Integrating LC-MS and HS-GC-MS for the metabolite characterization of the Chinese medicinal plant Platostoma palustre under different processing methods

Platostoma palustre (or Mesona chinensis Benth) is an important medicinal and edible plant in China and Southeast Asian countries. To study the effects of different processing methods on the quality, nutrition, and flavor of P. palustre, we adopted the LC-MS and HS-GC-MS to compare the influences of tedding (S), sweating (M), and drying (H) on the metabolites and volatile substances of P. palustre. Biochemical determinations revealed that the M treatment could promote the accumulation of the contents of total sugar, soluble sugar, and total pectin compared with the H and S treatments but decrease the total flavonoid contents. LC-MS and HS-GC-MS uncovered 98 differential metabolites and 27 differential volatile substances among the three treatments, respectively. Overall, the M treatment facilitated the stabilization and improvement of the quality of polysaccharides and volatile substances, while the H treatment could promote the level of amino acids in P. palustre. The current study provided a theoretical reference for establishing standardized processing methods and sustaining the quality stability of P. palustre in future.

Evaluating the Application Potential of a Recombinant Ganoderma Protein as Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetics

The aim of this study was to evaluate the application potential of a recombinant fungal immunomodulatory protein from Ganoderma lucidum (rFIP-glu). First, a recombinant plasmid pPIC9K::FIP-glu-His was transferred into Pichia pastoris for the production of protein. The protein was then to assess its free radical scavenging abilities and the effect on the viability of both human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and mouse B16-F10 melanoma cells (B16 cells) in vitro, followed by the effect on the melanin synthesis of B16 cells. The results of SDS-PAGE and western blot showed that rFIP-glu was successfully expressed. Furtherly, a bioactivity assay in vitro indicated that the scavenging rate of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals reached 84.5% at 6.0 mg/mL (p ≤ 0.0001) of rFIP-glu, showing strong antioxidant activity. Subsequently, a safety evaluation demonstrated that rFIP-glu promoted the proliferation of HaCaT cells, with the cell viability reaching 124.3% at 48 μg/mL (p ≤ 0.01), regarding the cell viability of B16 cells after exposure to rFIP-glu (48 μg/mL) significantly inhibited, to 80.7% (p ≤ 0.01). Besides, rFIP-glu inhibited the melanin synthesis of B16 cells in a dose-dependent manner from 100–1000 μg/mL, and rFIP-glu at 500 μg/mL (p ≤ 0.01) exhibited the highest intracellular melanin amount reduction of 16.8%. Furthermore, a mechanism analysis showed that rFIP-glu inhibited tyrosinase (TYR) activity by up-regulating the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and down-regulating the gene expression of TYR and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP-1), thus inhibiting melanin synthesis. The data implied that rFIP-glu had significant antioxidant activity and whitening potency. It should be used as raw materials for cosmeceutical applications.

Treatment of melasma: a review of less commonly used antioxidants

Melasma, a common cause for seeking dermatologic care, is a chronic condition of skin hyperpigmentation. With a poorly understood pathogenesis, and no universal cure, melasma is a challenge for many dermatologists. For decades, there has been investigation into the role of oxidative stress in melasma. In this literature review, we introduce the role of oxidative stress in melasma and discuss the function of various topical and oral antioxidant therapies for patients suffering from melasma. Numerous studies have shown efficacy of various antioxidant therapies for treatment of hyperpigmentation, and in this review, we focus primarily on those with less widespread use. Vitamin E, niacinamide, polypodium leucotomos, pycnogenol, grape seed extract, amino fruit acids, phytic acid, zinc, silymarin, Korean red ginseng powder, plant extracts, and parsley all have well-demonstrated evidence of antioxidant properties, and these substances have been studied in the context of skin hyperpigmentation. Although there is conflicting evidence of their therapeutic efficacy, the use of these naturally occurring substances is promising for patients and medical providers seeking alternative therapeutic options.

Formulation and Characterization of a 3D-Printed Cryptotanshinone-Loaded Niosomal Hydrogel for Topical Therapy of Acne

Cryptotanshinone (CPT) is an efficacious acne treatment, while niosomal hydrogel is a known effective topical drug delivery system that produces a minimal amount of irritation. Three-dimensional (3D) printing technologies have the potential to improve the field of personalized acne treatment. Therefore, this study endeavored to develop a 3D-printed niosomal hydrogel (3DP-NH) containing CPT as a topical delivery system for acne therapy. Specifically, CPT-loaded niosomes were prepared using a reverse phase evaporation method, and the formulation was optimized using a response surface methodology. In vitro characterization showed that optimized CPT-loaded niosomes were below 150 nm in size with an entrapment efficiency of between 67 and 71%. The CPT-loaded niosomes were added in a dropwise manner into the hydrogel to formulate CPT-loaded niosomal hydrogel (CPT-NH), which was then printed as 3DP-CPT-NH with specific drug dose, shape, and size using an extrusion-based 3D printer. The in vitro release behavior of 3DP-CPT-NH was found to follow the Korsmeyer-Peppas model. Permeation and deposition experiments showed significantly higher rates of transdermal flux, Q₂₄, and CPT deposition (p < 0.05) compared with 3D-printed CPT-loaded conventional hydrogel (3DP-CPT-CH), which did not contain niosomes. In vivo anti-acne activity evaluated through an acne rat model revealed that 3DP-CPT-NH exhibited a greater anti-acne effect with no skin irritation. Enhanced skin hydration, wide inter-corneocyte gaps in the stratum corneum and a disturbed lipid arrangement may contribute towards the enhanced penetration properties of CPT. Collectively, this study demonstrated that 3DP-CPT-NH is a promising topical drug delivery system for personalized acne treatments.

Orally administered mixed carotenoids protect human skin against ultraviolet A-induced skin pigmentation: A double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Photoprotection of human skin is determined as the capacity of sunscreens to prevent ultraviolet (UV) B radiation-induced erythema and UVA radiation-induced pigmentation. It is unequivocal that, in addition to sunscreens, oral supplementation with carotenoids can protect human skin against UVB radiation-induced erythema. It is not known if this is also the case for UVA radiation-induced pigmentation.

OBJECTIVE

To clinically evaluate the photoprotective effects of daily supplementation with carotenoids against UVA radiation-induced pigmentation.

METHODS

In this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 60 subjects (Fitzpatrick types II-IV) were randomized to receive Nutrilite™ Multi Carotene supplement or placebo for 12 weeks. UVB-induced minimal erythemal dose (MED), UVA-induced minimal persistent pigmentation dose (MPPD) and skin carotenoid levels were measured at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks of intervention. Skin color was evaluated by expert clinical graders and by colorimetry. Carotenoid levels in the skin were measured by the Biozoom^® device.

RESULTS

In the intervention group, a significant increase in comparison with the placebo group was observed in (a) skin carotenoid levels, (b) UVB-induced MED, and (c) UVA-induced MPPD values obtained by colorimetry.

CONCLUSION

Daily supplementation with carotenoids protects human skin against both UVB-induced erythema and UVA-induced pigmentation.

Novel Approach for Transdermal Delivery of Rifampicin to Induce Synergistic Antimycobacterial Effects Against Cutaneous and Systemic Tuberculosis Using a Cationic Nanoemulsion Gel

Purpose

This study demonstrated improved transdermal delivery of rifampicin-loaded cationic nanoemulsion gel to treat systemic and cutaneous tuberculosis using capmul, labrasol, and acconon, which exert anti-Mycobacterium activities. This approach enhanced drug permeation across the skin, increased therapeutic efficacy, and reduced dose-related side effects.

Methods

Design Expert^® was used to optimize formulations (S_mix ratio and capmul as independent factors), which were prepared using a slow spontaneous titration method. The optimized nanoemulsion was incorporated into carbopol gel to allow for topical application and comparative assessments. Nanoemulsions and gels were evaluated for size, size distribution, shape, zeta potential, percent spread, viscosity, in vitro hemolysis, in vitro release, and ex vivo skin permeation and deposition. A mechanistic evaluation was performed using scanning electron microscopy. Furthermore, in vivo pharmacokinetic and irritation studies were performed.

Results

The optimized cationic nanoemulsion (OCNE-1) was characterized by small particle size (≤100 nm), had optimal viscosity, percent spread, zeta potential, and percent drug release, and was hemocompatible. The OCNE-1T gel exhibited higher permeation flux (51.32 ± 0.5 µg/cm² hr), permeation coefficient (2.566 ± 0.08 cm/hr), drug deposition (994.404 µg/cm²), and enhancement ratio (7.16) than those of the OCNE-1 nanoemulsion or drug solution. Scanning electron microscopy was used to characterize the mechanism of enhanced permeation. An In vivo study showed that the C_max and area under the curve following transdermal application were 4.34- and 4.74-fold higher than those following oral administration.

Conclusion

Transdermal delivery of rifampicin could be a promising alternative to conventional approaches to treat systemic and local tuberculosis, and other bacterial infections.

An Open-Label Single-Arm, Monocentric Study Assessing the Efficacy and Safety of Natural Pterostilbene (Pterocarpus marsupium) for Skin Brightening and Antiaging Effects

BACKGROUND

Both intrinsic and environmental factors play a role in premature ageing of the skin. Natural extracts have been extensively used to reduce the signs of ageing in recent years. Pterostilbene is a natural analog of resveratrol with therapeutic properties against numerous diseases mainly due to its ability to reduce reactive oxygen species.

METHODS

We studied the anti-aging and skin brightening effect of a 0.4% formulation of natural pterostilbene in healthy volunteers (N=38) in an open-label, single-arm, monocentric study for 8 weeks. The melanogenesis inhibitory, anti-tyrosinase and anti-collagenase and anti-elastase properties of pterostilbene were evaluated in vitro.

RESULTS

Natural pterostilbene showed significant inhibition of melanogenesis in vitro. Pterostilbene cream (0.4%) was highly effective in reducing markers of aging and induces even skin tone. The product was effective in reducing wrinkles and fine lines, improved skin hydration elasticity and showed no adverse effects.

CONCLUSION

Our results suggest that natural pterostilbene is a safe and effective ingredient for use in cosmetic preparation to reduce the markers of skin ageing and brighten the skin tone.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Clinical Trial Registration India Identifier CTRI/2019/01/017160 [Registered on 18/01/2019].

Melochia corchorifolia extract inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells via activation of the ERK signaling

BACKGROUND

Numerous researches have focused on discovering available inhibitors of melanogenesis from natural medicinal plants with stable efficacy and safety to resolve cutaneous hyperpigmentary problems. Melochia corchorifolia Linn. (MC) has been used as folk medicine to treat various diseases. However, the effect of MC on melanogenesis remains unknown.

AIM

In this study, we investigated the effect of MC extract on melanogenesis and its underlying mechanisms in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells.

METHODS

B16F10 cells were treated with MC extract, and then, cell viability, melanin content, and tyrosinase activity were analyzed. The mRNA and protein expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) were evaluated using real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR) and Western blotting, respectively. Phosphorylated or total protein levels in MC extract-induced signaling pathways were analyzed by Western blotting.

RESULTS

Treatment of B16F10 cells with MC extract inhibited melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner with no cytotoxicity. Protein and mRNA expressions of tyrosinase and MITF were also significantly decreased by MC extract treatment. In addition, phosphorylated level of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) was obviously increased by MC extract, but AKT pathway was not activated. Inhibited ERK phosphorylation by pretreatment with a selective ERK inhibitor PD98059 significantly reversed the decreased melanin content induced by treatment with MC extract in B16F10 cells.

CONCLUSION

MC extract inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells through suppression of MITF-tyrosinase signaling pathway by ERK activation.

Ethosomal Gel for Improving Transdermal Delivery of Thymosin β-4

Purpose

Thymosin β-4(Tβ-4) is a macromolecular protein drug with potential for drug development in wound repair but is limited by the shortcomings of macromolecular protein, such as large volumes, poor membrane permeability, and unstable physicochemical characteristics. Ethosomes could enhance cell membrane fluidity and reduce epidermal membrane density to make macromolecular drugs through the stratum corneum into the deeper layers of the skin easily. Herein, we developed and characterized a novel transdermal delivery vehicle to load macromolecular protein peptides and use Tβ-4 as a model drug wrapped into ethosomes.

Methods

We used the orthogonal method to optimize the formulation of the ethosome preparation prepared by the ethonal infusion method. Ethosomal gels were characterized by using different analytical methods. Transdermal release rate in vitro have been demonstrated in Franz diffusion cells and the efficacy of drug-loaded nanocarriers in vivo was investigated in a mouse model.

Results

Optimized Tβ-4 ethosomal gels have good physicochemical properties. The drug amounts of the cumulative release in the ethosomal gel within 5 hours were 1.67 times that of the T-β4 gel in vitro release study, and the wound healing time of ethosomal gel group was only half of the T-β4 gel group in vivo pharmacokinetic study. Compared with the free drug group, the ethosome preparation not only promotes the percutaneous absorption process of the macromolecular protein drugs but also shortened wound recovery time.

Conclusion

Hence, we provide a possible good design for ethosomal gel system that can load macromolecular protein peptide drugs to achieve transdermal drug administration, promoting the percutaneous absorption of the drug and improving the effect.

Chrysanthemum Morifolium Extract And Ascorbic Acid-2-Glucoside (AA2G) Blend Inhibits UVA-Induced Delayed Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimer (CPD) Production In Melanocytes

Background

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) induces DNA damages in skin via direct absorption of UVB or indirectly by photosensitization mediated through UVA. Recent findings have revealed that UVA induces cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) generation via chemiexcitation in melanocytes hours after the exposure. This UVA-induced delayed CPD (dark CPD) constitutes the majority of CPD in melanocytes. These findings indicate that sun light can damage the skin hours after the exposure, suggesting the need for skin care products post sun exposure. The main objective of this study was to investigate whether a blend of Chrysanthemum Morifolium flower extract (Chrys) and vitamin C derivative, Ascorbic Acid-2-Glucoside (AA2G), can provide protective effects against reactive oxygen species, melanin formation and UVA-induced dark CPD.

Methods

Intracellular ROS levels were measured in epidermal keratinocytes using DHR123 dye. Melanogenesis inhibition efficacy was determined using B16 cells. As for the dark CPD measurement, Melan-a cells were treated with or without actives for 6 days, then irradiated with UVA at various doses. Cells were exposed with anti-CPD mAb followed by secondary Ab. CPD levels were determined by measuring fluorescent intensity using a high content imaging analysis.

Results

Chrys, AA2G and their blend at various concentrations demonstrated ROS scavenging activity. Though Chrys alone did not show significant melanogenesis inhibition in B16 assay, the blend of Chrys with AA2G demonstrated additive effects in comparison with AA2G alone. The blend of AA2G and Chrys at various concentrations exhibited enhanced efficacy for inhibiting dark CPD compared to AA2G alone.

Conclusion

The results from this study indicate that the use of natural antioxidant, Chrys in combination with AA2G, provides protection against UVA-induced delayed CPD formation by enhancing ROS scavenging activity and melanogenesis inhibition. These findings could potentially be applied for formulating post-sun exposure skin care products, possibly extending to evening-after care products.

Poly(γ-Glutamic Acid)/Chitosan Hydrogel Nanoparticles For Effective Preservation And Delivery Of Fermented Herbal Extract For Enlarging Hair Bulb And Enhancing Hair Growth

Introduction

Hair growth-promoting herbal extract mixtures (4HGF) exhibits significant anti-inflammatory activities relevant to promoting hair growth; however, its efficacy in patients with hair loss has been limited majorly due to its low penetration ability into hair follicles. Herein, we prepared hydrogels via dropwise addition of poly(γ-glutamic acid) (PGA) solution containing 4HGF into chitosan (CS) solution, resulting in quick formation of ~400 nm-sized hydrogel particles through electrostatic interaction-derived ionic gelation with over 50% encapsulation efficiency of 4HGF (PGA-4HGF).

Methods

The size and morphology of PGA-4HGF were characterized by TEM, SEM, and dynamic light scattering analyses. Encapsulation efficiency and loading capacity of 4HGF within PGA-4HGF, as well as in vitro release profiles were determined by simply measuring the characteristic absorbance of 4HGF. Penetrating efficiency of PGA-4HGF was evaluated by tracking the respective fluorescence through model porcine skin with confocal laser microscope system. By treating PGA-4HGF on telogenic mice and dermal papilla cells (DPCs), we evaluated the size of hair bulbs in mice, as well as morphological changes in DPCs.

Results

Negligible and sustained release of entrapped 4HGF from the hydrogel nanoparticles were observed under acidic and physiological pH conditions, respectively, which is quite advantageous to control their release and prolong their hair growth-promoting effect. The hydrogel nanoparticles were penetrable through the porcine skin after incubation with or without shaking. After treating telogenic mice and DPCs with PGA-4HGF, we detected enlargement of hair bulbs and remarkable shape changes, respectively, thereby showing its potential in induction of hair growth.

Conclusion

These results suggest that the hydrogel nanoparticle formulation developed in this study can be employed as a potential approach for the preservation of hair growth-promoting compounds, their delivery of into hair follicles, and enhancing hair growth.

Trends in Tanning Bed Use, Motivation, and Risk Awareness in Germany: Findings from Four Waves of the National Cancer Aid Monitoring (NCAM)

Indoor tanning is an important risk factor for the development of melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancer. With our nationally representative monitoring, we aimed at describing tanning bed use, user characteristics, reasons for use, and risk awareness over time. In the framework of the National Cancer Aid Monitoring (NCAM), we collected representative data on 12,000 individuals aged 14 to 45 years in annual waves of n = 3,000 participants in Germany between 2015 and 2018. We used descriptive statistics and chi²-tests to uncover group differences. To compare data from the different waves, we calculated confidence intervals. The use of tanning beds decreased from 2015 (11.0%, 95%-CI: 9.9%–12.1%) to 2018 (8.8%, 95%-CI: 7.8%–9.8%). However, this decrease did not affect all subgroups. For instance, there was an (non-significant) increase in minors and the prevalence remained stable for individuals with immigrant background and males. Attractiveness was an important reason for tanning bed use in each wave. Over time, there was an increase in medical-related reasons for use. Furthermore, monitoring showed a decrease in risk awareness regarding tanning bed use and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. While it is a positive development that the overall use of tanning beds in Germany has decreased over time, the increasing use by minors despite the legal ban is alarming. Due to the declining risk awareness it is necessary to implement prevention and education campaigns specifically targeted at this group.

Efficiency of Skin Whitening Cream Containing Etlingera elatior Flower and Leaf Extracts in Volunteers

Our previous research demonstrated that Etlingera elatior possesses whitening and anti-aging properties and also contains bioactive ingredients for cosmeceuticals. Therefore, this research work aimed to evaluate the efficiency of whitening cream containing both the flower and leaf extracts of E. elatior in human volunteers and their degree of skin irritation. Both the flower and leaf extracts were formulated as a cosmetic called “FL1 cream”, which was assessed for its physical properties and underwent an accelerated stability test. The FL1 cream was also evaluated for skin irritation and its skin whitening effect among 24 healthy volunteers who used it for four weeks. The FL1 cream demonstrated good physical stability under the various conditions for three months, along with six cycles of heating/cooling. The irritation analysis showed that irritation reactions were absent in all volunteers. The efficiency of FL1 cream in improving the appearance of skin whitening was demonstrated by a significant (p < 0.05) and continuous decrease in melanin content compared with the initial value. Additionally, the L* value was significantly and continuously increased after application of the FL1 cream. The highest melanin reduction was 6.67%. The FL1 cream containing E. elatior extracts can be used as a whitening cream in cosmetics.

Use of formulations for sensitive skin improves the visible signs of aging, including wrinkle size and elasticity

Background: Sensitive skin affects an increasingly large proportion of the population and is less tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of cosmetics. This study investigates the antiaging effects of a skin care system developed for use on sensitive skin. Methods: A total of 30 healthy Caucasian females, aged 32-72, were enrolled in this double-blind randomized placebo-controlled split-face study. A routine consisting of twice daily topical applications of the test cleanser and test moisturizer or placebo or positive control products was followed for 28 days, with parameters measured at baseline and at 7-day intervals. Objective skin assessments for hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface topography, elasticity and safety assessment were conducted. Results: Wrinkle surface, length and depth significantly improved by 34.8±4.7% (P<0.001), 19.0±3.2% (P<0.05) and 24.3±3.5% (P<0.05), respectively, after 28 days of skin care treatment with the test cleanser and test moisturizer. R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity) and R7 (biological elasticity) significantly increased by 32.8±6.5% (P<0.001), 47.3±8.6% (P<0.001) and 50.6±5.1% (P<0.001), respectively, while R6 (viscoelastic portion) significantly decreased by 33.4±4.6% (P<0.001) after 28 days. Skin hydration was also found to increase significantly after 28 days by 42.2±8.5% (P<0.01), but there was no change in TEWL. No adverse events were reported. Conclusions: A novel skin care routine developed for use on sensitive skin significantly improves the signs of aging including hydration, wrinkle size and elasticity without significant adverse effects.