Photoprotection in human skin--a multifaceted SOS response

Using cephalopod-inspired chemistry to extend long-wavelength ultraviolet and visible light protection of mineral sunscreens

OBJECTIVE

The emergence of new human and environmental-related toxicity data associated with some common UV filters has catalysed growing interest in the inclusion of boosters and stabilizing ingredients in sunscreens. One approach is to incorporate alternative materials inspired by or mimetic of systems in biology, which offer a notable evolutionary advantage of multifunctionality and stability with increased biocompatibility. We describe the use of a natural product, Xanthochrome® (INCI: Ammonium Xanthommatin), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its safety with marine systems but also its formulation compatibility and function in water-in-oil mineral sunscreens. Xanthochrome is the synthetic form of the naturally occurring chromophore xanthommatin (XA) present in cephalopod skin, which doubles as a photostable antioxidant; however, it has never been explored in combination with mineral UV filters in finished formulations.

METHODS

Given the recent controversies associated with the environmental toxicological effects of some chemicals used in sunscreens, the safety of XA with coral cuttings was first validated at concentrations 5× above those used in our formulations. Next, a particle-based delivery of XA was designed and incorporated into a zinc oxide (ZnO)-based water-in-oil sunscreen, where the SPF, critical wavelength, and visible light (VL) blocking potential were measured.

RESULTS

We observed no adverse effects of XA at 100 mg/L when tested with coral cuttings, demonstrating its safety at concentrations exceeding those used in our sunscreens. When formulated with ZnO-based sunscreens, the inclusion of XA increased the total UV absorbance profile by 28% and the total blocking potential of VL by 45%. The formulations also elicited no dermal irritation or sensitization in a human insult repeat patch test (N = 100 subjects).

CONCLUSIONS

XA is differentiated as a photostable, water-soluble compound that is a VL booster proven safe for skin and coral cuttings. To the best of our knowledge, there are no other boosters that can be classified as such, despite a growing body of literature highlighting the need in the industry.

Plants growing in Colombia as sources of active ingredients for sunscreens

INTRODUCTION

Plants can be sources of photoprotective/antigenotoxic compounds that prevent cellular mutations involved in skin cancer and aging by regulating UV-induced mutability.

PURPOSE

The study was aimed at investigating the sunscreen properties of plants growing in Colombia.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation-absorption capability of different plant extracts was examined. In vitro photoprotection efficacies were evaluated using in vitro indices such as sun protection factor (SPF_in vitro) and critical wavelength (λc). Pearson correlation analysis was used to examine the relationship between SPF_in vitro and complementary UVB- antigenotoxicity estimates (%GI) based on the SOS Chromotest database. The cytotoxicity in human fibroblasts was studied using the trypan blue exclusion assay. Major compounds of promising plant extracts were determined by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC/MS).

RESULTS

We showed that plant extracts have sunscreen properties against UVB, whereas broad-spectrum radiation protection efficacy was poor. SPF_in vitro and %GI were correlated (R = 0.71, p < .0001) for the plant extracts under study. Three extracts obtained from Achyrocline satureioides, Chromolaena pellia, and Lippia origanoides species resulted to possess high protection efficacy and relatively low cytotoxicity in human fibroblasts. These plant extracts contained major compounds such as α-pinene, trans-β-caryophyllene, γ-muurolene, γ-cadinene and caryophyllene oxide in A. Satureioides extract, trans-β-caryophyllene, caryophyllene oxide, squalene and α-amyrin in C. pellia extract, and p-cymene, carvacrol, trans-β-caryophyllene and pinocembrin in L. origanoides extract.

CONCLUSIONS

Plants growing in Colombia contain compounds that can be useful for potential sunscreens. SPF_in vitro and %GI estimates were correlated, but %GI estimates were more sensitive to detecting activity at lower plant extract concentrations. Our results supported the need to use DNA damage detection assays as a complement to photoprotection efficacy measurement.

In vivo quantification of quantum dot systemic transport in C57BL/6 hairless mice following skin application post-ultraviolet radiation

BACKGROUND

Previous work has demonstrated size, surface charge and skin barrier dependent penetration of nanoparticles into the viable layers of mouse skin. The goal of this work was to characterize the tissue distribution and mechanism of transport of nanoparticles beyond skin, with and without Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR) induced skin barrier disruption. Atomic absorption spectroscopy (AAS), flow cytometry and confocal microscopy were used to examine the effect of UVR dose (180 and 360 mJ/cm² UVB) on the skin penetration and systemic distribution of quantum dot (QD) nanoparticles topically applied at different time-points post UVR using a hairless C57BL/6 mouse model.

RESULTS

Results indicate that QDs can penetrate mouse skin, regardless of UVR exposure, as evidenced by the increased cadmium in the local lymph nodes of all QD treated mice. The average % recovery for all treatment groups was 69.68% with ~66.84% of the applied dose recovered from the skin (both epicutaneous and intracutaneous). An average of 0.024% of the applied dose was recovered from the lymph nodes across various treatment groups. When QDs are applied 4 days post UV irradiation, at the peak of the skin barrier defect and LC migration to the local lymph node, there is an increased cellular presence of QD in the lymph node; however, AAS analysis of local lymph nodes display no difference in cadmium levels due to UVR treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

Our data suggests that Langerhans cells (LCs) can engulf QDs in skin, but transport to the lymph node may occur by both cellular (dendritic and macrophage) and non-cellular mechanisms. It is interesting that these specific nanoparticles were retained in skin similarly regardless of UVR barrier disruption, but the observed skin immune cell interaction with nanoparticles suggest a potential for immunomodulation, which we are currently examining in a murine model of skin allergy.

Antigenotoxic Effect Against Ultraviolet Radiation-induced DNA Damage of the Essential Oils from Lippia Species

The antigenotoxicity against ultraviolet radiation (UV)-induced DNA damage of essential oils (EO) from Lippia species was studied using SOS Chromotest. Based on the minimum concentration that significantly inhibits genotoxicity, the genoprotective potential of EO from highest to lowest was Lippia graveolens, thymol-RC ≈ Lippia origanoides, carvacrol-RC ≈ L. origanoides, thymol-RC > Lippia alba, citral-RC ≈ Lippia citriodora, citral-RC ≈ Lippia micromera, thymol-RC > L. alba, myrcenone-RC. EO from L. alba, carvone/limonene-RC, L. origanoides, α-phellandrene-RC and L. dulcis, trans-β-caryophyllene-RC did not reduce the UV genotoxicity at any of the doses tested. A gas chromatography with flame ionization detection analysis (GC-FID) was conducted to evaluate the solubility of the major EO constituents under our experimental conditions. GC-FID analysis showed that, at least partially, major EO constituents were water-soluble and therefore, they were related with the antigenotoxicity detected for EO. Constituents such as p-cymene, geraniol, carvacrol, thymol, citral and 1,8-cineole showed antigenotoxicity. The antioxidant activity of EO constituents was also determined using the oxygen radical antioxidant capacity (ORAC) assay. The results showed that the antigenotoxicity of the EO constituents was unconnected with their antioxidant activity. The antigenotoxicity to different constituent binary mixtures suggests that synergistic effects can occur in some of the studied EO.

The SOS Chromotest applied for screening plant antigenotoxic agents against ultraviolet radiation

We proposed the SOS Chromotest for bioprospecting of plant genoprotective agents against UV-induced genotoxicity. The Colombian flora resulted to be a source of antigenotoxic compounds against UV.

A sunblock based on bioadhesive nanoparticles

The majority of commercial sunblock preparations use organic or inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filters. Despite protecting against cutaneous phototoxicity, direct cellular exposure to UV filters has raised a variety of health concerns. Here, we show that the encapsulation of padimate O (PO)--a model UV filter--in bioadhesive nanoparticles (BNPs) prevents epidermal cellular exposure to UV filters while enhancing UV protection. BNPs are readily suspended in water, facilitate adherence to the stratum corneum without subsequent intra-epidermal or follicular penetration, and their interaction with skin is water resistant yet the particles can be removed via active towel drying. Although the sunblock based on BNPs contained less than 5 wt% of the UV-filter concentration found in commercial standards, the anti-UV effect was comparable when tested in two murine models. Moreover, the BNP-based sunblock significantly reduced double-stranded DNA breaks when compared with a commercial sunscreen formulation.

Melanocortins and the melanocortin 1 receptor, moving translationally towards melanoma prevention

Beginning in the last decade of the twentieth century, the fields of pigment cell research and melanoma have witnessed major breakthroughs in the understanding of the role of melanocortins in human pigmentation and the DNA damage response of human melanocytes to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV). This began with the cloning of the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) gene from human melanocytes and the demonstration that the encoded receptor is functional. Subsequently, population studies found that the MC1R gene is highly polymorphic, and that some of its variants are associated with red hair phenotype, fair skin and poor tanning ability. Using human melanocytes cultured from donors with different MC1R genotypes revealed that the alleles associated with red hair color encode for a non-functional receptor. Epidemiological studies linked the MC1R red hair color variants to increased melanoma risk. Investigating the impact of different MC1R variants on the response of human melanocytes to UV led to the important discovery that the MC1R signaling activates antioxidant, DNA repair and survival pathways, in addition to stimulation of eumelanin synthesis. These effects of MC1R were absent in melanocytes expressing 2 MC1R red hair color variants that result in loss of function of the receptor. The importance of the MC1R in reducing UV-induced genotoxicity in melanocytes led us to design small peptide analogs of the physiological MC1R agonist α-melanocortin (α-melanocyte stimulating hormone; α-MSH) for the goal of utilizing them for melanoma chemoprevention.

Stress-induced hypermutation as a physical property of life, a force of natural selection and its role in four thought experiments

The independence of genetic mutation rate from selection is central to neo-Darwinian evolutionary theory. However, it has been continuously challenged for more than 30 years by experimental evidence of genetic mutation rate transiently increasing in response to stress (stress-induced hypermutation, SIH). The prominent concept of evolved evolvability (EE) explains that natural selection for strategies more competitive at evolutionary adaptation itself gives rise to mechanisms dynamically adjusting mutation rates to environmental stress. Here, we theoretically investigate the alternative (not mutually exclusive) hypothesis that SIH is an inherent physical property of all genetically reproducing life. We define stress as any condition lowering the capability of utilizing metabolic resources for genome storage and replication. This thermodynamical analysis indicates stress-induced increases in the genetic mutation rate in genome storage and in genome replication as inherent physical properties of genetically reproducing life. Further integrating SIH into an overall organismic thermodynamic budget identifies SIH as a force of natural selection, alongside death rate, replication rate and constitutive mutation rate differences. We execute four thought experiments with a non-recombinant lesion mutant strain to predict experimental observations due to SIH in response to different stresses and stress combinations. We find (1) acceleration of adaptation over models without SIH, (2) possibility of adaptation at high stresses which are not explicable by mutation in genome replication alone and (3) different adaptive potential under high growth-inhibiting versus high lethal stresses. The predictions are directly comparable to culture experiments (colony size time courses, antibacterial resistance assay and occurrence of lesion-reversion mutant colonies) and genome sequence analysis. Considering suggestions of drug-mediated disruption of SIH and attempts to target mutation-associated sites with chemotherapeutic agents to prevent resistance, our findings seem to be relevant knowledge for resistance-averse drug development and administration.

Telomere-mediated effects on melanogenesis and skin aging

UV-induced melanogenesis (tanning) and "premature aging" or photoaging result in large part from DNA damage. This article reviews data tying both phenomena to telomere-based DNA damage signaling and develops a conceptual framework in which both responses may be understood as cancer-avoidance protective mechanisms.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 25-31; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.9.

Basal cell carcinomas: attack of the hedgehog

Basal cell carcinomas (BCCs) were essentially a molecular 'black box' until some 12 years ago, when identification of a genetic flaw in a rare subset of patients who have a great propensity to develop BCCs pointed to aberrant Hedgehog signalling as the pivotal defect leading to formation of these tumours. This discovery has facilitated a remarkable increase in our understanding of BCC carcinogenesis and has highlighted the carcinogenic role of this developmental pathway when aberrantly activated in adulthood. Importantly, a phase 1 first-in-human trial of a Hedgehog inhibitor has shown real progress in halting and even reversing the growth of these tumours.

Inducible SOS response system of DNA repair and mutagenesis in Escherichia coli

Chromosomal DNA is exposed to continuous damage and repair. Cells contain a number of proteins and specific DNA repair systems that help maintain its correct structure. The SOS response was the first DNA repair system described in Escherichia coli induced upon treatment of bacteria with DNA damaging agents arrest DNA replication and cell division. Induction of the SOS response involves more than forty independent SOS genes, most of which encode proteins engaged in protection, repair, replication, mutagenesis and metabolism of DNA. Under normal growth conditions the SOS genes are expressed at a basal level, which increases distinctly upon induction of the SOS response. The SOS-response has been found in many bacterial species (e.g., Salmonella typhimurium, Caulobacter crescentus, Mycobacterium tuberculosis), but not in eukaryotic cells. However, species from all kingdoms contain some SOS-like proteins taking part in DNA repair that exhibit amino acid homology and enzymatic activities related to those found in E. coli. but are not organized in an SOS system. This paper presents a brief up-to-date review describing the discovery of the SOS system, the physiology of SOS induction, methods for its determination, and the role of some SOS-induced genes.