Perifollicular pigmentation is the first target for topical vitamin C derivative ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate (APPS): Randomized, single-blinded, placebo-controlled study

Efficacy and safety of mesotherapy with tranexamic acid versus vitamin C in the treatment of melasma: A meta-analysis and systemic review

BACKGROUND

The exact pathogenesis of melasma is not yet known, and its treatment remains challenging. Mesotherapy with tranexamic acid (TXA) and vitamin C was both reported to have certain effects on melasma. In spite of that several articles have compared the efficacy and safety of the two drugs on melasma, most of them were clinical study with small sample size.

AIMS

To evaluate the efficacy and safety of mesotherapy with TXA versus vitamin C in treating melasma through meta-analysis and systemic review.

METHODS

The authors searched PubMed, Web of Science, Springer, and ScienceDirect for studies that compared mesotherapy with TXA versus vitamin C as a treatment for melasma. Primary outcomes were change in melasma area and severity index (MASI) before and after the treatment.

RESULTS

Finally, five studies with a total of 127 patients were included in the systematic review. There was no statistic difference in the change in MASI score between the TXA and vitamin C groups (mean difference, 0.16; 95% CI, -0.79 to 1.11).

CONCLUSIONS

Mesotherapy with both TXA and vitamin C is safe and effective in the treatment of melasma.

A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy

Vitamin C is a popular ingredient in over-the-counter cosmeceuticals due to its many biological functions in maintaining and improving skin health by treating UV damage, improving discoloration, and boosting collagen production. Several chemically modified derivatives of vitamin C have been developed in an attempt to increase the stability, percutaneous absorption, and overall activity of this ingredient in topical formulations. The goal of this review is to evaluate the differences between vitamin C derivatives that have been designed for cosmeceutical use and their efficacy.

Efficacy of microneedling with topical vitamin C in the treatment of melasma

BACKGROUND

Despite the wide therapeutic options available for the treatment of melasma, including many active topical medications, technologies with lights and peelings, clinical control of this disorder is extremely challenging.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the effect of microneedling with topical vitamin C in the treatment of melasma.

METHODS

Thirty female patients with melasma received six sessions of microneedling with addition of topical vitamin C every two weeks. At each session, photos were taken and Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) score was calculated to assess the clinical improvement.

RESULTS

Mean age of the eligible patients was 33.2 ± 5.77 years. About 50% of cases were of Fitzpatrick skin type III. All patients showed improvement at the end of the sessions. Mean MASI score in the first session was 8.61 ± 4.45 and there was a gradual decline in its value till it reached a mean of 5.75 ± 4.16 in the last session (P < 0.0001).

CONCLUSION

Microneedling with topical vitamin C is an effective and safe treatment option for epidermal melasma especially in Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I-III.

Optimization of the Antioxidant Potentials of Red Pitaya Peels and Its In Vitro Skin Whitening Properties

In this study, response surface methodology (RSM) was employed for the optimization of the antioxidant potentials of red pitaya peels using independent variables: temperature (45–65 °C), ethanol concentration (70–90%, v/v) and time (80–120 min) through its responses, which were DPPH scavenging activity, ferric ion reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), and beta-carotene bleaching (BCB) inhibition, respectively. In Vitro anti-tyrosinase and vitamin C content assays were carried out spectrophotometrically to determine the skin whitening efficacy of the optimized red pitaya peel extract. A gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis was employed to identify the chemical constituents present in the optimized extract. The optimized conditions were ethanol 82% (v/v) for 103 min at 56 °C with values of 75.98% for DPPH, 7.45 mM Fe2+/g dry weight for FRAP and 93.29% for BCB respectively. The in vitro anti-tyrosinase and vitamin C content evaluation of the optimized extract showed a good tyrosinase inhibition of 66.29% with IC50 of 24.06 µg/mL while the vitamin C content was 5.45 mg/g of the extract. The GC-MS analysis revealed the presence of thirty phytoconstituents with l-(+)-ascorbic acid 2,6-dihexadecanoate being the most abundant with a peak area of 14.66%. This study evidently suggests the potential of red pitaya peels to be exploited as a natural skin whitening agent in the cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical formulations.

Topical Application of Trisodium Ascorbyl 6-Palmitate 2-Phosphate Actively Supplies Ascorbate to Skin Cells in an Ascorbate Transporter-Independent Manner

Ascorbic acid (AA) possesses multiple beneficial functions, such as regulating collagen biosynthesis and redox balance in the skin. AA derivatives have been developed to overcome this compound’s high fragility and to assist with AA supplementation to the skin. However, how AA derivatives are transferred into cells and converted to AA in the skin remains unclear. In the present study, we showed that AA treatment failed to increase the cellular AA level in the presence of AA transporter inhibitors, indicating an AA transporter-dependent action. In contrast, torisodium ascorbyl 6-palmitate 2-phosphate (APPS) treatment significantly enhanced the cellular AA level in skin cells despite the presence of inhibitors. In ex vivo experiments, APPS treatment also increased the AA content in a human epidermis model. Interestingly, APPS was readily metabolized and converted to AA in keratinocyte lysates via an intrinsic mechanism. Furthermore, APPS markedly repressed the intracellular superoxide generation and promoted viability associated with an enhanced AA level in Sod1-deficient skin cells. These findings indicate that APPS effectively restores the AA level and normalizes the redox balance in skin cells in an AA transporter-independent manner. Topical treatment of APPS is a beneficial strategy for supplying AA and improving the physiology of damaged skin.

Reduction of conspicuous facial pores by topical fullerene: possible role in the suppression of PGE2 production in the skin

Background

Conspicuous facial pores are therapeutic targets for cosmeceuticals. Here we examine the effect of topical fullerene on conspicuous facial pores using a new image analyser called the VISIA^® system. Ten healthy Japanese females participated in this study, and they received applications of 1% fullerene lotion to the face twice a day for 8 weeks.

Findings

Fullerene lotion significantly decreased conspicuous pores by 17.6% (p < 0.05, Wilcoxon signed-rank test) after an 8-week treatment. A self-administered questionnaire indicated that this reduction achieved cosmetically appreciable effects. In addition, to investigate the mechanism of effect of fullerene, we examined its effect on UVB-induced prostaglandin E₂ (PGE₂) production in reconstructed human epidermis (RhE). The results showed that irradiation of RhE with 1000 mJ/cm² increased PGE₂ production by 62.3% (p < 0.05, Mann-Whitney U-test) and the addition of 28 μM fullerene significantly suppressed the UVB-induced PGE₂ production by 18.3% (p < 0.05).

Conclusions

Fullerene lotion significantly decreases conspicuous facial pores after an 8-week treatment possibly through the suppression of PGE₂ production in the epidermis.

Vitamin C in dermatology

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant drug that can be used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent changes associated with photoageing. It can also be used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Because it is unstable and difficult to deliver into the dermis in the optimum dosage, research is being directed to find stable compounds of Vitamin C and newer methods of delivery of Vitamin C into the dermis.

Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals and over-the-counter cosmeceuticals incorporating antioxidants are among the most popular anti-aging products available. One potent antioxidant of particular note, vitamin C, has been extensively utilized because it possesses a variety of other cutaneous benefits including photoprotection from UV A & B, neocollagenesis, inhibition of melanogenesis and improvement of a variety of inflammatory skin disorders. However, the instability of this water-soluble vitamin, together with difficulties associated with its topical delivery, has presented issues for the formulation chemist. This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies that underpin the stability, percutaneous absorption, and cutaneous effects of vitamin C together with its commonly utilized, commercially available derivatives.