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Mambwe B, Mellody KT, Kiss O, O'Connor C, Bell M, Watson REB, Langton AK. Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024. [PMID: 39128883 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13013] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/14/2024] [Revised: 07/22/2024] [Accepted: 07/22/2024] [Indexed: 08/13/2024]
Abstract
The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Bezaleel Mambwe
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
| | - Kieran T Mellody
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
| | - Orsolya Kiss
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
| | - Clare O'Connor
- No7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance, Nottingham, UK
| | - Mike Bell
- No7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance, Nottingham, UK
| | - Rachel E B Watson
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
- A*STAR Skin Research Laboratory (A*SRL), Agency for Science, Technology and Research (A*STAR), Singapore City, Singapore
| | - Abigail K Langton
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
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Shu P, Jiang L, Li M, Li Y, Yuan Z, Lin L, Wen J, Aisa HA, Du Z. Comparison of five retinoids for anti-photoaging therapy: Evaluation of anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activities in vitro and therapeutic efficacy in vivo. Photochem Photobiol 2024; 100:633-645. [PMID: 37990342 DOI: 10.1111/php.13872] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/02/2023] [Revised: 09/27/2023] [Accepted: 10/11/2023] [Indexed: 11/23/2023]
Abstract
Over the past decades, increasing evidences have demonstrated that five retinoids, including retinol (ROL), retinol acetate (RAc), retinol propionate (RP), retinol palmitate (RPalm), and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), can be potential therapeutic agents for skin photoaging. However, therapeutic efficacies and biosafety have never been compared to these compounds. This study aimed to determine the optimal retinoid type(s) for anti-photoaging therapy both in vitro and in vivo. Our data demonstrated that four retinoids (RPalm, RP, HPR and ROL) but not RAc were effective for anti-photoaging treatment at 5 μg/mL in vitro, with action mechanisms associated with antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anti-skin ECM degradation activities. Notably, both RPalm and RP appeared superior to HPR and ROL for those activities. Importantly, both RPalm and RP were shown to be optimal for anti-photoaging therapy when topically applied at 5 mg/kg in a UVB-induced mice model of photoaging, which is consistent with their high anti-photoaging activities in vitro. Additionally, topical application of these five retinoids showed satisfactory biosafety without causing significant apoptosis in animal organs, although RP application led to a slight decline in animal body weights. Collectively, these data have laid a good foundation for the next development of the clinical application of these retinoids for skin healthcare.
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Affiliation(s)
- Peng Shu
- State Key Laboratory Basis of Xinjiang Indigenous Medicinal Plants Resource Utilization, CAS Key Laboratory of Chemistry of Plant Resources in Arid Regions, Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Urumqi, Xing Jiang, China
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen, Guangdong, China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Ling Jiang
- School of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Guangdong University of Technology, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China
| | - Menggeng Li
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen, Guangdong, China
| | - Yi Li
- School of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Guangdong University of Technology, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China
| | - Zhengqiang Yuan
- School of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Guangdong University of Technology, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China
| | - Li Lin
- Foshan Allan Conney Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Foshan, Guangdong, China
| | - Ju Wen
- Department of Dermatology, Guangdong Second People's Hospital, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China
| | - Haji Akber Aisa
- State Key Laboratory Basis of Xinjiang Indigenous Medicinal Plants Resource Utilization, CAS Key Laboratory of Chemistry of Plant Resources in Arid Regions, Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Urumqi, Xing Jiang, China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
| | - Zhiyun Du
- State Key Laboratory Basis of Xinjiang Indigenous Medicinal Plants Resource Utilization, CAS Key Laboratory of Chemistry of Plant Resources in Arid Regions, Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Urumqi, Xing Jiang, China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
- School of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Guangdong University of Technology, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China
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Davis A, Furtak A, Paterson S, Velthuizen R, Shen J, Nip J, Bappal A, Lathrop W, Villa A, Lee JM, Guelakis M. Topical application of retinyl propionate, 4 hexyl resorcinol, and niacinamide reverses molecular and clinical features of ageing. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024. [PMID: 38685700 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12958] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/19/2023] [Revised: 02/12/2024] [Accepted: 02/18/2024] [Indexed: 05/02/2024]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Topical tretinoin is the mainstay of treatment for photoageing, despite the risk of skin irritation. Cosmetic combination anti-ageing formulations may offer similar efficacy to tretinoin, while improving on tolerability. We aim to demonstrate facial appearance benefits of a novel triple-active cosmetic formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide and to identify transcriptomic biomarkers underpinning these benefits. METHODS A cosmetic prototype formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide was evaluated ex vivo and in a clinical study. For ex vivo experiments, the cosmetic formulation was applied for 3 days to healthy surgical discard skin from female donors aged 31-51 years, with tissues harvested for gene expression and histologic analyses. In the clinical study, females aged 47-66 years with moderate-to-severe overall visual photodamage on the face applied either topical 0.02% tretinoin or the cosmetic formulation to the face for 16 weeks and to forearms for 1 week, with forearm biopsies taken for gene expression analyses. Visual grading for facial photodamage and VISIA-CR images was taken throughout the clinical study. Safety was visually assessed during site visits, and adverse event monitoring was conducted throughout. RESULTS Gene expression analyses in both studies revealed modulation of pathways associated with skin rejuvenation, with several genes of interest identified due to being implicated in ageing and differentially expressed following the application of the cosmetic formulation. Reversal of a consensus skin ageing gene signature was observed with the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin in the ex vivo and clinical studies. Both the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin clinically improved the overall appearance of photoageing, crow's feet, lines, wrinkles, and pores. Adverse event reporting showed that the cosmetic formulation caused less skin irritation than tretinoin. CONCLUSION In a double-blind clinical study, the novel triple-active cosmetic combination formulation improved the visual appearance of photoageing similarly to prescription tretinoin. The cosmetic formulation and tretinoin reversed a consensus gene signature associated with ageing. Together with adverse event reporting, these results suggest that the cosmetic formulation may be a well-tolerated and efficacious alternative to tretinoin for improving the visual features of photoageing.
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Affiliation(s)
- Andrew Davis
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - Ashley Furtak
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - Sarah Paterson
- Unilever Research and Development, Port Sunlight, Bebington, Wirral, UK
| | | | - Jeremy Shen
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - John Nip
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - Arthika Bappal
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - William Lathrop
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - Ana Villa
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - Jian-Ming Lee
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
| | - Marian Guelakis
- Unilever Research and Development, Trumbull, Connecticut, USA
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