New data on hyperpigmentation disorders

Emerging Trends in the Treatment of Skin Disorders by Herbal Drugs: Traditional and Nanotechnological Approach

Since the earliest days, people have been employing herbal treatments extensively around the world. The development of phytochemical and phytopharmacological sciences has made it possible to understand the chemical composition and biological properties of a number of medicinal plant products. Due to certain challenges like large molecular weight and low bioavailability, some components of herbal extracts are not utilized for therapeutic purposes. It has been suggested that herbal medicine and nanotechnology can be combined to enhance the benefits of plant extracts by lowering dosage requirements and adverse effects and increasing therapeutic activity. Using nanotechnology, the active ingredient can be delivered in an adequate concentration and transported to the targeted site of action. Conventional therapy does not fulfill these requirements. This review focuses on different skin diseases and nanotechnology-based herbal medicines that have been utilized to treat them.

UVB promotes melanogenesis by regulating METTL3

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the primary exogenous inducer of skin pigmentation, although the mechanism has not been fully elucidated. N6-methyladenosine (m6 A) modification is one of the key epigenetic form of gene regulation that affects multiple biological processes. The aim of this study was to explore the role and underlying mechanisms of m6 A modification in UVB-induced melanogenesis. Low-dose UVB increased global m6 A modification in melanocytes (MCs) and MNT1 melanoma cell line. The GEPIA database predicted that methyltransferase METTL3 is positively correlated with the melanogenic transcription factor MITF in the sun-exposed skin tissues. After METTL3 respectively overexpressed and knocked down in the MNT1, the melanin content and melanogenesis-related genes were significantly upregulated after overexpression of METTL3, especially with UVB irradiation, and downregulated after METTL3 knockdown. METTL3 levels were also higher in melanocytic nevi with high melanin content. METTL3 overexpression and knockdown also altered the protein level of YAP1. SRAMP analysis predicted four high-potential m6 A modification sites on YAP1 mRNA, of which three were confirmed by methylated RNA immunoprecipitation. Inhibition of YAP1 expression can partially reverse melanogenesis induced by overexpression of METTL3. In conclusion, UVB irradiation promotes global m6 A modification in MCs and upregulates METTL3, which increases the expression level of YAP1 through m6 A modification, thereby activating the co-transcription factor TEAD1 and promoting melanogenesis.

Skin Health Promoting Effects of Natural Polysaccharides and Their Potential Application in the Cosmetic Industry

Skincare is one of the most profitable product categories today. Consumers’ demand for skin-friendly products has stimulated the development of natural-ingredient-based cosmeceutical preparations over synthetic chemicals. Thus, natural polysaccharides have gained much attention since the promising potent efficacy in wound healing, moisturizing, antiaging, and whitening. The challenge is to raise awareness of polysaccharides with excellent bioactivities from natural sources and consequently incorporate them in novel and safer cosmetics. This review highlights the benefits of natural polysaccharides from plants, algae, and fungi on skin health, and points out some obstacles in the application of natural polysaccharides.

Advances in Biomedical Functions of Natural Whitening Substances in the Treatment of Skin Pigmentation Diseases

Pigmentation diseases can lead to significant color differences between the affected part and the normal part, resulting in severe psychological and emotional distress among patients. The treatment of pigmentation diseases with good patient compliance is mainly in the form of topical drugs. However, conventional hydroquinone therapy contributes to several pathological conditions, such as erythema, dryness, and skin desquamation, and requires a longer treatment time to show significant results. To address these shortcomings, natural whitening substances represented by kojic acid and arbutin have gradually become the candidate ingredients of traditional local preparations due to their excellent biological safety. This review focuses on several natural whitening substances with potential therapeutic effects in pigmentation disease and their mechanisms, and a thorough discussion has been conducted into the solution methods for the challenges involved in the practical application of natural whitening substances.

Facial skin characteristics and concerns in Indonesia: A cross-sectional observational study

BACKGROUND

Facial skin characteristics and appearance vary according to ethnicity. While much of this knowledge is derived from the Caucasian population, lately there have been efforts to gain such understanding in various regions in Asia.  In this paper, we have built an understanding of such features in Indonesia. In Indonesia, a section of females wears a traditional veil (hijab) to cover the scalp and part of face. The influence of the hijab on facial skin attributes was also investigated.

METHODS

In a cross-sectional observational study design involving 419 female volunteers in Jakarta, Indonesia, facial skin attributes (colour, radiance, hydration, trans-epidermal water loss [TEWL], wrinkles, fine lines, pores, and sebum levels) and conditions (melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), solar lentigines/ senile lentigines, seborrheic keratoses and acne) were assessed by trained operators and dermatologists using standard validated instruments and scales.

RESULTS

With age, facial skin colour showed darkening in cheek; forehead on the other hand showed slight lightening. The skin evenness and radiance decreased, substantially. Aging attributes measured in terms of lines, wrinkles, and under-eye dark circles showed deterioration with age; the decline was progressively faster than colour change. Facial image data analysis corroborated these findings. Skin hydration remained similar across the age groups even though the skin barrier function measured in terms of TEWL improved with age. Sebum levels in the skin were similar up to the age of 50 but declined in the next group of 50-60 year. Pore severity increased with age. Melasma, seborrheic keratosis and PIH showed a high prevalence (>∼50%) at the young age group (20-30 years), itself. Melasma prevalence attained 100% in the age group of 41-50 year and onwards, and its severity similarly showed a steady rise with age. PIH on the other hand showed a steady decline with age. Solar lentigines prevalence (∼30%) did not change much across age groups, and the severity scores were similar in age groups up to 50 year but increased substantially in 51-60-year age groups. Seborrheic keratosis was similar (∼47%) in age groups up 20-40 year but steadily increased in upper age groups. Its severity was similar in the age groups of 20-30 year and 31-40 year but showed a two-fold increase in subsequent age groups. Acne was 10% in the age group of 20-30 year and declined gradually to 0.7% in the 51-60-year age group. Hijab wearers showed slight protection in skin colour darkening and improvement of evenness and radiance but were similar on aging (fine lines and wrinkles on crow's feet, under eye and peri-oral areas) markers to non-wearers. In general, in majority of age-groups, hijab wearers showed a higher prevalence of melasma, solar/senile lentigines, seborrheic keratosis and PIH.

Incobotulinum Toxin Type A for Treatment of Ultraviolet-B-Induced Hyperpigmentation: A Prospective, Randomized, Controlled Trial

Incobotulinum toxin A (IncoBoNT-A) is effective in preventing ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced hyperpigmentation. This prospective, randomized, controlled study aimed to evaluate the effect of IncoBoNT-A on the treatment of UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in 15 volunteers. Five hyperpigmentation squares (2 × 2 cm) were induced by local UVB on the abdomen at baseline. At Day 7, each site was randomized to receive no treatment (control), normal saline, or intradermal IncoBoNT-A injection with 1:2.5, 1:5, and 1:7.5 dilutions (12, 6, and 4 units, respectively). The mean lightness index (L*), hyperpigmentation improvement score evaluated by blinded dermatologists, and participant satisfaction scores were obtained at Days 21, 28, and 35. At Day 21, improvements in mean L* of 1:2.5, 1:5, and 1:7.5 IncoBoNT-A-treated, saline-treated, and control sites were 14.30%, 12.28%, 6.62%, 0.32%, and 4.98%, respectively (p = 0.86). At Day 28, the improvement in mean L* in IncoBoNT-A-treated groups was superior to that in the other groups. In terms of the hyperpigmentation improvement score, 12 participants (80%) experienced better outcomes with the IncoBoNT-A-injected site compared with the other sites. IncoBoNT-A, especially at higher concentrations, showed some positive effects on the treatment of UVB-induced hyperpigmentation. This may serve as an adjuvant treatment for hyperpigmentary conditions that are aggravated by UVB.

A study of botulinum toxin type A for the treatment of ultraviolet B-induced hyperpigmentation: a prospective, randomized, controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Botulinum toxin type A (BTX-A) has been used experimentally under various dermatological conditions. Recent studies have revealed a preventive effect of BTX-A against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin hyperpigmentation.

OBJECTIVE

We examined the effect of BTX-A for the treatment of UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in human.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

A prospective, double-blind, randomized controlled trial was conducted. UVB irradiation induced five separate hyperpigmented squares on the abdomen. Seven days after irradiation, all squares were randomly assigned to five intervention groups: control, 0.9% normal saline injection, 12 units (1:2.5), 6 units (1:5), and 4 units (1:7.5) of onabotulinum toxin injections. The lightness index (L*), hyperpigmentation improvement score rated by a blinded physician, and participant satisfaction scores were obtained at 14, 21, and 28 days after injection.

RESULTS

Fifteen participants (mean age 36.9 years, Fitzpatrick skin types III-IV) completed the study. The BTX-A (1:2.5)-treated site had a lower degree of hyperpigmentation at all time points, as measured by mean L* and hyperpigmentation improvement scores. However, there were no statistically significant differences between the groups. Participants were most satisfied with the control site.

CONCLUSION

Intradermal BTX-A injection had no therapeutic effect on UVB-induced hyperpigmentation. However, the role of BTX-A injections in the treatment of other hyperpigmentary conditions requires further elucidation.

An update on cosmetic procedures in people of color. Part 1: Scientific background, assessment, preprocedure preparation

Increased life expectancy, focus on appearance, and readily available and accessible cosmetic procedures have served to drive an increase in the number of nonsurgical cosmetic procedures performed in the last 20 years. Demographic shifts in the United States, with increases in diverse populations that seek nonsurgical cosmetic procedures, have resulted in the need for a better understanding of cultural preferences as well as structural and biological differences in the skin of people of color (POC). Although many advances in the form of cosmeceuticals, cosmetics, and photoprotection have been made to address the aesthetic needs of and minimize complications in POC, nonsurgical cosmetic procedures are required to address common aesthetic concerns. Gaps remain in the education of dermatologists regarding the appropriate selection and execution of nonsurgical cosmetic procedures in POC. This educational initiative will facilitate a favorable outcome and optimal cosmetic results for POC.

Sebocytes contribute to melasma onset

Melasma is a hyperpigmentary disorder with photoaging features, whose manifestations appear on specific face areas, rich in sebaceous glands (SGs). To explore the SGs possible contribution to the onset, the expression of pro-melanogenic and inflammatory factors from the SZ95 SG cell line exposed to single or repetitive ultraviolet (UVA) radiation was evaluated. UVA up-modulated the long-lasting production of α-MSH, EDN1, b-FGF, SCF, inflammatory cytokines and mediators. Irradiated SZ95 sebocyte conditioned media increased pigmentation in melanocytes and the expression of senescence markers, pro-inflammatory cytokines, and growth factors regulating melanogenesis in fibroblasts cultures. Cocultures experiments with skin explants confirmed the role of sebocytes on melanogenesis promotion. The analysis on sebum collected from melasma patients demonstrated that in vivo sebocytes from lesional areas express the UVA-activated pathways markers observed in vitro. Our results indicate sebocytes as one of the actors in melasma pathogenesis, inducing prolonged skin cell stimulation, contributing to localized dermal aging and hyperpigmentation.

[Sunscreens of the future: challenges and opportunities]

Sunscreens provide excellent protection against erythema and against chronic damage such as photoaging and skin cancer. Today's challenges concern safety of the products and improved methods for standardizing the evaluation of their efficacy. Other important topics are the further development of sunscreen products, as well as personalization of use. Personalized sun protection based on the phenotype, the genetic profiles and moreover the skin's microbiome - all linked to the identification of certain consumer susceptibility factors - is an exciting new area of research. In particular, the expansion with innovative topical agents such as DNA repair liposomes in improved galenic formulations with UV filters tailored to the skin phototype and new topical antioxidants could in future provide even more comprehensive sun protection. New antioxidants and other agents such as nicotinamide could increase systemic photoprevention. Sustainability will also be an important aspect to protect consumers, but also the environment (i.e. especially marine wildlife) from toxic effects of sunscreens.

Impact of visible light on skin health: The role of antioxidants and free radical quenchers in skin protection

Until recently, the primary focus of photobiology has centered on the impact of UV radiation on skin health, including DNA damage and oncogenesis; however, the significant effects of visible light (VL) on skin remain grossly underreported. VL has been reported to cause erythema in individuals with light skin (Fitzpatrick skin types [FSTs] I-III) and pigmentary changes in individuals with dark skin types (FSTs IV-VI). These effects have importance in dermatologic diseases and potentially play a role in conditions aggravated by sun exposure, including phototoxicity in patients with FSTs I to III and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma in patients with FSTs IV to VI. The induction of free radicals, leading to the generation of reactive species, is one driving mechanism of VL-induced skin pathologies, leading to the induction of melanogenesis and hyperpigmentation. Initial clinical studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of topical sunscreen with antioxidant combinations in inhibiting VL + UV-A1-induced erythema in FSTs I to III and reducing pigmentation in FSTs IV to VI. Antioxidants may help prevent the worsening of pigmentary disorders and can be incorporated into photoprotective strategies. It is essential that dermatologists and the public are aware of the impact of VL on skin, especially in patients with skin of color, and understand the available options for VL protection.

Acne and rosacea in skin of colour

Acne and rosacea are common inflammatory skin conditions present in numerous racial and ethnic groups. There are distinct differences in clinical presentation, exacerbating factors, potential triggers and consequences of both conditions in individuals with skin of colour (SOC), classified as Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI. For example, acne can be complicated by the development of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and keloid scarring in SOC, and this can influence treatment choice. Although rosacea is reported less frequently in SOC, this may be the result of delayed diagnosis or late presentation due to the difficulty in discerning the classic features of erythema in darker skin tones. In such cases, additional clues in the medical history and clinical examination may assist in making the diagnosis. This review aims to summarize nuances in both the diagnosis and management of these two common skin conditions in patients with SOC to support clinicians in providing an individualized treatment approach.

Thiamidol containing treatment regimens in facial hyperpigmentation: An international multi-centre approach consisting of a double-blind, controlled, split-face study and of an open-label, real-world study

Objective

Tyrosinase is the rate‐limiting enzyme in melanogenesis. Thiamidol is the most potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase out of 50 000 tested compounds. In clinical studies, it was shown to improve facial hyperpigmentation, post‐inflammatory hyperpigmentation and age spots significantly. To identify the optimal number of daily Thiamidol applications, we conducted a split‐face study comparing the efficacy and tolerability of four‐times with two‐times daily application. Subsequently, we evaluated the efficacy and tolerability of a typical face care regimen containing Thiamidol in a real‐world study.

Methods

The split‐face study was double‐blind, randomized, controlled, including two Thiamidol containing products (serum and day care SPF 30). The serum was applied twice daily on one half of the face and the day care SPF30 twice‐daily on the whole face. The real‐world study was open‐label, observational, including three Thiamidol containing products (day care SPF 30 in the morning, serum and night care in the evening). In both studies, subjects with mild‐to‐moderate facial hyperpigmentation applied the products over 12 weeks. Assessments included clinical and subjective grading of hyperpigmentation, skin condition, hemi‐/modified MASI, chromameter and clinical photography.

Results

In the split‐face study (n = 34), hyperpigmentation, skin roughness and hMASI improved all significantly (P < 0.001) versus baseline, with first visible results after two weeks of twice‐daily application. The four‐times daily application led to significant improvement versus the two‐times daily application. In the real‐world study (n = 83), all evaluated parameters, including skin condition and chromametry (n = 30), improved significantly (P < 0.001) in comparison with baseline and the corresponding preceding visits. The subjects judged the cosmetic properties of the products positively. In both studies, the products were well tolerated.

Conclusion

Four‐times daily Thiamidol improves facial hyperpigmentation significantly more than two‐times daily and is well tolerated by the subjects. The real‐world study with a typical face care regimen containing Thiamidol shows improvement of facial hyperpigmentation and confirms tolerability. Furthermore, the data provide evidence for the suitability of this three‐product Thiamidol regimen for day‐to‐day life.

Invitro effect of pine bark extract on melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, production of endothelin-1, and PPAR in cultured melanocytes exposed to Ultraviolet, Infrared, and Visible light radiation

BACKGROUND

French maritime pine bark (Pinus pinaster) extract (PBE), the registered trade name of which is Pycnogenol^® , has been studied for its depigmenting action due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-melanogenic activity. However, the mechanisms through which PBE are still not fully clear.

OBJECTIVE

Evaluate the impact of PBE on four in vitro parameters closely associated with cutaneous pigmentation, including melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, endothelin-1 (ED1), and production of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α, δ, and γ (PPAR α, δ, and γ), by studying the modulation of action of ultraviolet radiation A (UVA)/ultraviolet radiation B (UVB), infrared-A (IR-A), visible light (VL), and association of UVA/UVB, IR-A, and VL (ASS).

METHODS

Human melanocytes were incubated in a dry extract solution of PBE, exposed to UVA/UVB, IR-A, VL, and ASS for subsequent quantification of melanin, ED1, and PPAR α, δ, and γ. The effects of PBE on inhibition of tyrosinase activity were also performed by monophenolase activity assay.

RESULTS

UVA/UVB, IR-A, VL, and ASS radiation caused significant increases in the synthesis of melanin, ED1, and PPAR α, δ, and γ when compared to baseline control. However, PBE significantly reduced the production of melanin, ED1, and PPAR α, δ, and γ, as well as reducing about 66.5% of the tyrosinase activity.

CONCLUSIONS

PBE reduces in vitro melanin production by downregulating tyrosinase and reducing pigmentation-related mediators, such as ED1 and PPAR α, δ, and γ, therefore contributing to the inhibition of pathways associated with skin hyperpigmentation.

Skin erythema and pigmentation: a review of optical assessment techniques

BACKGROUND

Skin erythema may present due to many causes. One of the common causes is prolonged exposure to sun rays. Other than sun exposure, skin erythema is an accompanying sign of dermatological diseases such as acne, psoriasis, melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, fever, as well as exposure to specific electromagnetic wave bands.

METHODS

Quantifying skin erythema in patients enables the dermatologist to assess the patient's skin health. Therefore, quantitative assessment of skin erythema was the target of several studies. The clinical standard for erythema evaluation is visual assessment. However, the former standard has some imperfections. For instance, it is subjective, and unqualified for precise color information exchange. To overcome these shortcomings, the past three decades witnessed various methodologies that aimed to achieve erythema objective assessment, such as diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS), and both optical and non-optical systems.

DISCUSSION

This review article reports on the studies published in the past three decades where the performance, the mathematical tactics for computation, and the capabilities of erythema assessment techniques for cutaneous diseases are discussed. In particular, the achievements and limitations of the current techniques in erythema assessment are presented.

CONCLUSION

The profits and development trends of optical and non-optical methods are displayed to provide the researcher with awareness into the present technological advances and its potential for dermatological diseases research.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)—a less investigated representative of the genus—were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

Traditional Asian Herbs in Skin Whitening: The Current Development and Limitations

In Asia, the market for whitening cosmetics is expanding rapidly, more and more people prefer to use natural products. Driven by natural product demand and technical advances, herbal research is also developing fast. Lots of studies reported that Asian herbal reagents can reduce melanogenesis, these findings provide evidence for the whitening application of Asian herbs. However, the current development status and challenges of herbal research need attention too. By reviewing these studies, different problems in studying herbal formulas, extracts, and active ingredients were presented. One of the most influential troubles is that the components of herbs are too complex to obtain reliable results. Thus, an understanding of the overall quality of herbal research is necessary. Further, 90 most cited Asian herbal studies on whitening were collected, which were conducted between 2017 and 2020, then statistical analysis was carried out. This work provided a comprehensive understanding of Asian herbal research in skin whitening, including the overall status and quality, as well as the focuses and limitations of these studies. By proactively confronting and analyzing these issues, it is suggested that the focus of herbal medicine research needs to shift from quantity to quality, and the new stage of development should emphasize transformation from research findings to whitening products.

Characterization of Cistus × incanus L. and Cistus ladanifer L. Extracts as Potential Multifunctional Antioxidant Ingredients for Skin Protecting Cosmetics

Skin is constantly exposed to harmful environmental factors, causing photo-oxidative stress in cells and leading to the development of health and aesthetic problems. Multifunctional ingredients of everyday skincare products, possessing antioxidant, UV-protecting, anti-hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer-preventing properties are in high demand. Due to the high content of polyphenolic compounds Cistus × incanus L. and Cistus ladanifer L. are potentially interesting sources of cosmetic ingredients with multiple skin protecting functions. In this study eight extracts from dried C. incanus and C. ladanifer-aerial parts were prepared using 60% (v/v) or 100% (v/v) methanol, on a magnetic stirrer or in Soxhlet apparatus, and compared for their content of phytochemicals and properties important for the skin protection. Extracts from C. incanus prepared in 60% (v/v) methanol contained the highest amount of polyphenolic compounds (331.82-347.27 mg GAE/g DW) and showed the most significant antioxidant activity (IC₅₀ = 3.81-4.05 µg/mL). C. incanus extracts were also effective tyrosinase inhibitors (30-70% inhibition at 100 µg/mL). Statistical correlation analysis revealed that epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and myricitrin may be responsible for the antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential of C. incanus extracts. All analyzed extracts were cytotoxic for human melanoma cells A375 (IC₅₀ = 57.80-199.01 µg/mL), with C. incanus extract prepared in 100% (v/v) methanol using Soxhlet extraction being the most effective. The extracts did not significantly impair the growth of noncancerous human keratinocytes HaCaT. C. incanus and C. ladanifer extracts possess also natural sun protecting activity (SPF 3.42-3.77 at 100 µg/mL), enhancing their anti-hyperpigmentation and anti-melanoma potential.

Cistanche deserticola polysaccharide induces melanogenesis in melanocytes and reduces oxidative stress via activating NRF2/HO-1 pathway

As a main part of pigmentation disorders, skin depigmentation diseases such as vitiligo and achromic naevus are very common and get more attention now. The pathogenesis of depigmentation includes melanocyte dysfunction and loss, which are possibly caused by heredity, autoimmunity and oxidative stress. Among them, oxidative stress plays a key role; however, few clinical treatments can deal with oxidative stress. As reported, Cistanche deserticola polysaccharide (CDP) is an effective antioxidant; based on that, we evaluated its role in melanocyte and further revealed the mechanisms. In this study, we found that CDP could promote melanogenesis in human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs) and mouse melanoma B16F10 cells, it also induced pigmentation in zebrafish. Furthermore, CDP could activate mitogen‐activated protein kinase (MAPK) signal pathway, then up‐regulated the expression of microphthalmia‐associated transcription factor (MITF) and downstream genes TYR, TRP1, TRP2 and RAB27A. Otherwise, we found that CDP could attenuate H₂O₂‐induced cytotoxicity and apoptosis in melanocytes. Further evidence revealed that CDP could enhance NRF2/HO‐1 antioxidant pathway and scavenge intracellular ROS. In summary, CDP can promote melanogenesis and prevent melanocytes from oxidative stress injury, suggesting that CDP helps maintain the normal status of melanocytes. Thus, CDP may be a novel drug for the treatment of depigmentation diseases.

Photoprotection of the future: challenges and opportunities

The use of sunscreens is an important and essential component of photoprotection. Since their introduction during the first half of the last century, sunscreens have benefited enormously from major technological advances such as the development of novel UV filters; as a result, their efficacy in preventing UV-induced erythema is unequivocal. More recently, however, new challenges have appeared, which have prompted a robust discussion about the safety of sunscreens. These include topics directly related to photoprotection of human skin such as improved/alternative methods for standardization of assessment of the efficacy of sunscreens, but also many others such as photoprotection beyond UV, concerns about human toxicity and ecological safety, the potential of oral photoprotective measures, consequences of innovative galenic formulations. On a first glance, some of these might raise questions and doubts among dermatologists, physicians and the general public about the use sunscreens as a means of photoprotection. This situation has prompted us to critically review such challenges, but also opportunities, based on existing scientific evidence. We conclude by providing our vision about how such challenges can be met best in the future in an attempt to create the ideal sunscreen, which should provide adequate and balanced protection and be easy and safe to use.

A novel method for evaluating sun visible light protection factor and pigmentation protection factor of sunscreens

Introduction

The role of visible light (VL) in the process of skin pigmentation by solar radiation has been demonstrated. Sunscreens with the presence of pigments, particularly iron oxide (IO), have a greater protective effect against VL and are, therefore, highly recommended for prevention and treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders. This study aimed to evaluate 33 sunscreen formulations, and through spectrophotometric measurements, proposes new methods to evaluate the VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor.

Methods

33 sunscreen formulations marketed in Brazil were evaluated, including 17 products containing pigments and 16 products with no pigments. Spectrophotometric measurements were taken to determine solar VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor, based on the absorption curve of the product, the pigmentation action spectrum and sun spectrum.

Results

Sunscreen with pigments presented a higher solar VL protection factor and pigmentation protection factor compared to products without pigment. The statistical analysis showed a strong correlation between the solar VL protection factor and the integral of the absorption curve in the VL range and the transmittance reduction (%) in the same range. The correlation between the VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor was also demonstrated.

Conclusion

The VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor showed to be adequate metrics to estimate the effectiveness of sunscreens in the prevention of the pigmentary effect of solar VL and the pigmentary effect of the complete spectrum of immediate pigmentation.

Role of PGE-2 and Other Inflammatory Mediators in Skin Aging and Their Inhibition by Topical Natural Anti-Inflammatories

Human skin aging is due to two types of aging processes, “intrinsic” (chronological) aging and “extrinsic” (external factor mediated) aging. While inflammatory events, triggered mainly by sun exposure, but also by pollutants, smoking and stress, are the principle cause of rapid extrinsic aging, inflammation also plays a key role in intrinsic aging. Inflammatory events in the skin lead to a reduction in collagen gene activity but an increase in activity of the genes for matrix metalloproteinases. Inflammation also alters proliferation rates of cells in all skin layers, causes thinning of the epidermis, a flattening of the dermo-epidermal junction, an increase in irregular pigment production, and, finally, an increased incidence of skin cancer. While a large number of inflammatory mediators, including IL-1, TNF-alpha and PGE-2, are responsible for many of these damaging effects, this review will focus primarily on the role of PGE-2 in aging. Levels of this hormone-like mediator increase quickly when skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), causing changes in genes needed for normal skin structure and function. Further, PGE-2 levels in the skin gradually increase with age, regardless of whether or not the skin is protected from UVR, and this smoldering inflammation causes continuous damage to the dermal matrix. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, PGE-2 is strongly linked to skin cancer. This review will focus on: (1) the role of inflammation, and particularly the role of PGE-2, in accelerating skin aging, and (2) current research on natural compounds that inhibit PGE-2 production and how these can be developed into topical products to retard or even reverse the aging process, and to prevent skin cancer.

Functional MoS2 nanosheets inhibit melanogenesis to enhance UVB/X-ray induced damage

We produced highly dispersed MoS₂ nanosheets in water with the assistance of tryptophan (Trp) to inhibit melanogenesis by suppressing ROS production.