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Aguilera J, Gracia-Cazaña T, Gilaberte Y. New developments in sunscreens. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2023; 22:2473-2482. [PMID: 37543534 DOI: 10.1007/s43630-023-00453-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/10/2022] [Accepted: 06/28/2023] [Indexed: 08/07/2023]
Abstract
Topical sunscreen application is one of the most important photoprotection tool to prevent sun damaging effects in human skin at the short and long term. Although its efficacy and cosmeticity have significantly improved in recent years, a better understanding of the biological and clinical effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as long ultraviolet A (UVA I) and blue light, has driven scientists and companies to search for effective and safe filters and substances to protect against these newly identified forms of radiation. New technologies have sought to imbue sunscreen with novel properties, such as the reduction of calorific radiation. Cutaneous penetration by sunscreens can also be reduced using hydrogels or nanocrystals that envelop the filters, or by binding filters to nanocarriers such as alginate microparticles, cyclodextrins, and methacrylate polymers. Finally, researchers have looked to nature as a source of healthier products, such as plant products (e.g., mycosporines, scytonemin, and various flavonoids) and even fungal and bacterial melanin, which could potentially be used as substitutes or enhancers of current filters.
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Affiliation(s)
- José Aguilera
- Photobiological Dermatology Laboratory, Medical Research Center, Department of Dermatology and Medicine, Faculty of Medicine, University of Malaga, Malaga, Spain
| | - Tamara Gracia-Cazaña
- Department of Dermatology, Miguel Servet University Hospital, IIS Aragón, Zaragossa, Spain.
- University of Zaragoza, University of Medicine, Zaragoza, Spain.
| | - Yolanda Gilaberte
- Department of Dermatology, Miguel Servet University Hospital, IIS Aragón, Zaragossa, Spain
- University of Zaragoza, University of Medicine, Zaragoza, Spain
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Kouassi MC, Grisel M, Gore E. Multifunctional active ingredient-based delivery systems for skincare formulations: A review. Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces 2022; 217:112676. [DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2022.112676] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/22/2022] [Revised: 06/24/2022] [Accepted: 06/27/2022] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
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Jesus A, Sousa E, Cruz MT, Cidade H, Lobo JMS, Almeida IF. UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects. Pharmaceuticals (Basel) 2022; 15:ph15030263. [PMID: 35337062 PMCID: PMC8955451 DOI: 10.3390/ph15030263] [Citation(s) in RCA: 24] [Impact Index Per Article: 12.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/27/2021] [Revised: 01/17/2022] [Accepted: 01/19/2022] [Indexed: 01/27/2023] Open
Abstract
The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ana Jesus
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; (A.J.); (J.M.S.L.)
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Emília Sousa
- Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
- CIIMAR—Interdisciplinary Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal
| | - Maria T. Cruz
- Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3004-531 Coimbra, Portugal;
- Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, 3004-504 Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Honorina Cidade
- Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
- CIIMAR—Interdisciplinary Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal
- Correspondence: (H.C.); (I.F.A.); Tel.: +351-220-428 (I.F.A.)
| | - José M. Sousa Lobo
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; (A.J.); (J.M.S.L.)
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Isabel F. Almeida
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; (A.J.); (J.M.S.L.)
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- Correspondence: (H.C.); (I.F.A.); Tel.: +351-220-428 (I.F.A.)
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Terescenco D, Hadj Benali L, Canivet F, Benoit le Gelebart M, Hucher N, Gore E, Picard C. Bio-sourced polymers in cosmetic emulsions: a hidden potential of the alginates as thickeners and gelling agents. Int J Cosmet Sci 2021; 43:573-587. [PMID: 34403151 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12732] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/29/2021] [Revised: 08/09/2021] [Accepted: 08/15/2021] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE The present work aims to investigate the impact of the alginates on the texture properties of cosmetic emulsions. For this purpose, five systems were selected: a classical emulsion without polymer and four emulsions containing polymers, as texture modifiers, at the level of 1%. Two different grades of alginates were chosen: one rich in mannuronic acid and one rich in guluronic acid. The objective was also to evaluate the potential of in-situ gelation during formulation. The guluronic rich sample was gelled to evaluate the effect on the texture properties. Finally, alginates-based systems were compared to the xanthan gum as a bio-sourced polymer reference. METHODS The sensory profile of the systems was established through a combination of prediction models and sensory analysis. The emulsion residual films obtained with natural polymers, Alginates and Xanthan Gum used as thickeners, as well as with the gelled version, were similar. However, the structural differences between polymers intervene during the characterisation of the sensory properties "before" and "during" application. A multi-scale physicochemical analysis was used to explain these differences. RESULTS Due to a controlled formulation process, the use of the polymers did not affect the microstructure of the emulsion which remained similar to the control one. The main impact of the polymers was observed on the macroscopic level: both alginates showed their unique textural signature, different from the classical Xanthan Gum. Due to weak structural differences, mechanical and textural properties were very close between the mannuronic rich and guluronic rich samples, when not gelled, compared to other emulsions. However, the molar mass and the mannuronic/guluronic acids ratio were proved to be crucial for the stretching and consistency properties, showing that this structural difference may have an impact when products are handled in traction and compression. CONCLUSION Meanwhile, the viscoelastic properties and the dynamic viscosity were greatly increased for the emulsion containing the gelled version of the alginate when compared to the classical polymers. The emulsion was also more consistent as proved by the textural analysis, pointing at better stability and suspension potential of the gelled emulsion versus the classical one containing the usual natural thickening agents.
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