SIG1273: a new cosmetic functional ingredient to reduce blemishes and Propionibacterium acnes in acne prone skin

Die Bedeutung von Mikrokomedonen bei der Akne: Von der Beschreibung bis zum Behandlungsansatz?: The role of microcomedones in acne: Moving from a description to treatment target?

Ein wichtiger Faktor in der Pathogenese der Akne vulgaris ist die duktale Hyperproliferation der Talgdrüsen. Diese beginnt mit der Bildung unsichtbarer Mikrokomedonen und führt im weiteren Verlauf zur Ausbildung sowohl entzündlicher als auch nicht‐entzündlicher klinischer Läsionen. Die Mikrokomedonen stehen am Anfang der zyklischen Entwicklung einer Akne, die als Komedogenese bezeichnet wird. Mikrokomedonen können mithilfe von Cyanoacrylat‐Hautablösungen, Elektronenmikroskopie, konfokaler Reflexionsmikroskopie und anderen Techniken nachgewiesen werden. Es wird angenommen, dass die Dichte und Größe von Mikrokomedonen positiv mit dem Schweregrad der Akne korreliert. Ziel dieser Übersichtsarbeit ist es, die Ursachen der Akne zusammenzufassen und darauf hinzuweisen, dass die Behandlung von Mikrokomedonen zumindest teilweise Akneläsionen beseitigen und Rückfälle verhindern könnte.

The role of microcomedones in acne: Moving from a description to treatment target?

A major factor in the pathogenesis of acne is ductal hyperproliferation in the pilosebaceous glands. This takes the form of invisible microcomedones and leads to the subsequent formation of both inflammatory and non-inflammatory clinical lesions. Microcomedones are the initial stage in the cyclical development of acne, so called comedogenesis. Microcomedones can be detected using cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping, electron microscopy, reflection confocal microscopy and other techniques. It has been proposed that the density and the size of microcomedones are positively correlated with acne severity. Thus, the purpose of this review is to summarize the root causes of acne, and suggest that treatment of microcomedones could, at least in part, resolve acne lesions and prevent relapse.

The updates and implications of cutaneous microbiota in acne

Acne is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder that profoundly impacts the quality of life of patients worldwide. While it is predominantly observed in adolescents, it can affect individuals across all age groups. Acne pathogenesis is believed to be a result of various endogenous and exogenous factors, but the precise mechanisms remain elusive. Recent studies suggest that dysbiosis of the skin microbiota significantly contributes to acne development. Specifically, Cutibacterium acnes, the dominant resident bacterial species implicated in acne, plays a critical role in disease progression. Various treatments, including topical benzoyl peroxide, systemic antibiotics, and photodynamic therapy, have demonstrated beneficial effects on the skin microbiota composition in acne patients. Of particular interest is the therapeutic potential of probiotics in acne, given its direct influence on the skin microbiota. This review summarizes the alterations in skin microbiota associated with acne, provides insight into its pathogenic role in acne, and emphasizes the potential of therapeutic interventions aimed at restoring microbial homeostasis for acne management.

N-Succinyl-S-Farnesyl-L-Cysteine (SFC): A Novel Isoprenylcysteine Analog with In Vitro Anti-Inflammatory Activity and Clinical Skin Protecting Properties

Over the past 15 years, small molecule isoprenylcysteine (IPC) analogs have been identified as a potential new class of topical anti-inflammatories. Clinical studies have demonstrated that IPCs are both safe and effective in promoting healthy skin when applied topically. This work aims to demonstrate N-Succinyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SFC) as a novel IPC molecule that provides a broad spectrum of benefits for skin. Human promyelocytic cell line HL-60, human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HDMECs), human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were exposed in culture to various inducers to trigger reactive oxygen species, cytokines, or collagenase production. A 49-subject randomized double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split face trial was performed with 1% SFC gel, or 5% niacinamide and vehicle applied for 12 weeks to evaluate anti-wrinkle and anti-aging endpoints. We demonstrated that SFC inhibited GPCR and TLR-induced pro-inflammatory cytokine release in NHEKs and HDMECs from several inflammatory inducers such as UVB, chemicals, cathelicidin, and bacteria. SFC successfully reduced GPCR-induced oxidation in differentiated neutrophils. Moreover, photoaging studies showed that SFC reduced UVA-induced collagenase (pro-MMP-1) production in HDFs. Clinical assessment of 1% SFC gel demonstrated improvement above the vehicle for wrinkle reduction, hydration, texture, and overall appearance of skin. N-Succinyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SFC) is a novel anti-inflammatory small molecule and is the first farnesyl-cysteine IPC shown to clinically improve appearance and signs of aging, while also having the potential to ameliorate inflammatory skin disorders.

Quantitative measurement of skin surface oiliness and shine using differential polarized images

Excess amounts of skin surface oil can lead to adverse psychological consequences. Grease-spot photometry-based techniques measure sebum production rate. However, besides being tedious, these measurements are influenced by contact area, applied pressure, and time of application. Image analysis of polarized images has the potential to provide objective, quantitative information of skin oiliness. This study was designed to set up an imaging device for capturing and enhancing the changes in skin surface oiliness and to clinically and quantitatively, (via image analysis), evaluate varying levels of skin surface oiliness. Mineral oil was used to simulate skin surface oil. 40.5 µL of the mineral oil was applied within a two inch square area of interest on facial skin in twelve steps, from 1 to 40.5 µL, at 40% increments. The results indicate a strong correlation between the quantitative skin surface oiliness measurements and the clinical assessments. This sensitive technique has the potential to be utilized in future studies to evaluate product efficacies in reducing skin oiliness.

SIG-1273 protects skin against urban air pollution and when formulated in AgeIQ™ Night Cream anti-aging benefits clinically demonstrated

BACKGROUND

SIG-1273 is a novel cosmetic active that provides a broad spectrum of benefits to the skin. Considering the chronic skin exposure to pollution in urban areas, we sought to determine if SIG-1273 could provide additional protection against skin aging by inhibiting pollutant-induced cytotoxicity and inflammation.

OBJECTIVE

Determine if SIG-1273 possesses antipollution properties in vitro and evaluate the potential anti-aging benefits of Age IQ™ Night Cream clinically in human subjects.

METHODS

In vitro studies utilizing normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs), were co-treated with urban dust (SRM 1649b) and SIG-1273 (toxicity protection measured by MTS assay). A water-soluble fraction of urban dust (UD-WS) induces pro-inflammatory cytokine release (IL-8) from NHEKs (measured via ELISA). An 8-week, 37-subject clinical trial was performed with 0.05% SIG-1273 formulated in Age IQ™ Night Cream and applied topically to assess its potential to reduce the appearance of aging.

RESULTS

In vitro studies using NHEKs demonstrate SIG-1273 protects against urban dust-induced cell toxicity, reducing cell death by 66% and concentration dependently inhibits UD-WS-induced IL-8 production (IC₅₀  = 20 nmol/L), outperforming niacinamide, ascorbic acid, and α-tocopherol, commonly used actives in antipollution skin-care products. Clinical assessment of Age IQ™ Night Cream shows it is effective in improving the appearance of facial skin aging including fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin clarity/brightness, and firmness/elasticity.

CONCLUSIONS

SIG-1273, is demonstrated here for the first time to possess antipollution properties. Included as a key active ingredient in Age IQ™ Night Cream, this novel topical formulation provides benefits to individuals with aging skin.

SIG1459: A novel phytyl-cysteine derived TLR2 modulator with in vitro and clinical anti-acne activity

Cutibacterium (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) is a major contributor to the pathogenesis of acne. C. acnes initiates an innate immune response in keratinocytes via recognition and activation of toll-like receptor-2 (TLR2), a key step in comedogenesis. Tetramethyl-hexadecenyl-cysteine-formylprolinate (SIG1459), a novel anti-acne isoprenylcysteine (IPC) small molecule, is shown in this study to have direct antibacterial activity and inhibit TLR2 inflammatory signalling. In vitro antibacterial activity of SIG1459 against C. acnes was established demonstrating minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC = 8.5 μmol\L), minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC = 16.1 μmol\L) and minimal biofilm eradication concentration (MBEC = 12.5 μmol\L). To assess SIG1459's anti-inflammatory activity, human keratinocytes were exposed to C. acnes and different TLR2 ligands (peptidoglycan, FSL-1, Pam3CSK4) that induce pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8 and IL-1α production. Results demonstrate SIG1459 inhibits TLR2-induced IL-8 release from TLR2/TLR2 (IC₅₀  = 0.086 μmol\L), TLR2/6 (IC₅₀  = 0.209 μmol\L) and IL-1α from TLR2/TLR2 (IC₅₀  = 0.050 μmol\L). To assess the safety and in vivo anti-acne activity of SIG1459, a vehicle controlled clinical study was conducted applying 1% SIG1459 topically (n = 35 subjects) in a head-to-head comparison against 3% BPO (n = 15 subjects). Utilizing the Investigator Global Assessment scale for acne as primary endpoint, results demonstrate 1% SIG1459 significantly outperformed 3% BPO over 8 weeks, resulting in 79% improvement as compared to 56% for BPO. Additionally, 1% SIG1459 was well tolerated. Thus, SIG1459 and phytyl IPC compounds represent a novel anti-acne technology that provides a safe dual modulating benefit by killing C. acnes and reducing the inflammation it triggers via TLR2 signalling.

N-Acetylglutaminoyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SIG-1191): an anti-inflammatory molecule that increases the expression of the aquaglyceroporin, aquaporin-3, in human keratinocytes

Isoprenylcysteine (IPC) small molecules were discovered as signal transduction modulating compounds ~25 years ago. More recently, IPC molecules have demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties in a variety of dermal cells as well as antimicrobial activity, representing a novel class of compounds to ameliorate skin conditions and disease. Here, we demonstrate a new IPC compound, N-acetylglutaminoyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SIG-1191), which inhibits UVB-induced inflammation blocking pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) production. To investigate further the previously reported hydrating potential of IPC compounds, SIG-1191 was tested for its ability to modulate aquaporin expression. Specifically, aquaporin 3 (AQP3) the most abundant aquaporin found in skin has been reported to play a key role in skin hydration, elasticity and barrier repair. Results show here for the first time that SIG-1191 increases AQP3 expression in both cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes as well as when applied topically in a three-dimensional (3D) reconstructed human skin equivalent. Additionally, SIG-1191 dose dependently increased AQP3 protein levels, as determined by specific antibody staining, in the epidermis of the 3D skin equivalents. To begin to elucidate which signaling pathways SIG-1191 may be modulating to increase AQP3 levels, we used several pharmacological pathway inhibitors and determined that AQP3 expression is mediated by the Mitogen-activated protein kinase/Extracellular signal-regulated kinase kinase (MEK) pathway. Altogether, these data suggest SIG-1191 represents a new IPC derivative with anti-inflammatory activity that may also promote increased skin hydration based on its ability to increase AQP3 levels.

The role of topical dermocosmetics in acne vulgaris

Acne is a common chronic inflammatory disease and treatment modalities based on acne severity are well established. The role of dermocosmetics in dermatology, and in particular acne, is becoming more important as more research elucidates the mechanisms of action of products in the pathogenesis of acne. Dermocosmetics have the potential to be used as monotherapy or in combination with medical treatment. Therefore, it has become important for dermatologists to understand dermocosmetics to effectively and appropriately advise patients on their use. The objective of this review was to provide new insights into the role of traditional and novel ingredients in dermocosmetics for the treatment of acne, based on the authors' objective assessment of the published literature. The type of products discussed include: those which have a sebostatic effect, such as topical antioxidants and niacinamide; agents targeting abnormal keratinization, such as salicylic acid, lipo-hydroxy acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, retinol-based products and linoleic acid; agents targeting Propionibacterium acnes, such as lauric acid; and anti-inflammatory agents such as nicotinamide, alpha-linolenic acid and zinc salts. Despite the scientific advances in understanding these cosmetic ingredients, there still remains a lack of rigorous controlled studies in this area.

In vitro and clinical evaluation of SIG1273: a cosmetic functional ingredient with a broad spectrum of anti-aging and antioxidant activities

BACKGROUND

Isoprenylcysteine (IPC) small molecules were identified as a new class of anti-inflammatory compounds over 20 years ago. Since then, they have been developed as novel cosmetic functional ingredients (CFI) and topical drug candidates. SIG1273 is a second generation CFI that has previously been shown to provide a broad spectrum of benefits for the skin through its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether SIG1273 possesses anti-aging properties in vitro and evaluate the tolerability and activity of SIG1273 when applied topically to human subjects.

METHODS

To model photoaging in vitro, human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were exposed in culture to UVA to induce collagenase (MMP-1) production. An in vitro wound-healing model was based on the activation of HDF migration into cell-free tissue culture surface. Hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress was performed using HDFs to measure intracellular ROS activity. Radical scavenging capacity was determined using a colorimetric antioxidant assay kit (ABTS method). Lastly, a 4-week, 29-subject study was performed in which SIG1273 was applied topically as a cream to assess its tolerance and activity in reducing the appearance of aging.

RESULTS

In vitro studies demonstrate SIG1273 inhibits UVA-induced MMP-1 production, hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress and promotes wound healing. Moreover, SIG1273 was shown to be a radical scavenging antioxidant. Clinical assessment of SIG1273 cream (0.25%) showed it was well tolerated with significant improvement in the appearance of fine lines, coarse wrinkles, radiance/luminosity, pore size, texture/smoothness, hydration and increased firmness.

CONCLUSIONS

SIG1273 represents a novel CFI with antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory properties that when applied topically is well tolerated and provides benefits to individuals with aging skin.

Current and future evidence-based acne treatment: a review

INTRODUCTION

Current acne treatment guidelines, as well as, treatment efficacy, safety, tolerability and patient preferences must all be considered in determining appropriate treatment regimes. Literature can assist physicians' evidence-based recommendations according to these factors.

AREAS COVERED

To determine the current and future direction of pharmacotherapy for treatment of acne, a PubMed search was conducted to identify all clinical trials involving the treatment of acne from 2009 to 2012. A total of 65 publications met inclusion criteria and were reviewed. Literature was heavily focused on the efficacy and tolerability of topical combination therapies and supported their use compared with monotherapy. A few studies on topical antiandrogens and antioxidants showed an alternative approach to targeting acne. Studies on oral monotherapy provided some evidence for the use of pulsed azithromycin for acne in adolescents. Literature also supports the use of low-dose isotretinoin for moderate acne, which was comparable in efficacy to high-dose regimes and better tolerated.

EXPERT OPINION

Combination acne therapy, whether it be combination topical therapy or combination oral and topical therapy, is well supported by recent studies. Given the multifactorial pathogenesis of acne and the hurdles of adherence to treatment, we anticipate greater development of and reliance on combination acne products in the future.