Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

Intake of Antioxidant Vitamins and Minerals in Relation to Body Composition, Skin Hydration and Lubrication in Young Women

The aim of this study was to estimate the consumption of selected dietary components with antioxidant properties, undertake body composition analysis, assess skin hydration and lubrication, and establish the relationships between the above parameters. The study was carried out on 172 young women. The consumption of ingredients (vitamins A, C, D and E, and Cu, Mn, Zn) was assessed using the Diet 6.0 program, body composition was assessed using electrical bioimpedance and skin hydration and lubrication were assessed using the corneometric and sebumetric methods, respectively. About one-third of students showed insufficient consumption of vitamin C, vitamin E and zinc, while about 99% showed insufficient vitamin D levels. The highest degree of hydration was observed in the areas of the eyelids, neckline and chin. The greatest amount of sebum was found in the area of the nose and forehead. Low positive correlations between hydration or lubrication and Cu, vitamin A and vitamin E were observed. In conclusion, to properly moisturize and lubricate the skin, young women should eat products that are rich in ingredients with antioxidant properties, in particular fat-soluble vitamins A and E, but also copper.

Cosmetic benefits of a novel biomimetic lamellar formulation containing niacinamide in healthy females with oily, blemish-prone skin in a randomized proof-of-concept study

OBJECTIVE

A randomized study was designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturizing cream in oily, blemish-prone skin.

METHODS

Healthy adult women with oily, blemish-prone skin were randomized to one of three treatment groups: test, control, or positive control. In the test group, subjects used the test product (containing 4% niacinamide), plus the standard cleanser (Simple® Kind to Skin Moisturizing Facial Wash). In the control group, subjects received no moisturizer but used the standard cleanser. In the positive control group, subjects used Vivatinell Acnecinamide^® Gel Cream (containing 4% niacinamide) as a moisturizer and Neutrogena Visibly Clear^® Spot Clearing Facial Wash (containing 2% salicylic acid) as a cleanser. The positive control regimen was included to provide a comparison for estimates of effect size. The primary objective was to evaluate skin moisturization as a change from baseline in corneometer values at 8 h for the test regimen vs. the control regimen. Analysis of covariance was applied for the primary efficacy analysis.

RESULTS

A total of 132 subjects were randomized with 44 included in each treatment group. A significant difference was observed in the primary endpoint for the test regimen compared with the control regimen (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: 3.12 [0.68, 5.56], P = 0.0128). A trend was observed in favour of the positive control regimen compared with the control regimen. Secondary measurements of moisturization supported the primary efficacy outcome. Assessment of blemishes showed a significant difference between the test regimen vs. the control regimen for change from baseline in mean total blemish count at Week 8 (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: -1.80 [-3.41, -0.19], P = 0.0290). No statistical comparisons between the positive control group and the test group were performed.

CONCLUSION

This study provides proof-of-concept evidence that a novel lamellar lipid moisturizer containing niacinamide, in combination with a standard cleanser, can help moisturize the skin and provide an overall improvement in the complexion appearance of people with blemish-prone skin.

STUDY REGISTRATION

NCT03093181.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.