In vitro and in vivo evaluation of a moisture treatment cream containing three critical elements of natural skin moisturization

Anti-Photoaging Effects of Upcycled Citrus junos Seed Anionic Peptides on Ultraviolet-Radiation-Induced Skin Aging in a Reconstructed Skin Model

Side streams and byproducts of food are established sources of natural ingredients in cosmetics. In the present study, we obtained upcycled low-molecular-weight anionic peptides (LMAPs) using byproducts of the post-yuzu-juicing process by employing an enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. For the first time, we isolated anionic peptides less than 500 Da in molecular weight from Citrus junos TANAKA seeds via hydrolysis using this enzyme. The protective effect of LMAPs against UVR-induced photoaging was evaluated using a reconstructed skin tissue (RST) model and keratinocytes. The LMAPs protected the keratinocytes by scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species and by reducing the levels of paracrine cytokines (IL-6 and TNF-α) in UVR (UVA 2 J/cm2 and UVB 15 mJ/cm2)-irradiated keratinocytes. Additionally, the increase in melanin synthesis and TRP-2 expression in RST caused by UVR was significantly inhibited by LMAP treatment. This treatment strongly induced the expression of filaggrin and laminin-5 in UVR-irradiated RST. It also increased type I collagen expression in the dermal region and in fibroblasts in vitro. These results suggest that a hydrolytic system using the enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. can be used for the commercial production of LMAPs from food byproducts and that these LMAPs can be effective ingredients for improving photoaging-induced skin diseases.

Up-Regulated Expression of ICAM1, MT1A, PTGS2, LCE3D, PPARD, and GM-CSF2 Following Solar Skincare Protection and Repair Strategies in a 3-Dimensional Reconstructed Human Skin Model

Background

Clinical, optical and histological research confirms that solar skin damage continues to pose a threat to human skin health globally despite widespread sunscreen usage and sun awareness campaigns. Despite this, very few studies examine the critical changes in gene expression and DNA repair activity following recommended topical solar protection and repair strategies to ameliorate the harmful effects of ultraviolet, visible light and near-infrared radiation.

Purpose

To investigate alterations in gene expression following topical solar protection and solar repair strategies.

Methods

Using epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts derived from a 3-dimensional reconstructed human skin model, gene expression was assessed via the Genemarkers Standard Skin Panel using 112 genes deploying two analytical techniques: DNA microarray and quantitative real-time PCR exploration. Tissues were inoculated with products then collected after 24 hours following application of solar protection formulations and 16 hours following solar repair formulations (The Essential Six, RATIONALE, Victoria, Australia).

Results

A DNA microarray revealed 67 genes that were significantly up-regulated or down-regulated following the treatment. The quantitative real-time PCR revealed that, in comparison to the control, the genes encoding Intercellular Adhesion Molecule 1 (ICAM1), Metallothionein 1A (MT1A), Prostaglandin-Endoperoxide Synthase 1 (PTGS2), Late Cornified Envelope 3D (LCE3D), Peroxisome Proliferator Activated Receptor (PPARD), and Granulocyte/Macrophage Colony Stimulating Factor 2 (GM-CSF2) have been up-regulated following usage of the solar protection regime, 1.87, 861.16, 4.34, 1.91, 1.06, and 3.6, respectively. ICAM1, MT1A, PTGS2, LCE3D, PPARD, and GM-CSF2 were up-regulated following use of the solar repair regime, 3.78, 2.98, 14.89, 5.09, 2.42, and 13.51, respectively.

Conclusion

This study demonstrates that a specific solar protection and repair regime upregulated genes involved in photoprotection and repair mechanisms in a 3-dimensional (3D) reconstructed human-like skin model.

Effect of facial application of essence containing royal jelly extract on stratum corneum moisture content: A placebo-controlled, double-blind, parallel-group study

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the moisturizing function and other effects of royal jelly extract on the skin. The effects of applying an essence containing royal jelly extract on the skin of healthy Japanese males and females were examined.

METHODS

Thirty-five healthy Japanese men and women who were aware of their skin dryness applied an essence containing royal jelly extract or placebo for 4 weeks using the split-face method in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, parallel comparative study. The stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water evaporation, pigmentation, pores, and redness were evaluated.

RESULTS

The stratum corneum water content significantly increased by the application of essence containing royal jelly extract to the cheeks for 4 weeks compared with placebo.

CONCLUSION

The application of an essence containing royal jelly extract significantly improved the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the cheeks, confirming the improvement in the moisturizing function of the royal jelly extract. Furthermore, no adverse events were observed at the application site during the application period, and the test products and royal jelly extract contained in the test product were considered highly safe.

In Vitro and Ex Vivo Mechanistic Understanding and Clinical Evidence of a Novel Anti-Wrinkle Technology in Single-Arm, Monocentric, Open-Label Observational Studies

Skin aging is a biological process leading to visible skin alterations. The mechanism of action, clinical efficacy and tolerance of a novel anti-wrinkle technology were evaluated in two skin care products formulated for different skin types. Two single-arm monocentric, open-label observational clinical studies, which were 56 days long, evaluated a cream-gel (n = 30) and a cream (n = 33) on the face and neck. Morphometric analyses of five types of wrinkles were performed at 0, 7, 28 and 56 days. Structural changes in extracellular matrix (ECM) including collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (HA) were visualized and quantified by histochemical imaging after daily treatment of skin explants for 6 days. Protein and gene expression related to barrier and hydration were analyzed using ELISA and qRT-PCR, respectively, in a reconstituted human skin model treated daily for 48 h. A decrease in wrinkle dimensions was found in the majority of parameters after 28 days of treatment. Collagen, elastin, HA, procollagen type I, hyaluronan synthases, HAS2 and HAS3 were all stimulated. Based on significant and consistent changes in our investigations, we conclude that the underlying mechanism of action of the novel anti-wrinkle technology could be the remodeling of dermal ECM, and both the test formulations were efficacious and well tolerated.

Effects of the epidermal growth factor receptor inhibitor, gefitinib, on lipid and hyaluronic acid synthesis in cultured HaCaT keratinocytes

Epidermal growth factor receptor inhibitors (EGFRIs) are widely used for treating various cancers, including lung, colon, head and neck cancers. However, EGFRIs have unique dermatological side effects, including acneiform eruption, dry skin, paronychias, and pruritus. In this study, we investigated the molecular changes induced by an EGFRI, gefitinib, in the expression of lipogenic enzymes and hyaluronic acid (HA) regulatory proteins in HaCaT keratinocytes, and whether EGF restored these changes. HaCaT cells were treated with gefitinib, with or without EGF, and treated with tumor necrosis factor α (TNFα) for inducing an inflammatory response. The mRNA and protein expression was analyzed by real-time RT-PCR, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), and western blotting. Gefitinib enhanced the TNFα-induced expression of C-C motif chemokine ligand 2 (CCL2), CCL5, and C-X-C motif chemokine ligand 10 (CXCL10), and the expression of TNFα in HaCaT cells, while EGF restored these changes. At a similar concentration range, gefitinib reduced the mRNA and/or protein expression of various lipogenic enzymes for fatty acid, cholesterol, and ceramide synthesis, except acidic sphingomyelinase. Gefitinib suppressed the mRNA and protein expression of HA synthase 2 (HAS2), HAS3, cluster of differentiation 44 (CD44), hyaluronidase 1 (HYAL1), and HYAL2, except the mRNA expression of HYAL1. EGF restored the changes induced by gefitinib, except for the mRNA expression of fatty acid synthase (FASN) and elongation of very long chain fatty acids protein (ELOVL) 6. In conclusion, EGFRIs suppress lipogenesis and HA metabolism, which may contribute to adverse dermatological effects, including barrier function impairment in cancer patients treated with EGFRIs.

Molecular characterization of xerosis cutis: A systematic review

Background

Xerosis cutis or dry skin is a highly prevalent dermatological disorder especially in the elderly and in patients with underlying health conditions. In the past decades, numerous molecular markers have been investigated for their association with the occurrence or severity of skin dryness. The aim of this review was to summarize the molecular markers used in xerosis cutis research and to describe possible associations with different dry skin etiologies.

Methods

We conducted a systematic review of molecular markers of xerosis cutis caused by internal or systemic changes. References published between 1990 and September 2020 were searched using ‘MEDLINE’, ‘EMBASE’ and ‘Biological abstracts’ databases. Study results were summarized and analyzed descriptively. The review protocol was registered in PROSPERO database (CRD42020214173).

Results

A total of 21 study reports describing 72 molecules were identified including lipids, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), proteins including cytokines and metabolites or metabolic products. Most frequently reported markers were ceramides, total free fatty acids, triglycerides and selected components of NMFs. Thirty-one markers were reported only once. Although, associations of these molecular markers with skin dryness were described, reports of unclear and/or no association were also frequent for nearly every marker.

Conclusion

An unexpectedly high number of various molecules to quantify xerosis cutis was found. There is substantial heterogeneity regarding molecular marker selection, tissue sampling and laboratory analyses. Empirical evidence is also heterogeneous regarding possible associations with dry skin. Total free fatty acids, total ceramide, ceramide (NP), ceramide (NS), triglyceride, total free amino acids and serine seem to be relevant, but the association with dry skin is inconsistent. Although the quantification of molecular markers plays an important role in characterizing biological processes, pathogenic processes or pharmacologic responses, it is currently unclear which molecules work best in xerosis cutis.

Efficacy of Dendrobium candidum polysaccharide extract as a moisturizer

INTRODUCTION

This study investigated the role of natural polymers as moisturizers with low toxicity and biodegradability in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. We isolated a polysaccharide extract from Dendrobium candidum (D. candidum) and determined its efficacy in skin hydration when used as an active cosmetic ingredient.

METHODS

The molecular weight distribution of D. candidum polysaccharides was analyzed via gel permeation chromatography (GPC). We performed real-time reverse transcription PCR (RT-PCR) and western blotting assays to investigate the physiological mechanism of the polysaccharides extracted from D. candidum (PDC). Based on in vitro data, the efficacy of PDC in improving skin condition was tested on the face of 21 volunteers.

RESULTS

The expression of filaggrin (FLG), caspase-14, and bleomycin hydrolase, which are the major components contributing to skin hydration, was significantly increased in the PDC-treated group. Further, the PDC upregulated the mRNA expression of occludin and claudin-1, which play a key role in epidermal barrier function. In addition, a topical application of PDC markedly increased skin hydration and improved trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin elasticity after 2 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

It is the first study reporting the efficacy of PDC-mediated FLG mechanism associated with positive skin hydration. PDC can be used as an active ingredient in moisturizers. Long-term application of PDC-based moisturizers may result in significant improvement in elasticity and barrier function.

Glycosaminoglycans: Sweet as Sugar Targets for Topical Skin Anti-Aging

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are long, linear polysaccharides comprised of repeating disaccharide units with pleiotropic biological functions, with the non-sulfated GAG hyaluronic acid (HA), and sulfated GAGs dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and to a lesser extent heparin all being expressed in skin. Their ability to regulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, inflammatory processes and extracellular matrix composition and quality demonstrates their critical role in regulating skin physiology. Similarly, the water-binding properties of GAGs and structural qualities, particularly for HA, are crucial for maintaining proper skin form and hydration. The biological importance of GAGs, as well as extensive evidence that their properties and functions are altered in both chronological and extrinsic skin aging, makes them highly promising targets to improve cosmetic skin quality. Within the present review, we examine the cutaneous biological activity of GAGs alongside the protein complexes they form called proteoglycans and summarize the age-related changes of these molecules in skin. We also examine current topical interventional approaches to modulate GAGs for improved skin quality such as direct exogenous administration of GAGs, with a particular interest in strategies targeted at potentiating GAG levels in skin through either attenuating GAG degradation or increasing GAG production.

Antiphotoaging Potential of Extracts of Yin-Tonic Herbal Medicine in Skin Cell and Human Skin Equivalent

Yin-tonic herbal medicines have been shown to possess properties that make skin healthy by nourishing within various organs of the body. However, the antiphotoaging effect of these medicines on the skin has not been fully studied. Photoaging occurs with prolonged sun exposure and causes skin damage and aging, with depletion of the dermal extracellular matrix and chronic alterations in skin structure, such as wrinkles. In this study, we assessed the antiphotoaging effects of eight yin-tonic herbal medicines on human skin cells and skin equivalents. The levels of type I procollagen and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in ultraviolet B- (UVB-) irradiated CCD-986sk fibroblasts were measured, and then three medicines were chosen based on screening results. Using UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents, we evaluated the effect of three yin-tonic herbal medicines on histological changes of skin, epidermal and dermal thickness, and MMP-1 production. Furthermore, we observed collagen fiber content and protein expression of filaggrin in UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents. Yin-tonic herbal medicines increased type I procollagen levels and decreased the production of MMP-1 in UVB-irradiated CCD-986sk fibroblasts. The three selected yin-tonic herbal medicines recovered the collagen content and filaggrin expression via MMP-1 downregulation in UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents. Our results show that yin-tonic herbal medicines can prevent skin photoaging by reduction of MMP-1 levels and increasing the expression of moisturizing factors. Based on these results, we suggest that yin-tonic herbal medicines have the potential to be used as helpful agent for skin photoaging.

In vitro and in vivo evaluation of a moisture treatment cream containing three critical elements of natural skin moisturization

Objectives

To evaluate skin barrier and hydration effects of a new rebalancing moisture treatment (TRMT) and to assess efficacy and tolerability in subjects with photodamaged skin.

Methods

In an epidermal skin model, tissues (n = 5/group) were topically treated with 25 µL of TRMT, 25 µL of a market‐leading moisturizer (MLM), or untreated for 60 minutes. Hydration was measured at 0, 15, and 30 minutes. Tissues were harvested for gene expression analysis of markers associated with skin barrier and hydration: Claudin (CLD), Aquaporin (AQP), Hyaluronic Acid Syntheses (HAS), and Hyaluronidase (HYAL). A clinical study evaluated twice‐daily application of TRMT, assessing changes in fine lines/wrinkles, brightness, texture, erythema, and tolerability from baseline through week 8. Hydration was measured using electrical impedance.

Results

TRMT and MLM demonstrated significant increases in hydration vs untreated tissue at each timepoint (P < .005), with greater hydration effects observed for TRMT vs MLM. TRMT‐treated tissues demonstrated greater expression of CLD, AQP, and HA, and reduced expression of HYAL vs untreated and MLM‐treated tissues. Twice‐daily application of TRMT demonstrated significant improvements at 2 weeks in fine lines/wrinkles (P < .001), brightness (P < .0001), texture (P < .0004), and hydration (P < .004). At 8 weeks, statistically significant improvements were achieved in all categories.

Conclusion

In an epidermal skin model, TRMT demonstrated significant increases in hydration, greater hydration effects, and expression of key markers associated with skin barrier and hydration vs a MLM. Twice‐daily application of TRMT was well tolerated and resulted in early, significant improvements in hydration and visible improvements in skin brightness, texture, fine lines/wrinkles, and erythema at 8 weeks.