Non-invasive short-term assessment of retinoids effects on human skin in vivo using multiphoton microscopy

2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent melanogenesis inhibitor, exhibits a unique mode of action while preserving melanocyte integrity

Research on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High-throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance. The effectiveness of 2-MNG was confirmed by topical application on pigmented reconstructed epidermis and human skin explants. In addition, experiments have shown that unlike most melanogenesis inhibitors on the market, this molecule is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. 2-MNG binds to certain melanin precursors, preventing their integration into growing melanin and leading to inhibition of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis, without compromising the integrity of melanocytes.

Multiphoton FLIM Analyses of Native and UVA-Modified Synthetic Melanins

To better understand the impact of solar light exposure on human skin, the chemical characterization of native melanins and their structural photo-modifications is of central interest. As the methods used today are invasive, we investigated the possibility of using multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) imaging, along with phasor and bi-exponential fitting analyses, as a non-invasive alternative method for the chemical analysis of native and UVA-exposed melanins. We demonstrated that multiphoton FLIM allows the discrimination between native DHI, DHICA, Dopa eumelanins, pheomelanin, and mixed eu-/pheo-melanin polymers. We exposed melanin samples to high UVA doses to maximize their structural modifications. The UVA-induced oxidative, photo-degradation, and crosslinking changes were evidenced via an increase in fluorescence lifetimes along with a decrease in their relative contributions. Moreover, we introduced a new phasor parameter of a relative fraction of a UVA-modified species and provided evidence for its sensitivity in assessing the UVA effects. Globally, the fluorescence lifetime properties were modulated in a melanin-dependent and UVA dose-dependent manner, with the strongest modifications being observed for DHICA eumelanin and the weakest for pheomelanin. Multiphoton FLIM phasor and bi-exponential analyses hold promising perspectives for in vivo human skin mixed melanins characterization under UVA or other sunlight exposure conditions.

In vivo multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification of human skin aging on forearm and face

Quantifying skin aging changes and characterizing its 3D structure and function in a non-invasive way is still a challenging area of research, constantly evolving with the development of imaging methods and image analysis tools. In vivo multiphoton imaging offers means to assess skin constituents in 3D, however prior skin aging studies mostly focused on 2D analyses of dermal fibers through their signals’ intensities or densities. In this work, we designed and implemented multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification tools for in vivo human skin pigmentation and aging characterization. We first demonstrated that despite the limited field of view of the technic, investigation of 2 regions of interest (ROIs) per zone per volunteer is a good compromise in assessing 3D skin constituents in both epidermis and superficial dermis. We then characterized skin aging on different UV exposed areas—ventral and dorsal forearms, face. The three major facts of aging that are epidermal atrophy, the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) flattening and dermal elastosis can be non-invasively quantified and compared. Epidermal morphological changes occur late and were only objectified between extreme age groups. Melanin accumulation in suprabasal layers with age and chronic exposure on ventral and dorsal forearms is less known and appears earlier. Superficial dermal aging changes are mainly elastin density increase, with no obvious change in collagen density, reflected by SHGto2PEF ratio and SAAID index decrease and ImbrN index increase on all skin areas. Analysis of the z-dermal distribution of these parameters highlighted the 2nd 20 µm thickness normalized dermal sub-layer, that follows the DEJ shape, as exhibiting the highest aging differences. Moreover, the 3D ImbrN index allows refining the share of photoaging in global aging on face and the 3D SAAID index on forearm, which elastin or fibrillar collagens densities alone do not allow. Photoaging of the temple area evolves as a function of chronic exposure with a more pronounced increase in elastin density, also structurally modified from thin and straight elastic fibers in young volunteers to dense and compact pattern in older ones. More generally, multiphoton multiparametric 3D skin quantification offers rich spatial information of interest in assessing normal human skin condition and its pathological, external environment or product induced changes.

In vivo melanin 3D quantification and z-epidermal distribution by multiphoton FLIM, phasor and Pseudo-FLIM analyses

Characterizing melanins in situ and determining their 3D z-epidermal distribution is paramount for understanding physiological/pathological processes of melanin neosynthesis, transfer, degradation or modulation with external UV exposure or cosmetic/pharmaceutical products. Multiphoton fluorescence intensity- and lifetime-based approaches have been shown to afford melanin detection, but how can one quantify melanin in vivo in 3D from multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) data, especially since FLIM imaging requires long image acquisition times not compatible with 3D imaging in a clinical setup? We propose an approach combining (i) multiphoton FLIM, (ii) fast image acquisition times, and (iii) a melanin detection method called Pseudo-FLIM, based on slope analysis of autofluorescence intensity decays from temporally binned data. We compare Pseudo-FLIM to FLIM bi-exponential and phasor analyses of synthetic melanin, melanocytes/keratinocytes coculture and in vivo human skin. Using parameters of global 3D epidermal melanin density and z-epidermal distribution profile, we provide first insights into the in vivo knowledge of 3D melanin modulations with constitutive pigmentation versus ethnicity, with seasonality over 1 year and with topical application of retinoic acid or retinol on human skin. Applications of Pseudo-FLIM based melanin detection encompass physiological, pathological, or environmental factors-induced pigmentation modulations up to whitening, anti-photoaging, or photoprotection products evaluation.

Photo-aging evaluation - In vitro biological endpoints combined with collagen density assessment with multi-photon microscopy

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet exposure has profound effect on the dermal connective tissue of human skin.

OBJECTIVE

We aimed to develop and validate an evaluation method/methodology using a full-thickness reconstructed skin model, to assess the anti-photoaging efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and sunscreen formulas by blending multi relevant biological endpoints including the newly developed dermal collagen quantification method with Multi-photon microscopy.

METHODS

The response of ex vivo human skin to UVA exposure was first characterized with multiphoton microscopy. Reconstructed full-thickness skin models was then used to reproduce the data and to create a proof-of-concept study by treating the models with sunscreen prototypes A or B, which differ on their UVA absorption properties, and systemic Vitamin C (Vit C). After exposure to UVA, the collagen density was quantified via multiphoton microscopy with automatic imaging processing. Histology, fibroblasts number, metalloprotease 1 (MMP1) secretion were also assessed.

RESULTS

UVA exposure induced pronounced reduction in collagen density and increased MMP1 secretion within both ex vivo human skin and reconstructed skin. Histological damage and fibroblast disappearance was observed with reconstructed skin. Within the proof-of-concept study prototype B, possessing higher UVA filtration, gave better protection than prototype A on the UV associated biological markers, and association with Vit C boosted sunscreen formula efficacy.

CONCLUSIONS

The photoaging evaluation method, consists of multi biological markers as well as dermal collagen quantification, is a relevant mean to assess the pre-clinical efficacy of anti-photoaging ingredients and sunscreen products. This approach is also beneficial for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreens and photoprotective ingredients.

In vivo multiphoton imaging for non-invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

Background

In vivo multiphoton imaging and automatic 3D image processing tools provide quantitative information on human skin constituents. These multiphoton‐based tools allowed evidencing retinoids epidermal effects in the occlusive patch test protocol developed for antiaging products screening. This study aimed at investigating their relevance for non‐invasive, time course assessment of retinoids cutaneous effects under real‐life conditions for one year.

Materials and Methods

Thirty women, 55‐65 y, applied either retinol (RO 0.3%) or retinoic acid (RA 0.025%) on one forearm dorsal side versus a control product on the other forearm once a day for 1 year. In vivo multiphoton imaging was performed every three months, and biopsies were taken after 1 year. Epidermal thickness and dermal‐epidermal junction undulation were estimated in 3D with multiphoton and in 2D with histology, whereas global melanin density and its z‐epidermal distribution were estimated using 3D multiphoton image processing tools.

Results

Main results after one year were as follows: a) epidermal thickening with RO (+30%); b) slight increase in dermal‐epidermal junction undulation with RO; c) slight decrease in 3D melanin density with RA; d) limitation of the melanin ascent observed with seasonality and time within supra‐basal layers with both retinoids, using multiphoton 3D‐melanin z‐epidermal profile.

Conclusions

With a novel 3D descriptor of melanin z‐epidermal distribution, in vivo multiphoton imaging allows demonstrating that daily usage of retinoids counteracts aging by acting not only on epidermal morphology, but also on melanin that is shown to accumulate in the supra‐basal layers with time.

Imaging and quantifying drug delivery in skin - Part 2: Fluorescence andvibrational spectroscopic imaging methods

Understanding the delivery and diffusion of topically-applied drugs on human skin is of paramount importance in both pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. This information is critical in early stages of drug development and allows the identification of the most promising ingredients delivered at optimal concentrations to their target skin compartments. Different skin imaging methods, invasive and non-invasive, are available to characterize and quantify the spatiotemporal distribution of a drug within ex vivo and in vivo human skin. The first part of this review detailed invasive imaging methods (autoradiography, MALDI and SIMS). This second part reviews non-invasive imaging methods that can be applied in vivo: i) fluorescence (conventional, confocal, and multiphoton) and second harmonic generation microscopies and ii) vibrational spectroscopic imaging methods (infrared, confocal Raman, and coherent Raman scattering microscopies). Finally, a flow chart for the selection of imaging methods is presented to guide human skin ex vivo and in vivo drug delivery studies.

The skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin: in vitro evaluation using reconstructed pigmented human epidermis

OBJECTIVE

The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and its main ingredient paeoniflorin has been scarcely investigated by topical application. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin as skin whitening agent in cosmetic application.

METHODS

Paeonia lactiflora root extract (containing 53.25% of paeoniflorin) and paeoniflorin (97% purity) were applied topically on reconstructed pigmented human epidermis model, a three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalent, showing morphological and functional characteristics similar to those of in vivo human skin. Two specific methods were used for quantifying melanin inside the reconstructed pigmented epidermis: Fontana-Masson staining (2D quantification) and multiphoton microscopy (3D quantification).

RESULTS

Compared to vehicle (dimethyl sulfoxide DMSO), a significant decrease in 2D and 3D melanin content was observed after topical application on reconstructed pigmented epidermis of Paeonia lactiflora extract at 300 μg mL(-1) (-28% and -27%, respectively) and paeoniflorin at 120 μg mL(-1) /250 μM (-30% and -23%, respectively), which is in the same order of magnitude as the positive reference 4-n-butylresorcinol at 83 μg mL(-1) /500 μM (-26% and -40%, respectively).

CONCLUSION

These results demonstrate, for the first time, the depigmenting potential of paeoniflorin and thus the potential interest of using Paeonia lactiflora root extracts containing paeoniflorin in cosmetic or dermatological applications for reducing the severity of some hyperpigmented skin disorders.