Cosmeceuticals: coming of age

Biorefineries – factories of the future

Efforts were made to demonstrate that in biorefineries it is possible to manufacture all the commodities required for maintaining human civilisation on the current level. Biorefineries are based on processing biomass resulting from photosynthesis. From sugars, oils and proteins, a variety of food, feed, nutrients, pharmaceuticals, polymers, chemicals and fuels can further be produced. Production in biorefineries must be based on a few rules to fulfil sustainable development: all raw materials are derived from biomass, all products are biodegradable and production methods are in accordance with the principles of Green Chemistry and Clean Technology. The paper presents a summary of state-of-the-art concerning biorefineries, production methods and product range of leading companies in the world that are already implemented. Potential risks caused by the development of biorefineries, such as: insecurities of food and feed production, uncontrolled changes in global production profiles, monocultures, eutrophication, etc., were also highlighted in this paper. It was stressed that the sustainable development is not only an alternative point of view but is our condition to survive.

Synthesis of α-collagen fragments and research of their influence on the degree of hydration of a model of epidermis

INTRODUCTION

In recent years the interest into areas of science, such as cosmetology, dermatology, pharmacology or aesthetic medicine has increased significantly. Scientists are more frequently looking for ingredients that affect the skin's condition and slow down the aging process. Practically every year, the scientists discover a number of new chemical substances (both natural and synthetic) that can be potentially used to manufacture cosmetics.

AIM

To evaluate the influence of selected peptides derived from α-collagen fragments on the degree of hydration of a model of epidermis isolated from a pig.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The synthesis of selected cosmetic oligopeptides were performed manually, on the solid medium, using procedure of SPPS (solid phase peptide synthesis). Following components: aqua, carbomer, glycerine, phenonip, D-panthenol, dimethicone and triethanolamine were used to prepare a reference hydrogel masks. Both the number of components and the composition of hydrogels have been developed individually for the purposes of this research. For this study the skin from a domestic pig was used. The degree of the skin hydration was measured with the SKINTEST plus camera, which uses the latest semiconductor technology.

RESULTS

During the study the absorption of hydrogels with peptides was faster than that of the reference hydrogel mask. The combination of hydrophilic properties of the peptide with hydrophobic properties of Palm enabled receiving an amphiphilic structure. Such molecules are considered to be able to penetrate the corneum barrier with the greatest ease.

CONCLUSIONS

The results showed that the modified compounds have contributed to water retention in the cells, thereby increasing the degree of hydration of the biological material.

Randomized controlled study of a cosmetic treatment for mild acne

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic products are not tested with the same rigour as medical treatments, but recent high-quality studies have shown significant reductions in changes of skin ageing with use of cosmetic antiageing products.

AIM

To test whether a cosmetic 'anti-spot' two-step treatment containing a complex of seaweed-derived oligosaccharide and zinc would produce a significant improvement in mild acne.

METHODS

A double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of this treatment was performed for 8 weeks on 60 age-matched participants with mild acne. They were divided into two groups: 30 participants were treated with vehicle control and 30 with the active treatment containing a seaweed-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone.

RESULTS

After 8 weeks, both groups had a reduction in comedones, papules and pustules, and this was significantly greater in the active than control group at 2, 4 and 8 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

Cosmetic products may offer some benefit for mild acne and still meet the requirements of the European Cosmetic Directive. In particular, the seaweed-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone used in this study produced a significant reduction in acne vs. a control treatment. Cosmetic companies should conduct blinded controlled trials of their product's efficacy and publish the results.

The art and science of new advances in cosmeceuticals

The need for cosmeceutical research is ever present. This article has tried to highlight the chemistry of botanic extracts in the current marketplace and review the best research available. In some ways, more questions have been raised than answered; yet, ideas for intellectual discourse have been provided. Herein lies the physician cosmeceutical challenge.