Inhibition of ultraviolet-B-induced wrinkle formation by an elastase-inhibiting herbal extract: implication for the mechanism underlying elastase-associated wrinkles

Taif Rose Oil Ameliorates UVB-Induced Oxidative Damage and Skin Photoaging in Rats via Modulation of MAPK and MMP Signaling Pathways

Short-wave UVB (ultraviolet B) causes rapid oxidative damage to the skin. Rose water is obtained mainly from the petals of Rosa damascena Mill. (Rosaceae) and used traditionally to hydrate dry skin and reduce signs of aging. This work aimed at evaluating the possible protective potential of the prepared eco-friendly Taif rose oil nanoemulsion (ROSE-NANO) against UVB-induced photoaging in adult male Wistar rats. Taif rose oil (ROSE) was obtained from R. damascene by classical steam distillation and formulated in emulgel (100 mg/g). In addition, the oil was formulated in ROSE-NANO-loaded emulgel (50 and 100 mg/g) to enhance the effect of ROSE. All prepared formulas were tested topically for their potential protective effect in UV-induced skin photoaging. The obtained results demonstrated that application of ROSE-NANO-loaded emulgel resulted in superior antiaging potency over ROSE emulgel based on histological studies as well as biochemical evaluations via amendment in CAT and SOD activities, decreasing the concentration of the inflammatory markers and preventing collagen fragmentation through reduction of MMP-9 content in fibroblasts. Moreover, a significant decrease in mRNA expression of NF-KB, JNK, ERK1/2, and p38 MAPK genes was observed. In conclusion, the current study provides scientific evidence for the traditional use of rose oil in skin aging. Moreover, the NANO formula showed promising efficacy as a skin photoprotector against UV-induced oxidative damage and skin aging.

Novel Siprulina platensis Bilosomes for Combating UVB Induced Skin Damage

The recent interest in bioactive compounds from natural sources has led to the evolution of the skin care industry. Efforts to develop biologically active ingredients from natural sources have resulted in the emergence of enhanced skin care products. Spirulina (SPR), a nutritionally enriched cyanobacteria-type microalga, is rich in nutrients and phytochemicals. SPR possesses antioxidant, immunomodulatory, and anti-inflammatory activities. Spirulina-loaded bilosomes (SPR-BS), a novel antiaging drug delivery system, were designed for the first time by incorporation in a lecithin−bile salt-integrated system for bypassing skin delivery obstacles. The optimized BS had good entrapment efficiency, small particle size, optimal zeta potential, and sustained drug release pattern. Blank and SPR-loaded BS formulations were safe, with a primary irritancy index of <2 based on the Draize test. In vivo tests were conducted, and photoprotective antiaging effects were evaluated visually and biochemically by analyzing antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkling markers following ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation. Results of biochemical marker analysis and histopathological examination confirmed the superior antiaging effect of SPR-BS compared with SPR. Thus, SPR-loaded BS is a promising nanoplatform for SPR delivery, can be used for treating UV-induced skin damage, and offers maximum therapeutic outcomes.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential of Ipomoea pes-caprae Ethanolic Extracts on Promoting Cell Proliferation and Collagen Production in Human Fibroblasts (CCD-986sk Cells)

Collagen loss in the skin dermis is a major cause of age-related changes to the skin. Natural phytochemical substances are desirable for the prevention of skin aging and the formation of wrinkles. Ipomoea pes-caprae (IPC) has been utilized for nutritional and therapeutic purposes, and its extract contains collagenase inhibitory activity while causing no cytotoxicity. The purpose of this study was to examine the impact of IPC extracts on cell proliferation and collagen production in human fibroblasts (CCD-986sk cells). IPC leaves were macerated in 70% and 95% ethanol and the chemical composition of the resulting extracts (IPC70 and IPC95) were determined using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The bioactivity of IPC extracts was examined in CCD-986sk cells, including antioxidant capacity, inhibition of collagenase, effects on cell proliferation and collagen production, as well as wound healing using an in vitro scratch test. Changes in expression of collagen type I (COL1A1), tumor growth factor beta 1 (TGFB1), and beta-fibroblast growth factor (FGF2) genes were also evaluated. The antioxidant and collagenase inhibitory properties of IPC extracts were associated with 3,5-di-caffeoylquinic acid, chlorogenic acid, and ferulic acid. IPC extracts at noncytotoxic concentrations significantly increased cell proliferation, collagen production, and wound healing. These effects appear linked to the upregulation of COL1A1, TGFB1, and FGF2 genes. The bioactivity of the IPC70 extract was greater than that for IPC95. This is useful in cosmeceutical applications for human skin aging. Our findings indicate that IPC extracts have the potential for use in skin anti-aging cosmeceutical preparations.

Ginger for Healthy Ageing: A Systematic Review on Current Evidence of Its Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anticancer Properties

The world's population is ageing at an accelerated pace. Ageing is a natural, physiological but highly complex and multifactorial process that all species in the Tree of Life experience over time. Physical and mental disabilities, and age-related diseases, would increase along with the increasing life expectancy. Ginger (Zingiber officinale) is a plant that belongs to the Zingiberaceae family, native to Southeast Asia. For hundreds of years, ginger has been consumed in various ways by the natives of Asian countries, both as culinary and medicinal herb for the treatment of many diseases. Mounting evidence suggests that ginger can promote healthy ageing, reduce morbidity, and prolong healthy lifespan. Ginger, a well-known natural product, has been demonstrated to possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and antimicrobial properties, as well as an outstanding antiviral activity due to a high concentration of antiviral compounds. In this review, the current evidence on the potential role of ginger and its active compounds in the prevention of ageing is discussed.

Wrinkle reduction using a Sasang constitutional medicine-based topical herbal cream in So-eum subjects: A split-face randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is caused by exogenous and endogenous factors and is commonly manifested as wrinkling, sagging, and looseness of the skin. The herbal extract including Zingiber officinale Roscoe, Atractylodes chinensis (Bunge) Kodiz, Curcuma longa L., and Cinnamomum cassia (L.) J.Presl (ZACC extract), is widely used for So-eum (SE) Sasang constitutional type individuals. This study aimed to examine the protective effects of the ZACC extract against skin aging in 21 SE type subjects.

METHODS

The safety and clinical efficacy of herbal cream were evaluated after application on human skin in a split-face randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. The Sasang Constitution Analysis Tool (SCAT) was used to select 21 SE type subjects, who applied herbal cream and placebo cream for 12 weeks. Visual assessment, wrinkle parameters, questionnaires, and skin safety were evaluated.

RESULTS

The visual assessment score was decreased by using of the herbal cream, but there were no significant differences between groups. Among the wrinkle parameters, R1 (skin roughness) and R4 (smoothness depth) values were significantly improved after the application of the herbal cream compared to those observed after application of the placebo cream for 12 weeks. No significant differences were observed in evaluation of the product efficacy and usability by questionnaires. There were no adverse dermatologic reactions in the SE type subjects during the evaluation period.

CONCLUSION

The ZACC herbal cream may be used to prevent or slow skin aging, including wrinkle formation, in SE type individuals.

Effect of an Oral Nutrition Supplement Containing Collagen Peptides on Stratum Corneum Hydration and Skin Elasticity in Hospitalized Older Adults: A Multicenter Open-label Randomized Controlled Study

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this randomized open-label study was to investigate the effect of an oral nutrition supplement containing collagen peptides on stratum corneum hydration and skin elasticity.

METHODS

The study protocol was registered at the UMIN Clinical Trials Registry (UMIN 000027347). Once-a-day oral administration of a nutrition supplement containing collagen peptides (10.0 g) was instituted in 39 inpatients 65 years or older who were assigned to either the intervention or the control group using a block-randomization design. Stratum corneum hydration and skin elasticity were measured at baseline and at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks after the start of the intervention.

RESULTS

Mean stratum corneum hydration was significantly increased from 43.7 at baseline to 51.7 at postintervention week 8 in the intervention group (P = .001). Differences in skin elasticity from baseline were significant at postintervention week 6 (P = .026) and week 8 (P = .049).

CONCLUSIONS

Oral nutrition supplements containing collagen peptides may reduce skin vulnerability in older adults and thus prevent conditions such as skin tears.

Preparation and availability analysis of glycoprotein from canola meal

The purpose of this study is to examine the possibility of use in various fields such as cosmetics and food industry by extracting, separating, and purifying canola glycoprotein(hreinafter referred to as CNG) and comparing general characteristics and physiological activities with commercially available carrot glycoprotein(hreinafter referred to as CRG). The CNG had a protein content of 13.12%, which is higher than that of common vegetable glycoproteins, and much higher than the CRG of 2.36%. The molecular weight distribution of the CNG was 263-310 Da, which showed a lower molecular weight distribution than the 566-628 Da of the CRG. The total polyphenol content of the CNG was 29.89 mg/g, which was higher than that of the CRG measured at 1.76 mg g^-1. The DPPP radical scavenging activity of CNG and carrot glycoprotein were 10.07 mg mL^-1 and 7.76 mg mL^-1, respectively, indicating that CNG had slightly higher electron donating ability than CRG. Total antioxidant activity of CNG was 26.84 mg AA eq/g and CRG was 10.53 mg AA eq/g.

Comparison of antiaging, anti-melanogenesis effects, and active components of Raspberry (Rubus occidentalis L.) extracts according to maturity

In this study, we carried out a comparative evaluation of antiaging and anti-melanogenesis activities of raspberry extracts (Rubus occidentalis L.) according to their stage of ripening (uRo: unripe raspberry, Ro: ripe raspberry), and analyzed the active component (ellagic acid) present in these extracts. Our results showed higher inhibitory effects of the uRo extract in terms of elastase and collagenase activities than Ro extract. In the CCD-986sk cells, uRo extract significantly inhibited MMP-1 activity by 18% and increased the rate of type 1 pro-collagen synthesis by 25%. Besides, treatment with uRo extract significantly inhibited α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Overall, uRo was a more potent mediator of antiaging and anti-melanogenesis effects than Ro extract. Further analysis showed that the functional effects of uRo could be attributed to its 18.5 times higher ellagic acid content than that in Ro extract. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: This study reported the differential effect of the raspberry extracts depending on their stage of ripening. To the best of our knowledge, this was the first study to report the antiaging, anti-wrinkle, and anti-pigmentation effects of the uRo extracts. We showed that the extracts from the uRo have an overall better antiaging and skin-whitening effect than ripe ones. The effects were attributed to high ellagic acid content in uRo. We believed that our study makes a significant contribution to the literature because the outcome of the study has both, cosmetic as well as therapeutic implications.

Protection against UVB-Induced Photoaging by Nypa fruticans via Inhibition of MAPK/AP-1/MMP-1 Signaling

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation is major causative factor in skin aging. The aim of the present study was to investigate the protective effect of a 50% ethanol extract from Nypa fruticans (NF50E) against UVB-induced skin aging. The results indicated that NF50E exerted potent antioxidant activity (IC₅₀ = 17.55 ± 1.63 and 10.78 ± 0.63 μg/mL for DPPH and ABTS-radical scavenging activity, respectively) in a dose-dependent manner. High-performance liquid chromatography revealed that pengxianencin A, protocatechuic acid, catechin, chlorogenic acid, epicatechin, and kaempferol were components of the extract. In addition, the extract exhibited elastase inhibitory activity (IC₅₀ = 17.96 ± 0.39 μg/mL). NF50E protected against UVB-induced HaCaT cell death and strongly suppressed UVB-stimulated cellular reactive oxygen species generation without cellular toxicity. Moreover, topical application of NF50E mitigated UVB-induced photoaging lesions including skin erythema and skin thickness in BALB/C mice. NF50E treatment inhibited UVB-induced collagen degradation as well as MMP-1 and IL-1β expressions and significantly stimulated SIRT1 expression. Furthermore, the extract treatment markedly suppressed the activation of NF-κB and AP-1 (p-c-Jun) by deactivating the p38 and JNK proteins. Taken together, current data suggest that NF50E exhibits potent antioxidant potential and protection against photoaging by attenuating MMP-1 activity and collagen degradation possibly through the downregulation of MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling and SIRT1 activation.

In vitro and In vivo Activity of Myrsine africana on Elastase Inhibition and Anti-wrinkle Activity

Background:

Myrsine africana (MA) is a plant traditionally used in South Africa to treat various diseases.

Objective:

The ethanolic extract of MA, was used for in vitro and in vivo studies to determine its elastase inhibitory activity.

Materials and Methods:

MA and its isolated compound, myrsinoside B, were tested in vitro for their elastase inhibitory activity. The MA extract was also evaluated for mutagenicity using two strains of Salmonella typhimurium (TA 98 and TA 100), microbial count, metal analysis, and stability. In vivo studies included irritancy and wrinkle reduction trials using Visioscan and Visioface.

Results:

The leaf extract showed good elastase inhibition with a 50% inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) of 28.04 μg/ml. Myrsinoside B inhibited the elastase enzyme at an IC₅₀ of 4.68 ± 0.34 μg/ml. No colony growth observed during mutagenicity studies and it was concluded that MA ethanolic extract is a nonmutagen. MA extract was found to be a nonirritant during the patch test clinical trial. MA was found to contain negligible amounts of microorganisms and heavy metals. Gel cream containing MA crude extract was found to be stable for 2 years when kept at temperatures below 30°C. In clinical trials (in vivo), it was found that the test product containing 5% ethanolic extract of MA was effective in reducing wrinkles after application 2 times a day for 14 days and 28 days compared to the placebo aqueous cream.

Conclusion:

MA is effective in reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

SUMMARY

This is a first time report of the elastase inhibitory potential of Myrsine africana and myrsinoside B and the anti-wrinkle potential of Myrsine africana

Myrsine africana ethanolic extract effectively inhibited the elastase enzyme

Myrsine africana was effective in in vivo studies to reduce the appearance of wrinkles after 14 days.

Abbreviations used: 4-NQO: 4-nitroquinoline, D14-BL: Baseline to day fourteen, D28-BL: Baseline to day twenty-eight, CFU: Colony forming units, IC₅₀: 50% inhibitory concentration, MA: Myrsine africana, MOU: Measurement of uncertainty, NaCl: Sodium chloride, NaH₂ PO₄.H₂O: Sodium phosphate monobasic monohydrate, SEM: Standard error of the mean, TA 98: Salmonella typhimurium strain 98, TA 100: S. typhimurium strain 100, TLC: Thin layer chromatography, TMA: Total microbial activity, XVB salt: Vogel-Bonner medium E.

Diosmin/essential oil combination for dermal photo-protection using a lipoid colloidal carrier

Solar irradiation induces skin inflammatory processes causing deleterious effects like premature ageing. In this study, the designed lipoid colloidal carrier (LCC) was loaded with Diosmin in combination with different essential oils, to be used as a topical photo-protective preparation. To investigate the ability of the essential oils to potentiate Diosmin effects, the Diosmin/essential oil-loaded LCCs (LCC2, LCC3 and LCC4) were compared to the Diosmin-loaded LCC (LCC1). The incorporated essential oils were those of Rosmarinus officinalis, Zingiber officinale or Vitis vinifera in LCC2, LCC3 and LCC4, respectively. All the LCCs had particle size (PS) values ranging from 121.1 to 144.3nm with uniform distribution and, zeta potential (Z) values around 30mV. Also, they all had high drug encapsulation efficiencies. LCC1 had the lowest anti-oxidant and in-vitro sun-blocking effect (p<0.05). In-vivo photo-protective studies showed that all the formulated LCCs had a skin protective effect when compared to the positive control (p<0.05); however LCC1 had the lowest anti-erythemal and anti-wrinkling effect. Histological studies proved the efficacy of the designed LCCs as skin anti-photoageing, with LCC1 showing the lowest anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkling effect, while LCC2 had the highest anti-wrinkling effect. These results indicated that the suggested Diosmin/essential oil combinations improved the anti-oxidant, sun-blocking and anti-photoageing effects of Diosmin. After one year of storage, the LCCs showed satisfactory physical stability. This study presents the designed LCCs as safe and effective nano-structured dermal care products containing 'all-natural' components.

Formulation and evaluation of a water-in-oil cream containing herbal active ingredients and ferulic acid

Background and aims

The main aims of the present study were to formulate an anti-age cream based on vegetal ingredients and ferulic acid and to evaluate the physical characteristics and the efficacy of the cream.

Methods

The active ingredients were Centella asiatica oil, Spilanthes acmella oil, Zingiber officinale extract and ferulic acid. Formulation 1 (F1) was prepared using glyceryl stearate and Ceteareth-25® as emulsifiers and Formulation 2 (F2) using glyceryl stearate and potassium cetyl phosphate, all other ingredients remaining the same. The physical characterization of the creams was performed and the following parameters were analyzed: viscosity, oil droplet size, polydispersity index; also, texture analysis was performed. The anti-aging effect of the F2 was evaluated by assessing the cutaneous density before and after cream application using DUB-cutis® scanner.

Results

The mean diameter of oil drops was 10.26±4.72 mm (F1) and 22.72±7.93 mm (F2) and the polydispersity index was 35.4% and 45.7%, respectively. The mean values for consistency were 594.7±10.3 g (F1) and 300.5±14.5 g (F2), the average values for adhesion were 15.61±0.8 mJ (F1) and 22.25±4.3 mJ (F2), for firmness were 51.2±0.8 g (F1) and 30.3±4.3 g (F2) and the spreadability had values between 72.63 mm2 (F1) and 73.3 mm2 (F2). In vivo study revealed that the mean values of the cutaneous density increased from 9.21±1.39 % to 12.50±1.44 % after 8 weeks of cream application. The herbal ingredients incorporated in the O/W cream base for the antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effect, induced changes of the cutaneous density, an important parameter which quantifies the regeneration process of the skin.

Conclusions

An anti-age cream containing herbal active ingredients and ferulic acid with appropriate physical characteristics was obtained. In vivo study of clinical efficacy revealed a positive effect on skin density, which increased after 8 weeks of cream application.

Epithelial-mesenchymal interaction mechanisms leading to the over-expression of neprilysin are involved in the UVB-induced formation of wrinkles in the skin

In clinical studies, the formation of facial wrinkles has been closely linked to the loss of elastic properties of the skin. Repetitive UVB irradiation of animal skin at suberythemal doses significantly reduces its elastic properties, resulting in the formation of wrinkles. That also elicits a marked alteration in the three-dimensional structure of elastic fibres, which is closely associated with a subsequent reduction in the elastic properties of the skin. While UVB irradiation stimulates the activity of skin fibroblast-derived elastase in the dermis, a synthetic inhibitor specific for skin fibroblast-derived elastase as well as an extract of Zingiber officinale (L.) Rose capable of inhibiting skin fibroblast-derived elastase, but not neutrophil elastase, prevented wrinkle formation in our studies of animal and human facial skin, respectively. The close interrelationship among wrinkle formation, elastic properties and elastic fibre linearity is revealed by the effects of different concentrations of the elastase inhibitor, which indicates that enhanced elastase activity by dermal fibroblasts plays a pivotal role in the UVB wrinkling mechanism. Fortunately, we were able to identify human skin fibroblast-derived elastase as the previously known enzyme neprilysin/neutral endopeptidase. Using both a UVB-conditioned medium assay and a co-culture system, we characterized the epithelial-mesenchymal interaction between keratinocytes and fibroblasts which leads to increased expression of neprilysin at the transcriptional, translational and enzymatic levels. Our results demonstrate that interleukin-1α and granulocyte-macrophage colony-stimulating factor are intrinsic cytokines secreted by UVB-exposed keratinocytes that stimulate the expression of neprilysin by skin fibroblasts.

Anti-wrinkle effects of a tuna heart H2O fraction on Hs27 human fibroblasts

With the increase in life expectancy, there is also growing interest in anti-aging treatments and technologies. The development of anti-aging functional drugs for the skin, and foods from natural sources, may offer solutions to this global matter. Aging involves structural, functional and biochemical changes that occur throughout cells and bodily tissues; the amount of hormones secreted from of all human organs, including the skin, decreases over time. Matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) genes (MMP-1 and -8) play an important role in the aging of skin fibroblasts. For example, an increased MMP expression causes accelerated aging and the degradation of skin elasticity-related genes. In the present study, we examined the anti-wrinkle effects of tuna heart extract which are mediated through the inhibition of MMPs in skin cells. Generally, tuna contains high concentrations of selenium and antioxidants, which serve to remove free radicals, and is known to delay skin and body aging. In addition, unsaturated fatty acids in tuna help to maintain the natural glossy look of skin, and increase skin elasticity, providing moisture for dry skin. A recent study confirmed the various bio-effects of boiled tuna extract and muscle. However, bioactivity studies using tuna heart are limited. Thus, in the present study, we obtained extracts and fractions of tuna heart, and examined their effects on Hs27 human fibroblast proliferation using an MTS assay. In addition, we measured procollagen type 1 levels and elastase activity, and performed β-galactosidase staining. We then measured the expression levels of phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase/Akt and MMP-related genes by western blot analysis and RT-PCR. Our results revealed that tuna heart extract decreased MMP expression by upregulating tissue inhibitors of metallopro-teinase-1 (TIMP-1) and decreasing elastase activity, thus exerting anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects by increasing collagen synthesis and promoting skin fibroblast proliferation. Thus, our data suggest that tuna heart (TH)-H₂O fractions exert anti-wrinkle effects on Hs27 cells.

Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Aging, and Anti-Melanogenic Properties of the Essential Oils from Two Varieties of Alpinia zerumbet

Here, we investigated the anti-oxidant and anti-aging effects of essential oils (EOs) from the leaves of Alpinia zerumbet (tairin and shima) in vitro and anti-melanogenic effects in B16F10 melanoma cells. The anti-oxidant activities were performed with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH); 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS); nitric oxide; singlet oxygen; hydroxyl radical scavenging; and xanthine oxidase. The inhibitory activities against collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were employed for anti-aging. The anti-melanogenic was assessed in B16F10 melanoma cells by melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The volatile chemical composition of the essential oil was analyzed with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The EO was a complex mixture mainly consisting of monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes. The results revealed that tairin and shima EOs showed strong anti-oxidant activities against DPPH and nitric oxide, hydroxyl radical scavenging activity, and xanthine oxidase inhibition. Compared to shima EO; tairin EO exhibited strong anti-aging activity by inhibiting collagenase, tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase (IC50 = 11 ± 0.1; 25 ± 1.2; 83 ± 1.6; and 213 ± 2 μg/mL, respectively). Both EOs inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity; thus, reducing melanin synthesis. These results suggest that tairin EO has better anti-oxidant/anti-aging activity than shima EO, but both are equally anti-melanogenic.

Biological mechanisms underlying the ultraviolet radiation-induced formation of skin wrinkling and sagging I: reduced skin elasticity, highly associated with enhanced dermal elastase activity, triggers wrinkling and sagging

The repetitive exposure of skin to ultraviolet B (UVB) preferentially elicits wrinkling while ultraviolet A (UVA) predominantly elicits sagging. In chronically UVB or UVA-exposed rat skin there is a similar tortuous deformation of elastic fibers together with decreased skin elasticity, whose magnitudes are greater in UVB-exposed skin than in UVA-exposed skin. Comparison of skin elasticity with the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in the dermis of ovariectomized rats after UVB or UVA irradiation demonstrates that skin elasticity is more significantly decreased in ovariectomized rats than in sham-operated rats, which is accompanied by a reciprocal increase in elastase activity but not in the activities of collagenases I or IV. Clinical studies using animal skin and human facial skin demonstrated that topical treatment with a specific inhibitor or an inhibitory extract of skin fibroblast-derived elastase distinctly attenuates UVB and sunlight-induced formation of wrinkling. Our results strongly indicated that the upregulated activity of skin fibroblast-derived elastase plays a pivotal role in wrinkling and/or sagging of the skin via the impairment of elastic fiber configuration and the subsequent loss of skin elasticity.

Effects of Egg Shell Membrane Hydrolysates on Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-Microbial Activity and Moisture-Protection

This study was conducted to examine the effects of eggshell membrane hydrolysates (ESMH) on the anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-microbial activity, and moisture-protection for cosmetic use. Whole ESMH (before fractionation), and fraction I (>10 kDa), fraction II (3-10 kDa), and fraction III (<3 kDa) of the hydrolysates were assessed in this experiment. As lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and IFN-γ caused the inflammation on Raw264.7 cell, whole ESMH and fraction I showed to be effective in inhibiting the induction of cell inflammation depending on the concentration, and also showed outstanding effect to suppress the skin inflammation. Fraction I inhibited collagenase and elastase activities to a greater extent than the other fractions, while all fractions had antibiotic effects at concentrations of 10 mg/disc and 20 mg/disc. In addition, it showed the moisture protection effects of skin on the holding amount and losing amount of moisture in upper-inner arm of the human body with a relatively low loss rate in skin, which confirmed that the hydrolyzed fractions of ESM helps to form the superior protective layer of moisture. It was concluded that ESMH fractions with different molecular weights, especially the 10 kDa fraction, have anti-lipopolysaccharide, anti-IFN-γ-induced inflammation, anti- collagenase and elastase activities, and thus can be used as a cosmetic agent to protect skin.

Methods for the discovery of new anti-aging products--targeted approaches

INTRODUCTION

Aging is considered to be one of the most complicated and heterogeneous phenomena and is the main risk factor for most chronic diseases, disabilities and declining health. Aging cells cease to divide and drive the progression of illness through various pathways. Over the years, a number of anti-aging medicines of natural and synthetic origin have been introduced. Indeed, some studies have identified senescent cells as potential therapeutic targets in the treatment of aging and age-related diseases.

AREAS COVERED

In this review, the authors highlight and critically review the possible mechanisms of the aging process and related illnesses. The authors give particular attention to illnesses, including Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease, skin aging and cardiovascular diseases.

EXPERT OPINION

Several reports have highlighted that mitochondria are a key factor in the progression of aging and neurodegenerative illnesses. This is due to their production of extra amounts of reactive oxygen species, which leads into progressive caspase-dependent apoptosis and cell death. Therefore, strategies to prevent/reduce oxidative stress-mediated aging, whether environmental, nutritional and pharmacological, need to be taken into account. Presently, Drosophila melanogaster and Caenorhabditis elegans, which focus on the evolutionary and genetic foundations of aging, have helped to establish the screening of several synthetic and natural compounds with large cohorts in a quick manner. However, there is yet to be any efficient experimental evidence to prove the exact role of senescent cells in age-related dysfunction and further studies are required to better understand these processes.

Epithelial-mesenchymal interaction during UVB-induced up-regulation of neutral endopeptidase

We recently reported that overexpression of the elastase NEP (neutral endopeptidase) by fibroblasts plays a pivotal role in the mechanism of UVB-induced skin wrinkling by degrading dermal elastic fibres. Since UVB does not penetrate to the dermis, we hypothesized that factors secreted by UVB-exposed keratinocytes in the epidermis trigger fibroblasts in the dermis to increase their expression of NEP which then degrades the elastic fibres. In the present study, we characterized the epithelial-mesenchymal interaction between keratinocytes and fibroblasts which leads to increased expression of NEP. Human fibroblasts co-cultured with UVB-exposed human keratinocytes in cell inserts significantly increased their expression of NEP at the transcriptional, translational and enzymatic levels. Neutralizing antibodies to IL (interleukin)-1α or GM-CSF (granulocyte/macrophage colony-stimulating factor) significantly abolished the increased expression of NEP at the enzymatic levels in human fibroblasts co-cultured with UVB-exposed human keratinocytes, whereas neutralizing antibodies to IL-6, IL-8 or TNFα (tumour necrosis factor α) had no such effect. The addition of IL-1α or GM-CSF, but not TNFα, IL-6 or IL-8, at concentrations ranging from 1 to 10 nM, significantly stimulated the expression of NEP in human fibroblasts at the transcriptional and translational levels. These findings suggest that IL-1α and GM-CSF are intrinsic cytokines secreted by UVB-exposed keratinocytes that stimulate expression of NEP by fibroblasts.

Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging

Skin aging involves degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) in both the epidermal and dermal layers, it leaves visible signs on the surface of skin and the physical properties of the skin are modified. Chronological aging is due to passage of time, whereas premature aging occurred due to some environmental factors on skin produces visible signs such as irregular dryness, dark/light pigmentation, sallowness, severe atrophy, telangiectases, premalignant lesions, laxity, leathery appearance and deep wrinkling. There are several synthetic skincare cosmetics existing in the market to treat premature aging and the most common adverse reactions of those include allergic contact dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions. Recent trends in anti-aging research projected the use of natural products derived from ancient era after scientific validation. Ample varieties of phytomolecules such as aloin, ginsenoside, curcumin, epicatechin, asiaticoside, ziyuglycoside I, magnolol, gallic acid, hydroxychavicol, hydroxycinnamic acids, hydroxybenzoic acids, etc. scavenges free radicals from skin cells, prevent trans-epidermal water loss, include a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or higher contribute to protect skin from wrinkles, leading to glowing and healthy younger skin. Present era of treating aging skin has become technologically more invasive; but herbal products including botanicals are still relevant and combining them with molecular techniques outlined throughout this review will help to maximize the results and maintain the desired anti-skin aging benefits.

Cell-based cytokine therapy for skin rejuvenation

The interaction between stem cells from human exfoliated deciduous teeth (SHEDs)-derived growth factors and human dermal fibroblast (HDF) has been investigated for the first time, as the application of SHEDs for dermal wound healing remains speculative. Stem cells from human exfoliated deciduous teeth have effects on HDFs by increasing collagen synthesis and by activating proliferation and migration activity of HDFs, suggesting that SHEDs or SHED-derived conditioned medium (SH-CM) can be used for the treatment of photoaging. Our results suggest that SHEDs and SH-CM should be constitutionally suited for photoaging treatment. Mainly with secreted growth factors or extracellular matrix proteins, SHEDs contribute to enhanced wound-healing potential of HDFs. Further mechanism studies using neutralizing antibodies against each growth factor may clarify the role of soluble factors of SHEDs in wound-healing process.

Coffea arabica extract and its constituents prevent photoaging by suppressing MMPs expression and MAP kinase pathway

UV is a potent factor in skin photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Therefore, investigating the inhibiting mechanisms of photoaging would be useful to enable development of agents to slow down the aging process. UV-irradiation increased metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, -3, and -9 and then causes collagen and elastin degradation, leading to the formation of coarse wrinkles and sagging skin. Polyphenols, a group of compounds, possessing a variety of biological activities including inhibition of MMP-1 and elastase, are widely distributed in plants including Coffea arabica. In this study, Coffea arabica leaves extract (CAE), its hydrolysates (CAH), chlororgenic acid and caffeic acid, are studied for their anti-photoaging effect. Coffea arabica leaves were extracted with methanol, and the extract was hydrolyzed with different concentrations of hydrochloric acid. The various concentrations of CAE, CAH, chlororgenic acid and caffeic acid were subject to MMPs and elastase inhibition tests. The fibroblast was used for collagen synthesis and MMP-1, -3, -9 inhibition tests on herbal extracts. The results showed that CAE stimulated type I procollagen expression, inhibited MMP-1, -3, -9 expression and inhibited the phosphorylation of JNK, ERK and p38. The results suggest that CAE can prevent photo-damage in skin through inhibiting MMP expression and MAP kinase pathway.

Evidence of effectiveness of herbal medicinal products in the treatment of arthritis. Part I: Osteoarthritis

Herbal medicinal products (HMPs) are used in a variety of oral and topical forms for the treatment of osteoarthritis. The aim of this study was to update a previous systematic review published in 2000. We searched electronic databases (MEDLINE, EMBASE, CISCOM, AMED, CINAHL, Cochrane registers) to June 2007, unrestricted by date or language, and included randomized controlled trials that compared HMPs with inert (placebo) or active controls in patients with osteoarthritis. Five reviewers contributed to data extraction. Disagreements were discussed and resolved by consensus with reference to Cochrane guidelines and advice from the Cochrane Collaboration.Thirty-five studies (30 studies identified for this review update, and 5 studies included in the original review) evaluating the effectiveness of 22 HMPs were included. However, due to differing HMPs, interventions, comparators, and outcome measures, meta-analysis was restricted to data from studies of three HMPs: topical capsaicin, avocado-soybean unsaponifiables, and the Chinese herbal mixture SKI306X showed benefit in the alleviation of osteoarthritic pain.Several studies investigating products from devil's claw, and a powder from rose hip and seed, reported favorable effects on osteoarthritic pain, whereas two studies of a willow bark extract returned disparate results. Three studies of Phytodolor N(R) were of limited use because doses and measures were inconsistent among trials. The remaining single studies for each HMP provided moderate evidence of effectiveness. No serious side effects were reported with any herbal intervention.Despite some evidence, the effectiveness of none of the HMPs is proven beyond doubt. The obvious potential benefits of HMPs in the treatment of osteoarthritis are reduced reliance on synthetic medications with the associated risks of harmful adverse events, but further clinical trials are necessary before HMPs can be adopted in osteoarthritis treatment guidelines.

Mechanism of UVB-induced wrinkling of the skin: paracrine cytokine linkage between keratinocytes and fibroblasts leading to the stimulation of elastase

In clinical studies, the formation of facial wrinkles has been closely linked to the loss of elastic properties of the skin. Repetitive irradiation of animal skin with UVB radiation at suberythemal doses significantly reduces its elastic properties, resulting in the formation of wrinkles. Repetitive UVB irradiation elicits a marked alteration in the three-dimensional structure of elastic fibers, which is closely associated with a subsequent reduction in the elastic properties of the skin. Although UVB irradiation stimulates the activity of fibroblast elastases in the dermis, a synthetic inhibitor specific for fibroblast elastases prevents wrinkle formation. The close interrelationships among wrinkle formation, elastic properties, and elastic fiber linearity are revealed by the effects of different concentrations of the elastase inhibitor (R(2)>0.9), suggesting that enhanced elastase activity by dermal fibroblasts plays a pivotal role in the UVB wrinkling mechanism. In in vitro studies we identified a paracrine linkage between keratinocytes and fibroblasts that leads to wrinkle formation through the upregulation of fibroblast elastases. These studies support our hypothesis for a mechanism of wrinkle formation by which cytokine expression is activated in epidermal keratinocytes by UVB radiation and triggers dermal fibroblasts to increase their expression of elastase.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 36-43; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.11.