Cosmetic benefits of a novel biomimetic lamellar formulation containing niacinamide in healthy females with oily, blemish-prone skin in a randomized proof-of-concept study

International expert consensus recommendations for the use of dermocosmetics in acne

BACKGROUND

A wide variety of dermocosmetics (products with both active skincare and cosmetic activity) are available for the management of acne vulgaris. These products are important because they may be the first line of approach for patients desiring to self-treat and they can also have beneficial effects-reducing lesion counts and improving global acne severity. When used in conjunction with medical therapy, dermocosmetics can improve tolerability and enhance results. We reviewed available evidence and combined it with our clinical experience to help guide clinicians in selecting skincare products with acne-targeting ingredients.

METHODS

An international panel of dermatologists with an interest and expertise in managing acne performed a literature review, formulated clinical questions related to the role of dermocosmetics in the acne setting, used a modified GRADE approach to evaluate available evidence and then utilized an online iterative Delphi process to create consensus recommendations. It should be noted that due to the limited number of available studies, the category of dermocosmetics was evaluated rather than specific ingredients.

RESULTS

The quality of evidence was found to be low to moderate. Key recommendations were made based on available evidence for the use of dermocosmetics in acne to improve acne global assessment, reduce acne lesion counts, reduce superficial skin oiliness and serve as maintenance therapy after medical treatment, while providing a good tolerability. Recommendations were also made for using dermocosmetics as adjuncts to medical treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

While there is a need for better quality evidence, dermocosmetics have demonstrated some benefit for acne both when used alone in its milder clinical presentations or in maintenance post acne medication and as adjunct to acne treatments.