Hypo-collagenesis in photoaged skin predicts response to anti-aging cosmeceuticals

Vitamin C and scar strength: analysis of a historical trial and implications for collagen-related pathologies

A double-blind controlled trial initiated in 1944 has led to the common narrative that a 10-mg daily vitamin C intake is adequate to prevent and treat impaired wound healing, and by inference, other collagen-related diseases such as heart disease or stroke. The WHO relies on this narrative to set the recommended nutrient intake for vitamin C. This narrative, however, is based on what is known as the eyeball method of data assessment. The 1944 trial published individual participant data on scar strength providing an opportunity to statistically probe the validity of the 10-mg narrative, something which has not yet been done. The findings show that a vitamin C intake that averages to 10 mg/d over a mean follow-up of 11.5 mo was associated with a 42% weakened scar strength when compared with 80 mg vitamin C intake/d (P < 0.001). The observed dose-response curve between scar strength and vitamin C intake suggests that the daily vitamin C intake needed to prevent collagen-related pathologies is in the range recommended by the National Academy of Medicine and the European Food Safety Authority (75 to 110 mg/d), not the WHO recommendation (45 mg/d). The findings also show that a vitamin C intake that averages to 65 mg/d over a mean follow-up of 6.5 mo failed to restore the normal wound-healing capacity of vitamin C-depleted tissues; such tissues had a 49% weaker scar strength when compared with nondepleted tissues (P < 0.05). Thus, average daily vitamin C intakes ∼50% higher than the WHO recommends may fail to treat existing collagen-related pathologies. It is concluded that the prior lack of statistical analyses of a landmark trial may have led to a misleading narrative on the vitamin C needs for the prevention and treatment of collagen-related pathologies.

Two superior antioxidants: Ferulic acid and ascorbic acid in reducing signs of photoaging-A split-face comparative study

The assessment of the signs of photoaging in mexametric (melanin and erythema index), corneometric (hydration level), and cutometric (elasticity) examination after the treatment with ascorbic acid and ferulic acid. This study was conducted in a group of 20 women aged 39-61 (mean age 54), with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III. The study included a series of eight treatments performed once a week. Two layers of peeling, based on 14% ferulic acid (left half of the face) and 12% l-ascorbic acid serum (right half of the face) were applied. To determine skin parameters: moisture, elasticity, melanin level, and erythema intensity, the Multi Probe Adapter Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) were used. Additionally, before and after the series of treatments, photographs were taken with the standardized photographic system Fotomedicus (Elfo®). The results of mexametric measurement for melanin level and erythema intensity were statistically significant (p < 0.0001) for both acids. Slightly greater lightening of the skin was demonstrated for ascorbic acid. The results of corneometric measurement of hydration level for ferulic acid and ascorbic acid were both statistically significant (p < 0.0001). First beneficial changes in improved elasticity could be observed as early as after 8 weeks but the increase in flexibility grew with time (after 12 weeks). These changes affected both acids and all measurement points. The changes in parameters were highly statistically significant (p < 0.0001). Based on the conducted research, it is not possible to state which of the tested acids is more effective in reducing the symptoms of photoaging. Both acids (ascorbic and ferulic), which have a high antioxidant potential, affect the measurable parameters of the skin: pigmentation (melanin index), erythema (erythema index), skin hydration, and elasticity.

The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health

The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against insults from the environment, and its unique structure reflects this. The skin is composed of two layers: the epidermal outer layer is highly cellular and provides the barrier function, and the inner dermal layer ensures strength and elasticity and gives nutritional support to the epidermis. Normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage. This knowledge is often used as a rationale for the addition of vitamin C to topical applications, but the efficacy of such treatment, as opposed to optimising dietary vitamin C intake, is poorly understood. This review discusses the potential roles for vitamin C in skin health and summarises the in vitro and in vivo research to date. We compare the efficacy of nutritional intake of vitamin C versus topical application, identify the areas where lack of evidence limits our understanding of the potential benefits of vitamin C on skin health, and suggest which skin properties are most likely to benefit from improved nutritional vitamin C intake.

Current application of phytocompound-based nanocosmeceuticals for beauty and skin therapy

Phytocompounds have been used in cosmeceuticals for decades and have shown potential for beauty applications, including sunscreen, moisturizing and antiaging, and skin-based therapy. The major concerns in the usage of phyto-based cosmeceuticals are lower penetration and high compound instability of various cosmetic products for sustained and enhanced compound delivery to the beauty-based skin therapy. To overcome these disadvantages, nanosized delivery technologies are currently in use for sustained and enhanced delivery of phyto-derived bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical sectors and products. Nanosizing of phytocompounds enhances the aseptic feel in various cosmeceutical products with sustained delivery and enhanced skin protecting activities. Solid lipid nanoparticles, transfersomes, ethosomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, fullerenes, and carbon nanotubes are some of the emerging nanotechnologies currently in use for their enhanced delivery of phytocompounds in skin care. Aloe vera, curcumin, resveratrol, quercetin, vitamins C and E, genistein, and green tea catechins were successfully nanosized using various delivery technologies and incorporated in various gels, lotions, and creams for skin, lip, and hair care for their sustained effects. However, certain delivery agents such as carbon nanotubes need to be studied for their roles in toxicity. This review broadly focuses on the usage of phytocompounds in various cosmeceutical products, nanodelivery technologies used in the delivery of phytocompounds to various cosmeceuticals, and various nanosized phytocompounds used in the development of novel nanocosmeceuticals to enhance skin-based therapy.

Transdermal Delivery of Functional Collagen Via Polyvinylpyrrolidone Microneedles

Collagen makes up a large proportion of the human body, particularly the skin. As the body ages, collagen content decreases, resulting in wrinkled skin and decreased wound healing capabilities. This paper presents a method of delivering type I collagen into porcine and human skin utilizing a polyvinylpyrrolidone microneedle delivery system. The microneedle patches were made with concentrations of 1, 2, 4, and 8% type I collagen (w/w). Microneedle structures and the distribution of collagen were characterized using scanning electron microscopy and confocal microscopy. Patches were then applied on the porcine and human skin, and their effectiveness was examined using fluorescence microscopy. The results illustrate that this microneedle delivery system is effective in delivering collagen I into the epidermis and dermis of porcine and human skin. Since the technique presented in this paper is quick, safe, effective and easy, it can be considered as a new collagen delivery method for cosmetic and therapeutic applications.

Cosmeceuticals for children: should you care?

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

Cosmeceuticals are substances that exert physiologic changes to the skin for aesthetic purposes and are popular alternatives to invasive cosmetic procedures for antiaging. Cosmeceuticals are being used on children; yet studies of cosmeceuticals in the pediatric population are limited.

RECENT FINDINGS

Cosmeceuticals remain an unrecognized category by the US Food and Drug Administration, and therefore stringent regulatory pathways do not exist to guide research and marketing. To date, no safety and efficacy study exists on cosmeceutical use in pediatric patients. Increasing knowledge of the mechanisms underlying intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, including reactive oxygen species formation, effects of declining hormones, and ultraviolet radiation, forms the scientific basis for common cosmeceuticals such as retinoids, botanicals such as soy isoflavones, and even moisturizers and sunscreen. Virtually all studies on cosmeceuticals have been performed in women with varying degrees of skin aging. The cosmeceuticals most likely to be used by younger children are moisturizers and sunscreens. As the popularity and availability of other antiaging cosmeceuticals grow, practitioners will encounter more and more beauty-conscious teenagers using these products for preventive rather than restorative purposes.

SUMMARY

Pediatricians should be familiar with the use of common cosmeceuticals used in children, especially the use of broad-spectrum sunscreen. In the future, more children will be exposed to cosmeceuticals and may experience side effects such as contact dermatitis and skin irritation.