The anti-sebum property of chitosan particles

Efficacy of anti-sebum moisturizing cream containing 2% l-carnitine and 5% epigallocatechin gallate in seborrhea: A randomized clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Seborrhea leads to facial greasiness and unpleasant feeling. People with seborrhea also have trouble with selecting moisturizers. l-Carnitine and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) are reported anti-sebum properties. However, neither efficacy comparison nor the combination effect of the two topical anti-sebum agents was studied. Moisturizing cream with these agents is supposed to provide skin with an optimal water-oil balance.

AIMS

To compare the efficacy of moisturizer containing 2% l-carnitine or 5% EGCG alone on sebum controlling, and the synergistic effect of these two agents.

METHODS

Three study creams were formulated by adding three kinds of anti-sebum agents which were 2% l-carnitine, 5% EGCG, and 2% l-carnitine plus 5% EGCG in moisturizing cream base of dimethicone and glycerin. A randomized clinical trial was conducted. Ninety subjects, divided into three groups, applied the cream for 4 weeks. Sebum level, skin capacitance, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated at Weeks 0, 1, 2, and 4. Life qualities and subjective outcomes were assessed before and after treatment.

RESULTS

The mean sebum reduction from baseline was statistically significant in all treatment groups (p < 0.01). The median time to oil control was longer in l-carnitine group. The combine group had significantly greater anti-sebum efficacy than l-carnitine group (p = 0.009). All three groups had significant improvement of other objective parameters and subjective outcomes.

CONCLUSIONS

The anti-sebum moisturizing cream exhibited beneficial effect on the sebum reduction with improve skin hydration in people with seborrhea and made users satisfied. The EGCG group and the combine group show the greater anti-sebum effect than the l-carnitine group.

Chitosan-Glycolic Acid Gel Modification of Chloride Ion Transport in Mammalian Skin: An In Vitro Study

Chitosan, a polyaminosaccharide with high medical and cosmetic potential, can be combined with the beneficial properties of glycolic acid to form a gel that not only moisturizes the skin, but also has a regenerative effect. Its involvement in the activation of biochemical processes may be associated with the activity of skin ion channels. Therefore, the aim of the research was to evaluate the immediate (15 s) and long-term (24 h) effect of chitosan-glycolic acid gel (CGG) on the transepithelial electric potential and the transepithelial electric resistance (R) of skin specimens tested in vitro. Stimulation during immediate and prolonged application of CGG to skin specimens resulted in a significant decrease in the measured minimal transepithelial electric potential (PDmin). The absence of any change in the R after the CGG application indicates that it does not affect the skin transmission, or cause distortion, microdamage or changes in ion permeability. However, the reduction in potential may be due to the increased transport of chloride ions, and thus water, from outside the cell into the cell interior. Increased secretion of chloride ions is achieved by stimulating the action of the CFTR (cystic fibrosis transmembrane conductance). It can be assumed that chitosan gently stimulates the secretion of chlorides, while maintaining a tendency to reduce the transport of sodium ions, without causing deformation or tissue damage.

Influence of moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid on facial skin lipidome among seborrhea participants

BACKGROUND

A better understanding of skin lipidomics and its alteration under treatment administration might offer therapeutic solutions for seborrhea.

AIMS

To quantitatively and qualitatively explore the lipid-modifying effect of the moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid (LDCS) in seborrhea participants with and without acne vulgaris (AV).

PATIENTS/METHODS

We conducted an open-label explorative study on 20 seborrhea participants (10 AV and 10 non-AV). All participants applied LDCS for 8 weeks with the addition of benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel and adapalene 0.1%/benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel in AV. Skin surface lipid (SSL) assessments were performed biweekly, using Sebumeter® and lipid-absorbent Sebutapes® to collect forehead SSL for profile analysis by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

RESULTS

SSL amount significantly decreased since week 2 in AV (p-value = 0.0124) and week 6 in non-AV (p-value = 0.0098), respectively. Twenty-two important SSLs were annotated from GC-MS analysis, comprising 19 free fatty acids, cholesterol, squalene, and glycerol. There was a significant reduction in 5 and 13 lipid components in AV and non-AV groups, respectively.

CONCLUSION

LDCS, either alone or with topical acne treatment, demonstrated substantial sebusuppressive and lipid-modifying effects among seborrhea participants.

Chitosan: A Promising Multifunctional Cosmetic Ingredient for Skin and Hair Care

The cosmetic industry has an undeniable need to design and develop new ecosustainable products to respond to the demands of consumers and international regulations. This requires substituting some traditional ingredients derived from petrochemical sources with new ones with more ecofriendly profiles. However, this transition towards the use of green ingredients in the cosmetic industry cannot compromise the effectiveness of the obtained products. Emerging ingredients in this new direction of the cosmetic industry are chitosan and its derivatives, which combine many interesting physicochemical and biological properties for the fabrication of cosmetic products. Thus, the use of chitosan opens a promising future path to the design of cosmetic formulations. In particular, chitosan’s ability for interacting electrostatically with negatively charged substrates (e.g., skin or damaged hair), resulting in the formation of polymeric films which contribute to the conditioning and moisturizing of cosmetic substrates, makes this polymer an excellent candidate for the design of skin and hair care formulations. This review tries to provide an updated perspective on the potential interest of chitosan and its derivatives as ingredients of cosmetics for skin and hair care.