Quartz plates for determining sun protectionin vitroand testing photostability of commercial sunscreens

Expert Recommendations on the Evaluation of Sunscreen Efficacy and the Beneficial Role of Non-filtering Ingredients

A variety of non-filtering agents have been introduced to enhance sunscreen photoprotection. Most of those agents have only weak erythema protective properties but may be valuable and beneficial in supporting protection against other effects of UV radiation, such as photoimmunosuppression, skin aging, and carcinogenesis, as well as photodermatoses. The question arises how to measure and evaluate this efficacy since standard SPF testing is not appropriate. In this perspective, we aim to provide a position statement regarding the actual value of SPF and UVA-PF to measure photoprotection. We argue whether new or additional parameters and scales can be used to better indicate the protection conferred by these products against the detrimental effects of natural/artificial, UV/visible light beyond sunburn, including DNA damage, photoimmunosuppression and pigmentation, and the potential benefits of the addition of other ingredients beyond traditional inorganic and organic filters to existing sunscreens. Also, we debate the overall usefulness of adding novel parameters that measure photoprotection to reach two tiers of users, that is, the general public and the medical community; and how this can be communicated to convey the presence of additional beneficial effects deriving from non-filtering agents, e.g., biological extracts. Finally, we provide a perspective on new challenges stemming from environmental factors, focusing on the role of the skin microbiome and the role of air pollutants and resulting needs for photoprotection.

Multicenter methodology comparison of the FDA and ISO standard for measurement of in vitro UVA protection of sunscreen products

In vitro standard methods are available and accepted worldwide to assess UVA protection of sunscreen products. Though, harmonisation of methods has made progress in the last decade, still two differing methods - one by FDA the other by ISO - are in use. In a multicentre study including 9 centres in Germany, 4 different commercial sunscreen products were assessed using both methods to discover their similarities and differences. UVA protection factor and Critical Wavelength were detected at various substrate type (sandblasted versus moulded PMMA plates), at different surface roughness of the plates as well as at different product application dose using two different irradiation spectra. Results: The strongest influence on UVA protection factor results from the surface roughness of the plates. Depending on the roughness (accepted range of 2 to 7 μm in the FDA method) a variability in the UVA protection factor of up to 25% was observed, while the much narrower definition of plate roughness by ISO (4.5 to 5.2 μm) had no relevant influence on the test results. Sandblasted plates in our assessment led to higher UVA protection factors and produced less scattered results compared to moulded plates. These differences were not pronounced. Application dose and spectra of the irradiation source were of negligible influence on UVA protection factor results for the investigated UV-filter combinations. The UVA protection factor which is the endpoint of the ISO method was found to be a parameter with a high potential to differentiate among different test products. The endpoint of the FDA method - the Critical Wavelength - was found to be an unambitious endpoint. Insensitivity to all described modifications of the method was observed. All investigated products performed similar and passed the Critical Wavelength criteria independent of method and parameters.

New Hybrid Organic/Inorganic Polysilsesquioxane-Silica Particles as Sunscreens

Effectiveness of organic sunscreens is limited by phototoxicity and degradation. Both of which can be significantly reduced by encapsulation in hollow particles or covalent incorporation into the solid structure of particles, but direct comparisons of the two methods have not been reported. In this study, physical encapsulation and covalent incorporation of sunscreens were compared with 1 mol % salicylate and curcumeroid sunscreens. 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate was physically encapsulated in hollow silica nanoparticles prepared by oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsion polymerizations (E-Sal). Some of these particles were coated with an additional shell or cap of silica to reduce leaking of sunscreen (cap-E-Sal). Covalent incorporation involved co-polymerizing tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) with 0.2 mol % of new salicylate and curcuminoid sunscreen monomers with triethoxsilyl groups. Particles were prepared with the salicylate attached to the silica matrix through single silsesquioxane groups (pendant; P-Sal) and two silsesquioxane groups (bridged; B-Sal). Particles based on a new curcuminoid-bridged monomer were also prepared (B-Curc). Sunscreen leaching, photodegradation, and sunscreen performance were determined for the E-Sal, cap-E-Sal, P-Sal, B-Sal, and B-Curc particles. Covalent attachment, particularly with bridged sunscreen monomers, reduced leaching and photodegradation over physical encapsulation, even with capping.

A green synthetic approach to synthesizing diverse 2-pyridones for their exceptional UV shielding functions

An efficient catalyst- and solvent-free multicomponent reaction of 4-oxo-4H-chromene-3-carbaldehydes with malonates and ammonium acetate was developed for diverse N-nonsubstituted 2-pyridones.

Safety and efficacy evaluation of gelatin-based nanoparticles associated with UV filters

The safety and efficacy assessment of nanomaterials is a major concern of industry and academia. These materials, due to their nanoscale size, can have chemical, physical, and biological properties that differ from those of their larger counterparts. The encapsulation of natural ingredients can provide marked improvements in sun protection efficacy. This strategy promotes solubility enhancement of flavonoids and yields an improved active ingredient with innovative physical, physicochemical and functional characteristics. Rutin, a flavonoid, has chemical and functional stability in topical vehicles exerting a synergistic effect in association with ultraviolet (UV) filters. However, the solubility of rutin is a limiting factor. Additionally, this bioactive compound does not have tendency to permeate across the stratum corneum. As an alternative to common synthetic based sunscreens, rutin-entrapped gelatin nanoparticles were designed. The present study investigated the pre-clinical safety of gelatin nanoparticles (GNPs) using an in vitro method and also assessed the clinical safety and efficacy of the association of GNPs with three commonly used chemical UV filters (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and methoxydibenzoylmethane). The non-irritant and adequate safety profile under sun-exposed skin conditions of the nanomaterials and the emulsions qualified the products for clinical efficacy assays. The in vivo results indicated that the GNPs increased the antioxidant protection of the emulsions developed. However, the presence of rutin in the nanosized material did not enhance performance on the SPF test. In conclusion, these findings characterized the nanomaterials as an innovative platform for multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

In vitro evaluation of sunscreens: an update for the clinicians

Topical sunscreens contain molecules or molecular complexes that can absorb, reflect, or scatter UV photons. Evaluation of the efficacy of sunscreen products has been made through the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), a mean of quantitatively assessing in vivo the degree of protection offered by sunscreen products against solar radiation. In vivo evaluation of SPF has several drawbacks. First of all, this evaluation method is expensive in terms of money and time. Moreover, it raises several ethical issues concerning the potential damage to skin volunteers. Several in vitro techniques have been developed, but at present there is no broadly accepted method. In this paper, we will discuss some of the recent advances concerning the in vitro evaluation of sunscreens which would be acceptable for replacing in vivo assays.

Development of a new in vitro method to evaluate the photoprotective sunscreen activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation

Sunscreen efficiency of biomolecules against UV-B radiation was generally determined in vitro by cosmetic methods which are not well-adapted for routine ecophysiological and bio-guidance studies in plant research laboratories. In this article, we propose a new in vitro method to evaluate the sunscreen photoprotective activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation. Because photosynthetic pigments are one of the first targets of UV-B radiation in plants, the experimental design is based on the ability of the tested substances to limit the degradation of sodium magnesium chlorophyllin (SMC), a derivative compound of natural chlorophyll. SMC photodegradation comparatively to natural chlorophyll and related to temperature, concentration and sample solvent were analyzed in order to optimize the experimental parameters. Then, the method was validated by testing nine standard UV filters used in the European cosmetic industry and by comparing results of their activity with those of a reference in vitro procedure. Finally, the method was applied to coastal and marine crude plant extracts. Results have shown that our procedure can be a good alternative to cosmetic methods with a rapid, sensitive and reproducible evaluation of the sunscreen activity of either pure standards or crude plant extracts in small amounts (30 mg).