Anti-sebum efficacy of guava toner: A split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled study

The clinical efficacy of a new emulsion for acne and conspicuous facial pore amelioration

BACKGROUND

Oily skin is a common concern in the field of dermatology due to its association with excessive sebum production, acne, blackheads, and enlarged facial pores. Therefore, it is in great demand to develop effective cosmetics to manage oily skin.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the clinical efficacy of a novel emulsion containing niacinamide, lens esculenta seed extract, and white willow bark extract for oily skin.

METHODS

The efficacy of a novel emulsion was evaluated through a 56-day clinical trial. The clinical efficacy of the product to ameliorate acne, blackheads, and conspicuous facial pores was assessed on 30 subjects with oily skin by VISIA, PRIMOS, professional dermatologist evaluations, and subject self-assessment.

RESULTS

In the clinical trial, the participants showed high satisfaction with the emulsion's efficacy, reporting significant improvement in skin sebum secretion, acne, facial pores, and blackheads. The efficacy of the novel emulsion was further validated through VISIA and PRIMOS measurements, along with professional dermatologist evaluations.

CONCLUSION

Our results showed that the novel emulsion containing three active ingredients could effectively improve acne, blackheads, and conspicuous facial pores.

Recent insights into catechins-rich Assam tea extract for photoaging and senescent ageing

Tea (Camellia spp.) is an important medicinal herb. C. sinensis var. sinensis is the most studied tea variety due to its more preferred flavor than C. sinensis var. assamica (Assam tea), the less economic importance with more bitter variety. A bitter taste highlights its potential as a candidate source for tea catechins, the health beneficial actives applicable for ageing treatment. Nonetheless, indicative data for tea on UV-induced and senescent ageing remain unclarified. Assam tea extract (ATE) was prepared and standardized in terms of TPC, TFC and TTC. EGCG was HPLC quantified as the prime ATE catechin. In vitro antioxidant activity of ATE was exhibited with ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. ATE's cellular antioxidant activity was indicated in HDFs at a stronger degree than ascorbic acid. The photoaging protection of ATE was evidenced in a coculture of HaCaT cells and HDFs. ATE markedly suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 expressions. The proficiency of ATE targeting on senescent ageing was demonstrated in an ex vivo human skin model, where IL-6 and MMP-1 expressions were suppressed, whilst hyaluronic acid and collagen syntheses were promoted. ATE was chemically stabled as indicated by the catechin contents and color parameters following 6 months storage under conditions recommended for topical product. ATE enriched in catechins warrants its applicability as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent promising for the prevention and treatment for senescent ageing. The findings indicate the proficiency of ATE for innovative anti-ageing agent.

Cordyceps militaris polysaccharides: preparation and topical product application

BACKGROUND

Topical product derived from the fungus Cordyceps militaris was explored as a feasible method for an industrial practice.

RESULTS

The mycelium residue of C. militaris that was industrial biotechnological produced was extracted with water at different time conditions under ambient temperature, filtered and lyophilized. The extracts were all light to dark brown powder. The 24 h extraction was significantly (p < 0.01) highest in an extractive yield and total polysaccharides content (TPC) (43.33 ± 0.99% and 144.02 ± 2.06 mg glucose/g crude extract). This extract was proved to be stable following an accelerated stability test with the insignificant (p > 0.05) reduction of TPC (4.95 ± 2.23%). Topical product containing the extract were developed. Skin care preparation containing 0.2% extract was exhibited as the appropriated amount giving the stable cream. The developed C. militaris polysaccharide cream was confirmed safe and gained more than 70% of the overall preferences examined in 20 female volunteers.

CONCLUSIONS

Cordyceps militaris mycelium residue is a beneficial source for pharmaceutical products. The C. militaris polysaccharides extract was prepared and qualified in terms of active content and stability. The extract was shown to be compatible with the available cosmetic ingredients. The safe and preferred C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics was developed. Accordingly, C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics that meets all the quality characters which are stable, safe, usable and efficient.

Psidium guajava L.: From byproduct and use in traditional Mexican medicine to antimicrobial agent

Mexico is one of the largest guava producers in the world, so it has access to a huge amount of waste and byproducts obtained after the industrial processing of the fruit. This review discusses the potential recovery of this residue for its application as an antimicrobial agent, considering the phytochemical composition, the bioactivity reported in-vivo and in-vitro, and the toxicology of the plant. Nowadays there is a growing demand for more natural and safer products, so the use of guava extracts is an interesting initiative, especially due to its availability in the country, its wide variety of traditional uses, and its phytochemical profile. This review highlights the importance and potential antimicrobial use of this plant in today's world.

Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin

BACKGROUND

Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.

RESULTS

The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

Isolation and characterization of auronlignan derivatives with hepatoprotective and hypolipidemic activities from the fruits of Hippophae rhamnoides L

The fruit of Hippophae rhamnoides L. is not only used as delicious food with nutritional values, but also served as traditional Chinese medicine with multiple bioactivities. In order to find structurally interesting and bioactive isolates from the fruits of H. rhamnoides L., a bioassay-guided investigation was applied to seek the hepatoprotective and hypolipidemic ingredients in this study. As a result, three new (10 → 10'')-biauronlignans (1-3), three new 10-(4''-hydroxy-benzyl)-auronlignans (4-6), three new 10-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-auronlignans (7-9), and eleven known auronlignan derivatives (10-20) were isolated from the fruits of H. rhamnoides L. for the first time, and their structures were determined by extensive and comprehensive IR, UV, NMR, MS spectral analyses and compared with the reported references. Among them, compounds 1, 4, 7, 11, 15, and 19 showed moderate hepatoprotective activities against the damage in acetaminophen-induced HepG2 cells; compounds 2, 5, 8, and 12 exhibited moderate inhibition of pancreatic lipase activity, and decreased the moderately FFA-induced lipid accumulation in HepG2 liver cells. The plausible biogenetic pathway and preliminary structure-activity relationship of the selected compounds are scientifically summarized and discussed in this study.

In Vitro and In Vivo Regulation of SRD5A mRNA Expression of Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extract from Asparagus racemosus Willd. Root as Anti-Sebum and Pore-Minimizing Active Ingredients

Oily skin from overactive sebaceous glands affects self-confidence and personality. There is report of an association between steroid 5-alpha reductase gene (SRD5A) expression and facial sebum production. There is no study of the effect of Asparagus racemosus Willd. root extract on the regulation of SRD5A mRNA expression and anti-sebum efficacy. This study extracted A. racemosus using the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid technique with ethanol and investigated its biological compounds and activities. The A. racemosus root extract had a high content of polyphenolic compounds, including quercetin, naringenin, and p-coumaric acid, and DPPH scavenging activity comparable to that of the standard L-ascorbic acid. A. racemosus root extract showed not only a significant reduction in SRD5A1 and SRD5A2 mRNA expression by about 45.45% and 90.86%, respectively, but also a reduction in the in vivo anti-sebum efficacy in male volunteers, with significantly superior percentage changes in facial sebum production and a reduction in the percentages of pore area after 15 and 30 days of treatment. It can be concluded that A. racemosus root extract with a high content of polyphenol compounds, great antioxidant effects, promising downregulation of SRD5A1 and SRD5A2, and predominant facial sebum reduction and pore-minimizing efficacy could be a candidate for an anti-sebum and pore-minimizing active ingredient to serve in functional cosmetic applications.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Major Tropical and Subtropical Fruit By-Products for a Sustainable Revalorization

The increasing production of tropical fruits followed by their processing results in tons of waste, such as skins or seeds. However, these by-products have been reported to be rich in bioactive compounds (BACs) with excellent properties of interest in the cosmeceutical industry: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties. This review summarizes the tropical fruits most produced worldwide, their bioactive composition and the most important and studied therapeutic properties that their by-products can contribute to skin health, as well as the different approaches for obtaining these compounds using techniques by conventional (Soxhlet, liquid-liquid extraction or maceration) and non-conventional extractions (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) and two-phase aqueous system), followed by their identification by HPLC-MS or GC-MS analysis. Moreover, this work encompasses several studies that may prove the effects of seeds and skins from tropical fruits against oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, acne, aging or UV radiation. Therefore, the investigation of functional components present in tropical fruit by-products under a circular bioeconomy model could be of great interest for the cosmeceutical industry and a very promising option for obtaining new cosmeceutical formulations.

Thermoregulatory effects of guava leaf extract-menthol toner application for post-exercise use

CONTEXT

Psidium guajava L. (Myrtaceae) leaf contains a wide variety of bioactive compounds that contribute valuable effects on human well-being.

OBJECTIVE

This study investigates the influence of guava leaf extract-menthol toner on thermoregulation, including perspiration, skin temperature, and recovery heart rate.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This randomised, placebo-controlled clinical trial assessed the effects of the guava leaf extract-menthol toner and placebo with a 1-week washout period. Sixty-four participants were enrolled. The participants exercised on a treadmill until a 75% heart rate reserve was achieved for 5 min, followed by a 5 min post-exercise rest period. The skin temperature and heart rate were then measured before 5 mL of the testing product was sprayed to specific areas of the body, left it for 30 sec before wiped off. Post-exercise perspiration and skin temperatures were collected by sweat patches and measured by the Skin-thermometer ST500, respectively. A 20 min heart rate monitoring period started 10 min after the exercise and measured every 2 min intervals.

RESULTS

Use of the toner significantly reduced post-exercise perspiration to approximately half of the baseline and placebo use values (p < 0.05). Furthermore, relative heart rate changes showed no significant differences among the tests (p > 0.05). Skin temperature was also unaffected (p > 0.05).

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

Guava leaf extract-menthol toner reduced perspiration by astringent effects but did not influence heat dissipation and did not affect cardiovascular mechanism compared to the controls. Additional cleaning with guava leaf extract-menthol toner could offer better hygiene after a workout.

Ethnomedicinal uses, phytochemistry and dermatological effects of Hippophae rhamnoides L.: A review

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Hippophae rhamnoides L. (family- Elaeagnaceae, common name- Sea buckthorn) is a flowering shrub native to cold temperate regions of Eurasia. Berries, seeds, and leaves of the plant are widely used as a folk medicine for the treatment of hypertension, oedema, inflammation, tissue-regeneration, skin-grafts, burns/injury, wounds, and ulcers.

AIM OF THE REVIEW

This article reviews geographical distribution, botanical description, phytochemistry, ethnomedicinal uses, and dermatological activities including, cosmeceuticals of H. rhamnoides available in the market.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The data has been compiled employing the various search engines like Science Direct, Pub Med, Google, Google Scholar, EBSCO, SCOPUS, and SciVal.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

H. rhamnoides is primarily found in cold-temperate regions of Eurasia and was first located in China. Berries are the most prominent feature of the plant. Phytochemical studies reveal the presence of a wide variety of compounds like flavonoids, carotenoids, polyunsaturated fatty acids, minerals, vitamins, Omega 3, 6, 9 and rarest Omega 7 and about 190 bioactive compounds. The pharmacological studies demonstrated, sea buckthorn to exhibit antibacterial, anti-sebum, antifungal, anti-psoriasis, anti-atopic dermatitis and wound healing activities. Besides, it has also been included in various cosmeceuticals for its use in skin-eventone, smoothening, rejuvenation, removal of wrinkles, scars, and pigmentation, and also in hair related problems.

CONCLUSION

Pharmacological evaluation confirmed the ethnomedically claimed biological actions and other beneficial effects on the skin of H. rhamnoides using scientifically accepted protocols and controls, although some of the studies require more elaborative studies. Its full application in the dermatology may be attributed to the presence of a variety of flavonoids, vitamins, and unsaturated fatty acids. Great use of plant in the traditional system for dermatological aspect, demands further comprehensive phytochemical work based on its actual use by the traditional population. Demonstration of the plant in the traditional system, pharmacology, cosmeceuticals not only demands its further therapeutic studies but also warrants focus towards its cultivation and propagation across the globe.