CONCLUSIONS

The treatment combined CO2 laser with 30% SSA dealt with the efficacy-time conflict while significantly reducing comedones and improving skin texture in 12 weeks and no serious adverse reactions occurred.

LIMITATIONS

It is a single-center study and the number of subjects was small.

"The efficacy and adverse effects of treatment options for facial pores: A review article"

INTRODUCTION

Skin pores are enlarged openings of the pilosebaceous follicles that can be affected by age, gender, genetics, exposure to UV light, ethnicity, and sebum secretion. Many treatment modalities reduce facial pores' count and area, including oral and topical medications as well as different wavelengths of lasers. Finding a safe and cost-effective treatment protocol is necessary since facial pores are one of the main reasons for cosmetic complaints.

AIM

This review compares available treatment options for reducing facial pores' number and area according to the published clinical trials.

METHODS

A search on PubMed and Google Scholar was performed. Nineteen published clinical trials regarding treatment options for facial pores were included and reviewed based on the authors' clinical experience.

RESULTS

A total number of 591 cases (83.7% female) aged 18-80 years were included. Three assessment methods including digital imaging, physician assessment, and patient' satisfaction were used in the studies to evaluate the therapeutic efficacy of each modality. Furthermore, combining different modalities increased the efficacy of reducing pores' size and number. Mild, reversible burning and erythema were common side effects.

CONCLUSION

Multiple sessions and combination therapies improve facial pores' area and number. In young patients, the focus should be on controlling sebum production, while in older patients, the focus should be on rejuvenation in addition to the control of sebum production.

A Novel multi-fruit acids formula design on molecular basis for skin brightening via a system biology approach

BACKGROUND

Fruit acids have long been recognized as highly effective actives with world-wide popularity, covering skin peeling, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle applications, and skin depigmentation.

AIMS

There are complicated interconnections between the fruit acid formula and skin pigmentation behaviors. However, the lack of systematic researches on multi-ingredient formula restricted our understanding on its mechanism. Therefore, it is of great necessity to study the interactions and cascades among components, potential gene targets, signaling pathways, and biological processes via a system biology approach.

METHODS

We used system biology, molecular fingerprint, and structural biology to calculate and collect target information of the functional formula. Gene Ontology (GO) enrichment analysis was further applied to study the biological processes and pathways of the formula, and a multi-level network model of "component - molecular target - signaling pathway - skin disease" was established. Besides, the zebrafish model was utilized to verify the formula.

RESULTS

We obtained 69 hub targets by constructing a protein-protein interaction (PPI) network based on the intersection between multi-fruit acids formula (mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, niacinamide, and hydroxytyrosol) and skin indications targets (whitening-sebum balance). In vitro zebrafish models, including pigmentation, antioxidant, and radiation protection models, showed that the current formula significantly alleviated pigmentation intensity and intracellular free radical content, thus proving the efficacy of skin brightening and UV irradiation protection.

CONCLUSIONS

This research uncovered the underlying mechanism of multi-fruit acids formula and predicted its function in skin brightening and UV irradiation prevention.

Are cosmetics based on alpha hydroxy acids safe to use when purchased over the internet?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used in dermatology for topical treatment of skin disorders. Some regulatory bodies, including Food and Drug Administration (FDA), recommended labeling cosmetic products with sunburn alerts and proposed limitations regarding concentrations of AHAs in cosmetic products. In addition, The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel recommended 10% of AHAs in products as the maximal safe concentration. With a rapidly increasing trend of online purchasing of cosmetic products, it is important that their labels convey the necessary warnings and that they be harmonized with regulatory bodies regarding the recommended concentrations of AHAs. The aim of this report was to investigate whether or not the sunburn alert, as well as AHA recommendations mostly used for exfoliating cosmetic products, was visible to consumers during the online purchasing. The compliance with FDA and CIR Expert Panel standards was analyzed in the first 50 cosmetic products obtained after the conducted investigation on the Amazon.com e-commerce company website using the search term “AHA anti-aging.” It was found that exfoliating cosmetic products contained AHAs in a broad range of concentrations, from 2.5 up to 70%. Nineteen out of 50 products contained a concentration of AHAs greater than recommended. Twelve products did not contain any data at all regarding the concentration of AHAs. Sunburn alerts were present in 16 out of 50 analyzed product pages. In conclusion, more efforts should be made in providing users with information and the necessity of protection from potential complications after topical AHAs product treatments

The Effects of Green Tea (Camellia sinensis), Bamboo Extract (Bambusa vulgaris) and Lactic Acid on Sebum Production in Young Women with Acne Vulgaris Using Sonophoresis Treatment

People struggling with acne vulgaris, not only experience skin eruptions and skin pain, but also report that their quality of life is worse compared with healthy people. This study examined, for the first time, the effect of sonophoresis on select skin parameters (sebum level) in young women suffering from acne vulgaris. The study included 60 women 19–23 years of age (M = 21.45, SD = 0.91) with mild and moderate facial acne. The inclusion criteria were 19–23 years of age, female or male gender, mild to moderate acne, no dermatological treatment within last 12 months, and no hormonal contraception (women). No men volunteered for the study, so the group was homogeneous. The patients were divided into two groups. Group A underwent a sonophoresis procedure using ultrasound and ultrasound gel combined with a green tea, bamboo extract ampule, and 5% lactic acid. Group B was the placebo group, where sonophoresis was performed using only ultrasound gel (no ampules). The members of the placebo group were told that they were undergoing sonophoresis with a green tea, bamboo extract, and 5% lactic acid ampule. Before and after the series of procedures, sebum levels were measured in the skin. Each patient underwent a series of five procedures using sonophoresis equipment at one-week intervals. Sonophoresis with green tea, bamboo extract, and 5% lactic acid contributed to the reduction of skin eruptions and sebum levels in the participants of the study (group A). The study results demonstrated that the combined use of plant preparations, lactic acid, and ultrasound had a positive effect on the skin of people suffering from acne vulgaris, including reduction of skin eruptions and sebum levels on the surface of the skin.

Adult female acne: a guide to clinical practice

BACKGROUND

Acne in women is often associated with anxiety and depression, and may persist from adolescence as well as manifest for the first time in adulthood. Genetic and hormonal factors contribute to its etiopathogenesis, and maintenance treatment is required, usually for years, due to its clinical evolution.

OBJECTIVE

To develop a guide for the clinical practice of adult female acne.

METHODS

A team of five experts with extensive experience in acne conducted a literature review of the main scientific evidence and met to discuss the best practices and personal experiences to develop a guide containing recommendations for the clinical practice of adult female acne.

RESULTS

The group of specialists reached consensus on the main guidelines for clinical practice, providing detailed recommendations on clinical picture, etiopathogenesis, laboratory investigation and treatment of adult female acne.

CONCLUSION

Different from teenage acne, adult female acne presents some characteristics and multiple etiopathogenic factors that make its management more complex. This guide provides recommendations for best clinical practices and therapeutic decisions. However, the authors consider that additional studies are needed in order to provide more evidence for adult female acne to be better understood.

Impact of chemical peeling combined with negative pressure on human skin

OBJECTIVE

In vivo changes in skin barrier function after chemical peeling with alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) have been previously reported. However, the additional effects of physical treatment with chemical agents on skin barrier function have not been adequately studied. This study measured the degree of acute skin damage and the time required for skin barrier repair using non-invasive bioengineering methods in vivo with human skin to investigate the additional effect of a 4% AHA chemical jet accelerated at supersonic velocities.

METHODS

Thirteen female subjects (average age: 29.54 ± 4.86 years) participated in this study. The faces of the subjects were divided into half according to the block randomization design and were then assigned to receive AHA peeling alone or AHA peeling combined with pneumatic pressure on each side of the face. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin colour and skin blood flow were evaluated at baseline and at 30 min, 2, 5 and 7 days after treatment.

RESULTS

The TEWL and skin blood flow were significantly increased after 30 min in chemodermabrasion compared with chemical peeling alone (P < 0.05). The TEWL and skin blood flow recovered to baseline after 2 days, and TEWL was significantly decreased at 7 days compared with chemical peeling alone (P < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

Chemodermabrasion can temporarily impair skin barriers, but it is estimated that it can enhance the skin barrier function after 7 days compared to the use of a chemical agent alone. In addition, chemodermabrasion has a more effective impact in the dermis and relatively preserves the skin barrier.