On the effects of a plant extract of Orthosiphon stamineus on sebum-related skin imperfections

In vitro and in vivo study of the efficacy of a new sebum control essence

BACKGROUND

People with oily skin often suffer from skin problems such as oily face, blackheads, acne, and enlarged pores. It is necessary to regulate oily skin with skin care products.

AIMS

To develop an effective sebum control essence to reduce oiliness of skin.

METHODS

The composition of the essence was designed in consideration of different oil control mechanism targets. The skin irritation was assessed in 30 volunteers by a single application close patch test. The efficacy of the essence was evaluated by in vitro experiment, short- and long-term clinical trials with over 60 volunteers.

RESULTS

The results of both in vitro and clinical trials showed that the essence had significant oil control and moisturizing effect, the skin oil content decreased by 21.8% within 8 h and 30.05% after 28 days, which indicated that the essence could achieve rapid and persistent sebum control efficacy. In addition, the essence could relieve the problems of enlarged pores, blackheads and whiteheads in long-term use.

CONCLUSIONS

The essence developed in this study can alleviate the problems of oily skin from many aspects, and achieve an excellent effect in oily skin regulation. It is suitable for a daily application in oily skin regulation.

Assessment of Brassica oleraceae L. (Brassicaceae) extract loaded ethosomal gel as a versatile vesicular carrier system for dermocosmetic application: A noninvasive split-faced study

BACKGROUND

Plant extracts with rich ascorbic acid contents have greater antioxidant capability; extensively employed in skin beautifying products and protect skin from detrimental photodamaging environmental effects. Brassica oleraceae is having a substantial prospective toward cosmeceuticals owed by its profound activity against oxidation.

AIM

To develop an effective topical ethosomal gel loaded with Brassica oleraceae leaves extract with significant antioxidant activity.

METHODOLOGY

Valuation of antioxidant capability of plant leaves extract by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and quantification of ascorbic acid was done through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Ethosomes were prepared by cold method. Optimized suspension containing extract was incorporated in 2% Carbopol gel (test) along with extract solution (control). Noninvasive in vivo studies were performed for final product to assess its effects on skin by measuring melanin and erythema, sebum level, elasticity, moistness level, facial pores count and their area, skin wrinkling, and smoothness.

RESULTS

Brassica oleraceae (red cabbage) leaves extract exhibited significant antioxidant potential (85.64 ± 1.28%) with 14.22 μg/g of ascorbic acid; expressed prominent cosmetic effects in terms of skin melanin, erythema, sebum, elasticity, hydration, facial pores, wrinkles, and smoothness when incorporated in ethosomes. ANOVA test also exhibited positive significant (p ≤ 0.05) effects on skin.

CONCLUSION

Brassica oleraceae extract is a strong antioxidant with remarkable dermocosmetic benefits for skin.

PTP1B Inhibitory Flavonoids From Orthosiphon stamineus Benth. and Their Growth Inhibition on Human Breast Cancer Cells

In our preliminary screening study on the protein tyrosine phosphatase 1B (PTP1B) inhibitory and cytotoxic activities, an ethyl acetate soluble fraction of the aerial part of Orthosiphon stamineus Benth. was found to inhibit PTP1B activity. Thus, based on assay-guided isolation of this active fraction, ten compounds (1-10) were purified and evaluated for their inhibitory effects on PTP1B and their growth inhibition on MCF7, tamoxifen-resistant MCF7 (MCF7/TAMR), and MDA-MB-231 human breast cancer cell lines. Among the isolates, compounds 5, 6, 9, and 10 showed potencies against PTP1B with IC50 values of 9.76, 10.12, 6.88, and 8.92 μM, respectively, followed by compounds 1 and 4 with IC50 values of 16.92 and 22.25 μM. Kinetic study showed that the active compounds (1, 5, 9, and 10) possessed mixed-competitive inhibition, which was similar to the positive control (ursolic acid, IC50 value of 3.42 μM, mixed-competitive). The others showed noncompetitive inhibition (4 and 6). In addition, all these active compounds (1, 4-6, and 9-10) displayed growth inhibition on three cancer cell lines, especially the most PTP1B inhibitory flavanones (9 and 10) exhibited comparable inhibitory effects on MCF7, MCF7/TAMR, and MDA-MB-231 cancer cells (IC50 values of 11.5 and 15.4, 8.9 and 10.5, and 17.6 and 21.3 μM, respectively) with tamoxifen, the positive control used in this assay (IC50 values of 11.9, 12.1, and 12.7 μM, respectively). The results suggest that these active constituents from O. stamineus might be considered as new natural compounds for the development of anticancer agents via PTP1B inhibition.

Glucose Uptake Stimulatory and PTP1B Inhibitory Activities of Pimarane Diterpenes from Orthosiphon stamineus Benth

Seven pimarane diterpenes (1–7) were isolated from Orthosiphon stamineus Benth. by assay-guided isolation. All of the isolates possessed a 2-deoxy-2-((7-nitro-2,1,3-benzoxadiazol-4-yl)amino)-d-glucose uptake effect in 3T3-L1 adipocytes at concentrations of 5 and 10 μM. Most of them showed potent inhibition against protein tyrosine phosphatase 1B with IC₅₀ values ranging from 0.33 to 9.84 μM. In the kinetic study, all inhibition types were exposed for the examined potencies, including mixed-competitive (1), non-competitives (3 and 5), competitive (6), and uncompetitive (7). The results suggested that O. stamineus and its pimarane diterpenes might exert the hypoglycemic effect via the insulin signaling pathway targeting inhibition of protein tyrosine phosphatase 1B (PTP1B) activity.

Assessment of changes in biophysical parameters by dermocosmetic emulgel loaded with Cinnamomum tamala extract: A split-faced and placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Phenolic and flavonoid compounds found in plants alleviate the photo-damaging skin conditions by playing a major role in skin rejuvenation.

AIMS

The aim of the study was to explore the cosmeceutical effects of Cinnamomum tamala extract.

OBJECTIVE

Recent research was aimed to quantify phenols and flavonoids in the natural extract of C tamala leaves, to develop its phyto-cosmetic emulgel and to assess effects of emulgel on healthy human skin.

METHOD

Phenols and flavonoids in C tamala (CT) extract were quantified by using ELISA assay. Emulgel formulation loaded with 4% C tamala (CT emulgel) was developed, and its cosmetic effects were evaluated on the cheeks of 13 healthy female test volunteers by comparing with placebo (base). Facial parameters including melanin, erythema, sebum, and visible facial pores (size and area) were studied by using Mexameter^® , Sebumeter^® , and VisioFace^® at regular interval for 90 days.

RESULTS

Total phenolic content and total flavonoids content of C tamala leaves extract were found to be 73.08 ± 0.0078 mg GAE/g and 52.63 ± 0.0060 mg QE/g CT extract respectively. As compared to placebo (base), CT emulgel was found to be significantly (P ≤ .05) effective in minimizing skin photo-damaging effects by reducing the levels of melanin, erythema, and sebum and size and count of both fine and large facial pores.

CONCLUSION

Cinnamomum tamala leaves extract, being a rich source of phenols and flavonoids minimized the photo-damaging effects by reducing skin melanin, erythema, and excess sebum; improving the skin imperfections by reducing facial pore count and area as assessed by advanced imaging and bioengineering techniques.

Anti-sebum efficacy of guava toner: A split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Guava has benefit phytochemicals that are important for skin-disorder treatment. Nevertheless, its efficacy against oily skin has never been reported.

AIMS

The guava toner was developed and clinical evaluated.

METHODS

The base toner was formulated, accelerated stability tested, and sensory-evaluated in 10 volunteers. The highest preference base was incorporated with guava extract, stability examined, and skin irritation assessed in 21 volunteers by a single application close patch test. Anti-sebum efficacy was split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled evaluated in 21 volunteers for 28 days and monitored by Sebutape^® on forehead and nose.

RESULTS

The stable toner base with the greatest preference (83.20 ± 1.85%) was incorporated with 3%, 4.5%, and 6% of guava extract. The toners were stable with none of skin irritation. The toner with 6% guava extract was selected for efficacy evaluation. Guava toner significantly reduced oiliness of forehead (13.10 ± 3.67%, P < 0.05) and nose (21.43 ± 3.21%, P < 0.001) better than the base toner. The activity on nose was significantly noted (10.72 ± 3.51%, P < 0.05) since the 3rd week of application.

CONCLUSIONS

Anti-sebum guava toner was efficiently evidence approved and suitable for a daily application to improve the efficacy.

Evaluation of Sebostatic Activity of Juniperus communis Fruit Oil and Pelargonium graveolens Oil Compared to Niacinamide

As a facial skin condition, oily skin causes cosmetic problems, such as large pores, shiny appearance, and the feeling of greasiness and heaviness. Furthermore, extensive sebum production leads to common skin disorders such as acne vulgaris or seborrheic dermatitis. This study investigated the efficacy of sebum control tonics containing Juniperus communis fruit oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, or niacinamide. The effects of Juniperus communis fruit oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, and niacinamide on sebum excretion rates were investigated using Sebumeter®. Sebum measurements (Sebumeter® SM 815, Courage & Khazaka®, Köln, Germany) were made on the skin surface in three places by applying the sebumeter probe to the forehead after 10, 60, and 120 min from application of the tonic. The results indicated that the application of the tonic maintained a lower sebum secretion 10 min and 60 min after the application of the cosmetic, compared to those before it. However, a visible sebum-reducing efficacy after 2 h was reported only for tonic containing 0.25% Pelargonium graveolens oil and for the tonic with the addition of 3% niacinamide. After 2 h, the values of sebum measurements were 44 ± 5.13 a.u. and 58 ± 9.07 a.u., respectively. Our results show that the tonic with the addition of 0.25% Pelargonium graveolens oil is the most effective in reducing sebum production.