Effect of a topical antioxidant serum containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid after Q‐switched 1064‐nm Nd:YAG laser for treatment of environment‐induced skin pigmentation

Efficacy and Safety of Nicotinamide 10%, Associated with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 5% and Hyaluronic Acid 5%, Compared to Hydroquinone 4% in Women with Facial Melasma: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Controlled Clinical Trial

Background

Nicotinamide has demonstrated efficacy in the treatment of melasma. Topical antioxidants and humectants may enhance its performance. Currently, there is no controlled trial on the combination of 10% nicotinamide, 5% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and 5% hyaluronic acid, a dermo-cosmetic compound, in comparison to 4% hydroquinone for the treatment of melasma. This study aimed to explore the tolerability and efficacy of the association of the combined product versus hydroquinone.

Methods

A randomized, double-blind trial involving women with facial melasma was conducted. Participants were instructed to apply the combined product (NIC group) twice daily or 4% hydroquinone for 60 days (HQ group) at night and placebo in the morning. Evaluations were performed at inclusion, after 14 and 60 days of treatment, measuring the modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), Melasma Quality of Life Scale (MELASQoL), and colorimetric luminosity. The Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) was assessed by a blinded evaluator.

Results

Both interventions led to a progressive improvement in mMASI, MELASQoL, and GAIS, without a difference between them on D14 and D60 (p>0.2). For NIC, the mean reduction (95% CI) in mMASI was 16% (8-24%) on D14 and 32% (23-41%) on D60, while for HQ, it was 10% (7-24%) on D14 and 43% (34-52%) on D60. Reduction in colorimetric luminosity was greater in the HQ group at D60 (p=0.01). No serious side effects were identified. Of the initially included 50 patients, one was lost to follow-up in the HQ group on D60, and one withdrew consent from the NIC group, both unrelated to treatment.

Conclusion

The association of 10% nicotinamide, 5% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and 5% hyaluronic acid was safe and well-tolerated, although its overall clinical efficacy was numerically inferior to 4% hydroquinone. This regimen can be considered for patients with poor tolerability to hydroquinone.

Clinical Trial Registration

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Syringaresinol Attenuates α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone-Induced Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Melanogenesis

Ginseng has been utilized for centuries in both the medicinal and cosmetic realms. Recent studies have actively investigated the biological activity of ginseng berry and its constituents. (+)-Syringaresinol [(+)-SYR], an active component of ginseng berry, has been demonstrated to have beneficial effects on the skin, but its potential impact on skin pigmentation has not been fully explored. Here, the antioxidant and anti-pigmentary activity of (+)-SYR were evaluated in B16F10 murine melanoma cells and in an artificial human pigmented skin model, Melanoderm™. A real-time PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, and histochemistry staining were conducted to confirm the effects of (+)-SYR on pigmentation. (+)-SYR reduced melanogenesis and dendrite elongation in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-primed B16F10 cells with low cytotoxicity. (+)-SYR suppressed the expression of melanogenic genes, namely tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). Notably, (+)-SYR attenuated α-MSH-induced cytosolic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, which was attributable at least in part to the suppression of NADPH oxidase-4 (NOX 4) expression. Finally, the brightening activities of (+)-SYR were verified using Melanoderm™, underscoring the potential of ginseng berry and (+)-SYR as functional ingredients in skin-brightening cosmetics.

Expert consensus on perioperative integrated skincare for noninvasive energy-based device aesthetic procedures in clinical practice in China

BACKGROUND

Noninvasive energy-based device (NI-EBD) aesthetic procedures has recently gained widespread usage for treating various skin conditions, enhancing skin texture and performing rejuvenation-related procedures. However, practically all NI-EBD procedures result in variable degrees of damage to the skin barrier, inducing pathological and physiological processes such as oxidative stress and inflammation, and only a small percentage of individuals possess the innate ability to restore it.

OBJECTIVE

To introduce the concept of integrated skincare and establish standardized operational procedures for perioperative integrated skincare, and furnish a theoretical basis for clinical diagnosis and treatment performed by professional medical aestheticians.

METHODS

The author leveraged domestic and international guidelines, clinical practice expertise and evidence-based research, adapting them to suit the specific circumstances in China.

RESULTS

The consensus were provided four parts, including concept and essence of integrated skincare, integrated skincare significance during the perioperative phase of NI-EBD procedures, active ingredients and functions of effective skincare products, standardized perioperative skincare procedure for NI-EBD procedures and precautions. For the standardized perioperative skincare procedure, four recommendations were listed according to different stages during NI-EBD procedures.

CONCLUSION

These recommendations create the 'Expert Consensus on Perioperative Integrated Skincare for Noninvasive Energy-Based Device Aesthetic Procedures in Clinical Practice in China'.

Application of integrated skincare in medical aesthetics: A literature review

Integrated skincare combines clinically proven skincare products with professional medical aesthetics to provide a comprehensive solution for beauty pursuers. Studies have demonstrated that a combination of medical aesthetic procedures and maintenance therapies is more effective than either treatment alone. This review outlines the current applications of integrated skincare, including different regimens of energy-based aesthetic devices and active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or chemical peels. Additionally, the benefits and limitations of integrated skincare are discussed. Lastly, this review highlights the potential for improved satisfaction and long-term maintenance of the desired outcomes through appropriate integrated skincare procedures.

Efficacy and safety of a topical skincare regimen containing CE Ferulic serum and resveratrol BE serum following ablative fractional CO2 laser treatment: A prospective, randomized, split-face, controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Ablative fractional CO2 laser is widely used to address various skin problems, but the treatment often leads to adverse effects such as erythema, dyspigmentation, and extended recovery periods, negatively impacting patients' quality of life.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a topical skincare regimen containing both CE Ferulic serum and Resveratrol BE night serum following fractional CO2 laser treatment in Chinese population.

METHODS

In this randomized, investigator-blinded, split-face, controlled trial, individuals aged 18-65 undergoing ablative CO2 laser treatment were randomly assigned to apply CE Ferulic plus resveratrol BE serum (CEF-RBE) to either side of face and normal saline (NS) to the other, for 14 consecutive days. The primary endpoint was erythema index (EI) on day 14, with key secondary endpoints including scabbing detachment time, percentage changes in EI and melanin index (MI), skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin sebum content, oedema, and overall subject satisfaction.

RESULTS

The study included 51 patients, of whom 29 (56.9%) were female, with a mean (SD) age of 29.8 (5.39) years. On day 14, the CEF-RBE side exhibited significantly lower EI than the NS side (308.9 vs. 325.3, p = 0.034). The median (IQR) time (days) for complete scabbing detachment at the CEF-RBE side was 6.0 (5.0-8.0) compared to 6.5 (5.0-9.0) at NS side (p = 0.018). Additionally, the CEF-RBE side showed a 7.4% decrease in MI from baseline to day 14, while the NS side experienced a 0.2% increase (Δ = -7.6%, p = 0.044). Throughout the 14-day follow-up, the CEF-RBE side consistently displayed higher skin hydration than the NS side.

CONCLUSIONS

The study highlighted the benefits of incorporating CEF-RBE following laser treatment in reducing erythema and hyperpigmentation, promoting wound healing, and maintaining skin hydration, although limitations such as contamination and adherence issues should be considered.

Melasma: A Step-by-Step Approach Towards a Multimodal Combination Therapy

Melasma is a common challenge in the field of pigmentary skin disorders, exerting a significant emotional and psychosocial burden on patients. The persistent and recurring nature of melasma complicates its management in routine clinical practice. This comprehensive review outlines a stepwise, practical approach encompassing diagnostic, preventive and therapeutic strategies for the management of melasma. A thorough exploration of aggravating and exacerbating factors, including sun exposure, hormonal imbalances, photosensitizing medication and cosmetics, is essential for a holistic assessment of the disease. With an emphasis on consistent and effective photoprotection, initial topical treatment modalities target the melanin production and/or the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes. Topical tyrosine inhibitors emerge as the first choice for reducing and preventing hyperpigmentation, with compounds such as thiamidol or tranexamic acid (TXA) being preferred for their safety profile over hydroquinone (HQ), kojic acid and arbutin. Combination with chemical peels can further enhance the therapeutic efficacy, even in cases with resistant melasma. In more severe cases, laser- and light-based interventions may be considered, but with the caveat of the likelihood of recurrence within 3-6 months. Assisted TXA delivery, via either fractional non-ablative laser or microneedling techniques, can further improve clinical outcomes. In conclusion, an optimal melasma management strategy is a multimodal approach, which includes effective photoprotection and a mix of different topical treatments targeting melanin synthesis, the anti-inflammatory environment, senescence and vascularity. Complementary procedures, such as chemical peels, and laser, light-based or microneedling procedures, with or without TXA, can further expedite melanin clearance in more severely affected instances. Individual discussions with patients regarding treatment expectations, recurrence likelihood and potential side effects are paramount to a comprehensive and successful therapeutic journey.

Ferulic acid in synergy with retinol alleviates oxidative injury of HaCaT cells during UVB-induced photoaging

Application of retinol (Vitamin A, VA) in skincare is limited for instability, poor water solubility, and skin intolerance that combats skin aging. We employed computer-aided virtual screening and cell experiments with transcriptomics, thereby unveiling the comprehensive gene expression and regulation pathway of photoaging HaCaT cell treated with ferulic acid (FA) in synergizing with VA. Through network pharmacology analysis, the combined use of VA and FA exhibited highly correlated cross-targets with skin aging acting on EGFR, PTPN1, ESR2, GSK3B, BACE1, PYGL, PTGS2 and APP. The indicators of oxidative stress, such as SOD, GSH, MDA, CAT and ROS in HaCaT cells after co-administration, were significantly improved from those in photoaging group (p<0.0001). 155 differential expressed genes (DEGs) were specific between groups, while reducing the expression of PTGS2 was identified as an important regulatory factor in photoaging HaCaT cells by VA and FA. Those DEGs of co-administration group focused on oxidative-reduction enzyme activity, skin growth, keratinization, and steroid biosynthesis. Apparently, the co-administration of VA and FA effectively mitigated the process of UVB-induced photoaging by reducing oxidative stress injury, inflammation responses, and regulating cell growth. This synergistic approach significantly slowed down the photoaging progression and improved the applied performance of VA in HaCaT cells.

Evaluation of systemic oxidative stress in patients with melasma

BACKGROUND

The significance of oxidative stress has been assessed and proven in the etiopathogenesis of many cutaneous disorders, but there are few studies that evaluated the role of only some factors involved in oxidative stress in patients with melasma.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to examine the role of oxidative stress in melasma and assess the relationship between systemic oxidative stress and the severity and extension of this disease.

METHODS

In this study, the serum levels of superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GPX), catalase (CAT), malondialdehyde (MDA), protein carbonyl (PC), selenium (Se), vitamin E (vit E), and vitamin C (vit C) of fifty patients with melasma were compared with those of fifty controls.

RESULTS

The serum level of MDA was significantly higher in the melasma group (3.08 vs. 2.35 U/mL; p < 0.05), and it was positively correlated with the severity (r = 0.4; p < 0.001) and extension (r = 0.3; p < 0.05) of the disease. Furthermore, the serum level of vit C was significantly lower in melasma patients (2.16 vs. 2.57 μg/mL; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSION

Systemic oxidative stress has a key role in the etiopathogenesis of melasma. Serum concentrations of MDA and vitamin C are indicators of this impairment.

Q-switched 1064 nm Nd: YAG laser restores skin photoageing by activating autophagy by TGFβ1 and ITGB1

Excessive ultraviolet B ray (UVB) exposure to sunlight results in skin photoageing. Our previous research showed that a Q-switched 1064 nm Nd: YAG laser can alleviate skin barrier damage through miR-24-3p. However, the role of autophagy in the laser treatment of skin photoageing is still unclear. This study aims to investigate whether autophagy is involved in the mechanism of Q-switched 1064 nm Nd: YAG in the treatment of skin ageing. In vitro, primary human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells were irradiated with different doses of UVB to establish a cell model of skin photoageing. In vivo, SKH-1 hairless mice were irradiated with UVB to establish a skin photoageing mouse model and irradiated with laser. The oxidative stress and autophagy levels were detected by western blot, immunofluorescence and flow cytometer. String was used to predict the interaction protein of TGF-β1, and CO-IP and GST-pull down were used to detect the binding relationship between TGFβ1 and ITGB1. In vitro, UVB irradiation reduced HDF cell viability, arrested cell cycle, induced cell senescence and oxidative stress compared with the control group. Laser treatment reversed cell viability, senescence and oxidative stress induced by UVB irradiation and activated autophagy. Autophagy agonists or inhibitors can enhance or attenuate the changes induced by laser treatment, respectively. In vivo, UVB irradiation caused hyperkeratosis, dermis destruction, collagen fibres reduction, increased cellular senescence and activation of oxidative stress in hairless mice. Laser treatment thinned the stratum corneum of skin tissue, increased collagen synthesis and autophagy in the dermis, and decreased the level of oxidative stress. Autophagy agonist rapamycin and autophagy inhibitor 3-methyladenine (3-MA) can enhance or attenuate the effects of laser treatment on the skin, respectively. Also, we identified a direct interaction between TGFB1 and ITGB1 and participated in laser irradiation-activated autophagy, thereby inhibiting UVB-mediated oxidative stress further reducing skin ageing. Q-switched 1064 nm Nd: YAG laser treatment inhibited UVB-induced oxidative stress and restored skin photoageing by activating autophagy, and TGFβ1 and ITGB1 directly incorporated and participated in this process.

Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Vitamin C is a micronutrient present in high concentrations in normal skin and a highly prescribed cosmeceutical, well known for protecting against ultraviolet-induced pigmentation and regulating collagen production. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the efficacy of topical vitamin C in photoaging and melasma, with this systematic review being the first to assess the existing evidence.

AIM

This systematic review aims to assess whether topical vitamin C could be effective in reversing photoaging signs and treating melasma.

METHODS

Prospective, randomized controlled trials assessing protocols with topically applied vitamin C in patients with melasma or photodamage were searched in Medline, CENTRAL, and Scopus databases until the 12th of May 2022. Risk of bias was conducted in accordance with Cochrane Collaboration's tool for assessing the risk of bias in randomized trials, using RevMan 5.0.

RESULTS

Seven publications were included, with 139 volunteers in total. Studies that evaluated the topography of skin indicated that the treated skin appeared smoother and less wrinkled, which was supported by biopsies data. On objective assessments of pigmentation, there was a significant lightening of the skin treated. Hydration improved equally in the vitamin C and placebo-treated sites.

CONCLUSIONS

This study revealed that vitamin C is effective in treating uneven, wrinkled skin and has depigmenting properties, but long-term use may be needed to achieve noticeable changes. Q-switched Nd:YAG laser-associated protocols appear beneficial in enhancing vitamin C effects. Topical vitamin C may be a suitable alternative for melasma and photoaging, but more studies are needed to confirm these results and assess the ideal vitamin C concentration.

Added-Value Compounds in Cork By-Products: Methods for Extraction, Identification, and Quantification of Compounds with Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Interest

The growing threat of climatic crisis and fossil fuel extinction has caused a boom in sustainability trends. Consumer demand for so-called eco-friendly products has been steadily increasing, built upon the foundation of environmental protection and safeguarding for future generations. A natural product that has been used for centuries is cork, resulting from the outer bark of Quercus suber L. Currently, its major application is the production of cork stoppers for the wine industry, a process that, although considered sustainable, generates by-products in the form of cork powder, cork granulates, or waste such as black condensate, among others. These residues possess constituents of interest for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, as they exhibit relevant bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant. This interesting potential brings forth the need to develop methods for their extraction, isolation, identification, and quantification. The aim of this work is to describe the potential of cork by-products for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry and to assemble the available extraction, isolation, and analytical methods applied to cork by-products, as well the biological assays. To our knowledge, this compilation has never been done, and it opens new avenues for the development of new applications for cork by-products.

Open-Label Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of a Topical Anhydrous Formulation with 15% Pure Ascorbic Acid and Ginger as a Potent Antioxidant

Vitamin C is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants capable of reducing or preventing skin photoaging. Achieving a stable formulation with the optimal dose of ascorbic acid to ensure a biologically significant antioxidant effect is a challenge when developing cosmetic formulations. The objective of this study was to develop a stable formula in a non-aqueous media with 15% pure vitamin C supplemented with ginger and to study its efficacy, skin tolerance, and cosmetic assessment in 33 women. Vitamin C stability over time was determined via a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique versus an aqueous option. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) determination was quantified to provide antioxidant effect. A 56-day in vivo study was performed to evaluate skin luminosity and hyperpigmentation reduction. Skin acceptability was verified by a dermatologist. The HPLC studies demonstrated a high stability of the anhydrous formula compared to an aqueous option. The in vitro studies showed a reduction in ROS of 93% (p-value < 0.0001). In vivo, luminosity increased by 17% (p-value < 0.0001) and skin tone became 10% more uniform (p-value < 0.007). Moreover, very good skin tolerance was determined as the dermatologist did not determine any clinical signs, and the subjects did not report any feelings of discomfort. We were able to develop an anhydrous formula of pure vitamin C that combines very good stability, consumer acceptance, and skin tolerance with a high level of efficacy.

Human Umbilical Cord-Derived Mesenchymal Stem Cells Ameliorate Skin Aging of Nude Mice Through Autophagy-Mediated Anti-Senescent Mechanism

Skin aging is a currently irreversible process, affected by increased oxidative stress, activated cellular senescence, and lacked regeneration of the dermal layer. Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), such as human umbilical cord-derived MSCs (hucMSCs), have pro-regeneration and anti-aging potencies. To explore whether hucMSCs can be used to treat skin aging, this study employed skin-aging model of nude mice to conduct in vivo assays, including biochemical analysis of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA), gross observation, histopathological observation, and immunohistochemical analysis. To clarify how hucMSCs work on skin aging, this study employed skin-aging model of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) to conduct in vitro assays by applying conditional medium of hucMSCs (CMM), including wound healing assay, senescence staining, flow cytometric oxidative detection, real time PCR, and western blot analysis. The in vivo data demonstrated that hucMSCs dose-dependently removed wrinkles, smoothed skin texture, and increased dermal thickness and collagen production of aged skin by reversing SOD and MDA levels and up-regulating Col-1 and VEGF expressions, indicating anti-oxidative and pro-regenerative effects against skin aging. The in vitro data revealed that hucMSCs significantly reversed the senescence of HDFs by promoting cell migration, inhibiting ROS production, and restoring the overexpressions of oxidative and senescent markers through paracrine mode of action, and the paracrine mechanism was mediated by the inhibition of autophagy. This study provided novel knowledge regarding the anti-aging efficacy and paracrine mechanism of hucMSCs on skin, making hucMSCs-based therapy a promising regime for skin aging treatment.

Diesel Particulate Extract Accelerates Premature Skin Aging in Human Fibroblasts via Ceramide-1-Phosphate-Mediated Signaling Pathway

Both intrinsic (i.e., an individual’s body clock) and extrinsic factors (i.e., air pollutants and ultraviolet irradiation) accelerate premature aging. Epidemiological studies have shown a correlation between pollutant levels and aging skin symptoms. Diesel particle matter in particular leads to some diseases, including in the skin. Our recent study demonstrates that diesel particulate extract (DPE) increases apoptosis via increases in an anti-mitogenic/pro-apoptotic lipid mediator, ceramide in epidermal keratinocytes. Here, we investigated whether and how DPE accelerates premature skin aging using cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). We first demonstrated that DPE increases cell senescence marker β-galactosidase activity in HDF. We then found increases in mRNA and protein levels, along with activity of matrix metalloprotease (MMP)-1 and MMP-3, which are associated with skin aging following DPE exposure. We confirmed increases in collagen degradation in HDF treated with DPE. Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH) oxidase (NOX) is activated by DPE and results in increased ceramide production by sphingomyelinase activation in HDF. We identified that ceramide-1-phosphate (C1P) (produced from ceramide by ceramide kinase activation) activates MMP-1 and MMP-3 through activation of arachidonate cascade, followed by STAT 1- and STAT 3-dependent transcriptional activation.

Implications of Oxidative Stress in the Pathogenesis and Treatment of Hyperpigmentation Disorders

Oxidative stress represents an imbalance between the generation of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species and the ability of antioxidant systems to decompose those products. Oxidative stress is implicated in the pathogenesis of hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, melanoma, and other skin diseases. Regulatory networks involving oxidative stress and related pathways are widely represented in hypopigmentation diseases, particularly vitiligo. However, there is no complete review into the role of oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of hyperpigmentation disorders, especially regarding associations involving oxidative stress and cellular signaling pathways. Here, we review oxidative and antioxidant systems, oxidative stress-induced signal transduction mechanisms, and effects of antioxidant drugs used in preclinical and clinical settings in hyperpigmentation disorders.

A split-face study evaluating the efficacy of a topical antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol after 1064-nm picosecond Nd:YAG laser treatment for environment-induced skin pigmentation

Background This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a topical antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol after 1064-nm picosecond neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) laser treatment for environment-induced skin pigmentation.Methods A split-face study was conducted between December 2020 and March 2021 in 26 patients (25 women and one man) who were treated with a 1064-nm picosecond Nd:YAG laser. On the right side of the face, an antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol was applied after picosecond laser treatment, and on the left side, only picosecond laser treatment was performed. We compared the right and left sides of the face at 4 weeks after laser treatment using an automatic skin analysis device to investigate skin pigmentation. The melasma severity scores of the two sides were evaluated before and 4 weeks after picosecond laser treatment.Results The skin pigmentation score showed a significant difference between pretreatment and 4 weeks after picosecond laser treatment on both sides of the face (P<0.001), and there was a significant difference in skin pigmentation score improvement between the right and left sides (P<0.001). The melasma severity score showed a significant difference on the right side between pretreatment and 4 weeks after laser treatment (P<0.001), but there was no significant change on the left side (P>0.05).Conclusions Our results show that, for the treatment of environment-induced skin pigmentation, the application of a tocotrienol-containing antioxidant cream after 1064-nm picosecond laser treatment can provide good results without any complications.

Oxidative stress in the skin: Impact and related protection

Skin, our first interface to the external environment, is subjected to oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors such as solar ultraviolet, infrared and visible light, environmental pollution, including ozone and particulate matters, and psychological stress. Excessive reactive species, including reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species, exacerbate skin pigmentation and aging, which further lead to skin tone unevenness, pigmentary disorder, skin roughness and wrinkles. Besides these, skin microbiota are also a very important factor ensuring the proper functions of skin. While environmental factors such as UV and pollutants impact skin microbiota compositions, skin dysbiosis results in various skin conditions. In this review, we summarize the generation of oxidative stress from exogenous and endogenous sources. We further introduce current knowledge on the possible roles of oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and aging, specifically with emphasis on oxidative stress and skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, we summarize the science and rationale of using three well-known antioxidants, namely vitamin C, resveratrol and ferulic acid, in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Finally, we discuss the strategy for preventing oxidative stress-induced skin pigmentation and aging.

A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix-repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto-perception

Background

Allegations on the benefits of incorporating vitamin C, vitamin E, and combinations thereof in topical skincare formulations are mostly based on in vitro and ex vivo experiments and/or limited protocols of specific stress conditions (pollution, UV exposure, laser irradiation,…).

Objective

To evaluate the instrumentally measurable effects and quantitative consumer perceptions of a protective and reparative serum on a panel of volunteers under normal nonstressed conditions of use, employing FOITS technology and innovative self‐assessment methods.

Method

In an open‐label study women of ≥40 years with visible signs of photoaging applied a serum comprising l‐ascorbic acid USP (15% w/v), tocopheryl acetate USP, and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38 to the face once daily for 56 days. Skin roughness and isotropy changes were evaluated on days 0, 28, and 56, visual instrumental evaluation of skin‐tone parameters was assessed on days 0 and 56. Subjects completed self‐assessment questionnaires every third day of the trial period for radiance, homogeneity, and wrinkle appearance.

Results

Skin‐roughness parameters decreased significantly by 8%‐9% (P < .05) and subjects experienced a significant increase in skin isotropy (P < .05). Photographic analysis revealed significant improvements in skin tone, with a 9% decrease in redness and 8% increase in homogeneity (P < .0001 for both), in excellent agreement with subjects' perception of significant improvements of radiance, complexion, and wrinkles.

Conclusion

The study confirms statistically significant correlation between objectively measured and quantitative subjectively perceived benefits of the bespoke serum containing antioxidants and a matrix‐restoring peptide.

The effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation - A systematic review

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is used as a treatment modality in depigmentation of hyperpigmented spots on the skin and gingiva. This systematic review discusses the studies conducted to assess the effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation. The primary objective was to evaluate the effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation. The secondary objective was to analyze the effect of Vitamin C administration on melanin pigmentation. An electronic database search was conducted from the following databases: PubMed, EBSCOhost, ScienceOpen, EMBASE and Google Scholar. Randomized controlled trials, experimental studies, case-control studies and cohort studies published in peer-reviewed journals in English language were included. Case reports, case series, animal model studies, in vitro studies, studies where Vitamin C was used along with other agents and unpublished research were excluded. Out of 22,580 studies, only 7 studies satisfied the selection criteria. Data extraction sheet was prepared, and the studies were analyzed. Out of the 7 studies analyzed, 1 was a randomized controlled trial and 6 were experimental studies. Vitamin C has been used widely as a depigmenting agent in dermatology. However, there are limited studies conducted on the use of Vitamin C for gingival depigmentation.

The top 10 cosmeceuticals for facial hyperpigmentation

Disorders of facial hyperpigmentation including melasma, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and solar lentigines are common cutaneous conditions which can have a huge impact on patients' quality of life and often prove difficult to treat. The nascent market of cosmeceutical options provides a potentially safer and efficacious alternative for treating these challenging conditions. These can be used alone or in combination with other established treatments. Many cosmeceutical products are thought to work through inhibition of tyrosinase, a key enzyme of melanogenesis. We discuss the mode of action and provide an up-to-date review of the underlying evidence base for the top 10 cosmeceutical products for hyperpigmentation and melasma. Possible safer and more efficacious cosmeceutical therapies we discuss include thiamidol, kojic acid, vitamin C, arbutin, retinol, nicotinamide, ferulic acid, resorcinol, licorice root extract, and soy.