Topically applied L-carnitine effectively reduces sebum secretion in human skin

Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex

PURPOSE

This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations.

METHODS

The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters.

RESULTS

The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed.

CONCLUSION

The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

Efficacy of anti-sebum moisturizing cream containing 2% l-carnitine and 5% epigallocatechin gallate in seborrhea: A randomized clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Seborrhea leads to facial greasiness and unpleasant feeling. People with seborrhea also have trouble with selecting moisturizers. l-Carnitine and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) are reported anti-sebum properties. However, neither efficacy comparison nor the combination effect of the two topical anti-sebum agents was studied. Moisturizing cream with these agents is supposed to provide skin with an optimal water-oil balance.

AIMS

To compare the efficacy of moisturizer containing 2% l-carnitine or 5% EGCG alone on sebum controlling, and the synergistic effect of these two agents.

METHODS

Three study creams were formulated by adding three kinds of anti-sebum agents which were 2% l-carnitine, 5% EGCG, and 2% l-carnitine plus 5% EGCG in moisturizing cream base of dimethicone and glycerin. A randomized clinical trial was conducted. Ninety subjects, divided into three groups, applied the cream for 4 weeks. Sebum level, skin capacitance, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated at Weeks 0, 1, 2, and 4. Life qualities and subjective outcomes were assessed before and after treatment.

RESULTS

The mean sebum reduction from baseline was statistically significant in all treatment groups (p < 0.01). The median time to oil control was longer in l-carnitine group. The combine group had significantly greater anti-sebum efficacy than l-carnitine group (p = 0.009). All three groups had significant improvement of other objective parameters and subjective outcomes.

CONCLUSIONS

The anti-sebum moisturizing cream exhibited beneficial effect on the sebum reduction with improve skin hydration in people with seborrhea and made users satisfied. The EGCG group and the combine group show the greater anti-sebum effect than the l-carnitine group.

Influence of moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid on facial skin lipidome among seborrhea participants

BACKGROUND

A better understanding of skin lipidomics and its alteration under treatment administration might offer therapeutic solutions for seborrhea.

AIMS

To quantitatively and qualitatively explore the lipid-modifying effect of the moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid (LDCS) in seborrhea participants with and without acne vulgaris (AV).

PATIENTS/METHODS

We conducted an open-label explorative study on 20 seborrhea participants (10 AV and 10 non-AV). All participants applied LDCS for 8 weeks with the addition of benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel and adapalene 0.1%/benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel in AV. Skin surface lipid (SSL) assessments were performed biweekly, using Sebumeter® and lipid-absorbent Sebutapes® to collect forehead SSL for profile analysis by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

RESULTS

SSL amount significantly decreased since week 2 in AV (p-value = 0.0124) and week 6 in non-AV (p-value = 0.0098), respectively. Twenty-two important SSLs were annotated from GC-MS analysis, comprising 19 free fatty acids, cholesterol, squalene, and glycerol. There was a significant reduction in 5 and 13 lipid components in AV and non-AV groups, respectively.

CONCLUSION

LDCS, either alone or with topical acne treatment, demonstrated substantial sebusuppressive and lipid-modifying effects among seborrhea participants.

A Randomized, Double Blinded, Split-Face Study of the Efficacy of Using a Broad Spectrum Sunscreen with Anti-Inflammatory Agent to Reduce Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation After Picosecond Laser

BACKGROUND

Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a sequela of laser procedures observed commonly in darker-skin individuals. In general, regular UV filters are beneficial in preventing PIH, but the comparison with sunscreen containing anti-inflammatory ingredients remains unexplored.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of a sunscreen with anti-inflammatory agent (sunscreen A) in the reduction of PIH after a picosecond laser with that of regular sunscreen (sunscreen B).

METHODS

Fifty-nine acne vulgaris and acne scar patients with skin phototypes III and IV were treated with 1 session of picosecond laser with the microlens array to the whole face. Sunscreens A and B were randomized to be applied on either side of the face. Hyperpigmentation assessed by brown score mode on Visia^®, acne quantity, porphyrins and patient satisfaction were evaluated at baseline, weeks 1, 2, 4 and 6.

RESULTS

Sunscreen A caused a higher reduction of the brown score compared to the other side but there was no statistically significant difference. Interestingly, a significant decrease of inflammatory acne lesions compared with baseline was observed as early as week 2 on the sunscreen A side (weeks 2, 4 and 6; P = 0.017, P = <0.001, and P = <0.001, respectively). Compared with sunscreen B, levels of porphyrins on sunscreen A side were significantly less at weeks 1 and 6 (weeks 1 and 6; P = 0.022 and P = 0.029, respectively).

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrated a tendency towards lower post-laser pigmentation when the sunscreen with anti-inflammatory agents was applied. This product also had an effective outcome as an adjunctive treatment option of acne vulgaris.

THAI CLINICAL TRIALS REGISTRY ID

TCTR20210305004 (URL: http://www.thaiclinicaltrials.org/show/TCTR20210305004).

In Vitro and In Vivo Regulation of SRD5A mRNA Expression of Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extract from Asparagus racemosus Willd. Root as Anti-Sebum and Pore-Minimizing Active Ingredients

Oily skin from overactive sebaceous glands affects self-confidence and personality. There is report of an association between steroid 5-alpha reductase gene (SRD5A) expression and facial sebum production. There is no study of the effect of Asparagus racemosus Willd. root extract on the regulation of SRD5A mRNA expression and anti-sebum efficacy. This study extracted A. racemosus using the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid technique with ethanol and investigated its biological compounds and activities. The A. racemosus root extract had a high content of polyphenolic compounds, including quercetin, naringenin, and p-coumaric acid, and DPPH scavenging activity comparable to that of the standard L-ascorbic acid. A. racemosus root extract showed not only a significant reduction in SRD5A1 and SRD5A2 mRNA expression by about 45.45% and 90.86%, respectively, but also a reduction in the in vivo anti-sebum efficacy in male volunteers, with significantly superior percentage changes in facial sebum production and a reduction in the percentages of pore area after 15 and 30 days of treatment. It can be concluded that A. racemosus root extract with a high content of polyphenol compounds, great antioxidant effects, promising downregulation of SRD5A1 and SRD5A2, and predominant facial sebum reduction and pore-minimizing efficacy could be a candidate for an anti-sebum and pore-minimizing active ingredient to serve in functional cosmetic applications.

A Double-Blinded, Randomized, Vehicle-Controlled Study of the Efficacy of Moisturizer Containing Licochalcone A, Decanediol, L-Carnitine, and Salicylic Acid for Prevention of Acne Relapse in Asian Population

Many topical agents are available for treating the acute phase of acne; however, few agents have been proven beneficial during the maintenance phase. Objective. To evaluate the efficacy and safety of moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid during the maintenance phase of mild to moderate acne in Thai patients. Methods. One hundred and ten patients with mild to moderate acne vulgaris were initially treated with a fixed combination of adapalene 0.1%/benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel once daily for 8 weeks. Fifty patients who achieved at least 50% reduction in lesion counts or at least a 2-grade improvement in the Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA) grade from baseline were enrolled in the maintenance phase, which was an investigator-masked, left-right comparison, randomized, controlled, intraindividual study. Moisturizers with and without the active study ingredients were applied twice a day to each side of the face, respectively, for 12 weeks. Assessments included acne lesion counts, acne severity by IGA scoring, skin bioengineering measurements, and skin tolerability as assessed by both patient and physician. Results. The treatment group had a significant reduction in the mean counts of noninflammatory, inflammatory, and total lesions compared to the vehicle group at week 12 and also between baseline and week 12. There was no significant difference in the mean scores for skin dryness, stinging/burning, or pruritus at any time point between groups. Conclusions. Moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid reduced acne lesions and prevented the development of new lesions during the maintenance phase. This trial is registered with ClinicalTrials.gov registration no. NCT04002024.

Licochalcone A in Combination with Salicylic Acid as Fluid Based and Hydroxy-Complex 10% Cream for the Treatment of Mild Acne: A Multicenter Prospective Trial

Purpose

Topical cosmetic agents if correctly prescribed and used may improve outcomes in acne therapy. The aim of this study was to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a new daily cosmetic regimen in the treatment of mild facial acne.

Patients and methods

A multicenter, prospective, observational, clinical study was conducted on 91 adult patients with mild acne. Subjects were instructed to apply a fluid containing Licochalcone A/Salicylic acid/L-Carnitine in the morning and a cream with Licochalcone A/Hydroxy-Complex 10% at bedtime for 8 weeks. The efficacy was clinically evaluated by Global Acne Grading System (GAGS) score and by comedones/papules lesions count and by instrumental assessment (Sebutape^TMand Reveal Photo Imager/VISIA-CR™ imaging) at baseline, at 4 and 8 weeks.

Results

At 4 weeks a statistically significant reduction from baseline of GAGSwas observed. In addition, the mean total count of comedones and papules was significantly reduced by 41% and 45%, respectively, from baseline along with a significant reduction of mean sebum of 47%. At 8 weeks, a further statistically significant reduction from baseline of GAGS, total count of comedones and papules (64% and 71%, respectively), along with an additional sebum reduction of about 52% was also recorded.

Conclusion

Our results suggest that the daily regimen based on Licochalcone A with Salicylic acid/L-Carnitine as fluid or with Hydroxy-Complex 10% as cream represent an interesting cosmetic approach for treating mild acne.

Acne treatment efficacy of intense pulsed light photodynamic therapy with topical licochalcone A, l-carnitine, and decanediol: A spilt-face, double-blind, randomized controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Depending on disease severity, standard acne treatments can vary from topical to systemic therapy. However, poor compliance caused by adverse events and antibiotic resistance is a major cause of treatment failure.

AIMS

To determine the effectiveness of photodynamic therapy (PDT) with intense pulsed light (IPL) in the treatment of acne when combined with a cream containing licochalcone A, L-carnitine and decanediol (so-called, 'active formulation') versus PDT alone.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Twenty-nine volunteers, aged 21-39 years (26 women and 3 men, mean age 29.41 ± 5.24 years), with mild to severe facial acne, were enrolled. Each subject's face sides were randomized in a split-face manner to either receive PDT (IPL with a 400-720 nm cut-off filter, at 4 sessions with two-week intervals) combined with the active formulation cream twice daily for 10 weeks on one face side; or PDT and the vehicle cream on the other side, with the same treatment protocol. Reduction in acne quantity, melanin index and erythema index were assessed 2 weeks after the second treatment (day 28), 1 week after the fourth treatment (day 49), and 1 month after the fourth treatment (day 70).

RESULTS

Compared to baseline, patients in the active formulation group demonstrated a faster onset of reduction in the number of lesions at 2 weeks after the second treatment (p=0.010 for inflammatory acne and p=0.001 for non-inflammatory acne). A significantly greater reduction in lesion count was observed in the active formulation group compared with the vehicle group at all timepoints of evaluation for noninflammatory acne (day 28, day 49, and day 70; p=0.003, 0.005 and 0.002 respectively), and at 1 month after the fourth treatment for inflammatory acne (p=0.036). Compared to the vehicle group, the melanin index of the active formulation group decreased significantly at 1 month after the fourth treatment (p=0.015).

CONCLUSION

PDT is more effective in treating acne when combined with a topical cream containing licochalcone A, L-carnitine and decanediol, than PDT alone. Significant acne reduction and improvements in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation were observed, which offers acne patients a better therapeutic option. It is a safe and effective combination treatment for patients with moderate and severe acne.

Anti-sebum efficacy of guava toner: A split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Guava has benefit phytochemicals that are important for skin-disorder treatment. Nevertheless, its efficacy against oily skin has never been reported.

AIMS

The guava toner was developed and clinical evaluated.

METHODS

The base toner was formulated, accelerated stability tested, and sensory-evaluated in 10 volunteers. The highest preference base was incorporated with guava extract, stability examined, and skin irritation assessed in 21 volunteers by a single application close patch test. Anti-sebum efficacy was split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled evaluated in 21 volunteers for 28 days and monitored by Sebutape^® on forehead and nose.

RESULTS

The stable toner base with the greatest preference (83.20 ± 1.85%) was incorporated with 3%, 4.5%, and 6% of guava extract. The toners were stable with none of skin irritation. The toner with 6% guava extract was selected for efficacy evaluation. Guava toner significantly reduced oiliness of forehead (13.10 ± 3.67%, P < 0.05) and nose (21.43 ± 3.21%, P < 0.001) better than the base toner. The activity on nose was significantly noted (10.72 ± 3.51%, P < 0.05) since the 3rd week of application.

CONCLUSIONS

Anti-sebum guava toner was efficiently evidence approved and suitable for a daily application to improve the efficacy.

Evaluation of Sebostatic Activity of Juniperus communis Fruit Oil and Pelargonium graveolens Oil Compared to Niacinamide

As a facial skin condition, oily skin causes cosmetic problems, such as large pores, shiny appearance, and the feeling of greasiness and heaviness. Furthermore, extensive sebum production leads to common skin disorders such as acne vulgaris or seborrheic dermatitis. This study investigated the efficacy of sebum control tonics containing Juniperus communis fruit oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, or niacinamide. The effects of Juniperus communis fruit oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, and niacinamide on sebum excretion rates were investigated using Sebumeter®. Sebum measurements (Sebumeter® SM 815, Courage & Khazaka®, Köln, Germany) were made on the skin surface in three places by applying the sebumeter probe to the forehead after 10, 60, and 120 min from application of the tonic. The results indicated that the application of the tonic maintained a lower sebum secretion 10 min and 60 min after the application of the cosmetic, compared to those before it. However, a visible sebum-reducing efficacy after 2 h was reported only for tonic containing 0.25% Pelargonium graveolens oil and for the tonic with the addition of 3% niacinamide. After 2 h, the values of sebum measurements were 44 ± 5.13 a.u. and 58 ± 9.07 a.u., respectively. Our results show that the tonic with the addition of 0.25% Pelargonium graveolens oil is the most effective in reducing sebum production.

Meeting the Challenges of Acne Treatment in Asian Patients: A Review of the Role of Dermocosmetics as Adjunctive Therapy

Conventional acne treatment presents several challenges such as intolerable side effects and antibiotic resistance. Dermocosmetic products may be used to reduce these unwanted effects. Dermocosmetics include skin cleansers, topical sebum-controllers, skin antimicrobial/anti-inflammatory agents, moisturizers, sunscreens, and camouflage products. Appropriate use of these products may help augment the benefit of acne treatment, minimize side effects, and reduce the need for topical antibiotics. In Asia, there is currently limited scientific data on the application and recommendations for dermocosmetic use in acne vulgaris (AV). This article reviews the evidence on dermocosmetics for AV and provides practice recommendations as discussed during the 4^th Asia-Pacific Acne Leaders' Summit held in Bangkok, Thailand, on 7 and 8 February 2015. Through a premeeting survey, a series of plenary lectures, a stepwise program of discussion sessions, and Medline article review, the Expert Panel set forth relevant recommendations on the role of dermocosmetics as adjunct for treating AV in Asian patients.

A double-blinded, randomized, vehicle-controlled study to access skin tolerability and efficacy of an anti-inflammatory moisturizer in treatment of acne with 0.1% adapalene gel

INTRODUCTION

Topical retinoids are considered to be the first-line agents and maintenance therapy of acne; however, irritation side effects are major concern issues. Noncomedogenic moisturizers are sometimes added to relieve cutaneous irritations. This study aimed to compare tolerability and efficacy of moisturizers containing licochalcone A, l-carnitine and 1,2-decanediol (active formulation) with a placebo in mild to moderate severe acne in Asian subjects.

METHODS

This was an 8-week double-blind, prospective, randomized controlled study. All patients (n = 120) were randomized equally into three groups: (A) adapalene gel, (B) adapalene gel with the active formulation and (C) adapalene gel with the placebo. The severity of acne, skin bioengineering measurements and skin tolerability were recorded during the study.

RESULTS

Compared to baseline, the active formulation group showed significant reductions in inflammatory lesions and total lesions at the end of the study without flare-up. Moreover, skin irritations were less detected than in the other two groups by corneometer and transepidermal water loss measurements.

CONCLUSIONS

The concomitant usage of adapalene gel and the moisturizer containing licochalcone A, l-carnitine and 1,2-decanediol could reduce undesirable side effects without interfering the efficacy of adapalene. This moisturizer may be superior to placebo to prevent cutaneous irritations and enhance patients' adherence to acne medications.

A double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled efficacy assessment study of a skin care formulation for improvement of mild to moderately severe acne

BACKGROUND

Inflammation, increased sebum production and P. acnes colonization are key factors in acne pathogenesis. Cosmetic formulations based on a combination of active compounds with in vitro proven anti-inflammatory, sebum regulating and P. acnes reducing properties may therefore contribute to improve the clinical signs and associated burden of disease.

OBJECTIVE

To provide in vivo proof-of-concept, we performed a 9-week, double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled study to assess the stand-alone efficacy of a skin care formulation containing licochalcone A, l-carnitine and 1,2-decanediol in volunteers with mild to moderately severe acne (10-25 inflammatory lesions) involving the face.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

After enrolment followed by a 1-week standardization of the cleansing procedure, 60 volunteers aged 14-40 years (40 women and 20 men, mean age 22.4 years) were randomized into two groups of 30 volunteers each, to apply either the active formulation or the vehicle twice daily on the face for 8 weeks. Reduction in the lesion count, P. acnes and sebum levels, stratum corneum hydration, Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and skin tolerability, assessed after 4 and 8 weeks were defined as outcomes.

RESULTS

Compared to baseline, the active formulation group showed at the end of the study a reduction in the mean total lesions count and papular lesions, significant reduction in the pustules (P < 0.05) and sebum levels (P < 0.01), marked reduction in P. acnes and improvement of DLQI. No significant changes in the respective parameters were found in the vehicle group. At the end of the study, greater reduction in the total lesion count, papules and pustules, P. acnes colonization, sebum production and more pronounced improvement of life quality in the active formulation group compared to the vehicle were found.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results provide evidence for improved outcomes in result of the application of the active formulation compared to the vehicle from both physician's and patient's perspective.