The plastic sing effect of moisturizers on human skin in vivo: a measure of moisturizing potency?

Use of moisturizers among Danish atopic dermatitis patients-which perceived product characteristics associate with long-term adherence?

PURPOSE

To identify factors perceived as most important regarding choice and continued use of moisturizers for adult patients with AD.

METHOD AND MATERIALS

Online survey among members of the Atopic eczema society Denmark.

RESULTS

Among 75 participants, the most commonly tried (89.3%) and preferred (16%) product was Locobase^® (Leo Pharma, Denmark). A-derma^® (Pierre Fabre, France) had most continued use. The main reason for choosing preferred product was 'Best effect, in my experience' (36%). 'High lipid content' and 'GP/dermatologist suggested product' were considered as important main factors. 'Consistency', 'absorbs fast', and 'nice to wear' were secondary reasons for preferred product. A majority, 81.3% of respondents claimed to be very aware of perfumes and additives, 52% were very aware of allergy certification bodies on the product.

CONCLUSION

AD patients state that the most important factor when choosing a product is out of personal experience followed by high lipid content and recommended by GP/dermatologist. As secondary reasons 'consistency', 'absorbs fast', and 'nice to wear' were important. Respondents generally use more than one product and are aware of additives. Evidence-based guidance on the choice of emollients is needed. The role of the professionals supporting the patient in navigating this market of emollients is therefore particularly important.

Use of the Reviscometer for measuring cosmetics-induced skin surface effects

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

The Reviscometer RVM600 that measures resonance running time (RRT) has been shown to be inversely related to the skin stiffness. However, very few publications describe the use of this instrument for testing the effect of cosmetic products.

METHODS

Slight xerotic skin condition was induced by using an alkaline soap for 1 week. Skin has then been rehydrated with a lotion or further dehydrated and dried with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Skin condition at the different stages of the study was evaluated by visual assessment for dryness and redness and by non-invasive methods (Corneometer, Cutometer, Reviscometer, Evaporimeter and squamometry).

RESULTS

All methods showed highly significant changes after the slight drying phase with the soap usage. They illustrated skin repair after lotion treatment and further skin impairment after SLS application. Nevertheless, the Reviscometer was able to better statistically discriminate between the treatments (water, lotion, SLS) than the Cutometer . Measurement of the RRT along the transversal axis of the forearms was the most sensitive for differentiating between normal and dry skin and between the treatments on the basis of skin mechanical properties.

CONCLUSION

The Reviscometer RVM600 is a sensitive instrument able to detect slight skin surface effect of cosmetics. Combined with published literature on the interpretation of RRT measurements on polymeric gel or in different skin conditions (elderly skin and photoaged skin), the Reviscometer looks to be a recommendable instrument to measure slight changes in SC stiffness/suppleness induced by cosmetic products.

Plasticising effect of water and glycerin on human skin in vivo

Application of water and glycerin is known to influence skin mechanics. The kinetics of these processes are of great interest. A study was performed to show the immediate changes in skin-mechanics. A Dermaflex machine (R) was used to study 23 healthy volunteers. Water or glycerin was applied to the flexorside of the forearm, and readings were made after 3, 6, 9, 12 and 15 min. Regional untreated skin served as baseline. In agreement with earlier studies both substances influenced hysteresis. Water caused a significant increase in hysteresis after 12 and 15 min of hydration (P<0.01). Glycerin caused significantly increased hysteresis after 3 min (P<0.05) and the effect continued to the end of the observation period. No significant differences were seen in the distensibility. The onset of action is rapid for both substances, and the effects are therefore supposed to take place in the outermost layers of epidermis. The effect of glycerin on the hysteresis is more rapid in onset than that of water. Comparing the permeability coefficients, the effect on the mechanical properties of the skin does not appear to be determined by the permeability coefficients as water has a higher permeability coefficient but induces smaller changes than glycerin. Water alone does not appear to be the optimal plasticiser of human skin and other substances soluble in both water and lipids may have an even greater influence on skin mechanics in vivo.