French maritime pine bark extract (pycnogenol) in association with triple combination cream for the treatment of facial melasma in women: a double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled trial

Efficacy and Safety of Nicotinamide 10%, Associated with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 5% and Hyaluronic Acid 5%, Compared to Hydroquinone 4% in Women with Facial Melasma: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Controlled Clinical Trial

Background

Nicotinamide has demonstrated efficacy in the treatment of melasma. Topical antioxidants and humectants may enhance its performance. Currently, there is no controlled trial on the combination of 10% nicotinamide, 5% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and 5% hyaluronic acid, a dermo-cosmetic compound, in comparison to 4% hydroquinone for the treatment of melasma. This study aimed to explore the tolerability and efficacy of the association of the combined product versus hydroquinone.

Methods

A randomized, double-blind trial involving women with facial melasma was conducted. Participants were instructed to apply the combined product (NIC group) twice daily or 4% hydroquinone for 60 days (HQ group) at night and placebo in the morning. Evaluations were performed at inclusion, after 14 and 60 days of treatment, measuring the modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), Melasma Quality of Life Scale (MELASQoL), and colorimetric luminosity. The Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) was assessed by a blinded evaluator.

Results

Both interventions led to a progressive improvement in mMASI, MELASQoL, and GAIS, without a difference between them on D14 and D60 (p>0.2). For NIC, the mean reduction (95% CI) in mMASI was 16% (8-24%) on D14 and 32% (23-41%) on D60, while for HQ, it was 10% (7-24%) on D14 and 43% (34-52%) on D60. Reduction in colorimetric luminosity was greater in the HQ group at D60 (p=0.01). No serious side effects were identified. Of the initially included 50 patients, one was lost to follow-up in the HQ group on D60, and one withdrew consent from the NIC group, both unrelated to treatment.

Conclusion

The association of 10% nicotinamide, 5% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and 5% hyaluronic acid was safe and well-tolerated, although its overall clinical efficacy was numerically inferior to 4% hydroquinone. This regimen can be considered for patients with poor tolerability to hydroquinone.

Clinical Trial Registration

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An Update on New and Existing Treatments for the Management of Melasma

Melasma is a chronic, acquired disorder of focal hypermelanosis that carries significant psychosocial impact and is challenging for both the patient and the treating practitioner to manage in the medium to long term. Multiple treatments have been explored, often in combination given the many aetiological factors involved in its pathogenesis. Therapeutic discoveries to treat melasma are a focal topic in the literature and include a range of modalities, with recent developments including updates on visible light photoprotection, non-hydroquinone depigmenting agents, oral tranexamic acid, chemical peels, and laser and energy-based device therapy for melasma. It is increasingly important yet challenging to remain up-to-date on the arsenal of treatments available for melasma to find an efficacious and well-tolerated option for our patients.

Sequential therapy with topical clobetasol for 14 days followed by hydroquinone versus hydroquinone alone in facial melasma treatment: a randomized, double-blind, controlled clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Clobetasol has demonstrated remarkable results in treating melasma within a short time frame; however, its use is limited because of the risk of local side effects. To date, there is no controlled trial on sequential clobetasol/hydroquinone for melasma. This study aimed to investigate the tolerability and efficacy of 0.05% clobetasol followed by 4% hydroquinone (CLOB-HQ) in comparison to the isolated use of 4% hydroquinone (HQ).

METHODS

A double-blinded, randomized clinical trial involving 50 women with facial melasma was performed. They were directed to apply 0.05% clobetasol every night for 14 days, followed by 4% hydroquinone for 46 days (CLOB-HQ group), or the use of hydroquinone for 60 days (HQ group). Evaluations were carried out at inclusion, and after 14 and 60 days of treatment, measuring modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), Melasma Quality of Life scale (MELASQoL), and colorimetry. The Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) was assessed by a blinded evaluator.

RESULTS

There was no difference in the main outcomes at D14 and D60 (P > 0.1). For CLOB-HQ, the mean (CI 95%) reduction in mMASI was 13.2% (5.1-21.3%) and 43.1% (32.2-54.0%) at D14 and D60, and for HQ, they were 10.6% (5.9-27.5%) and 44.8% (33.2-52.3%). The MELASQoL, colorimetric luminosity, and GAIS showed a progressive improvement for both groups despite no difference between them. No severe side effects were identified. No cases of telangiectasias, atrophy, or perioral dermatitis were associated with the use of CLOB.

CONCLUSION

The sequential CLOB-HQ regimen was safe and well tolerated, even though its efficacy was not different from HQ after 14 or 60 days of treatment. Based on these findings, the use of clobetasol 14 days before hydroquinone is not advisable for the treatment of melasma.

Melasma: A Step-by-Step Approach Towards a Multimodal Combination Therapy

Melasma is a common challenge in the field of pigmentary skin disorders, exerting a significant emotional and psychosocial burden on patients. The persistent and recurring nature of melasma complicates its management in routine clinical practice. This comprehensive review outlines a stepwise, practical approach encompassing diagnostic, preventive and therapeutic strategies for the management of melasma. A thorough exploration of aggravating and exacerbating factors, including sun exposure, hormonal imbalances, photosensitizing medication and cosmetics, is essential for a holistic assessment of the disease. With an emphasis on consistent and effective photoprotection, initial topical treatment modalities target the melanin production and/or the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes. Topical tyrosine inhibitors emerge as the first choice for reducing and preventing hyperpigmentation, with compounds such as thiamidol or tranexamic acid (TXA) being preferred for their safety profile over hydroquinone (HQ), kojic acid and arbutin. Combination with chemical peels can further enhance the therapeutic efficacy, even in cases with resistant melasma. In more severe cases, laser- and light-based interventions may be considered, but with the caveat of the likelihood of recurrence within 3-6 months. Assisted TXA delivery, via either fractional non-ablative laser or microneedling techniques, can further improve clinical outcomes. In conclusion, an optimal melasma management strategy is a multimodal approach, which includes effective photoprotection and a mix of different topical treatments targeting melanin synthesis, the anti-inflammatory environment, senescence and vascularity. Complementary procedures, such as chemical peels, and laser, light-based or microneedling procedures, with or without TXA, can further expedite melanin clearance in more severely affected instances. Individual discussions with patients regarding treatment expectations, recurrence likelihood and potential side effects are paramount to a comprehensive and successful therapeutic journey.

Best practices in the treatment of melasma with a focus on patients with skin of color

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a chronic hypermelanosis of the skin that affects approximately 1% of the global population, predominantly affects women, and is more prevalent in skin of color. Melasma is a common driver for patients with skin of color to seek out a dermatologist for treatment, and ensuring the right approach for these patients is important because some treatments may be associated with adverse side effects. Because of the chronicity of the disease and established psychosocial and emotional impacts, there is a large need to ensure care follows the best available evidence on the treatment of patients with melasma.

OBJECTIVE

Here, we summarized current available topical treatments for melasma with considerations dermatologists should have for their patients with skin of color.

METHODS

Steering committee consensus on clinical best practices.

RESULTS

We describe a flexible and focused treatment algorithm that reflects both treatment and maintenance periods that is a consensus of our extensive clinical experience.

LIMITATIONS

Use of real-world evidence and potential for individual practice bias.

CONCLUSION

Melasma can be challenging to treat, particularly in patients with skin of color, and our recommendations for best practices for patients in the United States are an important step toward standardizing care.

Evaluation of systemic oxidative stress in patients with melasma

BACKGROUND

The significance of oxidative stress has been assessed and proven in the etiopathogenesis of many cutaneous disorders, but there are few studies that evaluated the role of only some factors involved in oxidative stress in patients with melasma.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to examine the role of oxidative stress in melasma and assess the relationship between systemic oxidative stress and the severity and extension of this disease.

METHODS

In this study, the serum levels of superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GPX), catalase (CAT), malondialdehyde (MDA), protein carbonyl (PC), selenium (Se), vitamin E (vit E), and vitamin C (vit C) of fifty patients with melasma were compared with those of fifty controls.

RESULTS

The serum level of MDA was significantly higher in the melasma group (3.08 vs. 2.35 U/mL; p < 0.05), and it was positively correlated with the severity (r = 0.4; p < 0.001) and extension (r = 0.3; p < 0.05) of the disease. Furthermore, the serum level of vit C was significantly lower in melasma patients (2.16 vs. 2.57 μg/mL; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSION

Systemic oxidative stress has a key role in the etiopathogenesis of melasma. Serum concentrations of MDA and vitamin C are indicators of this impairment.

The Impact of Antioxidants on Vitiligo and Melasma: A Scoping Review and Meta-Analysis

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated during melanogenesis make melanocytes particularly vulnerable to oxidative stress, influencing their survival and melanin synthesis. Oxidative stress, significantly present in vitiligo and recently also detected in melasma, triggers inflammatory cascades and melanogenesis, making antioxidants a promising therapeutic avenue. A systematic search was conducted on Embase and Pubmed to study the efficacy of antioxidants for treating vitiligo and/or melasma. Meta-analysis was performed to assess the difference in Melasma Severity Index (MASI) scores between baseline and follow-up. Various antioxidants like polypodium leucotomos, ginkgo biloba, catalase/superoxide dismutase, and vitamin E have potential in vitiligo. For melasma, vitamin C, silymarin, and niacinamide were among those showing promise in reducing pigmentation, with vitamin C displaying significant effects in meta-analysis. Different antioxidants improve both vitiligo and melasma, with an increased minimal erythema dose (MED) following UV exposure being significant for vitiligo and tyrosinase inhibition being crucial for melasma. However, the efficacy of individual antioxidants varies, and their exact mechanisms, especially in stimulating melanocyte proliferation and anti-inflammatory pathways, require further investigation to understand better and optimize their use.

Topical and Systemic Therapies in Melasma: A Systematic Review

Introduction

Melasma is an acquired disorder, which presents with well-demarcated, brown-colored hyperpigmented macules, commonly involving the sun-exposed areas such as the face. It is a chronic and distressing condition, affecting the patients' quality of life, and has been conventionally treated with "first-line" agents including hydroquinone (HQ) alone or as a part of a triple combination cream (TCC), while "second-line" options include chemical peels, and third line options include laser therapy.

Materials and Methods

A systematic search was performed for all topical and systemic treatments for melasma up till May 4, 2021, using the PubMed and EMBASE databases, according to the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) protocol. The search terms "melasma" and "treatment" were used to search for the relevant articles on both these databases, and a total of 4020 articles were identified. After removing the duplicate entries and screening the titles, abstracts, and full-text articles, we identified 174 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) or controlled clinical trials.

Results

Based on our review, HQ, TCCs, sunscreens, kojic acid (KA), and azelaic acid receive grade A recommendation. Further large-scale studies are required to clearly establish the efficacy of topical vitamin C, resorcinol, and topical tranexamic acid (TXA). Several newer topical agents may play a role only as an add-on or second-line drugs or as maintenance therapy. Oral TXA has a strong recommendation, provided there are no contraindications. Procyanidins, Polypodium leucotomos (PL), and even synbiotics may be taken as adjuncts.

Discussion

Several newer topical and systemic agents with multimodal mechanisms of action have now become available, and the balance seems to be tipping in favor of these innovative modalities. However, it is worth mentioning that the choice of agent should be individualized and subject to availability in a particular country.

Understanding Melasma-How Can Pharmacology and Cosmetology Procedures and Prevention Help to Achieve Optimal Treatment Results? A Narrative Review

Melasma is a chronic skin condition that involves the overproduction of melanin in areas exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Melasma treatment is long-term and complicated with recurrence and resistance to treatment. The pathogenesis of melasma is highly complex with multiple pathologies occurring outside of the skin pigment cells. It includes photoaging, excessive melanogenesis, an increased number of mast cells, increased vascularization, and basement membrane damage. In addition, skin lesions related to melasma and their surrounding skin have nearly 300 genes differentially expressed from healthy skin. Traditionally, melasma was treated with topical agents, including hydroquinone, tretinoin, glucocorticosteroids and various formulations; however, the current approach includes the topical application of a variety of substances, chemical peels, laser and light treatments, mesotherapy, microneedling and/or the use of systemic therapy. The treatment plan for patients with melasma begins with the elimination of risk factors, strict protection against ultraviolet radiation, and the topical use of lightening agents. Hyperpigmentation treatment alone can be ineffective unless combined with regenerative methods and photoprotection. In this review, we show that in-depth knowledge associated with proper communication and the establishment of a relationship with the patient help to achieve good adherence and compliance in this long-term, time-consuming and difficult procedure.

Update on Melasma-Part II: Treatment

Melasma is a prevalent chronic relapsing pigmentary disorder that affects photoexposed areas, especially in women of childbearing age. Although there is currently no curative treatment available for melasma, this manuscript critically reviews the knowledge regarding photoprotection, topical and oral therapies, and procedures such as peelings, laser, and microneedling that represent the main strategies for control and prevention of this disease. As the pathogenesis of melasma is not entirely understood, there are prospects for the development of new therapeutic strategies that might act on the pathways that promote sustained pigmentation rather than merely decreasing melanin synthesis and removing melanin from the epidermis.

Evaluating the quality of life among melasma patients using the MELASQoL scale: A systematic review and meta-analysis

Background

According to the literature, pigmentary disorders have a significantly negative impact on a person’s health-related quality of life. Moreover, among pigmentary disorders, incidence of melasma ranks high. The Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) is the scale that is generally used to evaluate a melasma-affected area and its severity. However, the relationship between the MASI and Melasma Quality of Life (MELASQoL) scores, as well as the impact of melasma on patients’ quality of life, remain unclear.

Objectives

To explore the influence of melasma on patients’ lives, analyze the relationship between the MASI and MELASQoL scores, and identify the factors that may be influencing the quality of life of patients with melasma.

Methods

Two reviewers independently searched four databases (PubMed, Embase, the Cochrane Library, and Web of Science) for literature on quality of life of patients with melasma. In addition to an epidemiological study, a cross-sectional study, and validation studies, gray literature was also included. StataSE version 16 software was used for the meta-analysis. The score of each item on the MELASQoL scale was determined using a random-effects model.

Results

Fourteen studies with a total of 1398 melasma patients were included in the systematic review, four of which were eligible for meta-analysis. The relationship between the MELASQoL and MASI scores was found to be mixed. Five studies concluded that the MASI and MELASQoL scores were statistically correlated, while seven studies found no statistical correlation between the two. It is obvious that melasma causes emotional distress and has a negative impact on patients’ social lives. Patients were most bothered by the appearance of their skin condition. However, the MELASQoL score had no definite correlation with patient characteristics such as age, education levels, and history.

Conclusion

Melasma has a significant negative impact on patients’ quality of life. Thus, evaluating the quality of life of patients with melasma should not be ignored. Additionally, utilization of the MELASQoL scale should be considered in the care plan. Further studies with larger sample sizes are needed to confirm the relationship between melasma and quality of life.

Efficacy and safety of topical isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol (Thiamidol) vs. 4% hydroquinone cream for facial melasma: an evaluator-blinded, randomized controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Melasma can be refractory to treatment, and relapses are frequent. Thiamidol is a new potent tyrosinase inhibitor that has been found effective as a cosmeceutical for the depigmenting of melasma.

OBJECTIVE

This study compared the efficacy and tolerability of topical 0.2% Thiamidol vs. 4% hydroquinone for facial melasma.

METHODS

Fifty women with facial melasma participated in a randomized, evaluator-blinded, controlled study from September through November 2020. Patients were randomly assigned to apply a double layer of 0.2% Thiamidol twice a day or 4% hydroquinone cream at bedtime, for 90 days. Both groups received tinted sunscreen (sun protection factor 60, PPD 20). The primary outcome was the change from the baseline Modified Melasma Area Seve:rity Index (mMASI) score. Secondary outcomes were improvements in the patients' quality of life [Melasma Quality of Life Index (MELASQoL)], colourimetry, and Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) evaluation.

RESULTS

One participant, from the hydroquinone group, did not complete the study (unrelated to adverse effects). The mean (SD) age of the participants was 43 (6) years, and 86% were phototypes III-IV. Both groups exhibited a reduction in mMASI, MELASQoL, and colour contrast scores (P < 0.01). The mean [95% confidence interval (CI 95%)] reductions of the mMASI scores were 43% (35-50%) for Thiamidol and 33% (23-42%) for hydroquinone. There was no difference between the groups in the reductions in mMASI, MELASQoL, colourimetric contrast and GAIS scores (P ≥ 0.09). The GAIS analysis resulted in an improvement of 84% (CI: 95% 67-97%) for participants in the Thiamidol group and 74% (CI: 95% 61-93%) for those in the hydroquinone group. There were only mild adverse effects in the Thiamidol group, but allergic contact dermatitis was evidenced in two (8%) participants.

CONCLUSION

The melasma improvement achieved using 0.2% Thiamidol did not differ from that of 4% hydroquinone cream. Thiamidol can be considered a suitable option for melasma patients with poor tolerability or treatment failure with hydroquinone.

Invitro effect of pine bark extract on melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, production of endothelin-1, and PPAR in cultured melanocytes exposed to Ultraviolet, Infrared, and Visible light radiation

BACKGROUND

French maritime pine bark (Pinus pinaster) extract (PBE), the registered trade name of which is Pycnogenol^® , has been studied for its depigmenting action due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-melanogenic activity. However, the mechanisms through which PBE are still not fully clear.

OBJECTIVE

Evaluate the impact of PBE on four in vitro parameters closely associated with cutaneous pigmentation, including melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, endothelin-1 (ED1), and production of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α, δ, and γ (PPAR α, δ, and γ), by studying the modulation of action of ultraviolet radiation A (UVA)/ultraviolet radiation B (UVB), infrared-A (IR-A), visible light (VL), and association of UVA/UVB, IR-A, and VL (ASS).

METHODS

Human melanocytes were incubated in a dry extract solution of PBE, exposed to UVA/UVB, IR-A, VL, and ASS for subsequent quantification of melanin, ED1, and PPAR α, δ, and γ. The effects of PBE on inhibition of tyrosinase activity were also performed by monophenolase activity assay.

RESULTS

UVA/UVB, IR-A, VL, and ASS radiation caused significant increases in the synthesis of melanin, ED1, and PPAR α, δ, and γ when compared to baseline control. However, PBE significantly reduced the production of melanin, ED1, and PPAR α, δ, and γ, as well as reducing about 66.5% of the tyrosinase activity.

CONCLUSIONS

PBE reduces in vitro melanin production by downregulating tyrosinase and reducing pigmentation-related mediators, such as ED1 and PPAR α, δ, and γ, therefore contributing to the inhibition of pathways associated with skin hyperpigmentation.