Clinical efficacy of a serum integrating multiple cosmetic ingredients in the management of erythema of the face in aging skin

Efficacy of a retinoid complex plus anti-inflammatory component cream alone or in combination with prebiotic food supplement in adult acne: A randomized, assessor-blinded, parallel-group, multicenter trial on 184 women

BACKGROUND

Adult female acne (AFA) nowadays is a very common skin condition affecting mainly women aged between 25 and 40. The treatment of AFA could be challenging.

STUDY AIM

We evaluate and compare the efficacy and tolerability of a cream formulation containing two retinoid molecules (hydroxypinacolone/retinyl palmitate) combined with Iris Florentina root extract and a complex of three oligopeptides (C) applied twice a day (morning and evening) alone or in combination (C + O) with a food supplement containing a mixture of prebiotic molecules (FOS&GOS) zinc, lactoferrin, and niacinamide.

SUBJECTS AND METHODS

In a multicenter, randomized, assessor-blinded, 12-week trial, we assessed the efficacy of these two regimens in the evolution of AFA lesions (non-inflammatory: NI-L; inflammatory: IL; and total number of lesions: TL). Additional efficacy endpoints were the evolution of the 6-point (from 0 to 5) GEA and Adult Female Acne Scoring Tool (AFAST) scores.

RESULTS

One hundred and eighty-four women (mean age 32 ± 6 years) with AFA agreed to participate after obtaining informed consent. They were randomized (2:1) to the topical product (n = 123) (Group C) or to the combination (n = 61) (Group C + O) treatment. All enrolled patients concluded the trial with no drop-out. At baseline, NI-L, IL, and TL acne lesion count were 15 ± 9, 9 ± 5, and 24 ± 14 in the Group C and 19 ± 8, 9 ± 4, and 29 ± 10 in Group C + O. In comparison with the number of the acne lesions at the baseline, both treatment regimens induced a significant reduction (p = 0.0001, ANOVA test) at Week 12 in NI-L, IL, and TL by -54%, -63%, and - 59% in Group C and by -55%, -73%, and - 61% in the Group C + O, respectively. At Week 12, the absolute IL count reduction vs. baseline was significantly (p = 0.0158) greater in Group C + O (-7.0) in comparison with Group C (-5.5). The GEA absolute score reduction in Group C + O group was significantly greater in comparison with Group C (-1.5 vs. -1.1; p = 0.0097). In the Group C + O, a greater percentage of success treatment (defined as a GEA score of 0/1 at Week 12) was observed in comparison with Group C (39% vs. 27%; p = 0.06). AFAST score at baseline was 2.4 ± 0.5 in group C and 2.8 ± 0.6 in group C + O. AFAST score was reduced by 21% and by 51% after 6 and 12 weeks of treatment in group C and by 22% and 55% in group C + O, respectively. Both treatment regimens were well tolerated. Not relevant adverse events were recorded.

CONCLUSION

A cream containing retinoid molecules and Iris Florentina root extract is effective and well tolerated in the management of AFA. The treatment combination with a prebiotic and anti-inflammatory food supplement offers an additional clinical benefit mainly in reducing inflammatory lesions and improving the severity acne score.

Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Objective

To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin.

Methods

The anti‐inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014–2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo‐irritation, and photo‐sensitization were evaluated. Self‐assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use.

Results

Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E₂, interleukin‐6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo‐irritation, photo‐sensitization or product‐related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies.

Conclusion

The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self‐perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin.