Antioxidant capacity of 3D human skin EpiDermTMmodel: effects of skin moisturizers

Applications of Engineered Skin Tissue for Cosmetic Component and Toxicology Detection

The scale of the cosmetic market is increasing every day. There are many safety risks to cosmetics, but they benefit people at the same time. The skin can become red, swollen, itchy, chronically toxic, and senescent due to the misuse of cosmetics, triggering skin injuries, with contact dermatitis being the most common. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a system that can scientifically and rationally detect the composition and perform a toxicological assessment of cosmetic products. Traditional detection methods rely on instrumentation and method selection, which are less sensitive and more complex to perform. Engineered skin tissue has emerged with the advent of tissue engineering technology as an emerging bioengineering technology. The ideal engineered skin tissue is the basis for building good in vitro structures and physiological functions in this field. This review introduces the existing cosmetic testing and toxicological evaluation methods, the current development status, and the types and characteristics of engineered skin tissue. The application of engineered skin tissue in the field of cosmetic composition detection and toxicological evaluation, as well as the different types of tissue engineering scaffold materials and three-dimensional (3D) organoid preparation approaches, is highlighted in this review to provide methods and ideas for constructing the next engineered skin tissue for cosmetic raw material component analysis and toxicological evaluation.

Assessing the Oxidative State of the Skin by Combining Classical Tape Stripping with ORAC Assay

The antioxidant barrier system of the skin acts as the main defence against environmental pro-oxidants. Impaired skin oxidative state is linked to unhealthy conditions such as skin autoimmune diseases and cancer. Thus, the evaluation of the overall oxidative state of the skin plays a key role in further understanding and prevention of these disorders. This study aims to present a novel ex vivo model to evaluate the skin oxidative state by the measurement of its antioxidant capacity (AOC). For this the ORAC assay was combined with classical tape stripping and infrared densitometry to evaluate the oxidative state of the stratum corneum (SC). Outcomes implied the suitability of the used model to determine the intrinsic antioxidant capacity (iAOC) of the skin. The average iAOC of untreated skin was determined as 140 ± 7.4 µM TE. Skin exposure to UV light for 1 h reduced the iAOC by about 17%, and exposure for 2 h decreased the iAOC by about 30%. Treatment with ascorbic acid (AA) increased the iAOC in a dose-dependent manner and reached an almost two-fold iAOC when 20% AA solution was applied on the skin. The application of coenzyme Q10 resulted in an increase in the iAOC at low doses but decreased the iAOC when doses > 1% were applied on the skin. The results show that the combination of classical tape stripping and ORAC assay is a cost-effective and versatile method to evaluate the skin oxidative state and the pro-oxidate and antioxidative effects of topical skin treatments on the iAOC of the skin. Therefore, the model can be considered to be a valuable tool in skin research.

A comparison of the in vitro permeation of 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid in human skin and in a living skin equivalent (LabSkin™)

OBJECTIVES

The safety assessment of personal care products often entails determining dermal absorption of their ingredients. Such experiments are typically performed in human or animal skin in vitro; however, ethical and safety considerations are associated with obtaining these tissues. Several human skin equivalent models (HSEs) have been developed as alternatives to human tissue. The barrier function of such models however, is normally less developed than human skin. Here, we examine the permeability of the HSE LabSkin^TM to a model compound, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) compared with human skin.

METHODS

Skin uptake and permeation of EA was investigated in vitro using heat-separated human epidermis and LabSkin^TM . Finite dose (5 μL cm^-2 ) Franz-diffusion studies were conducted using 2 % (w/w) EA in a ternary solvent mixture comprising propylene glycol (PG), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML), and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These excipients are commonly used in cosmetic products and they have been reported to promote permeation of EA in a different model, namely porcine skin.

RESULTS

Permeation of EA through LabSkin^TM was evident from 2 h; however, EA permeation in human skin was not detected until 5 h. Similar amounts of EA permeated through the two membranes at time points 8, 10, 12 and 24 h (p > 0.05). The cumulative amounts of EA delivered through LabSkin^TM at 24 h were 41.3 ± 2.0 µg cm^-2 , corresponding to 55.1 ± 1.8 % of the applied dose. Similar amounts permeated across human skin, 49.4 ± 4.1 µg cm^-2 , accounting for 58.0 ± 4.2 % of the dose applied (p > 0.05).

CONCLUSION

The permeation of EA in LabSkin^TM compared well with results for human epidermis in terms of the permeation profiles and the cumulative amounts of EA that permeated. The data suggest that the skin barrier of the two models was similar with regard to their overall permeability to the hydrophilic active EA. The findings are promising for the use of LabSkin^TM as a surrogate for human skin in permeability testing. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and robustness of LabSkin^TM for delivery of other actives that span a range of physicochemical properties.

Cytoprotection of Antioxidant Biocompounds from Grape Pomace: Further Exfoliant Phytoactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Products

The goal of this study was to investigate the efficacy and the safety of grape pomace (Vitis labrusca L.) obtained from the winemaking process as an antioxidant raw material for cosmetic formulations. Grape pomace was dried and submitted to extraction with solvents. The extracts were filtered and freeze-dried. The extraction carried out with 75% acetone-water showed a better yield (1.9 g·g−1). High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis confirmed the presence of ellagic acid as an active biocompound in the extracts. The Total phenolic content of freeze-dried extracts reached 69.83 ± 1.02 mg for 75% acetone-water system. Antioxidant activity determined by the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method revealed there was no statistical difference between the extract (EC50 6.9 ± 0.21) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) (EC50 7.6 ± 0.71). Results of cytotoxicity showed that extracts from grape pomace were safe, even at the highest concentration tested (200 mg·mL−1) against the 3T3 cell line. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) analysis revealed that there were no morphological cell changes of cells treated. Cytoprotection of cells towards the oxidation promoted by the peroxide solution was observed in the lowest concentration tested (0.73 mg·mL−1). Grape pomace from the winemaking process revealed a significant antioxidant activity attributed to its biocompounds. The safety and efficacy of extracts of grape pomace as raw material for cosmetic formulations was proposed through cell culture assays.

Methods for evaluation of cosmetic antioxidant capacity

The skin as the largest part of human body is one of the main targets for ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, toxic chemicals and some metal ions, which share responsibility for the formation of free radicals. The resulting free radicals, both oxygen and nitrogen species are one of the main causes of aging due to impaired regulation of cell respiratory metabolism involving incomplete oxygen reduction in mitochondria and production a superoxide anion, hydroxyl radicals et al. In modern cosmetology to minimize the adverse effects of free radicals, antioxidants, which inhibit free radical reactions, mainly autoxidation processes are used. Currently, not only many cosmetic products containing antioxidants are available, but a large diversity of methods for determination of cosmetics antioxidant activity is also accessible. These methods can be divided into three main groups: in vitro, in vivo, and ex vivo as reported herein. Due to lack of standardization and validation it is necessary to use a variety of methods as well as conditions for those purposes, which are presented to the context.