Predicting the efficacy of sunscreens in vivo veritas

The adverse consequences of not using sunscreens

The adverse effects of solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on normal skin are well established, especially in those with poorly melanized skin. Clinically, these effects may be classified as acute, such as erythema or chronic such as keratinocyte and melanocyte skin cancers. Apart from skin type genetics, clinical responses to solar UVR are dependent on geophysical (e.g., solar intensity) and behavioural factors. The latter are especially important because they may result in 'solar overload' with unwanted clinical consequences and ever greater burdens to healthcare systems. Correctly used, sunscreens can mitigate the acute and chronic effects of solar UVR exposure. Laboratory studies also show that sunscreens can inhibit the initial molecular and cellular events that are responsible for clinical outcomes. Despite public health campaigns, global trends continue to show increasing incidence of all types of skin cancer. Large-scale epidemiological studies have shown the benefits of sunscreen use in preventing skin cancer, though it is likely that sunscreen use has not been optimal in such studies. It is evident that without substantial changes in sun-seeking behaviour, sunscreen use is a very important part of the defence against the acute and chronic effects of solar exposure. Ideally, sunscreens should be able to provide the level of protection that reduces the risk of skin cancer in susceptible skin types to that observed in heavily melanized skin.

Sunscreens - another endangered species?

Skin cancer continues to increase in incidence year-on-year and represents the most common form of cancer across the globe. Every human undergoes premature ageing, particularly on the face, neck and hands. Both phenomena are driven primarily by chronic, daily exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). While sunscreen products play a primary role in the prevention of UVR skin damage, the active ingredients, i.e., UVR filters, are facing unprecedented challenges in the coming 10 years and their future is by no means certain. This article, therefore, reviews afresh the facts around photoprotection and the role of sunscreen products in the prevention of acute (sunburn) and chronic (cancer, photoageing) skin damage and compares/contrasts these with various emerging questions and opinions around UVR filter technology. We present a passionate defence of this remarkable technology, but also attempt to imagine a world without it.

Comparative sensory and instrumental analyses and principal components of commercial sunscreens

BACKGROUND

The initial contact of consumers when choosing sunscreens is through the trademark, packaging, perfume, and tactile feeling of the product, outlining the popular practice of sensory science.

AIMS

To describe the sensory and physical-mechanical profile of commercial sunscreens through sensory and instrumental analyses related to principal component analysis (PCA).

METHODS

Seven commercial sunscreens available on the Brazilian market and with a solar protection factor (SPF) of 30 were evaluated. Physical-mechanical profiling (rheological and textural analyses) was conducted by a trained panel, followed by sensory profile characterization and descriptive analysis. The results were assessed using the Spearman correlation coefficient and PCA.

RESULTS

The correlation or lack thereof of the instrumental parameters with most of the sensory aspects was demonstrated using the Spearman coefficient. PCA enabled us to identify the nature of the dissimilarities among the samples.

CONCLUSIONS

The obtained results highlight the importance of descriptive sensory analysis in the research and development of sunscreens, evidencing the significance of precisely informing the products' formulation in order to be chosen by the consumer.

Electromagnetic sunscreen model: implementation and comparison between several methods: step-film model, differential method, Mie scattering, and scattering by a set of parallel cylinders

Sunscreens protect from UV radiation, a carcinogen also responsible for sunburns and age-associated dryness. In order to anticipate the transmission of light through UV protection containing scattering particles, we implement electromagnetic models, using numerical methods for solving Maxwell's equations. After having our models validated, we compare several calculation methods: differential method, scattering by a set of parallel cylinders, or Mie scattering. The field of application and benefits of each method are studied and examples using the appropriate method are described.

Porcine ear skin as a biological substrate for in vitro testing of sunscreen performance

PURPOSE

The purpose of the study was to examine the use of skin from porcine ears as a biological substrate for in vitro testing of sunscreens in order to overcome the shortcomings of the presently used polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates that generally fail to yield a satisfactory correlation between sun protection factors (SPF) in vitro and in vivo.

PROCEDURES

Trypsin-separated stratum corneum and heat-separated epidermis provided UV-transparent substrates that were laid on quartz or on PMMA plates. These were used to determine surface roughness by chromatic confocal imaging and to measure SPF in vitro of 2 sunscreens by diffuse transmission spectroscopy.

RESULTS

The recovered skin layers showed a lower roughness than full-thickness skin but yielded SPF in vitro values that more accurately reflected the SPF determined in vivo by a validated procedure than PMMA plates, although the latter had in part roughness values identical to those of intact skin. Combination of skin tissue with a high roughness PMMA plate also provided accurate SPF in vitro.

CONCLUSIONS

Besides roughness, the improved affinity of the sunscreen to the skin substrate compared to PMMA plates may explain the better in vitro prediction of SPF achieved with the use of a biological substrate.

Sun protection and hydration of stratum corneum: a study by 2-D differential method

OBJECTIVE

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. Its components and its morphology (such as the size of its cells) play a role in sun protection, and it has been noted that the stratum corneum hydration can change these properties. Sunscreens, applied on the skin, can be more or less effective depending on the stratum corneum characteristics. We therefore propose to simulate the quality of the sun protection and the effect of the stratum corneum hydration on the sun protection.

METHODS

We first determined the sunscreen distribution on a plastic substrate using an optical coherence tomography device. We were then able to calculate, by 2-D differential method, the extinction of several sunscreens. We modelled the hydration of the stratum corneum, by changing the substrate with corneocytes of different thicknesses.

RESULTS

Our results showed that hydrated stratum corneum protects more against the UV. The benefit from changing the substrate varies depending on the sunscreen applied.

CONCLUSION

We modelled sunscreens on different substrates using electromagnetic simulations. To compare these results with measurements, we have to carefully hydrate or dehydrate the SC: the simulations did not take into account modifications of the surface (water on the surface for example) or any change in the characteristics of the stratum corneum other than the modification of the corneocytes thickness.